Need a set of Z Axis gears printed please

Is there anyone here that could print me a good set of Z Axis gears so I can get me printer going. The gears that came with the kit suck and they bind like crazy. I have tried to correct them but it is no good. I have a friend with a 3D printer and he printed me a set and they look great except the holes in the center do not fit at all. The cutout for the nut is not there and the other one will not fit over the motor. Any good set will do, stock or the herringbone style I'm not picky.
If you really want to help a set of extruder gears would be nice too but I think the ones that came with the kit will work. My first order of business once I get this printer going to to print better quality parts for it.

I'll print you a set. If you allow some time for me to figure out why one of my extruders suddenly started skipping for no apparent reason from one day to the next... Could even do you the spring-loaded extruder. Got two of them and they're pretty neat.

Bart

Anything you have and or can print would be great.
I can paypal you for shipping and costs.

Brandon

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bartdietrich
I'll print you a set. If you allow some time for me to figure out why one of my extruders suddenly started skipping for no apparent reason from one day to the next... Could even do you the spring-loaded extruder. Got two of them and they're pretty neat.

Bart

Don't worry about costs, it's just a bit of plastic. As for postage, surely shipping a few grams of plastic won't be too pricey, even across the pond (you're in the US?) It'll be a few days though before I even get started on this. I think my current skipping problem is nozzle related rather than extruder drive related, in which case swapping my PLA nozzles to ABS nozzles would sort it out but I want to get to the bottom of this first.

Bart

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2016 02:08PM by bartdietrich.

Well if shipping gets a little expensive let me know and I hope to be able to repay your kindness or pass it forward to someone else.

Just to keep you updated, extruder is printing now. Done the z-axis gears but one of them will need redoing as it's curled up at the edges a bit. Might print that one in PLA instead of ABS...

Thanks for the update. Not to be picky but check the center holes to make sure they look good. The 2 sets I got locally had holed that made them unusable for me as the nut would not fit in one and the other was too small to fit over the motor shaft by a long shot. The outsides looked great. Maybe that is the norm for 3d printing and I'm just expecting too much.

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brlowe
Thanks for the update. Not to be picky but check the center holes to make sure they look good. The 2 sets I got locally had holed that made them unusable for me as the nut would not fit in one and the other was too small to fit over the motor shaft by a long shot. The outsides looked great. Maybe that is the norm for 3d printing and I'm just expecting too much.

I think you might be. Dimensions never come out perfectly accurately, at least in my experience. Some of this is down to settings of your slicer software (adjustable, although I tend to use a largely static set that works for most things and then expect to have to do some manual post-processing), and some of it is just down to the fickle nature of the plastic and printer environment (different manufacturers/batches, different viscosities at particular temperatures, draughts, ambient temperature etc). Particularly for holes that need to be a tight fit, it's better to have too small a hole (can be enlarged) than one too large (not much you can do). This is why the RepRapPro build instructions mention "fettling" on quite a few occasions. A file and a Dremel-type rotary tool come in very handy for that...

First of all you will have to check if you printed the calibration piece and followed the instruction. Then you should get good results. If not you should check the mechanics of your printer. A mostly common problems are loose belts which can result in inaccurate printings. Also make sure that your nozzle is perfectly angled to the bed and that the bearing is running freely with full contact.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
brlowe
Thanks for the update. Not to be picky but check the center holes to make sure they look good. The 2 sets I got locally had holed that made them unusable for me as the nut would not fit in one and the other was too small to fit over the motor shaft by a long shot. The outsides looked great. Maybe that is the norm for 3d printing and I'm just expecting too much.

To fit the nut, thread it onto the rod, heat it with a gas lighter and pull into the plastic (in the correct orientation for the nut trap). Helps to jig it somehow to keep the rod centred on the gear.

Dave

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Treito
First of all you will have to check if you printed the calibration piece and followed the instruction. Then you should get good results. If not you should check the mechanics of your printer. A mostly common problems are loose belts which can result in inaccurate printings. Also make sure that your nozzle is perfectly angled to the bed and that the bearing is running freely with full contact.

What on earth are you talking about?? I get repeatable results, just not perfectly accurate ones down to fractions of a millimeter, thank you. A particular set of slicing software settings will not work optimally for every object, and slightly different printed dimensions are obtained from different batches and colours of plastic. Unless you're prepared to spend time twiddling a set of settings for one specific object and batch of filament (which I'm not, for a number of reasons), 3.7 mm in your CAD software will not necessarily be 3.7 mm in the printed piece. It's the nature of the process and its feedstock. For parts which need to be a tight fit to other parts therefore, excess plastic is preferable as it can be removed to obtain the required tight fit.

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bartdietrich

A particular set of slicing software settings will not work optimally for every object, and slightly different printed dimensions are obtained from different batches and colours of plastic.

I agree... even the injection molding requires several tests to get the right size.

Dario

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Ormerod 187
Firmware Electronics: Duet 0.6
Firmware Version:1.18.1 (2017-04-07)
Web Interface Version:1.15a
Slic3r 1.2.9a and Simplify3D 4.0.0
[www.dropbox.com]

I was talking about your comment regarding printing in ABS. If I should have gotten something wrong then I have to excuse myself, but I understood that you had some other small issues besides the curling of the edges.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
I was talking about your comment regarding printing in ABS. If I should have gotten something wrong then I have to excuse myself, but I understood that you had some other small issues besides the curling of the edges.

Ah ok, no, that was one of my extruders skipping while printing a 2-colour object. Turns out it was because of the differences in two different PLA reels. The same G-code file printed fine with black and green, but the extruder would skip with black and red. Go figure. Had to turn up the temperature and slow down the red extruder. A bit of an illustration of my last post.

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brlowe
Thanks for the update. Not to be picky but check the center holes to make sure they look good. The 2 sets I got locally had holed that made them unusable for me as the nut would not fit in one and the other was too small to fit over the motor shaft by a long shot. The outsides looked great. Maybe that is the norm for 3d printing and I'm just expecting too much.

Just printing the small gears again as they came out a bit shit first time round but essentially all is done, so can you PM me what address to send everything to? If the small gears come out ok tonight, I'll post the lot tomorrow, but in any case before the end of the week.

You'll get a couple of the small ones in case you ruin one while practicing your fettling! Some of that will be required to fit them onto the motor shafts. A rotary tool of some description or small file is highly recommended.

Your printed bed is looking strange. Are you sure it is leveled?
I would have used herringbone gears for the z-axis. There is a design from Amsterdamman at Thingiverse which allows you to connect the threaded rod securely to the gear.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Your printed bed is looking strange. Are you sure it is leveled?

Must be the camera angle. I assure you the bed is as level as I was able to get it manually (within 0.1 - 0.2 mm).

that's much if you don't use ABL

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I just got my new gears and spring loaded extruder from Bart. They look great and I will be back working on my printer today after work.

Thank you Bart for being so helpful.

Glad they arrived in one piece. Hope it all fits your printer.

Bart