Source for STL for part 741 Quick-set hot end fan spacer?

Hello,
Because I've been having problems with overhangs curling up, I'd like to add a cooling fan to my Ormerod 2, model 528.2 with the older 'one piece stainless steel nozzle'.

I've printed the part 1123 cooling fan duct [github.com], but now realise I have no way to mount it to my device.
In the instructions for the Quick-set hot end assembly [reprappro.com], I saw that there is a part '741 Quick-set hot end fan spacer' which the cooling fan duct mounts to. This part looks a neat way of mounting the fan to my printer with the minimum of alterations.

Questions, can anyone help?:
Will the quick-set hot end fan spacer fit the rest of my machine?
If so, does anyone have an STL for the '741 Quick-set hot end fan spacer' which I could print on my Ormerod?

I know there are other cooling solutions available, but I'd like to try the RepRapPro version first- it looks tidy.

Many thanks, and happy new year to you all.

gwild

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/30/2016 08:32AM by gwild.

Hi gwild

I believe the part you are talking about is usually supplied as laser cut acrylic part.
It can be found in the reprappro github repository Quick-set-hot-end.

There are solidworks format files for it and I think a dxf format one as well in a DXF/ directory.

But here is a zipp'ed file containing a .stl format file of the solidworks part, I have not used this personally, so have no idea if a printed version is a good idea or will fit your machine.
You'll have to print it and see what the fit is like, someone else here may have done this already.

Hope this helps.

Lloyd

Hi

You might also find this thread useful Broken fan spacer.

It also has various stl files for this part.

Lloyd

I have printed it and works great .even better then acrylic which was brittle.

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gwild
Hello,
Because I've been having problems with overhangs curling up, I'd like to add a cooling fan to my Ormerod 2, model 528.2 with the older 'one piece stainless steel nozzle'.
gwild

Yes cooling is important but also the stretch of hot filament, e.g. think of the extruded filament as rubber bands added upon each others like outer layers, if you stretch them before adding they will try to curl up, if you push them out they will have no power left to retract, reduce stretching by slowing the speed (esp. reduce speed at small perimeters) and most importantly: ad to the extrusion width (push out the filament) - when slicing for overhangs, go for at least 1.5 x nozzle size, or better, 1.5 x the free extruded filament, this way you should be able to print at least 70 degrees overhang without any curl-ups

Printed on Ormerod 1



Erik

Thanks, I'll print and have a go mounting.
Erik, what circular cooling duct are you using in your photo 'overhang_test4.JPG'? I've looked on [reprap.org] but can't see it. It looks interesting- after I mounted a cooling fan, I can see the advantages for cooling from all directions.
Thanks

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gwild
Erik, what circular cooling duct are you using in your photo 'overhang_test4.JPG'? I've looked on [reprap.org] but can't see it. It looks interesting

It's a manually modified version of this one from thingiverse:
[www.thingiverse.com]





Later cut it open for higher airflow and changed the deflector plate to a Tuborg version, much better!



This is how it looked before the cut, it's a very close shave, notice the capacitor of dc42's probe resting against the cooling ring



..and it actually dings against the threaded rod while homing



..and it is resting up against the x-runner bearing



So not a very shareable mod I'm afraid...

Erik

Do you not use this fan Duct any more Erik?

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Karoo Klong
Do you not use this fan Duct any more Erik?

No, it was good, way better than the original setup but did not distribute the air evenly around the nozzle as a proper ring cooler should
..like this one from thingiverse, look at the simulation picture, perfect!



[www.thingiverse.com]

But its way too big to fit the ormerod so I ended up with the Cobra instead and its great

Erik

Oh ok.
So a snail fan is the only proper way to go?
An then of course the Cobra rype cooler?

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ormerod168

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gwild
Hello,
Because I've been having problems with overhangs curling up, I'd like to add a cooling fan to my Ormerod 2, model 528.2 with the older 'one piece stainless steel nozzle'.
gwild

Yes cooling is important but also the stretch of hot filament, e.g. think of the extruded filament as rubber bands added upon each others like outer layers, if you stretch them before adding they will try to curl up, if you push them out they will have no power left to retract, reduce stretching by slowing the speed (esp. reduce speed at small perimeters) and most importantly: ad to the extrusion width (push out the filament) - when slicing for overhangs, go for at least 1.5 x nozzle size, or better, 1.5 x the free extruded filament, this way you should be able to print at least 70 degrees overhang without any curl-ups

Printed on Ormerod 1

[attachment 88066 overhang_test4.JPG][attachment 88067 IMG_6487-1600.jpg][attachment 88068 IMG_6488-1600.jpg]

Erik

The pistol print looks amazing.
What material did you use for it?
Also what slicer did you use and perhaps settings?
Those supports look like Simplify 3d generated.

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Karoo Klong
Oh ok.
So a snail fan is the only proper way to go?

Yes, to tunnel the air and direct it to the nozzle you need pressure

Quote

An then of course the Cobra rype cooler?

Yes, that is IMHO the best one possible to fit the ormerod original hotend

Erik

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Karoo Klong
The pistol print looks amazing.
What material did you use for it?

PLA from Filaprint AFAIR

Quote

Also what slicer did you use and perhaps settings?

Simplify3D, 2 perimeters, 40mm/s, layer 0.2mm, infill 30%, temp. bed 62, nozzle 205, support no

Quote

Those supports look like Simplify 3d generated.

It's tinkercad Autodesk Meshmixer generated and included with the model

Erik

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/08/2018 07:17AM by ormerod168.

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Karoo Klong
Also what slicer did you use and perhaps settings?

Also here's some Cura setting from another user



Erik

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ormerod168

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Karoo Klong
Oh ok.
So a snail fan is the only proper way to go?

Yes, to tunnel the air and direct it to the nozzle you need pressure

Quote

An then of course the Cobra rype cooler?

Yes, that is IMHO the best one possible to fit the ormerod original hotend

Erik

Thank you.

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ormerod168

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Karoo Klong
The pistol print looks amazing.
What material did you use for it?

PLA from Filaprint AFAIR

Quote

Also what slicer did you use and perhaps settings?

Simplify3D, 2 perimeters, 40mm/s, layer 0.2mm, infill 30%, temp. bed 62, nozzle 205, support no

Quote

Those supports look like Simplify 3d generated.

It's tinkercad Autodesk Meshmixer generated and included with the model

Ok thanks.
Ill try to impliment that for my Glock 26 Training model.

Erik

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Karoo Klong
Ill try to impliment that for my Glock 26 Training model.

Another option could be to cut the model (you can do that in Sli3er) in two, then glue frame and slide together again with hotglue - done that, trainers for the IPSC newbies :-)







Erik

COOL!!!

I was wondering about those ammo boxes. Yours came out perfect.