Duet Replacement

today my Duet PCB started turning off a couple of times.
I will test further.
But Id like to know were to get an replacement and
maybe alternatives?!

Kind regards

First check that it's not something simple such as the screws in the power input terminal block having worked loose.

If you do need to replace the Duet, here are some options:

1. Duet 0.6 from reprapltd.com (direct replacement).

2. Duet 0.8.5 from Think3DPrint3D or Filastruder. Has a 5th stepper driver, so ready for dual extrusion.

3. Duet WiFi or Duet Ethernet from duet3d.com. The newer stepper drivers will make the printer quieter and you will get additional features.

With #2 and #3, if you have an Ormerod 1 then you will need to re-do the bed heater wiring. I did this a couple of weeks ago, so I can advise if needed.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

thank you,
sweet they opened their shop again?

If I have to Ill propably take the old one.
Ill continue failurechecking tonight.

having another look at the machine
running 10min long i found this:




and a little metal flake on the duet.
I remind having seen a burnt power mod before.
Unfortunatly i cant find this spare on reprapLtd.

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redblunt
having another look at the machine
running 10min long i found this:

[attachment 99517 orm.jpg]


and a little metal flake on the duet.
I remind having seen a burnt power mod before.
Unfortunatly i cant find this spare on reprapLtd.

If it is just the connetor burnt then you should be able to remove it and either replace with a new one or just solder the wires directly to that adaptor board alternativly swap the PSU out for a LED Type 12V PSU which I believe the later Printers had

what do you think caused this?

I am kind of worried running the machine again, not being sure -.-
Maybe I should add this: the calbe was cold on the Duet side
only showed extreme heat next to the connectors

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/10/2017 10:43AM by redblunt.

Thar's caused by the terminal block screw working loose. Typically this is caused by not using a ferrule on the wire end, or not crimping it on the cable tightly enough.

Are you in the UK? I have one of those boards spare. Or you can replace your ATX PSU by a LED/CCTV PSU, then you don't need that board.

---

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

i soldered out the clamp part and directly soldered the cables to the board.
It seems like the soldered connectors just broke loose.
First 2h print worked out fine again
I was checking the powercables every now and then - they are not hot
as before maybe a little warm.

Thanks David im sitting about 1000km south. I think im going to change
to the LED PSU since I already have one sitting here for my next project.

But I got questions to your IR sensor:
does it work in the dark?
Does it work on a black surface too?

Kind regards
M

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redblunt
But I got questions to your IR sensor:
does it work in the dark?

Yes

Quote

Does it work on a black surface too?

works just fine on BuildTak (can't recommend BuildTak though, the glue fails)

Erik

Quote
ormerod168

Quote
redblunt
But I got questions to your IR sensor:
does it work in the dark?

Yes

Quote

Does it work on a black surface too?

works just fine on BuildTak (can't recommend BuildTak though, the glue fails)

Erik

And you ideally want a surface devoid of any logo's printing etc
but black is the recommended surface to probe on with the ir sensor