Info on the SmartRep Mini ---First post---

Hello forum! I have been lurking and reading for a while now. I have almost 100% settled on a smartrep as my first build for two reasons : Desing simplicity , and cost. There is a fellow down the road from me (literally a mile) , who has a prusa mendel . He has printed me a copy of Breach: Starship Duels , looks wonderful. He has agreed to print me a set of platics , but I cannot figure if I want to go fullsize smartrep , or wait for the mini. I really like the idea behind the mini being smaller and cheaper to build , while being able to scale up easily enough.

Problem I am having , is there are no definitive mini files. I have found some X and Y mods in the files , but no main parts. The second issue I'm wondering about , is if I make a mini , will the build volume be enough to print the parts for the fullsize smartrep?


Im sure I have lots more questions , but that's all I can remember right now .



by the way , I'm basher

Hi Basher,
maybe I am missing something, but I don't think there is a "mini" version. The existing smartrap version is "mini" enough, believe me!

[reprap.org]


Nema 14 instead of 17's . I couldn't figure it out , but when I got an error on checking a post on here , it says that the mini is in development and not done yet, so that simplifies that issue...


As for the fullsize smartrep , how bad is the fishing line? I see some people make a huge fuss about it , and others that it worked from the start with no problems...

In the end, and as cheap as you can find the pulleys and belts, using them is the better way to go. I started with string and then went to belts. Belts are better all in all.

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From FreeCAD To The Real World- Demo video using FreeCAD and featuring the Smartrap 3D Printer

I am not sure which direction to go ... there are so many modifications , and everyone's machine is different , environment is different ; so I know I just have to get some stuff together and see what goes wrong. I have concluded that I am going to get the standard "release" printed , and go from there. I am confused as to the servo and non servo leveling. Until I got deep into the older pages here , I hadn't heard anything about servos... I also dont see what would hold the enstop or servo... and can only make it out in one or two of the pictures I have pulled...


I also dont see anything about the extruder. The bowden setup looks good , but I dont see anything for it in the BOM or the stl's. Do I just pick what design I want? Other than that , I only have about 47 more questions...


Is there a version with single gt2 belts and dual tensioner/idlers ? Is the m5 still used for Z? Has anyone thought to add a second support pillar out front , and run a beam attached to the bed , to keep the whole thing a little more sturdy? When I have my plastics printed , is there any reason not to use transparent material? What kind of infill should I ask for ? The guy printing for me does each part (or multiples) individually , to avoid catastrophic miscalculations , so I could essentially ask for things like the Z coupler to be stronger. Worth it?

A few ideas to remove the last motor from the uprights , but I am sure I'm well ahead of myself at this point...





Thanks for the replies !

Quote
Basher
I am not sure which direction to go ... there are so many modifications , and everyone's machine is different , environment is different ; so I know I just have to get some stuff together and see what goes wrong. I have concluded that I am going to get the standard "release" printed , and go from there. I am confused as to the servo and non servo leveling. Until I got deep into the older pages here , I hadn't heard anything about servos... I also dont see what would hold the enstop or servo... and can only make it out in one or two of the pictures I have pulled...


I also dont see anything about the extruder. The bowden setup looks good , but I dont see anything for it in the BOM or the stl's. Do I just pick what design I want? Other than that , I only have about 47 more questions...


Is there a version with single gt2 belts and dual tensioner/idlers ? Is the m5 still used for Z? Has anyone thought to add a second support pillar out front , and run a beam attached to the bed , to keep the whole thing a little more sturdy? When I have my plastics printed , is there any reason not to use transparent material? What kind of infill should I ask for ? The guy printing for me does each part (or multiples) individually , to avoid catastrophic miscalculations , so I could essentially ask for things like the Z coupler to be stronger. Worth it?

A few ideas to remove the last motor from the uprights , but I am sure I'm well ahead of myself at this point...





Thanks for the replies !

Hi Basher,
You will get plenty of help in this forum for the SmartRaps.
There has been a continued development on these machines and even the early version with the fishing line worked well enough to start out with. That was my first one and it is still going now. I have personally developed several re-designs of the machine and all but the last one have worked very well. I still have seven smartRaps that are all working well.
The last one (number eight) no-one had tried yet, and I built it to see if it would work, but it failed miserably.
That model has GT2 belt for the Z axis as well as the X and Y being GT2 belts. The Z is the problem with this particular model.

I am starting a promotion for September.
Anyone that purchases one of my Genie Hotends MK1 model will receive a Smartrap 4.6/7 plastic kit for free (until all gone, there are 20 of them) if they want it.
Fishing line will be included with the plastic parts. The plastic parts are straight off the print bed and will need a small amount of edge cleaning as normal..
The hotend has also been reduced for September as a new model will be added to the fold very soon, not to replace the MK1 model, but to add to the model selections.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Hi Basher,
I just got the latest Smartrap about 2 weeks ago, it works really well and is very quick to set up from the individual parts. I had a problem with my hot end and overheating but that was not the printer design to blame.
The servo is not required on the new autolevel model which is nice.
I have this idea that rack and pinion would be the best way to go, the rack pulls the bed sides together and makes it more sturdy. Also Regpye has a really cool stand alone Y axis that could be added if you want more rigidity on the axis (If only it had rack and pinion) and i think his axis would be a lot better suited to extending the build size if you wanted to. I would say build a basic one first and see if it suits your needs. If you have problems then address them one at a time and modify as required. This forum is a great source of help.
Regards
Mike

Quote
mikefiatx19
Also Regpye has a really cool stand alone Y axis that could be added if you want more rigidity on the axis (If only it had rack and pinion) and i think his axis would be a lot better suited to extending the build size if you wanted to.
Regards
Mike

It would be quite easy to add the rack and pinion to my stand alone Y axis, just drill two holes for the threaded rod and print the rack and pinion that is available already.
Also the stand alone geared extruder would be a good idea to use too. All are available on my website to download.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Thanks for the replies.


I am at the point now of overload... This is a great forum. I thought the plastics would be hard to find , or expensive compared to the other needed parts , but itl turns out that the members here are very generous. I may take you up on the offer reg , but I dont know if I'll have the cash this month. I have liked your design since the first time I saw it. Aluminum fin heatsink and 118 degree lands make me confident that I wont be fighting leaks and jamming. Which heater do you recommend ? the 3A heater cartridge seems like overkill if the 3w resistor works ...not that there is anything wrong with overkill...


Off to source some local broken printers ...

Quote
Basher
Thanks for the replies.


I am at the point now of overload... This is a great forum. I thought the plastics would be hard to find , or expensive compared to the other needed parts , but itl turns out that the members here are very generous. I may take you up on the offer reg , but I dont know if I'll have the cash this month. I have liked your design since the first time I saw it. Aluminum fin heatsink and 118 degree lands make me confident that I wont be fighting leaks and jamming. Which heater do you recommend ? the 3A heater cartridge seems like overkill if the 3w resistor works ...not that there is anything wrong with overkill...


Off to source some local broken printers ...

The heater I use is a 40W heater cartridge, easy to fit, no problems, and quick to heat up. I have resistors too, but no-one has ever bothered to use them from me.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Are the resistors not precise enough?

The problem I see with resistors is that if you try to go faster they can't melt the filament fast enought. A 30W heater cartrige works better in this case. Also they heat up faster.

Dan.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/01/2014 12:13PM by ldanut.

Quote
ldanut
The problem I see with resistors is that if you try to go faster they can't melt the filament fast enought. A 30W heater cartrige works better in this case. Also they heat up faster.

Dan.

What are the disadvantages of the cartrige, if any?

They can burn your house down: [forums.reprap.org]

Quote
cristian

Quote
ldanut
The problem I see with resistors is that if you try to go faster they can't melt the filament fast enought. A 30W heater cartrige works better in this case. Also they heat up faster.

Dan.

What are the disadvantages of the cartrige, if any?

I personally have not found any problems with the cartridge heaters, they are neat, easy to fit, heat up fast, consistent, price is not bad, and most of all reliable.
Resistors are a bit hard to fit, need to extend the leads, often are different sizes, so the hole needs modifying so they will fit, easy to break, not consistent, often burn out, and not much cheaper than the cartridge. Need I say more?

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
Cameraman
They can burn your house down: [forums.reprap.org]

Notice on my hotends there is a grub screw that holds the cartridge firmly in place so it can't come loose.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
Cameraman
They can burn your house down: [forums.reprap.org]

A resistor can also burn your house down.

:-)

Never leave your printer alone when it is working.

Remember, this can happen with a poorly secured heater or thermistor: