Z-rod wobbling about

My Z rod wobbled a bit from side to side from day one, but it never caused any problems with the print as the wobble wasnt that big.
My first upgrade was the extended Znut trap with the extended nut on the rod.

So I wanted to do some more upgrades to my Ormerod 1 and I printed these Z axis gears Amsterdammans drive and stabilizing gears. However, the hole for the drive gear is too wide, so it does not have a tight fit on the shaft.
I tried combining his stabilized gear and I the drive gear from Iamburny but now the rod wobbles even more.

Im going back to both Iamburnys gears for now, but would like to know is there any third, better option for those gears so that the rod does not wobble at all?

I use Sot's (thank you!) taller mod of the original, not perfect but better than the original IMHO

[forums.reprap.org]

There's an extra lower nut for support of the threaded rod, both nuts is in-bedded in the gear so cannot be tightened against the gear, also had to slim down the lower nut or it would drag against the screw holding the supporting bearing, but it works well and runs straight

If you chose to use this mod I would recommend you drill out the upper nut to 5mm, this way you will be able to tighten the extra upper nut against the gear wheel




Erik

I would put some decoupling. In fact, I bought myself few but never mounted one, since in the end it prints well as is

---

----- Making the world smarter @ www.xetal.eu
----- Helping entrepreneurs @ www.fralke.com

This can easily happen if the printed gears are not perfect. You also could play with your Slicer-settings. After some trouble like yours the Amsterdamman's gears work fine for me. Do you have a bearing at the top side? This could be a problem, too.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I never had much luck printing gears for the Z drive that ran quite right, always seemed to be some problem or another. I finally gave up the other month, got a chinese leadscrew, redesigned some parts and moved my Z axis motor a bit and set the whole thing up for direct drive. No more gears. Still need to do some revision work on the parts, but I'm happy to be free of the gears.

Quote
Treito
This can easily happen if the printed gears are not perfect. You also could play with your Slicer-settings. After some trouble like yours the Amsterdamman's gears work fine for me. Do you have a bearing at the top side? This could be a problem, too.

I am not quite sure what I could change within Slic3r regarding these gears. The hole in the drive gear is pretty wide, its not just a little wide, there is no tight fit at all, it has a lot of free space between the shaft of the motor and the walls of the gear. I dont think I can change that in Slic3r.

Slic3r provides an option exactly for this, but you will need at least version 1.2.9. Unfortunately I can have a look in 10 or more hours, but there's a tooltip. It's some sort of a factor. I am not sure, but I used something about 0.5 to print my first set of gears with it. It was something with x/y hole size or so. Sorry I don't often use Slic3r.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Slic3r provides an option exactly for this, but you will need at least version 1.2.9

Erik

Thanks Erik, but from inside my bed it was hard to make a screenshot.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
ormerod168
I use Sot's (thank you!) taller mod of the original, not perfect but better than the original IMHO

[forums.reprap.org]

There's an extra lower nut for support of the threaded rod, both nuts is in-bedded in the gear so cannot be tightened against the gear, also had to slim down the lower nut or it would drag against the screw holding the supporting bearing, but it works well and runs straight

If you chose to use this mod I would recommend you drill out the upper nut to 5mm, this way you will be able to tighten the extra upper nut against the gear wheel

[attachment 74057 org.vsz-gear-driven_tall.JPG]
[attachment 74059 z-gear-driven_tall.JPG]

Erik

Hi Erik, these look good, but dont they remind a lot of the original ones that came with the printer in green color? I replaced them first cause I read on many threads that they didnt give as much precision as did the herringbone gears.

Quote
Sardi

Hi Erik, these look good, but dont they remind a lot of the original ones that came with the printer in green color?

Yes but there's a big difference, Sot's mod makes for a much stronger bind between the threaded rod and the gear wheel

Quote
myself
If you chose to use this mod I would recommend you drill out the upper nut to 5mm, this way you will be able to tighten the extra upper nut against the gear wheel

Did, as to show you guys what I meant

The middle nut on the picture is drill out to 5mm, the upper nut is slimmed down a bit to clear the screw that attach the bearing to the stepper


Pulling both nut in the gear





Compare:

Quote

I replaced them first cause I read on many threads that they didnt give as much precision as did the herringbone gears.

I don't think it makes much difference, the weight of the x-arm keep the gear wheels in contact all the time doing printing

Erik

Thanks Eric for the info. I started printing them right now

I also found in one of my Ormerod parts folder a "nut trap shim" 1 and 2mm thick.



Did anyone find any good use of this?