Warping issue

I am trying to print a Y belt tensioner for Ormerod 1. But every single print ends up with one side getting off from the heated bed and warping.

I tried different bed temps from 65 to 80 (pla + I use 185/165 for hot end), different speeds, even different locations on the bed and different rotations for this part, but its always the most furthest out section of the tensioner that lifts up.
In the picture you see the brim has lifted, but its also that part of the tensioner that is lifted as well.



And its always this side of the part that lifts, even if I rotate the part, the side that now lifted wont lift on the other side. If I put the file near the X end, its always the section furthest more out that lifts and everything else holds on good.
Any ideas why?
Or should I just use some glue to get some better adhesion?

Also, I use an One-piece fan/heatsink duct by DC42 for cooling.

On what do you print?

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----- Making the world smarter @ www.xetal.eu
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I am printing on this, and also have a backwash elminator grill.

have you tried printing on a colder surface? I usulay print at 45°C on plain glass. 50°C for the first layer.

You could try coating your bed with solvent cement (used for joining plastic pipes, available in DIY stores), or ABS juice. Also try rotating the part on the build plate by 45 or 90 degrees in case it's fan backwash or room draughts.

Dave

Quote
DasBasti
have you tried printing on a colder surface? I usulay print at 45°C on plain glass. 50°C for the first layer.

Not yet, cause It looks like 60C for this white filament is somewhat of a lowest point for adhesion, I dont need to wait for the bed to cool down to less than 50C before I can easily detach the objects.

Quote
dmould
You could try coating your bed with solvent cement (used for joining plastic pipes, available in DIY stores), or ABS juice. Also try rotating the part on the build plate by 45 or 90 degrees in case it's fan backwash or room draughts.

Dave

I think your first option (solvent cement) could help. Didnt try rotating it ba 45 or 90 degrees, only 180 (I like to follow the x axis) but I can give it a try. Fan backwash is eliminated by a grill on the vent so thats not causing the problem.

Did you try hair spray?

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----- Making the world smarter @ www.xetal.eu
----- Helping entrepreneurs @ www.fralke.com

One this i find best is to use Sugar!. I once saw it in a post here on the forum(i dont remeber by who). I use a glass jar(from Honey or any other) put in some hot water(somewhere below the boiling point araund 70C, i do this mainly becouse it melts the sugger faster and kills all the bacteria so it will last longer) and then a lot of sugar ,so much to make a syrup. I use paper tissue and soak it in and run it over the glass. PLA will stick to it verry hard and will come loose once it cools down to room temperature. When i am done printing i just wash it with water.

Sounds interesting. What about ABS?

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Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

I've not tried sugar (sounds interesting), but I found that hairspray was not nearly as good as solvent cement (and is expensive!). Though my experience is with ABS rather than PLA so YMMV.

I use ABS juice now - which is about as quick and easy to make as sugar solution - put some white ABS offcuts or filament sections into a jar, add acetone and shake. I use an old solvent cement container which has a brush attached to the lid.

Dave

I have not tried it with ABS