Madmike8's Smartrap Build

Later on tonight or tomorrow I should have an X end designed for the Jhead light that removes the servo and mounts the longer Jhead light 20mm higher, restoring the full Z height to the smartrap. I'v gotten the screws (thanks!) and just picked up the glass plate today. So now all I need to do is finish up the wiring the make up a temp mount for the Z switch to reach the plate from the servo so I can print the new X end parts. Anyway, Mike, or anyone else, if your interested, I'll post back the link for the X end once I get it up on Thingiverse.

Mark

So, your getting rid of the servo for the new servo less system? I'm definitely interested in the jhead lite mount.

Glad you got the screws. They returned it first time, so I loaded it up with stamps this time lol...

thx for the compliments

Yes, one of the min idea of the smartrap is to be easy to build, reproductible without special tools ( so, most printed) and cheap, but still trying to integrate all good developments Thats' why we have fishing line , auto level , etc..

Now it's been 35 kits feeedback from beginners mostly , and also all those builds like you guys and I learned a lot from that of course. First thing was to find a new auto level because the servo system is tight to setup and you have the same complexity or even more than adjusting the bed to be leveled with screws not good !
the new system is more reliable, more simple and easier to build.

I think for that too, we will switch to belts and rack and pinion for X and Y .. we will have choice between both solutions .

Thank you for participating and posting your experience, it makes the model better each time .. that's cool

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the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Here are a few screenshots of the Jhead Light - No Servo - X End. Still have a bit more to do before I upload the CAD and .stl files. Kind of a "sneek peek"

Its a 3 piece set with the mount, arm and retainer. There is a thin plastic washer (I'm planing to recycle a piece of a milk jug) between the mount and arm. The micro switch mounts on the side with screws and is the same one used in standard Smartrap. I am split whether to adjust contact by bending metal arm on switch or by adding a grub screw... Anyone have input on this? I can always add the hole for the grub screw and it can be left out and arm bent, if one decides not to use it.

Looks very nice Mark. Very well thought out. I can't wait till I'm able to print it. I'm going to print R4C3R's Airtripper/Smartrap plates tonight.

Mark.. It's just wonderful .

I want to test it ?

I didn't update on thingiverse on the last version without servo motor because of the j-head version not compatible.

This one looks really cool. If it's good can we use it in the main project ? I find silly to design one on my side if you just did.. and in a very great way .

the only problem i see is the sources ? You know for now all the smartrap is in blender ! I want to switch to more open sources , but i really don't know what

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Do I have it right that this no-servo design effectively uses the nozzle as the probe? I have seen this concept applied to a Prusa i3 and thought of a few problems with it. If your extruder dribbles when up to temperature, it will leave little blobs on the bed. This is probably not too concerning. It could be avoided by levelling cold but then it is likely that there will be an error due to some cold plastic protruding from the nozzle.

Another possible issue with your design is that the pressure of the filament onto the bed when printing may be enough to lift the nozzle slightly. It might be necessary to spring load the nozzle down a bit.

Another way to achieve a servo-less levelling that doesn't involve probing the bed with the nozzle is like on the Kossel - using a probe that you lower into position manually before starting, and when probing is done the Z axis pushed the probe further onto the bed to activate a spring loaded retraction.

I'll be interested to see how your design works out.

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My Prusa Mendel i2 inspired Repstrap with welded steel frame: [youtu.be]
And my Smartrap derived Briefcase 3D printer: [youtu.be]

Quote
smartfriendz
Mark.. It's just wonderful .

I want to test it ?

I didn't update on thingiverse on the last version without servo motor because of the j-head version not compatible.

This one looks really cool. If it's good can we use it in the main project ? I find silly to design one on my side if you just did.. and in a very great way .

the only problem i see is the sources ? You know for now all the smartrap is in blender ! I want to switch to more open sources , but i really don't know what

Hi, and thanks for the comment. Your more than welcome to use the design. Hope to have everything double checked and posted later today. (got involved with other things and had a bit of a delay). I used FreeCAD to design the part. If you haven't seen it, it is a free (as in both speech and beer) parametric solid modeling CAx program that runs on Linux, Mac, and windows. Personally, I think FreeCAD is the perfect companion for the home 3D RepRap. There is plenty of help on the FreeCAD forum and a gaggle of videos on you tube to get you started.

Mark

Quote
n.glasson
Do I have it right that this no-servo design effectively uses the nozzle as the probe? I have seen this concept applied to a Prusa i3 and thought of a few problems with it. If your extruder dribbles when up to temperature, it will leave little blobs on the bed. This is probably not too concerning. It could be avoided by levelling cold but then it is likely that there will be an error due to some cold plastic protruding from the nozzle.

Another possible issue with your design is that the pressure of the filament onto the bed when printing may be enough to lift the nozzle slightly. It might be necessary to spring load the nozzle down a bit.

Another way to achieve a servo-less levelling that doesn't involve probing the bed with the nozzle is like on the Kossel - using a probe that you lower into position manually before starting, and when probing is done the Z axis pushed the probe further onto the bed to activate a spring loaded retraction.

I'll be interested to see how your design works out.

Here is the video from Smarffrends using the concept for the Huxley Hotend. I kind of had the same thoughts as you, but it seems that at least some concerns are unfounded. Time will tell, and is sure can't hurt to try, especially with a design such as the Smartrap. It just begs for the experimenter in you to come out and play, and one of the things I found so appealing about this little printer.

Mark

I started a new thread for the J-head mount here - [forums.reprap.org] - so I can stop hijacking Mike's thread.

Mark

thank you Mark.

I try to learn free cad , as i need to get out of blender ( i knew it very well from old work in 3d animation ) . I've found it working very well on linux , but i use mainly an imac and cannot make it work on it ? Maybe you have some infos i don't know here..
but it won't prevent me to try again

Thank you for the work. i load your models and try to learn this way too.

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Hi Madmike8!

Very nice printer. I have came to you on a little sightseeing trip, using the free time

Have anny other photos of some prints? I just love to see more Have you tried some torture test?

Kamil.

Hi Verteez,

Thanks, I haven't printed any torture test yet. I've mainly been printing parts for another Smartrap. I've also printed some parts for a Ordbot Hadron kit I started last year but never completed.

Update on my Smartrap is everything has been running pretty well. I did have an issue where I was having to reset the Z offset between prints. The captive nut on the Z axis had play vertically in it's holder. I cut down a spring from the Harbor Freight Spring assortment set to keep the nut pressed up. (I'll try to get a pic posted if people are interested.) It's been pretty stable since then. Since this is my first working 3d printer, I've had a bit of a learning curve with everything. I've been getting small 1/3 Kg spools, and had to do a spool change mid print which worked out pretty well. I found that if I paused the print moved the nozzle away to prevent damage to the print, and put a bit of a point on the start of the new spool it fed in without much trouble. My first spool of PLA printed without issue down to 175C, My second spool from the same vendor seems to like 200-205C. Any cooler and the extruder misses steps. I use Elmers stick glue on the glass to keep parts from lifting which seems to work pretty well. So lately I've been just learning the ins and outs of 3d printing hardware, software, and material. It's been a fun trip so far...

BTW the Smartrap #2 that I'm printing parts for now is going to use Mark's J-head no servo mod, Evennguyen's GT2 Belt upgrade, and (if I can get the plate printed correctly) the R4C3R's Airtripper extruder mod.

Cool

It's funny to see how the smartrap is going through the community builds and mods I didn't think about that but it's so cool .

I guess soon the standard will be with belts and geared extruder and .. what else ? we'll see what you do guys . haha

thank you .

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

I'm maybe not so sure about the geared extruder... We'll have to see. I don't know about the retract speeds for the Bowden, if they will be fast enough. Might be, and a little playing with the gearing could fix any problems that may come up. Maybe regpye can chime in on that.

I'd kind of like to try the rack & pinion mod myself and I may do the belt mod, though I am having good luck with just the line. I'm using 70 lb / 0.44 mm Spectra and maybe the heaver line is making a difference.

Mark

Mark, Your probably right about the fishing line. Too many people with good results for it to be the problem. My problems probably came from not having the right size line, and I really Really suck at tieing knots. The Belt is just easier for me to get right.

Well, I managed to get something printed tonight...

I'm posting my Marlin Configuration.h and pins.h files for those that may have a mirrored Y (front to back) axis.

Configuration.h

pins.h

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/25/2014 09:33PM by madmike8.

Quote
markstephen
I'm maybe not so sure about the geared extruder... We'll have to see. I don't know about the retract speeds for the Bowden, if they will be fast enough. Might be, and a little playing with the gearing could fix any problems that may come up. Maybe regpye can chime in on that.

I'd kind of like to try the rack & pinion mod myself and I may do the belt mod, though I am having good luck with just the line. I'm using 70 lb / 0.44 mm Spectra and maybe the heaver line is making a difference.

Mark

I am still doing some experiments with various speeds and retracts. So far the results have been good.
I have sent Serge the files of my extruder and I guess that soon he will be sharing with you all, then you can do some testing of your own.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
regpye
I am still doing some experiments with various speeds and retracts. So far the results have been good.
I have sent Serge the files of my extruder and I guess that soon he will be sharing with you all, then you can do some testing of your own.

Thanks Regpye.

The stock Smartrap extruder works pretty well. (I slowed down the infill speed a bit) but I do occasionally get missed steps, which I think is caused by varying filament size. But what's the sense of having a 3D printer if you don't print new things to try

Mike,

If you put the Y and te Z axis both in MAX position. Is your PTFE tube then long enough?

With Y maxed, I think I've had my Z at about 150mm above the bed. I will check for you tonight on what my max is.

Ok, right now. I'm at 80mm above the bed. Could go a bit higher, but my Z coupler just gave up the ghost... Doh! I might make it to 100mm with Y all the way to the front without straining the ptfe tube too much. Btw.

I cut my tube with one end resting in the hole at the extruder and the other end when Y and Z were fully extended and the tube was not stressing on any bends. Think it came out to ~300 mm.

Thx,

For some reason my ptfe tube is a bit stubborn. i'll just start small for now.

Luckily I had gotten my OrdBot running enough that I was able to print a New Z coupler for my Smartrap. I also ordered more filament!

It was my first prints with it after having it about a year. I'm using a Greg's Wade Extruder and 3mm PLA. I don't think I like 3mm filament... At least not yet...
Now that it prints, I guess I need to finish cleaning up the wiring.

This looks pretty cool New Smartrap Extruder Plate

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2014 02:49AM by madmike8.

I wanted to add this to my thread for future reference on my mirrored Y problem that was fixed.

I'm using Marlin

To Change the motor direction in Configuration.h change the
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to true
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING to false

#define INVERT_Y_DIR from true to false

Then you need to Change your Homing Direction by changing
#define Y_HOME_DIR from -1 to 1

Now if you try it, it might not home, so you need to remark (add //) to the beginning of this line
#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS

Then in pins.h under the Arduino Mega pin assignment
There are 2 places to set the Y Pins one is under #if MOTHERBOARD == 77
But we are using the RAMPS Motherboard, so we need to change the ones under the #else statement.
change
#define Y_MIN_PIN change the 14 to 15
And
#define Y_MAX_PIN change the 15 to 14

Hopefully this fixes your Y Mirrored issues...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2014 09:10PM by madmike8.

Hi Mike, I'v come to the conclusion that it is the Y that is reversed on my unit as well. Following your directions above, when I comment out - #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS - Y will not move at all. Leaving it as is, I have to then switch Y motor connections to get it moving in the right direction for the switch to work, but hitting home causes it to move away from the switch. Something is missing?

Mark

Backup your marlin then use my config.h and pin.h from above. Change to match your steppers and such.

Quote
madmike8
Backup your marlin then use my config.h and pin.h from above. Change to match your steppers and such.

Thanks Mike, that one worked! Don't know what was going on but replaced the two files with yours and then set Configure.h up for the bed probing, full graphics LCD, soft limits, and auto home location (X_MAX/2 Y_MAX/1.5 - keeps it from getting leverage on the glass/Y mount. It was X that wanted to run in reverse, but flipping the motor connections fixed it right up. X0 Y0 is now in the lower left corner where it belongs. Now to give it a spin.

Thanks again! Very much appreciated!

Mark