To scour the internet for dual ormerod hotends or buy something in stock...

Greetings fellow reprappers

I purchased an ormerod 2 from RS in December last year and after getting hooked. RepRapPro closes its doors.

Crepes...

I had been eyeing their dual quicknozzle hotend and the Duet expansion board in the hopes of saving up money to buy a set - after getting an aluminium x axis to run it on - That idea, now does seem rather... tepid.

I come today to ask you experienced lot this: Is the E3D V6 (and derivatives thereoff, hint hint) a viable alternative to the hotend shipped with the RepRapPro Ormerod 2? I have been considering the E3D Lite6 or if i win the lottery - the E3D Chimera. Would the faster extrusion speed of an E3D V6 be fully utilized on an ormerod 2 with only printed modifications. Or is the Lite6 "good enough"?

I could go on asking about specific details but it all boils down to my wallet. Is it worth waiting for the duet expansion board and E3D Chimera or is the quality of E3D hotends so superior that day to day printing will improve with little tinkering? Or is there a more likely possibility: The ormerod hotend is "good enough for now"?

I dont know what to suggest , i have bad experiance with E3D v6 while some have good results with it. I will probably remount and retry to get a better print quality.

Out of curiosity. What problems did you have?

I had at the start of each layer there would be a blob and circles werent all that good ,inner part of a tube would not stick to previous layer so i would get strings all over the inside like this( i have cut most with a knife but couldnt more):

The same part with original hot end was perfect.
Altho another user Treito has good results even in circles but he has a fake.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2016 08:49AM by Darathy.

Quote
Darathy
I had at the start of each layer there would be a blob and circles werent all that good ,inner part of a tube would not stick to previous layer so i would get strings all over the inside like this( i have cut most with a knife but couldnt more):
[attachment 69396 IMAG0377.jpg]
The same part with original hot end was perfect.
Altho another user Treito has good results even in circles but he has a fake.

I have no problem with my original E3D's either (Thought they aren't on a ormerod but that shouldn't make any difference)

Both myself and DC42 IIRC did have that blobbing effect and I got rid of it by increasing retraction amount and speed I also set slice to do inner before outer perimeters and set the start point to be the same whilst this reduced the effect it didn't go completely until I switched to S3D and that cured the issue completely.

Didn't have the same problems using Cura either but had other issues (Absolute vs Relative extrusion issues)

I am using a duet on a delta printer for what its worth!

Doug

I did get rid of the blobing too ,had retraction to 7mm(E3D say 2mm is max) but then you can get a jam altho i never got it to jam.

Quote
Darathy
[attachment 69396 IMAG0377.jpg].

Did you have any cooling fan over the build area during this?

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dougal1957
Both myself and DC42 IIRC did have that blobbing effect and I got rid of it by increasing retraction amount and speed I also set slice to do inner before outer perimeters and set the start point to be the same whilst this reduced the effect it didn't go completely until I switched to S3D and that cured the issue completely.

What did you set your rectraction speed to? I have set slic3r's retraction distance up to 7mm and the same speed however it still makes a blob where it lifts up to the next layer. At the price they are demanding i find it valid to call S3D an investment, do you find it worth it?

Quote
improprietary

Quote
Darathy
[attachment 69396 IMAG0377.jpg].

Did you have any cooling fan over the build area during this?

Quote
dougal1957
Both myself and DC42 IIRC did have that blobbing effect and I got rid of it by increasing retraction amount and speed I also set slice to do inner before outer perimeters and set the start point to be the same whilst this reduced the effect it didn't go completely until I switched to S3D and that cured the issue completely.

What did you set your rectraction speed to? I have set slic3r's retraction distance up to 7mm and the same speed however it still makes a blob where it lifts up to the next layer. At the price they are demanding i find it valid to call S3D an investment, do you find it worth it?

Oh yes S3D is definitely worth it (I was of the same opinion about the cost and justification until I bit the bullet and bought it) currently I am running 4 mm retraction at 100 mm/s and have the z Lift and coast features turned on but with DC42's newest work the Pressure advance option may well be better than the Coast features.

Bare in mind tho that this is on a delta with a beast of an extruder fitted still get very fine stringing but that I think is down to fine tuning the temps but it is so fine that it literally falls of with a wipe of the surface.

Doug

Quote
improprietary

Quote
Darathy
[attachment 69396 IMAG0377.jpg].

Did you have any cooling fan over the build area during this?

Quote
dougal1957
Both myself and DC42 IIRC did have that blobbing effect and I got rid of it by increasing retraction amount and speed I also set slice to do inner before outer perimeters and set the start point to be the same whilst this reduced the effect it didn't go completely until I switched to S3D and that cured the issue completely.

What did you set your rectraction speed to? I have set slic3r's retraction distance up to 7mm and the same speed however it still makes a blob where it lifts up to the next layer. At the price they are demanding i find it valid to call S3D an investment, do you find it worth it?

on the picture it was the duct for the E3D and i did use the duct i printed with Original hot end but it was cracked where it was attached so i was printing a replacement.

At the moment I use no additional fan and even bridging works really good. After finetuning the parameters in Simplify3D I get better results than using the original nozzle. I use a retract of 4.5mm with 40mm/s speed. Printing speeds higher than 45mm/s start causing artefacts caused by the general design of the printer. The costs of only 6€ for a fake nozzle should be worth testing it.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
At the moment I use no additional fan and even bridging works really good. After finetuning the parameters in Simplify3D I get better results than using the original nozzle. I use a retract of 4.5mm with 40mm/s speed. Printing speeds higher than 45mm/s start causing artefacts caused by the general design of the printer. The costs of only 6€ for a fake nozzle should be worth testing it.

... y'know that 45mm/s thing explains a bit. Spashiba.

What does it explain?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I've been running too fast for my setup

How fast?

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Its not bad actually. Perimeters: 60mm/s Infill: 80mm/s