I don't get out of the beta status...

Good morning everybody. It has now been 2 Month since my first smartrap. My first printer was wa delta style printer, but due to the limited build area and the big dimension, I switched to a smaller printer type, the smartrap.

I started with the version 0.46 with fishing line system. Because I had many slanted prints, the servo not working and some other problems, I ordered the newest version 0.491. Its now 2 Weeks since I finished this version. The first problem was the stepper height, I had to increase the bed by round about 8mm in the height (by attaching 6mm multiplex + 3mm heated alu bed)

I'm currently Using an E3D V6 Full Metall Hotend and only printing PLA. I kept the original Build nearly 100%, except of the hotend, and I had to use bronze bushing instead of LM6UU, because I got some really low quality parts from ebay.

Nevertheless, I finished the build and did some adjustments: I defined the Offset of the described by "regpye". Unfortunately, this only works for one print. After the second print, I've to define the offset once again, and for the third print, and for the fourth, etc. I don't know if the autolevel is not working properly. (The combined solution of Multiplex and 3mm Alu is not flexing like glas I guess)

Those parts who came out, had terrible Z wobbles, so I printed one [www.thingiverse.com] and attached it to my build, but unfortunetely the z wobbles stayed. This there maybe some different bed level routine I can use?

Quote
Xhnnas


Nevertheless, I finished the build and did some adjustments: I defined the Offset of the described by "regpye". Unfortunately, this only works for one print. After the second print, I've to define the offset once again, and for the third print, and for the fourth, etc. I don't know if the autolevel is not working properly. (The combined solution of Multiplex and 3mm Alu is not flexing like glas I guess)

Those parts who came out, had terrible Z wobbles, so I printed one [www.thingiverse.com] and attached it to my build, but unfortunetely the z wobbles stayed. This there maybe some different bed level routine I can use?

The auto bed leveling data is not being retained, maybe it can be found by looking at your start g-code? Please show us what you are doing, because there should be no problem with the auto leveling to make you have to do it each time you print.

Z wobbles can be caused through using a top bearing on the Z threaded rod. It is best to let that end wobble as much as it needs to, because if you stop that end wobbling, the wobble is transferred to the X axis and causes the problem you have. Most threaded rods are not straight, so some wobble is unavoidable. You want the wobble to be taking place where it wont make your printed part have problems.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2014 05:20AM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

As I'm a little bit familiar with the probing from my kossel mini, I entered the G29 command to the start Gcode.

G28; Homing
G29; Probing

And thats it. The Firmware is the standard Firmware attached to the smartrap master folder.

As Slicer I'm using Kisslicer

Hi

Are you using the 3 point probe method, or the grid mode?
If you have EEPROM turned off, try to disable it in your Marlin.

I was having a realy big problems with the bed leveling, but I have menaged to fix it. For my printer somehow the grid mode is not working propetly, so Im using the 3 point mode.
Maybe it will work also for you? Also try to play a bit with the

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 0.1 // smartrap: special quantic error mesurement from porte a faux design (see marlin.cpp)

Are you using Cura, Repetier Host or other software? Can you provide the whole start gcode?

If you want, I can send you my Marlin configuration. Maybe it will work.

Oh, and RegPye is right, the Z threated rod should have a little free space for wobbling, but connecting the Z rods together, or also to the base should eliminate the wobbling.
You can try to print this part(antiwobble_top) and mount it on top of your Z smoothe rod, but be sure that the Z threated rod is moving freely and have a bit of space for work.

I was having an terrible Z and X wobble after changing rods to a longer ones, but this helped me to eliminate it completly.

Also anny loose wires from your hotend and the bowden tube can change your offset measurment. Try to make sure that they are not giving you the false data.

I hope something of this will help you

Kamil.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2014 10:37AM by verteez.

I use a 8mm lead screw for z axis and i get zero wobble. And I don't use autocalibration at all. I added some knobs to the bed and did one time bed leveling manually and thats all. It works perfect every time after couple of kilo of plastics.

Quote
ldanut
I use a 8mm lead screw for z axis and i get zero wobble. And I don't use autocalibration at all. I added some knobs to the bed and did one time bed leveling manually and thats all. It works perfect every time after couple of kilo of plastics.

I have a few printers like that, and use a hall effect sensor for the Z probe. Once setup up they all work very well.
The 8mm threaded rods always seem to be straighter, especially if using stainless steel.
The cheap zinc coated thread doesn't seem to be the same good quality, but is very much cheaper.
Instead of using springs of the bed adjustment, I use some silicone rubber donuts that I made myself. Very easy to do if you have some 2 part silicone, just make a simple mould from some wood but drilling a large hole that is shallow and a small hole in the centre of that so a wooden pin can be pushed in. The wooden pin forms the hole in the silicone so you don't have to drill it. Mix the silicone and pour into the large hole and leave to set.
The silicone rubber donuts have enough flex to make the adjustments and also keep the bed very sturdy (unlike springs do), also the silicone is a good heat break, so there is no lose of heat if you use a heated bed.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2014 04:03PM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I like your idea with silicone rubber donuts from holding the heated bed in place point of view more than heat transfer. I don't think there is much heat transfer over that spring. You still have to sandwich everything together using a M3 screw that go inside donut and that is the main heat transfer source. Heated bed and bottom support i assume they have at least M4 holes to allow for some heat expansion? As for leadscrew I got them with good price from aliexpress.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/22/2014 05:05PM by ldanut.

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Quote
Xhnnas
Nevertheless, I finished the build and did some adjustments: I defined the Offset of the described by "regpye". Unfortunately, this only works for one print. After the second print, I've to define the offset once again, and for the third print, and for the fourth, etc. I don't know if the autolevel is not working properly. (The combined solution of Multiplex and 3mm Alu is not flexing like glas I guess)

I had a similar thing happen because the hotend swinging arm was a bit too tight. Instead of hitting the bed and pressing the Z switch and falling back down all of the way it would sometimes fall half way then stop. That causes the Z offset to change a little. I still haven't found a way to fully stop that from happening and i have to check it before every print. Too tight and the end wont move to press the switch at all, too loose and the nozzle is not held securely enough and it wiggles.
Check your Z switch is securely fastened too, any movement of the switch will affect the Z offset.

Quote
mikefiatx19

Quote
Xhnnas
Nevertheless, I finished the build and did some adjustments: I defined the Offset of the described by "regpye". Unfortunately, this only works for one print. After the second print, I've to define the offset once again, and for the third print, and for the fourth, etc. I don't know if the autolevel is not working properly. (The combined solution of Multiplex and 3mm Alu is not flexing like glas I guess)

I had a similar thing happen because the hotend swinging arm was a bit too tight. Instead of hitting the bed and pressing the Z switch and falling back down all of the way it would sometimes fall half way then stop. That causes the Z offset to change a little. I still haven't found a way to fully stop that from happening and i have to check it before every print. Too tight and the end wont move to press the switch at all, too loose and the nozzle is not held securely enough and it wiggles.
Check your Z switch is securely fastened too, any movement of the switch will affect the Z offset.

I found the same problems with the original Z limit assembly.
I overcame that problem by re-designing the whole thing and used a short piece of PTFE tube to act as a guide for the swinging arm. That took care of any movement in the wrong direction.
A small spring was added to force the arm down against a stop so that the arm was always in the same position when taking the measurements.
Never had a problem after that

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Unfortunately nothing helped.

Yesterday I did the same procedure as everyday.

I zeroed the Z offset in Marlin and uploaded it.
I Homed the axis (Z Home is at 90/90 due to marlin firmware settings)
Put a piece of Paper under it and highered the Z Axis
Defined the Z Height at 1.4
Insertet Z Offset height of 1.4 into Marlin.

Started to print a small 1,5cm Cube
Nozzle was to close to bed and print jammed
highered the Z Offset by 0.2

Started the print once again
Cube came out perfectly

Started to print a leapfrog
Nozzle to far away from Bed
Had to lower the Offset by 0.2
The upper part of the first layer stick to bed, the lower part cratched on the bed.
So I tried to increase the X Offset Value (right beneath the Z Offset, didn't remember the name)
Did not worked
Increased it more
Did not worked.

This was the procedure for the last 3 hours of my day yesterday, after that I decided to go to bed.

In the Firmware I choosed the Grid bed leveling with 9 Points from 10/10 to 160/160.

Interestingly I can't define the Eeprom. When I uncomment it and upload the firmware, the stepper motors are not working, Repetier only shows, that 5 commands are outstanding. But even without uncommenting it I can read and write values to the eeprom (regarding repetier), but the values are deleted after restart.

My this be the root of the cause?

Attached you can find a picture of my hotend probe, is this as it should be?

Quote
Xhnnas
Unfortunately nothing helped.

Yesterday I did the same procedure as everyday.

I zeroed the Z offset in Marlin and uploaded it.
I Homed the axis (Z Home is at 90/90 due to marlin firmware settings)
Put a piece of Paper under it and highered the Z Axis
Defined the Z Height at 1.4
Insertet Z Offset height of 1.4 into Marlin.

Started to print a small 1,5cm Cube
Nozzle was to close to bed and print jammed
highered the Z Offset by 0.2

Started the print once again
Cube came out perfectly

Started to print a leapfrog
Nozzle to far away from Bed
Had to lower the Offset by 0.2
The upper part of the first layer stick to bed, the lower part cratched on the bed.
So I tried to increase the X Offset Value (right beneath the Z Offset, didn't remember the name)
Did not worked
Increased it more
Did not worked.

This was the procedure for the last 3 hours of my day yesterday, after that I decided to go to bed.

In the Firmware I choosed the Grid bed leveling with 9 Points from 10/10 to 160/160.

Interestingly I can't define the Eeprom. When I uncomment it and upload the firmware, the stepper motors are not working, Repetier only shows, that 5 commands are outstanding. But even without uncommenting it I can read and write values to the eeprom (regarding repetier), but the values are deleted after restart.

My this be the root of the cause?

Attached you can find a picture of my hotend probe, is this as it should be?

You should be putting a minus sign in front of your offset?.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/23/2014 05:17AM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

When I choose a negativ value, it crashed on the bed.

Quote
Xhnnas
When I choose a negativ value, it crashed on the bed.

So you have tried that? Can you show us more about the setup, it seems strange that you are having this problem.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I have a positive value and everything is working fine.
If you want, check my configuration file, maybe it will work for you?

Quote
verteez
I have a positive value and everything is working fine.
If you want, check my configuration file, maybe it will work for you?

Yes on my SmartRaps I use a positive value as well and a negative on the MagikMakers and i3 machines. But all of this depends on how the probe is setup and we have not seen clearly how this particular machine is setup. The photo shown is not clear on how the sensor is working.
As we all know, there are many different SmartRap variations now, and some are using very different probing systems and more are coming.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I'm terribly sorry, but I forget to make some pictures of my build, I will implement them this evening.

I tried the negativ value of the offset: It's scratching on the heatbed. But finally I think the probing works much better than before. I got the tipp to clear the EEPROM with the following code:

/*
* EEPROM Clear
*
* Sets all of the bytes of the EEPROM to 0.
* This example code is in the public domain.
*/
#include
void setup()
{
// write a 0 to all 4096 bytes of the EEPROM
for (int i = 0; i < 4096; i++)
EEPROM.write(i, 0);

// turn the LED on when we're done
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
}
void loop()
{
}

So I was able to enable the EEPROM Setting in the firmware.

Unfortunately I only can print small pieces in the middle of the bed (That is where I defined the Z Offest)
at the Position of 10/10 the layers don't stick, because the nozzle is to far away from the bed. At 180/180 the nozzle scratches on the bed again. at 90/90 everything is fine.

I tried to play a bit with the Delta X adjustment, but it did not worked for me. I tried values from -3,9 to 3,9, but the behavior did not changed. Only small pieces.
I'm using the Probing version of the smartrap build 0.491 from github/thingiverse.

For me the Delta X adjustment work only with 3 point mode. When I use this bed leveling method the nozzle probes the 3 point, starting at the back, and the last one is at the fron of the printer. Here my bed is higer, and the software remember it as the higest point of the bed, and Im always callibrating the Z offset to this point. When offset is good here, then the delta X asjustment is changing the offset on back of my printer, where have been two points probed. I have just discovered and understanded it not so long ago
Changing the #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 0 is alowing me to change the diffrence in nozzle height and not loss the offest.

So, annyway, try with the 3 point mode, Run in the Repetier Host G29 command, and write in Marlin the offset value generated by the g29.
After this try to run some bigger print and see how the nozzle is moving. If the nozzle is somewhere too high, or too low, just try to change the delta X value.

I hope it might help you a bit

Quote
Xhnnas
I'm terribly sorry, but I forget to make some pictures of my build, I will implement them this evening.

I tried the negativ value of the offset: It's scratching on the heatbed. But finally I think the probing works much better than before. I got the tipp to clear the EEPROM with the following code:

/*
* EEPROM Clear
*
* Sets all of the bytes of the EEPROM to 0.
* This example code is in the public domain.
*/
#include
void setup()
{
// write a 0 to all 4096 bytes of the EEPROM
for (int i = 0; i < 4096; i++)
EEPROM.write(i, 0);

// turn the LED on when we're done
digitalWrite(13, HIGH);
}
void loop()
{
}

So I was able to enable the EEPROM Setting in the firmware.

Unfortunately I only can print small pieces in the middle of the bed (That is where I defined the Z Offest)
at the Position of 10/10 the layers don't stick, because the nozzle is to far away from the bed. At 180/180 the nozzle scratches on the bed again. at 90/90 everything is fine.

I tried to play a bit with the Delta X adjustment, but it did not worked for me. I tried values from -3,9 to 3,9, but the behavior did not changed. Only small pieces.
I'm using the Probing version of the smartrap build 0.491 from github/thingiverse.

I know, but without the photos I also wasn't able to help a lot. I just writed the first things from my mind after reading his problem
You are right, every SmartRap variation is using diffrent probing systems, and the callibration is also diffrent.
I just see some similar things to my, not so old, problem with leveling.

But Im pretty sure that also this problem will be solved thanks to the community

Quote
regpye

Quote
verteez
I have a positive value and everything is working fine.
If you want, check my configuration file, maybe it will work for you?

Yes on my SmartRaps I use a positive value as well and a negative on the MagikMakers and i3 machines. But all of this depends on how the probe is setup and we have not seen clearly how this particular machine is setup. The photo shown is not clear on how the sensor is working.
As we all know, there are many different SmartRap variations now, and some are using very different probing systems and more are coming.

Sorry, I don't get it with the X Delta. You have activated the 3 Point method, right? Where did you measured the Z offset? In the Middle of the bed or at 0/0?
If you measured the height at 0/0 and for example the Z Offset at this point is 0.5. and the nozzle scratches on the bed at 180/180, do I have to choose a positiv value for the X Delta?

I will post as much pictures this evening as possible.

So you have the same situation as me.

First, activate the 3 point method in marlin. Don't change the Z offset now, you will make it leater. Only make sure that the last point of 3 point method is defined in Marlin and the third probe point for X axis is as much far at the front of printer as it can be.
For me it's :

  #else  // not AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID
    // with no grid, just probe 3 arbitrary points.  A simple cross-product
    // is used to esimate the plane of the print bed

      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 10
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 10
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 10
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 130
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 170    <---   This one 
      #define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 65

Reupload the Marlin. ( You will be reuploading it, because try to not use the EEPROM[try to disable it], You will be sure that the printer is not remembering the old software.)
After this home all the axis in repetier host and run g29 command. This will do the probing.
Then in log window you will get for example something like this

13:05:44.977 : End file list
13:06:17.966 : Bed x: 10.00 y: 10.00 z: 2.22
13:06:24.155 : Bed x: 10.00 y: 130.00 z: 2.54
13:06:30.643 : Bed x: 165.00 y: 65.00 z: 2.50
13:06:30.648 : echo:endstops hit:  Z:2.50     Here is your offset, but it's equal to bed height, so you must add to it 0.01 to now scratch your bed surface. So here actuall offset will be 2.51

Now you can change the offset in marlin. Type the value from repetier host and use the bigger one as I writed before.
Reupload Marlin to your printer.
Remember, the Z offset will be calculated to the last point probed(The one around X170, or what you have defined), so at the back of the printer (0.0 position) the offet might be diffrent due to your bed level.
Here is where the Delta X thing is helping

Now you can try to run some big piece as test print. For not loosing filament it can be just a stick, annything, but something that is placed at the front and back of the bed. ( I meand long and thin piece )
Try to look at the first layers, probably at the front (where your X is 170 or higer) they will be sticking well, if so, then you are almost finishing.
Next, look at the back of the printer (around 0.0 position) If your layers are not sticking, and the offset here is too big, then try to change the

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 0 <---change the zero to a higer value, try by 0.1, 0.2 to get it working depending on your bed level

This will lower your nozzle for the distance defined by you in delta X, where the layers were too high (around 0.0 position).

If your layers vere too low, and nozzle scratched the bed, do the reversed process. Just change the value to a negative one. Higer negative value, the higer the nozzle will be (around 0.0 position)

You must try to change this value a few times to get it working fine. But belive me, it will work.
I was trying to write it the best as I could. If its still not clear to understan, I will try co record a video for you with this method

Ps. There is also Delta Y which is changing the nozzle height at sides of your bed, but first try to get the Delta X one working.

Cheers!

Quote
Xhnnas
Sorry, I don't get it with the X Delta. You have activated the 3 Point method, right? Where did you measured the Z offset? In the Middle of the bed or at 0/0?
If you measured the height at 0/0 and for example the Z Offset at this point is 0.5. and the nozzle scratches on the bed at 180/180, do I have to choose a positiv value for the X Delta?

I will post as much pictures this evening as possible.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/24/2014 08:16AM by verteez.

Just wondering:

Are the internal pullup's configured in configuration.h?
If there is no pull up then you have a floating signal signal on the contact that could eventually cause misreadings.Coarse End Stop Pull Up Resistor – line 194

look for:
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS
#ifndef ENDSTOPPULLUPS

[airtripper.com]

Good Morning everybody. I tried to level the bed as described by verteez,

unfortunately it did not helped.
I startet with homing x and y, and traveled to 180/170, my print maximum. The endstop activates at -2,44. I used this value and added 0.01 (2.45) and insertet it for the offset. I tried to print at 180/170 my calibration cube: Nope, the nozzle scratched on the bed.

I tried to increase the offset in 0.5 steps in the firmware. At roughly 4.9 i was able to print my cube. After that I tried to print the cube at 0/170. The Nozzle was more than 5mm away from the bed. I tried to adjust it with the DELTA X Value. It took nearly half an hour until I was able to print the cube at this position. Next step was to print at 180/0. Unfortunately the nozzle scratched on the bed again. So I played a bit with the DELTA Y Value. At -0.7 I was able to print the Cube at this location. After that I tried to print once again at the location 180/170... unfortunately the values which where the correct ones before, where not the right after tuning the DELTAS and the nozzle scratches again on the bed.

After 3 hours tuning and tweaking the entire setup failed.

Frustrated I changed the leveling method back to grid and 12 Points leveling just to be able to print at the end of the bed of the printer.

I think it might be due to the bed leveling itself, because without changing the setup, the Z offset value is always different.

Unfortunately I'm not allowed to use a pic hoster at work, so please find attached the link to my google plus galery (I hope it works)

[plus.google.com]

Just a short description about the setup:
- Stepper Motors are 48mm 0.9°
- Electronic is RAMPS 1.4 with 16 Microsteps on E and Z Axis, and 32 Microsteps on X and Y
- The Z Axis is a TR8x1,5 with a flexibel couppler
- Heated bed is MK3 at 12 Volt
- Instead of LM6UU I'm using bronze bushings
- The Hotend is e3D v6
- The X and Y axis are using 6mm rods, the Z Axis 8mm rods
- The complete Build is 0.491 Version made out of abs
- The build is attached on Plywood/Multiplex 9mm
- The bed custruction is supported by the original bed support
- The Print itself is cooled by the attached fan
- The Ramps is also cooled by a fan.
- GT2 Belt

Still not working for me. I think this is caused by the Probe itself. If I'm probing at 0/0 he need much lesser force that at 180/0. I don't know how to describe it in english. What I mean is: at the location of 0/0 the hotend just need to tip on the glas and the enstops activate. At the location at X = 180 he has to drive down the Z Axis much more to create enough force to activate the endstop. Therefore there is a failure in the autolevel measurement. For example the z Axis is down an -4.5, but the heatbed itself is just 0.1 mm away from the nozzle.

Hi Xhnnas,

I see perfectly what you mean ! It's indeed a known problem due to the design of the smartrap considering we are not touching the bed , and the ddition of the autolevelling later, which actually touch the bed.

Normally, the effort to activate the endstop at 180 shouldn't be so strong. But there is an offset, for sure . This ofset is integrated in our marlin version on our github and take palce in configurtion.h :

#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER_DELTA_X 0

with this parameter you can adjust the offset you have when probing at 180. ( try to probe at 140 ? there's less problemes).

I hope it clarify a little the problem..

i'm working on that with thos new inductive sensors but we just had a little problem with 5V connection, we need to put them on 12v..

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So, after one month just a short feedback: I think why it's not working on my smartrap are the 6mm rods. The entire Axis is bending to much when he reaches the point 170/180. There is so much force, that some parts cracked.

As I told, I've an other smartrap with 8mm rods, I can use the autolevel routine on this printer and it works really fine. So I would prefer in future builds to go back to 8mm Rods if applicable.
I'm currently working on a inductive proximity sensor leveling with my ALU Heatbed to ignore the bending of the z Axis.

Quote
Xhnnas
So, after one month just a short feedback: I think why it's not working on my smartrap are the 6mm rods. The entire Axis is bending to much when he reaches the point 170/180. There is so much force, that some parts cracked.

As I told, I've an other smartrap with 8mm rods, I can use the autolevel routine on this printer and it works really fine. So I would prefer in future builds to go back to 8mm Rods if applicable.
I'm currently working on a inductive proximity sensor leveling with my ALU Heatbed to ignore the bending of the z Axis.

I have to agree with you about the 6mm rods. Just not enough rigidity in them and they do bend too much. I would be inclined to go to even 10mm rods instead, all round.
8mm being a good compromise. I really believe that 6mm rods were a step backwards in the design.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Quote
regpye
I have to agree with you about the 6mm rods. Just not enough rigidity in them and they do bend too much. I would be inclined to go to even 10mm rods instead, all round.
8mm being a good compromise. I really believe that 6mm rods were a step backwards in the design.

Fully agree. Not to mention that 6mm rods/bearings are harder to get and more expensive too, as they 're less common (at least in the reprap world).
Having built my smartrap with 8mm rods, I was forced to edit some of the smartrap parts (most notably the hotend mount for jhead) and reprint them because they only existed in 6mm versions, as I found out...

that's interesting. i wouldn't think 6mm was a bad idea.. I did because i thought it would be more light for X and Y axis , and i thought lm6uu and 6mm rods was as easy as 8mm to find and even a little less expensive ? ( mine cost a little less than 8 ).

It's easy to doall in 8mm , i've kept the models with 8mm ( we have 0,4,9,2 in 8mm too with GT2 ) .

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I had to pay more for the 6mm rods than for the 8mm rods of the previous version. Finding good LM6UU bearings was a pain. First I bought "Cheap" ones for 2€ /piece, these where chinese versions and totally crap. I was even not able to move the axis without jerk. Then I tried to use bronze bushings, but they did not worked as expected. So I bought the third time "premium" Bearings for 5€/piece. (I totally paid 70€ just for finding the right bearings).

ho boy ... tha'ts bad . I really didn't know it could be a problem those 6mm

sorry about that . .. I will have a look how to re-integrate the all 8mm version . It doesn't change so much for me .

thank you for your feedback by the way. it's very interesting

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