Maximum temperature for PTFE-liner?

Hello,

after my original Hot-end died because the PTFE-liner inside melted I am wondering what is the maximum temperature for it. For the moment I use PrintBite and this requires a temperature setup of 125/250°C. Is this okay or already too high?

Best regards,
Sven

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

327C is the melting point acording to [en.wikipedia.org]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/12/2016 03:25AM by Darathy.

Okay thanks. I asked because I got several information that the maximum working temperature should not exceed 245°C.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
Hello,

after my original Hot-end died because the PTFE-liner inside melted I am wondering what is the maximum temperature for it. For the moment I use PrintBite and this requires a temperature setup of 125/250°C. Is this okay or already too high?

Best regards,
Sven

How good is PrintBite? Have you tried it with ABS? As I've mentioned in another thread, I would like to find a print surface that I do not need to coat between prints. If PrintBite works, it would also hopefully also allow me to use DC42's Z sensor to set the Z home position without manual adjustment. Reading the instructions on the PrintBite site, it states that you *may* need to raise the temperature of the first layer by *up to* 10 deg for the first layer. I usually print with ABS at 230 degrees, so 240 should be the highest you need to go unless you are using a filament that requires a higher temperature than ABS (nylon?)

AFAICS "PrintBite" is the same as fibreglass PCB material.

Dave

For PLA it works quite good, but I still have trouble with little warping with PLA.
For ABS it works with the above settings and nearly no warping.
You need high temperatures especially for the first layer.
It is based on FR4, but the sticking is much better.
PrintBite is robust but very sensitive regarding the cleaner you use. Probably I have destroyed one, but it was not mentioned that you are not allowed to use special industrial cleaners. Only pure glass cleaner and Acetone seems to be okay.
However in Germany there is a surface called FilaPrint. As far as I know this surface should work better and gives a shiny surface without structures, but the price is nearly twice.
I think think I will give it a try next month.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
dmould

Quote
Treito
Hello,

after my original Hot-end died because the PTFE-liner inside melted I am wondering what is the maximum temperature for it. For the moment I use PrintBite and this requires a temperature setup of 125/250°C. Is this okay or already too high?

Best regards,
Sven

How good is PrintBite? Have you tried it with ABS? As I've mentioned in another thread, I would like to find a print surface that I do not need to coat between prints. If PrintBite works, it would also hopefully also allow me to use DC42's Z sensor to set the Z home position without manual adjustment. Reading the instructions on the PrintBite site, it states that you *may* need to raise the temperature of the first layer by *up to* 10 deg for the first layer. I usually print with ABS at 230 degrees, so 240 should be the highest you need to go unless you are using a filament that requires a higher temperature than ABS (nylon?)

AFAICS "PrintBite" is the same as fibreglass PCB material.

Dave

Dave

As trieto says Printbite is similar to FR4 but has a slightly different formulation for the Epoxy AFAIK With Abs I find a bed at 105 and hotend at about 235-245 on my delta works extremely well.

Abs sticks like the Proverbial Sxxx to a Blanket until the bed drops to below around 65-70 degrees at which point the part just literally pops of the bed no tools required.

You can see a checker type pattern in the first layer but it is also very smooth and glassy in appearance.

It needs nothing more than a clean with acetone to remove any finger grease or dirt.

I use it on my 380mm diam delta stuck directly to my 6mm thick Ecocast plate with no issues at all.

the only issue with it is the price but you do not need to treat it in any way for it to work with DC42's ir probe.

HTH

Doug

The price? The standard permanently bed surface here in Germany costs twice as PrintBite and for my forthcoming printer even three times more than PrintBite.
The price is okay for a durable bed surface and is similar with BuildTak, but BuildTak doesn't last very long.
The pattern is okay and that's the main difference to a normal FR4.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
The price? The standard permanently bed surface here in Germany costs twice as PrintBite and for my forthcoming printer even three times more than PrintBite.
The price is okay for a durable bed surface and is similar with BuildTak, but BuildTak doesn't last very long.
The pattern is okay and that's the main difference to a normal FR4.

Treito
I am not complaining about the price however I believe that the Ormerod has a 200x200 mm bed my Printer has a 38mm Diam bed and when you get upto those dimension's (and Shape) then the price increases dramatically but I am with you in that it is worth every penny for something that works.

I would have tried PEI if I could have got a piece large enough in Europe but it is almost impossible to find.

My next printer may give me a huge headache to find a piece large enough but that will be a question to ask Mutley when it is time and I know what size I will need (Think it will be around 600-650 Square)

Doug

The size for the Ormerod is 214x200mm.
I am telling that the price is not very much because I recently bought a PrintBite for my coming printer with a bed size of 300x300mm.
The price for a PrintBite or BuildTak with these dimensions is about 35€. The German "standard" FilaPrint is about 95€.
I first wanted to build a printer with 400x400mm bed size but the costs for a heated bed in this dimensions were too high at least.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

yes I know what your saying my 380mm diam one was about 65 euros in fact my 400x400 one was a lot cheaper (cutting costs where high) just hope they can do a piece big enough for my next one which will need to be 600 x 520

I will give a Pertinax plate a try. Cheap solution, but probably it needs to be sanded regularly.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

All reports I have read indicate that PrintBite should work very well indeed with ABS. I've just ordered a 250 X 250mm sheet (£18 + £3 P&P). The site states that it is easy to cut down to size by scoring using a metal straight-edge and snapping along the score. I'll see! I'll stick it to my aluminium plate which will act as both a sturdy support and a heat-spreader. I should be able to cut it to cover the whole area, including the section over the bed heater connector, because my aluminium bed plate has a cutout to clear the bed connector which the PrintBite can bridge over (the plate is thick enough to clear the connector tails), so I'll get an extra few mm in the X axis direction.

Dave

That's my idea for my new printer. The screw heads should be at the same height as the aluminum and PrintBite will cover the heads.
However the setup 125/250°C worked once for ABS for me. This weekend I will run further test.
However I switched the hotend. The original one always cooled down the print at least a little bit. My current setup needs a second fan at least for PLA, because it only cools down the hotend. I can print most filaments like eSun, but 3DFilaments.IE fails without the second fan. With the original hotend I had no problems printing it.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

PTFE fumes need to be handled with caution. I had a guest fry something in a Teflon pan once, and we had to evacuate the house for a couple of hours. The smoke is lethal to birds and it'll give you nausea with a raging headache for the rest of the night. Certainly not a medical emergency but it's also not pleasant.

My understanding is that PTFE begins to decompose at 260C, but I've read many different temperatures ranging from 200 to 350.

Wiki on "Teflon fever": 232
Wiki on Teflon fever, source: 500F / 260C
Wiki on PTFE: 327
Wiki on PTFE#Safety: 200 / 250 / 260 / 350
Ultimaker: 260
E3D: 240

I'm honestly not sure who to believe, but most sources and ABS suppliers I've come across advise to not exceed 260. This is the hottest I've run my PTFE-lined hotends and the PTFE remained intact, though it's such a small amount any pyrolysis would go unnoticed. The various temperatures may be down to inconsistencies across manufacturers.

Exactly that's the reason why I asked, but I only had less information. One was also 200°C.
As my old hotend probably got too hot I didn't notice any special fumes, but only a very tiny part got damaged.
Probably E3D calculates some safety.
I think I will not exceed 250°C. It seems like that this is the right temperature for PrintBite.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
For PLA it works quite good, but I still have trouble with little warping with PLA.
For ABS it works with the above settings and nearly no warping.
You need high temperatures especially for the first layer.
It is based on FR4, but the sticking is much better.
PrintBite is robust but very sensitive regarding the cleaner you use. Probably I have destroyed one, but it was not mentioned that you are not allowed to use special industrial cleaners. Only pure glass cleaner and Acetone seems to be okay.
However in Germany there is a surface called FilaPrint. As far as I know this surface should work better and gives a shiny surface without structures, but the price is nearly twice.
I think think I will give it a try next month.

Hello Treito,

not only you have problems with it. in the German groups more and more Users got troubles. The surface seems to get micro cracks after several month. im pretty shure you can see it under a microscope.
I know a handfull of people that have same issues now after less than 5 month, many removed it.
Same will happen with FR4 after few month, also dont forget, FR4 is not healthy when heated. It is Epoxy.

Compared to any other printsurface i have tested, FilaPrint will last easily 5 years and is safe. We have printed more than a ton of mixed filament on one single FilaPrint. No cleaning necessary at all. Even Polycarbonate is printable and most other filaments too.
Good products will always establish earlier or later. We started 2013 selling FilaPrint.
You can be ashure. once i have a better surface in my hands of course i will setup our printers with it and offer a new better product.
But after 5 years i can guarantee - there is no.


best
Daniel

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/14/2016 09:41AM by Filafarm.

---

Onlinestore: www.filafarm.com & Galerie

Hello Daniel,

PrintBite is also based on FR4 as clear mentioned. The manual adviced to use specific cleaner but it didn't mention that industrial cleaners could harm the surface. To be honest, I am not convinced that the cleaner harmed the surface. The second printer had some trouble, too, but here I didn't use it. FR4 shouldn't be more harmful than Pertinax which you sell meanwhile.

Besides at the German groups especially at Facebook only your product is mentioned. By the way how did you find this theme? As far as I know you don't have an Ormerod.

Best regards,

Sven

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

We have many printers here

I dont know where you get your informations from, treito, but you can be ahure we tried all surfaces that are available on the market and
we sell several products related to printsbeds and refer to the specific properties.

Our printbeds are based on carbon, FR, Perti, PEI and also our FilaPrint.
FilaPrint will perform out all the other materials regards to adhession, releasing, dutrability, healthiness for the User and the look of the bottom of the printed parts.
But we still want to offe the full spectrum of surfaces to our costumers´, so they can choose by themself.

I personally recommend FilaPrint now for 4 years and nothing has changed since then

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/15/2016 07:32AM by Filafarm.

---

Onlinestore: www.filafarm.com & Galerie

Quote
Filafarm
FilaPrint will perform out all the other materials regards to adhession, releasing, dutrability, healthiness for the User and the look of the bottom of the printed parts

But all that doesn't matter if the glue fails - is the adhesiveness of the glue under the FilaPrint better than BuildTak? - do you have comparing pull-test data to show?



Erik

Erik the FilaPrint seems to use a different adhesive. It's kind of funny. At at least one German FB group is a guy who only finds bad words for FilaPrint, but if you would have seen his setup and especially how he mounted the FilaPrint. The area of air bubbles is bigger than the area of correct adhesion.
Now he just told that he needed to remove the rest adhesive more than 15 minutes. Besides is FilaPrint not comparable with BuildTak. It's probably not so weak and you couldn't bend it like BuildTak.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

FilaPrint give you a stronger adhession than Buildtalk and once cooled down the parts remove very easily !

---

Onlinestore: www.filafarm.com & Galerie

Quote
Filafarm
FilaPrint give you a stronger adhession than Buildtalk and once cooled down the parts remove very easily !

I will report, but for the moment I am very disappointed regarding PrintBite. The latest advice was to use ABS juice, but I am not happy doing this (fumes and cleaning, but especially the fumes) and besides my forthcoming printer will have a permanently mounted surface so this is no option.

@Daniel I was always looking for this statement to have a comparison. This sounds good because the BuildTak has a stronger adhesion as PrintBite. Now I am happy and looking forward to receive the FilaPrint and in the next month I probably order more if I am satisfied.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

ABS juice does not produce significant fumes (just the smell of acetone for a few minutes whilst drying which is no worse than when your wife removes her nail polish). It can easily be applied to a permanent surface - I usually paint it on with the bed in-situ. If it has become too uneven, just clean & spread the old coatings using a paper towel soaked in acetone.

Having said that, I will be disappointed if I still need to use it with PrintBite. The main reason I bought PrintBite was to avoid needing to coat the build plate. I understand that the first layer temperature must be considerably higher for ABS to grip onto PrintBite, so maybe that was the issue - I'll report my experience after my Printbite arrives and I've tried it.

Dave

I am using 125/250°C and I still have warping.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
I am using 125/250°C and I still have warping.

The bed material is not likely to stop that. Even if you stopped the part from lifting off the bed (which ABS juice may achieve), you will probably still get warps, but it will split at a layer instead of lifting off the bed.

Some parts will always warp when printed in ABS unless you have a heated chamber. To reduce the probability you should:
1) Use rounded corners for your designs whenever possible
2) Ensure absolutely no draughts
3) Do not use any cooling fan on the print (I have modified my hotend so that the cooling fan does not exhaust toward the nozzle)
4) Keep ambient temperature as high as practical (as said, a heated chamber may be necessary for some prints)
5) Reduce the bed temperature after the first layer to as low as possible without loosening

For some designs I have to split the design into 2 or more sections with less height, and bond them together (using acetone) afterwards.

Dave

I exchanged the hotend. Both printers uses the same hotend now. Recently I saw a side effect. I was not able to print PLA filament from one manufacturer because this filament needs advanced cooling. My new hotend doesn't cool the printed parts anymore like the old hotend did. So I needed to add a second fan to be able to print it. With the original hotend it was no problem.
Of course there's a risk of warping, but not that extreme and mostly the parts freed itselves.
The manufacturer of PrintBite suggested not do reduce the bed temperature.
I will test the other bed surface. What I can tell is that using BuildTak I had much less warping and a much better sticking when using ABS.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

So especially for dmould take a look here:
[forums.reprap.org]

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.

Quote
Treito
So especially for dmould take a look here:
[forums.reprap.org]

Thanks. Unfortunately I am still waiting for my PrintBite to arrive. I hope it's not another fly-by-night company.

Dave

Quote
dmould

Quote
Treito
So especially for dmould take a look here:
[forums.reprap.org]

Thanks. Unfortunately I am still waiting for my PrintBite to arrive. I hope it's not another fly-by-night company.

Dave

Dave

I have been using Printbite for some time now with a 380mm Diam Delta and have had absolutely no issues with it at all However you do need to apply it to the Bed with the Correct Adhesive product something like 3m468 or 8153 high temp stuff I initially made the mistake of using Flooring tape from the Hardware store not realising the the one I got was for Carpet (It is totally unsuitable for the job) I should have got one for Vinyl (Or Linoleum),

I have a couple of friends with it as well who swear by it also. one of them in fact attached it to a borosilicate Glass bed but that was a disaster in that the expansion rates being slightly different caused the Glass to Break however The suppliers sent him a replacement piece Free of Charge.

My piec in that size cost me around £35 i think and a piece of filaprint would be of the order of £160 so a big difference and I don't like the Idea of not being able to use a cleaner on it I suffer with very greasy finger's and I think it is impossible not to touch the surface.

I would use PEI if it where available here in a big enough piece but it isn't.

p.s. I clean my Printbite down with Acetone on a fairly regular basis due to my secretion of Grease from my Finger and it has had no detriment at all.

At the end of the day it is whatever works for the individual?

Doug

Hello Doug,

Jason applied adhesive for me so I ad it to a borosilicate glass. As I bought mine I wasn't sure which ad I could or should use so he sold it including adhesive. The question is: How old is your PrintBite? It is possible that we have different products!
Regarding PEI I am skeptical. Especially in Germany often a coating only is offered and that is not very durable. I have no reports of a PEI plate.
Inofficially you can clean FilaPrint with water and you also could do a refreshment. That should remove at least all grease.
There are users in the German FB groups that really use gloves when handling their prints.

---

Slicer: Simplify3D 4.0; sometimes CraftWare 1.14 or Cura 2.7
Delta with Duet-WiFi, FW: 1.20.1RC2; mini-sensor board by dc42 for auto-leveling
Ormerod common modifications: Mini-sensor board by dc42, aluminum X-arm, 0.4 mm nozzle E3D like, 2nd fan, Z stepper nut M5 x 15, Herringbone gears, Z-axis bearing at top, spring loaded extruder with pneumatic fitting, Y belt axis tensioner
Ormerod 2: FW: 1.19-dc42 on Duet-WiFi. own build, modifications: GT2-belts, silicone heat-bed, different motors and so on. Printed parts: bed support, (PSU holder) and Y-feet.
Ormerod 1: FW: 1.15c-dc42 on 1k Duet-Board. Modifications: Aluminium bed-support, (nearly) all parts reprinted in PLA/ ABS, and so on.