Build log: upgrading Ormerod 2 528.2 to Duet Wifi

Hi all,
I'm upgrading my Ormerod 2 528.2 from a Duet 0.6 to a Duet Wifi. I also hope to add the differential IR sensor.
I'm upgrading because
a) my Duet 0.6 has a fault that means it is not cable of using the web interface without crashing. I could fix this fault, but the effort to remove the board is sufficient for me to stick an upgraded board in
b) I'm looking forward to quieter stepper motor drivers.
c) I hope the sensor will allow better levelling so more automated prints- less manual adjustment of the nozzle height at the start of printing.

I thought I'd record what I'm doing for interest and posterity.

Before
I have the Ormerod 2 528.2.
Fairly stock. I've added
-a cooling fan, Noctua type for quietness. This meant a new spacer and mirrored fan shroud [www.thingiverse.com]
-replaced the standard nozzle fan with a Noctua for quietness
-Iamburney's Hex extruder gears [github.com]
-Iamburney's Hex z-axis gears [github.com]
-Spring loaded extruder to extrude Woodfill and Ninjaflex [www.thingiverse.com]
-Octoprint via a Raspberry Pi, including Raspberry Pi camera to keep an eye on things
-A cable chain for the hot end cables. I designed a crude anchor for the hot end of the chain [www.thingiverse.com]
-A hacksaw blade on the X-arm to space out the bearing and improve the angle of the hot end
-Aluminium X-arm

The printer is not the tidiest, but at the moment it's able to print Ninjaflex pretty well. I'm excited to see if the new board will improve on this.
Currently the noise level is around 45dB from the PSU cooling fan at idle, and 55-60dB whilst printing. As measured by 'Decibel X' on my iPhone 6, 1m to the right of the printer.


Unboxing
New board was lovingly packaged, including a link to instructions for getting started.

Getting connected
I followed the instructions at [duet3d.dozuki.com] with no problems.
The one minor hiccup I had was in step 7, "end command M587 S"your-network-ssid" P"your-network-password""
I wasn't sure if I was supposed to type "end command M587 S"virginmediaexample" P"my password""
or "end command M587 Svirginmediaexample Pmy password"
In the end it was the first option, including quotation marks around the SSID and password.

I was able to connect to the web interface with no problems.

Next step: mechanical installation

Thanks for your feedback. I have edited that page, I hope it is clearer now.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Mechanical installation

First, I need to remove the Duet 0.6. There are a lot of cables, and I assembled this a long time ago!

Comparing the two boards, the power, SD card and other connections appear to be in the same place.

I had to remove the whole metal case to get the Duet out- I'd forgotten what a palaver this is!

Following the RepRapPro instructions I trial fitted the Duet Wifi into the case.

The wifi aerial is slightly wider than the old network port, so I widened the cutout in the perimeter of the case. I found I had to do this for the full height of the network cutout to be able to slot the aerial in whilst the board is over the 12mm cap screws.

Other than that, very straight forward.

Next episode, wiring.

Wiring.
This part I'm slightly worried about, as I imagine I'll be doing a hybrid between the Ormerod 2 instructions and the Duet instructions.
I am following the guides:
Ormerod 2 [reprappro.com]
Duet [duet3d.dozuki.com]

Power
No problems, I just attached the daughter regulator board when I assembled the rest.

Endstops
X endstop. The Ormerod 2 uses the optical sensor as an endstop, so I'll shelve this for now
Y endstop. The Ormerod 2's endstop connector already has the wires in the correct position in the connector, so I just slotted the connector on.
Z endstop. The Ormerod 2 uses the optical sensor as an endstop, so I'll shelve this for now.
As per the instructions, I am able to succesfully test the y-axis endstop correctly functions.

Hotend heaters
This necessitates a modification- removing the connector then adding a ferrule to the double pair of wires that currently connect the heater to the 0.6 board. Each of the four wires from this harness needs to be about 50mm long to reach all the connections.

Motors
I've just plugged in the connectors from the Ormerod 2 onto the correct header.

Fans
On my Ormerod 528.2, the hotend fan connector comes from the hotend cable. I've identified it as the yellow and white cable pair. This connector is a 3-way, but the Duet wifi needs a 2-way. Luckily, it is easy to extract the metal connectors from the 3-way and insert them into the 2-way.
I have a cooling fan. This connects straight in.

Bed heater and thermistor
These screw straight on. I've got the bed heater cable with a black band on the right hand side, +.

Z probe
The Ormerod 2 uses a pair of 2-way connectors- a yellow and green, and a red and blue. The Duet Wifi accepts a four-way socket.
This took a bit of head scratching.
I cross referenced the 'wiring' image of the Duet 0.6 [reprappro.com],
the silkscreen on the back of the Duet 0.6 [reprap.org]
The wiring image of the Duet Wifi [duet3d.dozuki.com]
and the Z probe header pinout of the Duet Wifi [duet3d.dozuki.com]

From these sources I deduced the following for the wires for the Ormerod 2 harness, and the order they should go in the four-way socket:
Red AD12 ('IN' on Duet Wifi)
Yellow GND
Blue AD14 ('MOD' on the Duet Wifi).
Green 3V3
I unhooked the metal pins from the Ormerod's sockets, and populated a new socket with the connectors in that order.


Hotend thermistor
This is the blue and green wired 2-way molex. This connects directly to the board.

Next step: turning on and calibration.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2018 05:24PM by gwild.

Configuration

Heaters and bed temperature work perfectly.

All stepper motors work, but I had to change the direction of the X motor by following the clear instructions.

Z probe, according to [duet3d.dozuki.com] if I want to use the four-wire IR probe, I need Mode 2.

I needed to alter the position of the bed probing points and home positions.
Otherwise, good.

I went through this recently, but didn't note or write up as I did it

Nice writeup for others though, so thanks.

Connecting DC42's Mini IR sensor

Physical connections.
I printed Treito's Sensor mount 1.1 and SensorPad mini sensor board (deflector) from [www.thingiverse.com]
I found the pictures a little hard to understand until I had printed my own, but then they make perfect sense.
I used 2x M3 by 6mm to attach the new X deflector
The old 2x M2 cap screws from the old IR board for the sensor mount, and 2x M2x6mm screws to mount the PCB to the sensor mount.

Electrical
I extracted the old wires from the 4-way connector from the old board.
I reinserted them into the 3-way connector supplied with the DC42 board, in the order specified in [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]
Sensor pin / Duet header / Wire colour
Out / AD12(IN)/ Red
-/ GND/ Yellow
-/ 3V3/ Green
not used/AD14 or PC10 or MOD/ Blue

I insulated the blue wire as it is not used.
I found I could not tidily prevent the 3-way connector from unplugging during an x movement towards the tower. So I hot-glued the connection.
I used some kapton tape over the PCB to prevent shorting against the Z-axis bar.

Firmware
Following the instructions on [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]
I changed the config.g file to specify a P1 type IR sensor.
I needed to change the build plate minimum sizing and homeall and homez locations, as the IR deflector on the z carriage is closer to the board than the old deflector.

Next steps: modifying the X-carriage to remove the housing for the old IR detector.

I'd add pictures inline if anyone can point me in the right direction.

Thanks so much for this build log, I've just done the exact same thing myself and was doing OK from the Duet documentation but needed your info to sort out the Z-probe wiring.

I've just done my first print. The printer needs more setup/calibration as the nozzle height on the first layer was a tad high and it's a bit blobby overall but I basically went straight to a working printer from a dead one.

I upgraded my dual extrusion Ormerod 1 first to a Duet 0.8.5, then to a Duet Maestro. The hardest part was rewiring the bed heater, because the Ormerod 1 used a ribbon cable, and the later Duets don't have the ribbon cable connector.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].