Heating fault on heater 1

I keep getting these errors:

Error: Heating fault on heater 1, temperature rising much more slowly than the expected 1.0°C/sec
Error: Heating fault on heater 1, temperature excursion exceeded 15.0°C

The error comes either sometimes during the print, or when I set the hotend temp and wait for it to reach. Sometimes the temp shoots over +20C and then I get the second error msg.

The cables and connectors are all ok and in place. What am I missing here? Is it maybe the thermistor that is causing this?

M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 340.0, time constant 140.0, dead time 5.5, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P13.4, I0.482, D51.4
Computed PID parameters for load change: P13.

M303 H1 S220
Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 220.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended

Auto tune phase 1, heater on
Auto tune phase 2, heater off
Auto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 235.7

Warning: Heater 1 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 720C.
Auto tune heater 1 completed in 165 sec
Use M307 H1 to see the result, or M500 to save the result in config-override.g

M307 H1
Heater 1 model: gain 695.8, time constant 115.7, dead time 4.3, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 0.0, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P6.9, I0.310, D20.8
Computed PID parameters for load change: P6.9,

Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 05/30/2019 05:50AM by Sardi.

I did not use M500 after the auto tune, I went straight to print. So far so good, last time it stopped somewhere mid first layer, so Ill report back.

I guess the auto tune did something, because I just finished a 2hr print.

Hi Sadri

I have had exactly the same problem with my Ormerod 1 printer this past two weeks.
On Friday I completely stripped the hot-end assembly and cleaned everything and checked the wire connections.
I did notice that the heater cartridge sits rather loose however and the thermistor was not completely aligned to be in the centre of the heater block.
I realigned the thermistor and pushed the heater cartridge in all the way and fixed the wiring in such a way that it should not be able to slip out again.

After reassembly it dot complete a small print and when I started the printer up again after that the heater fault was back again.
bombing out at every layer and getting multiple errors. (I wrote a macro to reset the error and continue printing)

I fiddled with the heater cartridge again and pushed the wires apart as well.
I did a dry print and all was well.
I then did a 5 hour print and a 7 hour print after that without switching off the machine.

Now I am curious. What could be the cause of this problem?
How do you resolve it?
Is the heater cartridge on its way out?

So many questions and I still have so many prints that need to be completed. I cannot afford prints and having them fail mid print.
Filament and time is very costly.

Best regards

Michiel

Im gonna be honest with you and tell you that I have no idea why it started working after autotune. It just did. Hardware wise everyting is ok, Ive checked the crimps, cables, connectors, wires, unplugged, replugged, everything was in place and those actions didnt fix my problem. A simple autotune did, so was it something within the hardware? No idea.

What I can say is that every time I dont use my printer for a long time (3 weeks +) and when I do a print, the first print fails. Ive gotten used to it, and I know Im gonna have some sort of a problem after a long period of not using the printer, but even those problems (for example, first print stops mid print) get fixed by themselves after first or second try.

How do you do the Autotune?

Last night I inspected the printer again after it failed mid print on a 5 hour print. I reset the heater fault and resumed the print after fiddling with the wires a bit.
It failed another two times.

I noticed while fiddling with the wires where it connects above the print head.
The connector on my printer is transparent and I saw a black dot inside. The wires are also showing signs of overheating there.
Now that I recall previously I also had this 15 degrees error and changed the power supply but then it reared its head again!

The connector was burnt then too. That's why I changed it to the white transparent connector I have now.
So maybe check that connector and the wires there.

I am positive that is the reason for these errors.

And here is the exact problem I was talking about.

Removing Crimps from Hotend Connector?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2019 03:35AM by Karoo Klong.

Regarding PID Autotune, I followed THIS ARTICLE

Quote
Karoo Klong
And here is the exact problem I was talking about.

Removing Crimps from Hotend Connector?

Yes, those connectors are pain in the ass. But I have wires long enough so if the case is that I have to replace the whole thing, I would just cut the wires and recrimp everything.
Just go for an easy solution there.

After opening up the connector and flaring the terminals the printer worked fine for a week.

Yesterday the heater fault came back.
There has got to be a way to deal with these "hot connections".

Any ideas?

I am at the point where I am about to take off the stock print head and replace the whole thing, wiring and all with the E3D V6 Hot end that I purchased in December.

I have been putting it off since I wanted to finish printing the parts for my CNC before taking on the challenges of printing with a different hot end.

I strongly suggest replacing the connector for the heater-cartridge. I did so using XT30 connectors (rated for 30 A). [www.google.com] the rest of the connections I left alone (still using the old molex connector).

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/22/2019 03:58AM by auser.

Quote
auser
I strongly suggest replacing the connector for the heater-cartridge. I did so using XT30 connectors (rated for 30 A). [www.google.com] the rest of the connections I left alone (still using the old molex connector).

Thank you I will look into that.
I was highly considering removing the connector completely and just soldering them together.