Solarprism s' SmartRap 0.46 build J head

Hi everybody. I have be able to finish the build of Smartrap. This is my build. The print quanlity is OK, just have a small problem as the extruder misstep on some first solid layers. Anyone have ideas ?

Very nice build Solarprism!

Cool build solar... Interesting how you swapped the direction of the filament/bowden tube.

On the extruder skipping steps, Adjust the stepper driver if you haven't already.
Filament quality has a lot to do with this. I set my perimeter and infill speeds down to like 25mm/s and then slowly increased the speeds till the skipping came back. Then move back to the last successful speed. I will still get an occasional skip, but I think that's due to the filament diameter being out of spec every so often.

Nice printer Solaprism

Madmike8, I think that he hasn't changed annything. He just connected the bowden tube and stepper motor in other direction, I think.

Keep us posted

Nice one solarprism

It's true it's easy to reverse the bowden cable on the extruder. I was thinking doing that because since i use 40mm motors, the bowden come into the coupler ( which is to be replaced anyway , waiting for a better solution !) .

madmike is right, with direct drive, we are limited in speed. I wouldn't think , but from my tests and production, it's the direct drive that prevent me to go further than 40..50 mm/s printing. Pressure is too high , even with a 1.75 filament and 0,5 nozzle.

That's why we will update the extruder because with a next version, where we will certainly have the Xaxis fix ( only head moving) , we will be very light and could go way faster than now.

anyway. congrats

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the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Thank u all you guys. I reverse the direction due to i use a 40mm motor so like smartfriendz, it is on the way of the couple. I have already adjusted the motor controller. Maybe i will need to reduce the speed. My J head is cheap one, with 0.3mm nozzle ( i doubt that ^^ )

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solarprism
Thank u all you guys. I reverse the direction due to i use a 40mm motor so like smartfriendz, it is on the way of the couple. I have already adjusted the motor controller. Maybe i will need to reduce the speed. My J head is cheap one, with 0.3mm nozzle ( i doubt that ^^ )

I had problems on my prusa with a 0.3 nozzle so change that to a 0.4 so do you get better speed and still high detail
I have a mk8 direct drive extruder on my prusa.

Hi. I found out the problem. The problem is the printing surface is not even, I am not sure why the auto level not work. Because the side to the X axis motor always higher than the farther end.
Is that becaus the servo autolevel is not reliable?

Does your Lm8uu bearings have any slack?

I think the overhanging bed bends a bit when the 3rd autolevel probes.

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BackEMF
I think the overhanging bed bends a bit when the 3rd autolevel probes.

I have been watching while doing the probing and I see that when the X is extended there is some movement and this can cause a bit of a problem with accurate measurements for probing in that area.
One thing that could help is to make the bearings for the Y further apart so there is more support at the open side.
Another thing that can help is to make the probing not go too far to the front so that there is less deflection of the bed.
I have already made the X axis stronger and less flexible and that seems to have improved the probing a lot.

More tests to do on mine and then maybe another re-build ha..ha..

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

My bearing not much slack, I think that iss the problem like BackEMF said.
@regpye: how can u reinforce the X axis. Can u take some photos?
Thanks

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solarprism
My bearing not much slack, I think that iss the problem like BackEMF said.
@regpye: how can u reinforce the X axis. Can u take some photos?
Thanks

I am preparing a build section, but don't have a lot of spare time. Here is a preview of the part that you are asking about.
Been designed for GT2 belts.

Stronger X plate

Stronger X plate.

Experimental X end I am testing now. Not altogether happy with the first test of the new end, so I have redesigned it and will test again. The bearing assembly in the photo works very well. Takes a bit more PLA to print, but worth it.

More to come soon.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I like the bearings assembly ! It must be very much more stable.

I will try something like this ( in redesign actually ) .

thank you regpye.

---

the Smartrap project

[smartfriendz.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[reprap.org]
[github.com]
doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
NEW: Forum smartfriendz: [smartraptalk.smartfriendz.com]

Hi

how did you connect bowden tube to extruder? What type of connector did u use and how did u attach it?

RM

Quote
RobertMei
Hi

how did you connect bowden tube to extruder? What type of connector did u use and how did u attach it?

RM

If you are referring to my extruder, I used a pneumatic hose fitting.
The PLA body was tapped with an M5 tap and the fitting screwed in
The pneumatic fittings can be found on ebay and you need one that fits 4mm hose and has a M5 thread.

ebay

If you are referring to the standard direct drive, I found that threading a M4 nut onto the 4mm PTFE tube and then pushing it in the extruder opening and have the nut on the OUTSIDE.
Change the position of the PTFE hook so that it is close to the nut (motor bolt fitting) and that will make it very easy to fit. I had a lot of difficulty fitting it the way shown with the nut in the nut holder slot.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/07/2014 05:54AM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Nice build!

I bought the same cheap 0.3 hotend and it was just waaaaaaay toooooo slooooow to print with. I ended up drilling the nozzle with a 0.5mm drill I discovered accidentally while at the electronics store.

I would have gone for a 0.4 but they only had 0.5mm. This, and a geared extruder, I can reliably reach 80mm/s infill depending on the filament. Others go even more than double that speed.

0.5mm allows me to do big prints fast and if I needed finer quality, I just drop the layer height. I like the flexibility.


Oh, by the way, if you get that skipping of extruder motor on the first layer and not in other layers, it means your nozzle is too close to the bed. Move it up a 0.1 or 0.2mm and then use the setting in your slicer to print the first layer thicker (180% and higher).