Filament slips

But aware of the bearing. If it is not adjusted perfectly you could damage the aluminum arm.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
kpapr1
So if I move the z-axis say 0.1mm or 0.2mm away from the glass but at the side of it and then move the head towards the middle of the glass, you say that at some point the nozzle will touch the glass? I will try this now.

Yes it most likely will, at least in the x direction because of the force from the bowden cable, but it could happen that your x-arm has a slight bend in the opposite direction that would even things out - or in the same direction to ad to the problem

BTW, when you try this, turn the glass over or use un-kaptonized...(google: huh??)..glass to take out any variables

Quote

And if this happens is it solved using 5-point probing? If so I can remove a few kapton tape stripes and add a fifth piece of paper.

Yes - or if you have manually adjusted your corners to be the exact same height (as seen from the nozzles point of view) you can solve it by running the manually made Set Comp. file noted above

There are two ways to skin this cat, automatic probing or manual setup, I prefer the latter as the first always leaves me with a bit of doubt if a print go wrong

Erik

Why you didn't wrote glass without Kapton tape? Our teacher said if you don't know a word just describe what you want to say.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Why you didn't wrote glass without Kapton tape? Our teacher said if you don't know a word just describe what you want to say.

..sorry, I do not understand German so did not get that, but no problem, the word is now googleized :-)



Erik

un-kaptonized = glass without Kapton tape

BTW Printing directly on glass can work but it don't have to. I always got better sticking with Kapton tape. And I only found very less filaments which allowed to direct print on glass. Mostly failed. The best surface option is either PrintBite or BuildTak.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
BTW Printing directly on glass can work but it don't have to. I always got better sticking with Kapton tape. And I only found very less filaments which allowed to direct print on glass. Mostly failed. The best surface option is either PrintBite or BuildTak.

Have tried printing on glass but got too many failed prints so had to give it up

Yes Kapton tape works great with PLA, ABS also sticks to it just fine but the glue under the tape will fail if the ABS warps and leave the surface with air filled bubbles

Before next print I stab a hole at the edge of the bubble with a needle and press out the air, the glue will then attach again, after that I sand the surface over with P500-600 wet and dry, this way I can usually re-use the Kapton for ABS a couple of times, but my preferred material for ABS prints is BuildTak, but even the glue under that can fail

Here's a picture from the underside of the glass with BT that should show where the glue have failed, guess I'll have to re-BuildTakinize that glass :-)



Erik

Hello again,

I finally managed to print! I leveled the bed and it was off by some 3mm, I suppose bed compensation couldn't compensate for that much. I spent some time and got it to an accuracy of around 0.2mm. Now, I also do a bed compensation before I print and the printout doesn't stop and comes out nice!

Thank you all for helping me out! I really appreciate it!

:-)

To test for level, you can keep your printer powered off. Manually move the nozzle to about the centre of the glass and put a sheet of paper under the nozzle. Lower the nozzle by screwing the Z screw by hand until it just grips the paper - be careful that the hand holding the paper is not pressing down on the bed. Then move the nozzle by hand to different positions on the bed (you can tilt the nozzle up to move, then let go of the head after each move to test the grip on the paper) and see whether the paper is gripped more tightly or more loosely, and it will quickly identify the high and low spots on your bed. Adjust the bed levelling bolts at the corners to get the distance as equal as possible all over the glass. You should be able to adjust the bed so that the difference is less than 0.1mm, which means that you will not need to apply any bed compensation.

If the bed cannot be levelled in X, it indicates a twisted X-arm. If it cannot be levelled in Y, it indicates that your front and rear Y rods are not perfectly parallel (one rod is higher than the other at one end).

The thicker the first layer, the more tolerant of a non-flat bed. You can go as high as 0.5mm for the first layer thickness.

Dave

Thanks Dave, my bed is level now and printing goes fine so far!