Has anyone thought about how to add a heated bed on the Smartrap? Is it as easy as sticking a PCB heat bed under the glass and insulating the bottom? Seems like there would be potential for the printed bed mounts to melt...

You could also use a thin piece of aluminum and stick a kapton heater on the bottom. Then glass on top of that. Idk if thatll be too heavy or not though.

If you print the mounts with ABS and put PTFE washers between them and the bed, they should be fine.

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in the last version, with 250mm Y rods, an mk2 fits just right on the Yends . I didn't work so much on how to attache the mk2. I guess with the standard supports it won't be very useful. We should better screw something?

need to work again on that soon.

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smartfriendz
in the last version, with 250mm Y rods, an mk2 fits just right on the Yends . I didn't work so much on how to attache the mk2. I guess with the standard supports it won't be very useful. We should better screw something?

need to work again on that soon.

I have laser cut some thin MDF plates to sit on top of the printed parts so that the heat doesn't transfer to the PLA pieces. You could easily cut some MDF by hand, you don't need a laser cutter. I made the MDF a little larger in size too, so that there is more support under the glass.

This morning I am testing another SmartRap that I have just built, and I am using Paper Glue Stick to the glass to use as a print surface. It is working good and no need for the heated bed. I will take some photos of this first print and in the photos you will be able to see the laser cut MDF parts that I am referring to.
I was intending to use an aluminium plate with a silicone heat pad attached, and a glass sheet on top (that is what I use with my i3 and Genie MagikMakers) but I am now thinking that for this machine it will not be needed.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Mine has aluminum bed with etched pcb heater, held by bulldog clips. The heater is 6x8 so it fits the x axis perfectly and is short on the Y. I drilled 7/32" holes for the bed mount, kapton tape on both sides of plate, silicone grommet to fit M3 screw in there with M3 fiber washer on both sides of hole. Since my prints have not been so large, the 6x8 area is sufficient, the screws themselves don't get hot, maybe a tad warm due to convection (the underside gets warmer because there is less room for escape). Been ok so far. I got a 17A PS and 24A rated terminal blocks, with the bed connected to D8. I took out bed control for Pin8 in marlin and just activate the bed with M42 P8 S153 (60%) and since the max the bed seems to reach is 100C it goes to around 60C. I'll probably add a thermistor to the bed later and let repetier do the heater management for me, but for now I just added custom code to slic3r for pre and post print.

Jobzombi (I like the name) got pics?

I thought maybe trying just a couple wood strips placed between the bed and the printed parts would work. I haven't tried it yet as I'm liking PLA...

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madmike8
Jobzombi (I like the name) got pics?

I thought maybe trying just a couple wood strips placed between the bed and the printed parts would work. I haven't tried it yet as I'm liking PLA...

I have tried that Mark and it does work OK. I also like PLA and Serge's idea for using PVA glue on the cold glass, so I am sticking with PLA as it also has many other favorable qualities too.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Sorry to bring up a 2 month old thread, but with longer y-rods couldn't you just use a larger piece of glass and paperclip a mk2 right to the glass? you could clip the heater on and off the glass if you need it or not, and not have any thing to fiddle with. This seems like an option unique to smartrap and would be very clean and simple!

you could do your soldering such that the top of the mk2 was completely flat.

I was thinking of using scanner glass which is already a bit long.

I have a solution for heated bed that works really well. You can check here.

I see you have an antibacklash on the z-axis

Maybe this M5 antibacklash nut can be adapted to the Smartrap.

I used an antibacklash mechanism on z-axis but i saw no improvement and I drop it. The weight of X axis and motor pressing down on z axis is enought to cancel any play in z axis movements.