A couple of questions

Hello! I have a couple of questions I'm hoping people can help me answer. This weekend I'm planning to change to an E3D hot end and finally mount the hot end sensor I received from dc42 weeks ago, so I want to make sure I get it all right.

What connector type does the sensor board use? I'll need some of the 2 pin connectors and pins so I can more easily swap between hot ends if need be.

I've got a 12V 20A fanless power supply (I had a 24V 20A supply but that blew up and the seller sent me a 12V replacement in error then refunded me the difference). Is this beefy enough to crank up to 14V so I can attempt to get my 200x300 heated bed to reach ABS temperature? I'm using a single head, though I do plan to try a dual head setup when I can afford to splurge on a Duet 0.8.5, at which point I assume I will certainly need more amps. I can't get the bed much past 75C using the ATX power supply that came with the printer (it's an Ormerod 1).

Here's the E3D mount I designed in case anyone finds it useful: RepRapPro Ormerod E3D Mount

Many thanks!

With the 20A supply you should be able to reach at least 100°C on your bed. I have a 15A supply and it tops at 90°C

The current is not the main thing for the temperature. It depends on the thermal insulation and the resistance of the bed as well as the size. To get more temperature you have to increase the voltage. The power supply should be able to deliver enough current at the selected voltage. So comparisons are not that easy.

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I have cranked up my 12V supply to 14V and it has been fine for a couple of years with no other modifications, and certainly improved the bed heating time. The only part that could suffer from the increased voltage is the hotend fan, and you can drop that with a couple of series diodes if you want to play safe - but as said, mine seems none the worse for it.

Dave

Quote
static65
What connector type does the sensor board use? I'll need some of the 2 pin connectors and pins so I can more easily swap between hot ends if need be.

My Ormerod sensor board uses Moles KK connectors. The part number for the 2-way shell is 22-01-2025 and the crimp pins are 08-50-0032. They are readily available from Farnell, RS etc. and on eBay.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks all. It's gone surprisingly well so far, sensor board fitted and working perfectly, E3D hot end is producing mostly decent prints. Just need to test it with the 12V power supply pushed up to 14V. Only trouble is the stringing from the hot end, and that is something I had trouble with when I originally tried the E3D end with 24V parts.

I'm using Simplify3D and have retraction set to 2.5mm, wipe distance set to 1.5mm and 'retract during wipe' enabled. I shall try increasing the wipe and/or retraction distance but if anyone has any pro tips for E3D hot ends they will be gratefully received! I also noticed there's a small amount of play in the bowden fitting at the top of the E3D hot end, so I'll see about tackling that as well.

I've used up to 6mm retraction before with 0.4mm nozzle ,now that i have 0.5 i have only 3mmm no idea why that makes any diferenace(but i was also getting blobs then at start of layer). Now i only need to figure out how to get rid of uneaven layers(could be fillament related but it is not noticable as much with big objects as with small ones where i can make out where the layer started.). As for the play in the bowdeb fiting i have put some thick abaut 1.5mm copper wirhe between plastic and the aluminum part. Or you can print this: [www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2016 01:56PM by Darathy.

I think the length of the bowden cable itself require 4mm, this is my setting with the standard Ormerod 1 nozzle

Erik

Cheers for the suggestions, printed that clip Darathy linked and that's removed all the play in the bowden fitting. I ended up with 4.5mm retraction and some coast-at-end which finally got rid of the stringing. Still haven't fitted the 12V LED power supply but it works as-is using the ATX supply, I'll get around to it at some point.