Verteez Smartrap build

Ok, I know why it's not working, but I don't know how to fix it.

While the nozzle do the probing, it's raised before about 5, like it's in Marlin

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 5    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 5  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS_BEFORE_RETRACT  2 // smartrap : this happend just after probing point and before servo comes back ( to prevent servo to tap on the bed)

So when the probing starts, what I can see in Repetier host as the probing data is:

Bed x: 5.00 y: 8.00 z: 4.14 -here the bed is lower at the back
Bed x: 110.00 y: 8.00 z: 2.79 -here the bed is higer at the front
Bed x: 110.00 y: 128.00 z: 2.77 -here the bed is higer at the front
Bed x: 5.00 y: 128.00 z: 4.23 - here the bed is lower at the back

So I can assume that the software is calculating the level of the bed by measuring the difference in distnace of the moved up nozzle(at the beggining the #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 5 command in Marlin) to the point when the Z microswitch will be triggered by touching on bed.
So I assume that, where the nozzle have bigger gap to the bed(where bed is lower) from the lifted position, then the nozzle is moved here up while printing, because software think that the bed is here higer. That's why where the nozzle should be lifted because the bed is really higer, the nozzle is actually lowered because the gap betwen bed and lofted position of nozzle is lower and software think the bed is here low.

So maybe that's why de nozzle height is inverted. But I don't know how to fix it..

My motors and switches are connected fine. So it's software issue.

Anny idea?
Kamil

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2014 09:52AM by verteez.

Quote
verteez
Ok, I know why it's not working, but I don't know how to fix it.

While the nozzle do the probing, it's raised before about 5, like it's in Marlin

  #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 5    //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 5  //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points
  #define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS_BEFORE_RETRACT  2 // smartrap : this happend just after probing point and before servo comes back ( to prevent servo to tap on the bed)

So when the probing starts, what I can see in Repetier host as the probing data is:

Bed x: 5.00 y: 8.00 z: 4.14 -here the bed is lower at the back
Bed x: 110.00 y: 8.00 z: 2.79 -here the bed is higer at the front
Bed x: 110.00 y: 128.00 z: 2.77 -here the bed is higer at the front
Bed x: 5.00 y: 128.00 z: 4.23 - here the bed is lower at the back

So I can assume that the software is calculating the level of the bed by measuring the difference in distnace of the moved up nozzle(at the beggining the #define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 5 command in Marlin) to the point when the Z microswitch will be triggered by touching on bed.
So I assume that, where the nozzle have bigger gap to the bed(where bed is lower) from the lifted position, then the nozzle is moved here up while printing, because software think that the bed is here higer. That's why where the nozzle should be lifted because the bed is really higer, the nozzle is actually lowered because the gap betwen bed and lofted position of nozzle is lower and software think the bed is here low.

So maybe that's why de nozzle height is inverted. But I don't know how to fix it..

My motors and switches are connected fine. So it's software issue.

Anny idea?
Kamil

The settings cause the firmware to lift the nozzle to start with 5mm above the bed so that before probing the nozzle doesn't crash into the bed or drag along the bed while getting into probing position.
Have you got your offset set correctly? Are you using positive or minus for the offset?
I will be away in the city today, so I wont be back until very late or even tomorrow (800Km to drive) Try and work it out by checking your offset

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
verteez
All my limit switches while not home are oppened, should they be closed?

So, the default is NC (Normally Closed)

But if you use NO (Normally Open) and invert the limit switches in software then it should work the same.

The extra safety when using NC is that in case you break a wire that also 'triggers' the endstop. For printers this is not such a big deal , though when milling this is a nice extra safety feature.

Ok, I will try this leater Regpye, when I will find my solder.

I have uploaded your Marlin code, now it's working somehow. And I have done the G29 N 4 V 2 E T, below are the results

13:40:21.034 : Roxy's Enhanced G29 Auto_Bed_Leveling Code V1.01:
13:41:32.754 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.01 b: 0.00 d: 2.20
13:41:32.759 : Correct +.14 with one clockwise turn.
13:41:32.759 : 
13:41:32.762 : Bed Height Topography:
13:41:32.762 : +0.66777 +0.70143 +0.81393
13:41:32.767 : +0.01675 --0.02152 +0.15830
13:41:32.771 : --0.82468 --0.78549 --0.72648
13:41:32.771 : 
13:41:32.771 : planeNormal x: 0.01 y: -0.00 z: 1.00
13:41:32.775 : 
13:41:32.775 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
13:41:32.779 : 1.00 0.00 -0.01
13:41:32.779 : 0.00 1.00 0.00
13:41:32.779 : 0.01 -0.00 1.00
13:41:36.841 : ok
13:41:36.842 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-4.28

I belive that the bed level correction matrix shouldn't show me some - numbers?
Is it all correct, or it tells something about my problem?

_______________________________________________________________________
I have just runned the function once again but I have done like Regpye said here

Quote
Pull Vector_3.cpp into your editor. Search for: void matrix_3x3::debug(char* title) This will be about 180 lines from the start of the file.
Go down about 9 lines and change the line to be: SERIAL_PROTOCOL_F(matrix[count],6); (And save the file!)
That will print the numbers of the matrix with a higher precision.

here are the results once again:

13:56:06.215 : Roxy's Enhanced G29 Auto_Bed_Leveling Code V1.01:
13:57:18.333 : Eqn coefficients: a: -0.02 b: 0.00 d: 0.45
13:57:18.333 : Correct +.14 with one clockwise turn.
13:57:18.336 : 
13:57:18.337 : Bed Height Topography:
13:57:18.341 : +0.70998 +0.75932 +0.84922
13:57:18.341 : +0.02807 +0.03822 +0.11936
13:57:18.345 : --0.95768 --0.67643 --0.87007
13:57:18.345 : 
13:57:18.349 : planeNormal x: 0.02 y: -0.00 z: 1.00
13:57:18.349 : 
13:57:18.355 : Bed Level Correction Matrix:
13:57:18.359 : 0.999880 0.000000 -0.015456
13:57:18.359 : 0.000000 1.000000 0.000884
13:57:18.367 : 0.015456 -0.000884 0.999880
13:57:22.419 : ok
13:57:22.419 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:-6.24

Kamil.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/29/2014 08:08AM by verteez.

Okey, I have found this thread and they ideas..

Done exactly like there, but nothing changed, still not working like should :<
I havent only changed vector_3 planeNormal = vector_3::cross(xPositive, yPositive).get_normal();, because I couldn't find it.

So, anny idea how to fix this problem?

Quote
verteez
Okey, I have found this thread and they ideas..

Done exactly like there, but nothing changed, still not working like should :<
I havent only changed vector_3 planeNormal = vector_3::cross(xPositive, yPositive).get_normal();, because I couldn't find it.

So, anny idea how to fix this problem?

That is in Marlin_main.ccp file
line 895
I can't help you at present, I am not well and can't think straight. Guess I have been having too many late nights.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/31/2014 06:22AM by regpye.

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
regpye

Quote
verteez
Okey, I have found this thread and they ideas..

Done exactly like there, but nothing changed, still not working like should :<
I havent only changed vector_3 planeNormal = vector_3::cross(xPositive, yPositive).get_normal();, because I couldn't find it.

So, anny idea how to fix this problem?

That is in Marlin_main.ccp file
line 895
I can't help you at present, I am not well and can't think straight. Guess I have been having too many late nights.

At line 895 I have only something like this

#ifdef ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING
#ifdef AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID
static void set_bed_level_equation_lsq(double *plane_equation_coefficients)
{
    vector_3 planeNormal = vector_3(-plane_equation_coefficients[0], -plane_equation_coefficients[1], 1);
    planeNormal.debug("planeNormal");
    plan_bed_level_matrix = matrix_3x3::create_look_at(planeNormal);
    //bedLevel.debug("bedLevel");

    //plan_bed_level_matrix.debug("bed level before");
    //vector_3 uncorrected_position = plan_get_position_mm();
    //uncorrected_position.debug("position before");

    vector_3 corrected_position = plan_get_position();
//    corrected_position.debug("position after");
    current_position[X_AXIS] = corrected_position.x;
    current_position[Y_AXIS] = corrected_position.y;
    current_position[Z_AXIS] = corrected_position.z;

    // put the bed at 0 so we don't go below it.
    current_position[Z_AXIS] = zprobe_zoffset; // in the lsq we reach here after raising the extruder due to the loop structure

    plan_set_position(current_position[X_AXIS], current_position[Y_AXIS], current_position[Z_AXIS], current_position[E_AXIS]);
}

Ok, Im just getting more and more pissed off with all of this..

I was getting close to fix this weird problem with bed leveling....but bam!
My extruder stopped working. What's worse, the motor itself is fine, also wires, stepstick and software. So what? The board just fuc*ed up.

Grrrr, and I don't know how to fix this. I have tried to change from E0 to E1, but still no reaction.

So, for now Im out of working printer, and also dont have money for new ramps board.

Eh, bad ass life.

If you have been messing around in Marlin, you might want to try loading the default Marlin Firmware and see if it will come back to life.

I'v had some problems of my own this weekend, all surrounding the fact that my current was way to high on my extruder stepper and it was getting way to hot. On the up side, I now have a new adjustable extruder that is working better than ever and my stepper is now running cool again.

Mark

Quote
markstephen
If you have been messing around in Marlin, you might want to try loading the default Marlin Firmware and see if it will come back to life.

I'v had some problems of my own this weekend, all surrounding the fact that my current was way to high on my extruder stepper and it was getting way to hot. On the up side, I now have a new adjustable extruder that is working better than ever and my stepper is now running cool again.

Mark

Yes, I have seen your extruder and wanted to print it, but without functional motor I won't make it.
I will try to load the default Marlin, but Im affraid that it wont help. Well, will see what will happend.

My current is just a bit to high, but I will change it with mounting new extruder. I was hoping to print somehow untill the parcel from RegPye with his geared extruder will arrrve, but I was wrong.

If nothing will revive my extruder, then I will think about some soldering, or buying new one.

Kamil.

Well, I killed the stepper on my extruder. I was experimenting with dropping microsteping down to gain more torque. I thought I had killed the driver, but after I replaced it I realized it was the stepper. So, you've tried moving around the stepper and drivers to confirm both are ok? Are the X,Y,Z steppers working? Have you tried swapping both to a known working axis?

Quote
madmike8
Well, I killed the stepper on my extruder. I was experimenting with dropping microsteping down to gain more torque. I thought I had killed the driver, but after I replaced it I realized it was the stepper. So, you've tried moving around the stepper and drivers to confirm both are ok? Are the X,Y,Z steppers working? Have you tried swapping both to a known working axis?

Hi Madmike8,

Yes, I have swaped the steppers, the motors, connected extruder to other axis, used RH and lcd menu. Everything (my motors, steppers, wires) works fine, only the E socket on Ramps seems to be dead somehow..

I will take my multimeter and check the ramps, only using eye I can't see anny damaged or burned trace, or element.
But tomorrow, now im too tired.

Kamil.

I hear you. I've also had a lot of frustrations with my build (broken stepper driver, arduino regulator, motor twitching, etc.) But a little bit more tinkering saved me some from buying new parts.

When I had problems with my motors and ran out of options, I just uploaded the RAMPS1.4 test code. Just make sure to disconnect fishing lines and z coupling. This test code will spin your motors back and forth. If all of them are working, your board should still be okay. Maybe I got lucky and after this test, I uploaded the firmware again and the problems disappeard.

Hang in there and don't give up!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2014 12:04AM by MelT.

Ok, with ramps nothing new, I will sit and work on them this evening.

For now the parcel from RegPye has arrived! I will post photos leater, because there's too much of them.

What's so far.
I really like the design of the X axis for the belts. It's just goergous, also the new hotend.
After assembling the parts I have noticed the minimal, about 3mm, wobble of the hot end when I touch it with my hand. I think that it won't interhere to the printing itself. Also, I don't know why, but my Z axis movement is now heavy, and needs more power, even from my hands to move the X axis. Well, it might be because of old Y axis, so the rods may be a milimeter or two tighter then in Repye design.
What's the most noticable change is the lengh of the new hotend. I have lost around 5.5 cm from the maximum build height. For now it's not so terrible, as long as I wont print anny tall things. But I will probably when the printer will be working.
The last thing that I have noticed are the wires. There's few of them, so I think that I will left the bowden cable to be alone and light when printing. I will thing how to left them leater.

And for the end, another bad news. I have woke up today and my bed was cracked.. 0.o I don't know what happend, but now i must find a new glass, or mount somehow the MK2b heated bed.

Kamil

Some big news

I was planning to post something new two days ago..but I got parties every night and Im like zombie next morning xD
Now Im pretty alive, so I can post what's new.

I have promissed to post some photos, so here you go.















As you can see on the last two photos, I have left the filament tube alone and free while printing. Now all my wires are iside that white tube that I have took from some old washing machine I must admit that it's pretty nice idea.

Also I have fixed my Ramps! I have disconnected them from arduino, checked them with multimeter, changed my burned D1 diode. After all of this I have loaded the test code, and it was alive!

I have also connected the Heated Bed, but still not screwed it to the Y axis. I dont have annything that's not bending after assembilng to the axis and bed
I think that I will try to use tomorrow some wood strips, or just buy aluminium plate.

I can't wait to start testing this RegPye's amazing hotend. After heating it to something about 240C, the middle metal piece was barely hot (touched with finger)
It will be some good fun

Kamil.

I am glad that you found only a diode problem with the RAMPS, that is really good news.
Any idea what caused it to go? Maybe a short somewhere?

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
regpye
I am glad that you found only a diode problem with the RAMPS, that is really good news.
Any idea what caused it to go? Maybe a short somewhere?

Im glad too. I still don't know how the extruder motor was fixed, but maybe because of fixing weird looking solder joins on ramps helped
Annyway, it's working! Now only do the bed and Im back in printing

Well, the diode might burned because of a short caused by my fault..I was adjusting the motor drivers, and my screwdriver(metal one) slipped of the driver and touched something. Maybe it was then, but I was still able to print while connected to pc USB port.

Today Im going to look for some new glass, or HB mount.

Funny things
Kamil

Nice progress Kamil!

Hi guys!
I have soo many things to write about, but I just don't have time, and can't now..I will try to post everything nice and well writed this evening, or next day.

For now I present to you timelapse of printig Yoda from thingiverse. Overal it came out really good. I will add some details and photos also leater.
Here is the video. I hope you will like it

Kamil.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/14/2014 07:23AM by verteez.

If your original E0 driver on ramsp died, you can use the spare E1 instead in adv.h. Had to do the same thing with a i2 but with z instead of E.

Well, I should post something new

I have menaged to upgrade my Y axis and the whole base to Smartrap MC3 remix, and Im pretty happy of it
Also I have added second fan for cooling my prints, and it pretty nice idea, but I need some fan duct. But I don't know how to create one.. Eh

Unfortunatelly only one thing is incorrect. My layers are getting some adhesion from time to time, due to bigger height of print. Every time at the same heigt. Whats causing this?
May it be because of not smoothe Z axis movements?

Another pretty nice info is that I have just received my 500mm rods! Yea, it will be a big one The print area should be something around 25/25/25cm
If it wont work I will just cut the rods down a bit.

Unfortunatelly I need some help. Now with soo long Z axis rods the whole X axis is wobbling a lot..really lot :< I will post video when it will be uploaded to youtube. Anny idea how to prevent this?

Below some pics.

New printed parts


Assembled



Added small light, really good thing (made of old bike light)


Light works greate


Just received the rods, let's get bigger!




Anny ideas and objections?

To do: fix the layer adhesion, buy new belts, get bigger glass, fix the Z and X wobbling, stabilize the whole printer

Kamil.

I cant see your pictures Verteez. Please re-upload.
Ah, sorted. The links work.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/17/2014 06:18PM by mikefiatx19.

If you print a top for your Z rods, it will hold them Steadier. If you add a metal bracket, like an aluminium strap top the top bracket, you can tie that bracket to the base plate and stop almost all movement.
If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan?

Quote
verteez
Well, I should post something new

I have menaged to upgrade my Y axis and the whole base to Smartrap MC3 remix, and Im pretty happy of it
Also I have added second fan for cooling my prints, and it pretty nice idea, but I need some fan duct. But I don't know how to create one.. Eh

Unfortunatelly only one thing is incorrect. My layers are getting some adhesion from time to time, due to bigger height of print. Every time at the same heigt. Whats causing this?
May it be because of not smoothe Z axis movements?

Another pretty nice info is that I have just received my 500mm rods! Yea, it will be a big one The print area should be something around 25/25/25cm
If it wont work I will just cut the rods down a bit.

Unfortunatelly I need some help. Now with soo long Z axis rods the whole X axis is wobbling a lot..really lot :< I will post video when it will be uploaded to youtube. Anny idea how to prevent this?

Below some pics.

New printed parts

Assembled

2rqyeqp.jpg

Added small light, really good thing (made of old bike light)

Light works greate

Just received the rods, let's get bigger!

Anny ideas and objections?

To do: fix the layer adhesion, buy new belts, get bigger glass, fix the Z and X wobbling, stabilize the whole printer

Kamil.

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I was planing to cut some wood strip and use it to hold together the rods and connect it with base using M8 rods that I have bought today.
I will do it at the morning, because now it's late night here. I hope that it will work..

My fan is 40mm, I was using it before with my Jhead lite.
I wast thinking about mouting it somewhere around the hotend, or on its arm. The localisation it's not important as long as it will blow some air at tip of the nozzle.
Right now it's attached to the lower hole of your small fan. It' a a good place, but there's not much space for the duct.
I was really thinking about some nice designs that I have seen on thingiverse. They were some kind of rings surrounding the nozzle, but anny working will be a blessing.

Also, RegPye, can you tell my how to get ride of lifting corners? I was trying to print pinion for the smartrap, but it was getting ugly. I was trying from 0.14mm to 0.18mm layer height, because now I was playing a bit with the 0.3mm nozzle from you, temp 185, 200, 202, 205, 210C and every time the overal print is good, but the back of the pinion(while watching at the front of the printer) has the corners lifted up, ugly and messed
I can't print it right. Now it's to dark to post a photo, I will add it around morning.

Also, anny Idea how to fix the layers of the prints? I was trying to change my filament flow, the power and steps, but it's still sometimes extrude to less :< Or is it because of the Z axis power, or steps?

Im very happy that I have menaged to get ride of my leveling problems! Im using the 3 point probe method, because it's working, more stable Y axis, and changed the:

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 1 // smartrap: special quantic error mesurement from porte a faux design (see marlin.cpp)

And it's working like a charm ^^
Oh, and the hotend stopped leaking. I have just reasembled it twice, and it has worked

Kamil.

Quote
regpye
If you print a top for your Z rods, it will hold them Steadier. If you add a metal bracket, like an aluminium strap top the top bracket, you can tie that bracket to the base plate and stop almost all movement.
If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan?

Quote
verteez
Well, I should post something new

I have menaged to upgrade my Y axis and the whole base to Smartrap MC3 remix, and Im pretty happy of it
Also I have added second fan for cooling my prints, and it pretty nice idea, but I need some fan duct. But I don't know how to create one.. Eh

Unfortunatelly only one thing is incorrect. My layers are getting some adhesion from time to time, due to bigger height of print. Every time at the same heigt. Whats causing this?
May it be because of not smoothe Z axis movements?

Another pretty nice info is that I have just received my 500mm rods! Yea, it will be a big one The print area should be something around 25/25/25cm
If it wont work I will just cut the rods down a bit.

Unfortunatelly I need some help. Now with soo long Z axis rods the whole X axis is wobbling a lot..really lot :< I will post video when it will be uploaded to youtube. Anny idea how to prevent this?

Below some pics.

New printed parts

Assembled

2rqyeqp.jpg

Added small light, really good thing (made of old bike light)

Light works greate

Just received the rods, let's get bigger!

Anny ideas and objections?

To do: fix the layer adhesion, buy new belts, get bigger glass, fix the Z and X wobbling, stabilize the whole printer

Kamil.

If you can add a heated bed the lifting problem can be solved easy with the very wide prints. Just use sugar on the heated bed and after printing, let the print cool down, because you wont be able to get it off while hot. When cool it will fall off by itself.
Mix a little sugar with some hot water so that it is a thick syrup and rub over the glass plate, heat it up to temp until the sugar has dried and then make your print.
You don't need much sugar, and you can use it over and over again.

I have an idea for the 40mm fan and will work on that for you during the day.I am still off work, so I can find a bit of time.

The leak was caused through the threaded section having moved upwards? You did what I told you to fix it?

Quote
verteez
I was planing to cut some wood strip and use it to hold together the rods and connect it with base using M8 rods that I have bought today.
I will do it at the morning, because now it's late night here. I hope that it will work..

My fan is 40mm, I was using it before with my Jhead lite.
I wast thinking about mouting it somewhere around the hotend, or on its arm. The localisation it's not important as long as it will blow some air at tip of the nozzle.
Right now it's attached to the lower hole of your small fan. It' a a good place, but there's not much space for the duct.
I was really thinking about some nice designs that I have seen on thingiverse. They were some kind of rings surrounding the nozzle, but anny working will be a blessing.

Also, RegPye, can you tell my how to get ride of lifting corners? I was trying to print pinion for the smartrap, but it was getting ugly. I was trying from 0.14mm to 0.18mm layer height, because now I was playing a bit with the 0.3mm nozzle from you, temp 185, 200, 202, 205, 210C and every time the overal print is good, but the back of the pinion(while watching at the front of the printer) has the corners lifted up, ugly and messed
I can't print it right. Now it's to dark to post a photo, I will add it around morning.

Also, anny Idea how to fix the layers of the prints? I was trying to change my filament flow, the power and steps, but it's still sometimes extrude to less :< Or is it because of the Z axis power, or steps?

Im very happy that I have menaged to get ride of my leveling problems! Im using the 3 point probe method, because it's working, more stable Y axis, and changed the:

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 1 // smartrap: special quantic error mesurement from porte a faux design (see marlin.cpp)

And it's working like a charm ^^
Oh, and the hotend stopped leaking. I have just reasembled it twice, and it has worked

Kamil.

Quote
regpye
If you print a top for your Z rods, it will hold them Steadier. If you add a metal bracket, like an aluminium strap top the top bracket, you can tie that bracket to the base plate and stop almost all movement.
If you give me some details about the fan you want to use, I can make you an STL file for printing the cowel. Where did you want to mount the fan?

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I made a couple of parts for your 40mm fan. Not tried them out but I am sure they will do the trick.
It is in two parts, one to mount the fan and the other to direct the air flow.
The fan mount will attach to the 30mm fan housing for the Genie hotend, you should position it where it fits best and super glue it in place.
The air flow director is angled and reduced at the end to concentrate the air pressure.

Hope you can use these.

Complete two parts together

Air flow directer

Fan base mount

---

[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
verteez

Also, RegPye, can you tell my how to get ride of lifting corners? I was trying to print pinion for the smartrap, but it was getting ugly. I was trying from 0.14mm to 0.18mm layer height, because now I was playing a bit with the 0.3mm nozzle from you, temp 185, 200, 202, 205, 210C and every time the overal print is good, but the back of the pinion(while watching at the front of the printer) has the corners lifted up, ugly and messed
I can't print it right. Now it's to dark to post a photo, I will add it around morning.

[/quote][/quote]

Hi Verteez,
On the bare cold glass printing PLA I use a cheap gluestick branded with the name Sorbo from Dirx drogist (Netherlands), 2 of them cost 3 Euro.
It only works on days that the temp is below 22 degrees Celcius or the glue gets soft and doesn't work any more. This is rare in the Netherlands.
Maybe you could try one.
Mike

Small update
I wanted to post this two days ago, but my cousin was getting maried, so I wasn't able to use forum

I have stabilised my Z rods using wood plate connected with two M8 rods to the base plate. Thanks to this my Z axis and X are now stable and not wobbling. Also the whole printer is now more rigid and stay in place on the desk I should use a bit bigger piece of wood for the base, but I have found only this one in my beasement.
When I will change the bed to a bigger one, then I will probably also change the wood.

My X and Y axis are still the same as before, because I still dont have the new glass and the longer belts for my X axis. Around next week they should arrive.

Whats nice is that I can say that my Smartrap is now almost fully reliable printer, and the woluime of print output is really big! ^^ My max print height is 27cm tall. The rest will be measured after assembling.
Im only a bit worried about the X axis. Do you guys think that after changing the rods for so long, the hotend wont go too low because of it weight, while the head will be moved toward front?

Im also thinking about doing my hotend wires longer, that I could mount them on the top wood piece, and then wire to the threated rod and the ramps. That they will be going to the printing head from the top, not the back side. It would help me to get a better bed probing and prints.

And when I talk about my prints, I mus say they are getting pretty nice See the pics below.
The only problem is sometimes with the layers when the nozzle is going up doing bigger piece, and started from small spot. Then the nozzle is moving to much, and the layers are getting ugly.
Am I right that this problem is because of too big steps? Because my motor drivers power is callibrated propetly. (see the Moai statue print)

Some pics

Whole printer


Printing first vase (10cm height)



Came out pretty nice



The second one, much better and bit bigger



Minecraft creeper for a friend



And the Moai, look at the ears, nose and the chin. Anny idea?


Everything was printed using the 0.3mm nozzle. Now Im going to print with 0.5mm some larger parts and for saving the time.

Kamil.

The Maori is a tricky one to print and is very good for testing.
Are you using a fan?
What software did you use for slicing?
Are you using retract?

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Now I know that its a tricki one

Yes, im using the fan for genie hotend, and the fan for the nozzle. But I havent printed yet Your duct.
Right now Im using Cura 14.07 for some time, and I just love it. It just was giving me the better results than RH with less effort.
Yes, right now retracion is like this: Speed 45mm/s, distance 5mm, and in the expert settings nothing changed.

I was printing Maori with 0.14mm layer height, 0.3mm nozzle, temp 204C, shell thickness 0.6, bottom/top thickness 0.6, initial layer thickness 0.2, infil 25%, speed 40mm/s

Quote
regpye
The Maori is a tricky one to print and is very good for testing.
Are you using a fan?
What software did you use for slicing?
Are you using retract?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2014 03:19PM by verteez.