Verteez Smartrap build

Hi all,
Finally, I have decided to build my first printer, and I have chosen the Smartrap. At the start, I want to say sorry for my English. Im not using it very often, so I will probably make some mistakes.

As my goal, it was to build this little piece of art as much cheap as I can. In my opinion, I was close to that and everything closed in range of 250 USD. I should mention that I live in Poland, so the prices for me are a bit diffrent after currency conversion. Annyway, its still good price.

The parts were picked moustly in my country, because of the price. Only the printed parts, ramps and hotend came from abroad. Everything is exactly like in the BOM that can be found on github. The only diffrence is the power supply, because im planing to add a MK2a heated bed (it's just been shiped to me) so i used a 18amp PC power supply. I still havent received my J-head, so I can't start printing. It make me sad that in May I won't have much time for this, because of my maturity exams after ending the high school. Well, will see how it's going to be.

The building was nice, and easy. The only problem I got was with the tight ABS parts from MakerCoast. I had to file off a bit the holes for rods. And the X axis bearings were falling off their place, so i made them stiff in MacGyver way. I used some cardboard to hold them tight, so far, so good Printing with Repetier Host, Cura, or from SD card works well.

For now, I have two problems that I can't handle:
-First is the problem with auto homing(used from lcd menu). After auto home (check only one point on the bed, and I dont't know why), the head starts the print too low. Happily, i still dont have the hotend, so nothing hitted the glass. And I don't know what to do. Should I make the Z endstop arm longer, or change something in the software?
- The second one is with the auto bed leveling. I just can't figure out how to turn it on. Anny help? Auto homing try only one point on the bed(used from the lcd display) , and if using Cura, the leveling bed wizard only move the head and use the servo only once. But nothing looks like the bed leveling from youtube videos.

I hope that someone can help me with this, or I will somehow menage to do it propetly.

Photos of the printer are on Thingiverse. Sorry for this, but they are too big to post here, and I can't change them.
HERE --> Photos of Verteez printer
and link to wideo with auto homing is here --> auto homing

I will post more soon.

Hi there verteez.

To answer your first question, the distance is set with Z offset. To figure out what this is, run the auto home. Once it has run go to prepare > move axis > move 0.1 mm > move Z and with a piece of paper used as a feeler gauge, move the Z down until the tip of the hot end grabs the paper. Take note of the height the head was before you started to move it down, (I think the default is 7 mm), and the height of where it is when it grabs the paper. Subtract the starting distance from the ending distance and enter that number into Control > Motion > Z Offset.

Your second problem is the auto bed level routine is not run until the beginning of the Gcode. In your slicer program, you should have a place for start Gcode. You need to place a G29 in there to tell the firmware to go the auto level. Here is what my start Gcode looks like. -

G21             ; metric is good!
G90             ; absolute positioning
T0              ; select new extruder
G28             ; go home
G29             ; auto bed level
G92 E0          ; set extruder home
M104 S195.0     ; set temperature to 195.0
G1 X20 Y20 F500 ; move away from 0.0, to use the same reset for each layer

Nice looking build. The Smartrap looks good in blue. I am using the full graphics LCD but I think the menus are about the same. Make sure your strings are real tight and you will probably need to adjust your steps per mm. (that's in control > Motion too). To figure out what that is -

Pi * (dia of shaft + dia of string) = TotalDia

Steps per revolution * microstep / TotalDia = Step per mm

For me, having a 5 mm shaft and 0.44 mm string and 200 steps per revolution with 1/16 microstepping the math is -

3.1415*(5+0.44)=17.08976

200*16/17.08976=187.246631901 or 187.24 as the firmware only goes 2 places to the right.

Hope this helps.

Mark

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 04/19/2014 10:00AM by markstephen.

Welcome to the builder family
Whas it you I recommended the smartrap to on the reprap group on facebook

Looks good Vertez.

Thanks Mark, you helped me a lot! Now Im only waiting for the hot end, and will post some photos, and wideo.

The strings are real tight, sometimes to much and they just break easily after moment of inattention. Happily, I have lot of the fishing line xD
I will ajust the steps per mm tomorrow, probably. My mom heate me for giving so much attention to this thing and the noises, but what to do, it's my new love

Oh, I almost forgot. Im thinking about changing the Z axis shaft coupler to some aluminum, because mine started to crack. And is your extruder motor getting really hot?

Kamil.

Thanks Madmike8 for kind words!

Also, thanks for the welcome Cliff Mellangård Unfortunatelly, I'm not sure about this. Im here, because the Smartfriendz told me about this forum. And it's far more easy, and quicker with the answers than bothering them on facebook.

Mark, I have made the microsteps today, but I have problem with them.

My motors are 48mm, so I have picked them in Marlin. After doing the math, like you said:
I'm having a 5 mm shaft and 0.30mm string, and 200 steps per revolution. If I not mistaken the result is 192,19 for me, but here's where the problem starts.
In the marlin, after changing the motor to 48mm, the control-motion shows the steps like they were with the 40mm motors, even after setting up the 40mm motor setting the same like for 48mm. Still after checking in the control-motion, nothing change. I still get the 99,00 value for the X and Y, 4000 for Z and 80 for extruder.


// default settings - smartrap: uses define on top for diferent motors config
#ifdef motors09
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {394,394,7400,170} // smartrap : version 0.9 deg. 1/16 {382,382,7400,170}
#endif
#ifdef motors1848
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {194,194,4000,85} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85}
#endif
#ifdef motors1840
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {99,99,4000,80} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85} robotdigg.shaft adaptor,fishline big
#endif


Anny idea?

Hi,

Very nice build Verteez, congrats

I hope you could manage all problems ? I see with the help of the county, you get always answers .. as usual here thx to all.

you must have really tight fishing lines if the break. maybe a little too much ? hehe.

The zcouler need to be changed .. i'm working on it. It is indeed breaking after a few use . And with new motors 40mm it is also interfering with the bowden cable.. So i'm looking for the good one now ( maybe more simple ? there's 4 M3 x10 + 4 nuts actually.) .

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Quote
verteez
Mark, I have made the microsteps today, but I have problem with them.

My motors are 48mm, so I have picked them in Marlin. After doing the math, like you said:
I'm having a 5 mm shaft and 0.30mm string, and 200 steps per revolution. If I not mistaken the result is 192,19 for me, but here's where the problem starts.
In the marlin, after changing the motor to 48mm, the control-motion shows the steps like they were with the 40mm motors, even after setting up the 40mm motor setting the same like for 48mm. Still after checking in the control-motion, nothing change. I still get the 99,00 value for the X and Y, 4000 for Z and 80 for extruder.


// default settings - smartrap: uses define on top for diferent motors config
#ifdef motors09
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {394,394,7400,170} // smartrap : version 0.9 deg. 1/16 {382,382,7400,170}
#endif
#ifdef motors1848
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {194,194,4000,85} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85}
#endif
#ifdef motors1840
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {99,99,4000,80} // smartrap : version 1.8degv{194,194,4000,85} robotdigg.shaft adaptor,fishline big
#endif


Anny idea?

Yea, your math looks good. As long as your controller is set up for 1/16 microstepping that part is OK. Those defaults in Configuration.h file are just that, a number entered so there is a number there, it can't be blank. If your changing the numbers in Configuration.h you will need to change the default line and recompile/upload to your Arduino. If your changing them through your LCD display, once you have changed the values for X and Y, you have to go up a level and tell it to "Store memory" in your LCD menu, so the new values get written and saved on the Arduino.

Your line really should not be breaking. What line are you using? I'm using 70 lb test Spectra, braided line. Even the 50 lb stuff should break parts before it breaks.

Mark

Hi Smartfriendz,
Yes, thanks to big help from Mark I have menaged all the problems

My bad, the fishing line isn't actually breaking. The knots in the loops are just slipping of, and the line is not holded. Maybe I just bind them wrong? Now I have binded them better, so nothing happend. But anny hint with binding them would be nice.

The z coupler itself is fine, in my case it must be very tight. Unfortunatelly, the Z axis rod while spinning, drills the coupler inside. That's why it breaks, and it has to be watched carefully while tightening.
I have seen somewhere that someone used rubber hose, like the ones for fuel and just tightened it more with some metal tie, or even not.

Thanks Mark! Now it all fine

The fishing line I use is to 16kg (the google says it around 35lb). If it will be to much trouble durning the prints I will probably buy better one, because I havent found anny good near me.

Nice build Verteez!

I've done some research on knots Using the right knot (that doesn't slip) seems to be the key. And there ar MANY knot's to choose from.

I wonder if there are fishermen around who can give us some advice. Now, we are not pulling a shark out of the ocean, but still it would be nice to learn (or create?) a reprap knot.

Aquarium air tube with an inner diameter of 4mm works nice as a shaft coupler on a 5mm shaft to 5mm rod end coupling. Though when your rod end is thicker then the motor shaft then this is probably not ideal.

Thanks BackEMF, i will use some of this knots.

The aquarium air tube will be perfect for me. Mine motor shaft and rod are ideal 5mm. Probably will try this soon, because the coupler is cracking more and more.

Annyone knows some way to make the Z axis a bit more quiet? It's just freaking loud, and I dont know why. Sometimes more, sometimes less xD

Vert, someone suggested to me on a forum about using a tiny bit of vaseline on the Z axis threaded rods of my Hadron build. So, I put a bit on Smartrap too. Seems to work pretty well. I think that it helps with the coupler issue too since there is less friction trying to twist the rod in the coupler.

I think it was BackEMF that suggested the Perfection Loop knot to me. It's in the link he provided. I suck at tieing knots in fishing line too. (but manage quite well with shoe laces ) I had already bought the parts for the GT2 conversion at the time though.

I think your going to be pretty happy with the Smartrap when you get the kinks worked out.

All rods should be greased with a silicon based grease according to how much you print.
Then do I not mean overdoing it but small bits here and there so the lm8uu bearings gets it and the nut for the z axis.
Then you get silent and smooth moving prints.
It where a nice lady from Australia that tipped me about it on the facebook reprap group.

Some photo of printer on shelf, and filament. Now everything just wait for the hotend..it's been 13 days in transit, and still nothing :<

Thanks Folks with the help. I will try the silicone based grease (I got some left from speedcubing), and try to change the knots.

Looks nice and keep in mind that you always keep your pla in airtight bags.
Dust and moist that gets on your pla will destroy your prints later on or give bad results.
I buy a expensive pla from the uk that have silica gel mixed in to the pla that seams to work ok without having it in airtight bags as soon as I don't print etc.

But this seams to be differrent from wath person you ask and everyone have suggestions on how it should be done
So I go for the safe method and use airtight bags when I can

Thanks Cliff for your advice, I will remember about this
For now everything is lying packed very tight with packing film. I will buy some airtight bags tomorrow.

I have forgotten to write that the blue filament is ABS(2kg) I have won the auction really cheap, so it's just waiting for the hotbed upgrade The rest is PLA, expect the black piece which is ninjaflex, added as a gift from the shop-nice guys

Mike, can you help me? Where I can find what's the microstepping of my controler? Because I fink that I have to do math again. The X axis starts the print in the middle of glass, and after some time its mowing toward front. I stopped when it reached the end of the bed. So I think my steps per mm should be smaller xD

So, I have made the math once again, this time with 1/8 microstepping- it's fine now.

Unfortunatelly, my Z axis coupler died, so I replaced him with aquarium air tube. It's working, and don't look like need to be changed
Also, durning fixing the Z axis I have grased the bearings, and the Z nut. Whats more, I added some rubber pads to the base, and I can't belive how silent the Smartrap become! It's just amazing, my PC works with the same noise level

Below photo of dead coupler.

Congrats Verteez!

Sounds really good verteez. Congrats for your build it seems to be a very nice one !

I've got same problem with the zcouler.. broke some already

Strangely i have hard time to find the right aquarium tube to even try .. I think when i try ..it will ends up in smartfriendz kits I need to replace the coupler anyway as we need space there with new 40mm motors and shorter shaft.

Thx.

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Serge,

I received the RAW kit today. :-) My compliments how you managed to produce this many kits already.

The aquarium tube's inner diameter should be 4mm. With needlenose pliers you eventually can stretch the tube a bit.

It might be an idea to let the PTFE tube exit on the other side?
Personally i whouldn't mind if the extruder would be a seperate unit instead of integrated in the base.

BlackEMF,

Nice to hear that you received the Kit I have a terrible feeling inside that I did not buy my printer from Serge like others. I really wanted to help his project, but the euro is for me more than five times more expensive than my national currency ; _ ; mayby oter time will try to.
Annyway, good luck with the kit

The 4mm aquarium tube, like you said, will be ideal. It's good to add two plastic cable ties, and it's sitting really tight.

With the PTFE tube, how about making it longer and leading the other way? Or you can mirror the parts with Y, but you will have to probably mirror:
end Y front part, base x, base plate.

There is a version with Airtripper extruder on Thingiverse, it's a nice change than original one.

Serge,

Have you tried to look in some shop with car parts? They always have a lot tubes with diffrent diameters to choose. Ask for motor fuel line, or just some rubber one It's good idea. Really simple and took less place thank the z coupler

Why such change to 40mm motors?
Oh, and can you tell me what's for the tongue part? I haven't used it, but Im just curious.

And thanks! Yes, it's indeed a nice one

Verteez, I think the tongue that your talking about is the lock for the Bowden tube on the extruder side. It locks the brass fitting that comes with the Huxley hotend kit in place on the extruder side. You can see it in the build videos when Serge is inserting the tube.

BackEMF, I think your going to enjoy your Smartrap build.

I don't know if you guys have seen, but there's been published the J-head lite v2, YAY! Im just a bit messed up now that I havent bought this hot end.
Will see when my Jhead arrive, if will be bad, then I will change it.

Verteez, I bought one of the Version 2's Waiting on it's arrival now...