How do i use a bowden extruder with the J-head lite v2.1?

I'm just about to order the j-head lite v2.1 hot end and was wondering how I would put the bowden tube on it.

Thanks in advance,
Griffin

You can see it in this pic -



There is a 4 mm nut that retains the tube between the fork. The filament just passes from the tube into the body of the Jhead Light.

Mark

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From FreeCAD To The Real World- Demo video using FreeCAD and featuring the Smartrap 3D Printer

The V2.1 and the version used in the Smart Rap kits aren't the same. The ones Smartfriendz use have a 4mm hole for the initial portion of the bowden tubing to sit in. The V2.1 uses 3mm bowden tubing with a #5-40 nut. The J-Head Lites on ebay aren't necessarily sold as a Smart Rap supported product. They're more for end users building their own designs. Sorry for the confusion.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2014 01:02PM by Robert_Paulson.

The quick connect fitting on the end of this hotend takes the PTFE liner that forms the Bowden line.
It simply plugs in and holds very tightly. To remove, simply push the cap inwards and pull the liner out.

Genie Hotend MK1

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

The great thing about the V2.1 is that it's convertible between having a 3mm bowden tube or having a flush top. Mark's way works sans the 4mm counter bore, but Serge wants it there to give it a little more alignment. I've never had much success with the pneumatic fittings. There's too much of a lip.

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Robert_Paulson
I've never had much success with the pneumatic fittings. There's too much of a lip.

What does this mean Robert?, I have never had any problem with pneumatic fittings, but I have had problems with clips and nuts.
Maybe you have experienced something I have not yet, so I would like to know so I am aware.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

It is true i asked kyle to make a 5mm hole to fit the bowden inside the head for better alignment. If there is not , it's quiet easy to do , but you must think to disassemble the ptfe body and small tube before.
I guess you can also tell ohioplastic it's for a smartrap and he will do it.

I think like you regpye that pneumatic would be better ? I'm about to test it on the smartrap on both sides . i have some 6mm in stock here

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the Smartrap project

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smartfriendz
It is true i asked kyle to make a 5mm hole to fit the bowden inside the head for better alignment. If there is not , it's quiet easy to do , but you must think to disassemble the ptfe body and small tube before.
I guess you can also tell ohioplastic it's for a smartrap and he will do it.

I think like you regpye that pneumatic would be better ? I'm about to test it on the smartrap on both sides . i have some 6mm in stock here

Serge, I found them to be so good, I am also changing over the i3s I have to Bowden and pneumatic fittings.
It makes life so much easier when you can connect and disconnect at will when needed.
I started using M5 thread, but found the M6 thread more convenient as it is standard with the rest of the system.
Cheap, positive and very easy to use.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

So is it not possible for me to thread the inside of the top of the hotend to accept one of these? [www.ebay.com]

Or should I just ask Kyle from Ohio plastics to accommodate mine to work with the smartrap?

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knife-edge
So is it not possible for me to thread the inside of the top of the hotend to accept one of these? [www.ebay.com]

Or should I just ask Kyle from Ohio plastics to accommodate mine to work with the smartrap?

Sure you can tap the end to accept M6 and just screw the pneumatic fitting in. Pneumatic fitting
All of mine come that way so you can either use for Bowden, take it off and use for Wades, change the grooved nut supplied with a E3D grooved nut, add the supplied plate and use for 50mm plate fitting, or use the M6 supplied nut to adapt to a plate design. Makes that the hotend can be used for just about any system there is.
Also available in two lengths of hotend as shown below.


Shown without the pneumatic fitting, but it just screws in the top and is supplied with either model.
MK2 shown with a E3D fitting, MK1 shown with a Genie MagikMaker fitting.
50mm plate supplied and also the M6 nut supplied as well.
100K thermistor supplied as standard.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2014 07:55PM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

That's Reggie. Always pimpin' the goods.

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Robert_Paulson
That's Reggie. Always pimpin' the goods.

Are you back again Kyle, different name this time?

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Oops wrong post (deleted)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2014 08:16PM by BackEMF.

The one and only hot end king of northeast Ohio.

Hmmm... I'm liking that regpye more and more...

I like regpye and his design, but it's a little unsafe to just tape a thermistor to the side of a heater block like he does. Especially with a 40w heater cartridge.
[forums.reprap.org]

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Robert_Paulson
I like regpye and his design, but it's a little unsafe to just tape a thermistor to the side of a heater block like he does. Especially with a 40w heater cartridge.
[forums.reprap.org]

Who is going to burn the house?

The one who thinks that the printer is safe and can be left printing on its own, or the one who thinks that the printer is unsafe and needs to be constantly monitored?

Taping a thermistor onto a heater block and leaving your printer unattended are both inherently unsafe acts.

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Robert_Paulson
I like regpye and his design, but it's a little unsafe to just tape a thermistor to the side of a heater block like he does. Especially with a 40w heater cartridge.
[forums.reprap.org]

Actually I fit the thermistor into a hole that also takes a set screw for holding the heater block securely to the brass threaded rod. The thermistor is then set inside with some ceramic adhesive that is used usually for mounting heatsinks to chips, or silicone adhesive that is removable and can stand the heat too.
It is then wrapped with kapton tape more for holding the heat in the heater block than anything else. But if you wanted to do it cheap, and I know you like cheap, then just wrapping with the kapton tape is safe enough as the thermistor is located within a hole and doesn't move easily.

How do you fit yours Kyle?

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I think axial components are the way to go.

Sorry about the misunderstanding reg. Hard to see what's going on undrneath all that kapton.

On another note, please don't call me cheap. I sliced my index finger open on a sharp razor blade today, building the best GD printer component in the world. So excuse me for being pissy.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/07/2014 09:33PM by Robert_Paulson.

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Robert_Paulson

3.jpg

I think axial components are the way to go.

Sorry about the misunderstanding reg. Hard to see what's going on undrneath all that kapton.

The photo you have posted is of an early version of my MagikMaker. It uses many laser cut aluminium parts and the heatsink on the hotend really is not needed because of the heat break. The aluminium parts suck up any residual heat and many of that machine were made without the finned heatsink to give a little more height.
This can also be done with all my other hotends if the situation arises.
Although the photo doesn't show the complete assembly, there are slots cut in the aluminium base for the linear bearings that are held in place with strong zip ties. The aluminium knurled nuts (only one can be seen in this photo) are used for quick release of the whole extruder and hotend assemble from the X carriage.
The two small brackets on the right-hand side of the X carriage base are for pillars that the timing belt ends attach to.
The heaterblock on this particular model was bigger than the current designs, it was a fore runner to the current model and works wonderfully. The larger heaterblocks hold the heat better, keep the temperature stable, and requires less current to maintain the temperature.
The fan shown is not for cooling the hotend, it is for cooling the printed part, the hotend didn't need a fan in this situation and many have reported that they don't need a fan on their setups using the Genie Hotend too.

I tried axial components, both resistors and thermistors, and although both work I was very worried about the thermistors and stopping shorts with the leads that come off each end., it is too easy for a short to develop and hard to insulate the leads properly, unlike the type that has the leads at one end and close together. I use very fine silicone heat tube for the leads of the thermistor, and the heater cartridge doesn't need anything other that what is supplied with itself.

Did you get the photo from my website Kyle?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/07/2014 09:38PM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Forget about the thermistor. You called me cheap. This is something deeply offensive to me. I don't really care about 3d printing or smartrap or the whole reprap universe. I do what I do for the open source community. Not for Serge, not for you. I respect you reg. But a little reciprocation would be nice.

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Robert_Paulson
Forget about the thermistor. You called me cheap. This is something deeply offensive to me. I don't really care about 3d printing or smartrap or the whole reprap universe. I do what I do for the open source community. Not for Serge, not for you. I respect you reg. But a little reciprocation would be nice.

Kyle you should read more carefully, I didn't call you cheap' I said "you like cheap", something you have often promoted in many of your other posts under different names, and there is a big difference in what I said and what you have interpreted..

Please don't turn this forum into another "hate blog" or you will find yourself banned AGAIN.
We all should be working together to advance the technology as much as possible, not be looking at bringing each other down.
If you don't care about 3D printing, SmartRap of the whole reprap universe as you put it, why keep coming back and making a nuisance of yourself?
Respect by the way has to be earned, and it is not done by the actions that you often show. Be a little more civil with people and gain some respect for yourself.

You have a "Cheap Hotend", that works well for the money, but do you need to put others down that have a superior (and more expensive) product? I think not, because there will be many out there that can only afford a cheap hotend, so why not be content with cornering that market.

I am not interested in a cheap design, although it is very cheap compared with the quality that it has. and the reliability that it has too, so if someone has a few extra dollars, they may want to try a high quality hotend and remove the problems that ultra cheap has.

I will not continue with this argument that you are trying to create, this will be my last entry to this issue with you.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Yes please guys. I an still just trying to find the best way to fit a Bowden tube to a jhead light 2.1

If the admins would be so nice to try and explain to Kyle that it is about CHOICE and not about competition, then he might see that being friendly eventually could bring him more customers then the number of customers he is loosing by his offensive/aggressive approach. When I came across his product also thought HEY nice price! And if it wouldn't have been an ebay store I might have given it a try. But now I see how he picks on people for no reason at all I’m glad I didn't do business with him.

To knifes-edge: Don't you wonder why the maker of the j head light hotend Keith aka Robert_Paulson (and many other aka's) is not thinking along with you and finds it more important to attack someone who makes very good hodends?
I'm not sure what's going on here....

Fitting bowden to j-had light can be done like MarkSthephen did on his SmartRap.
Or if the hotend design allows it, you could tap a thread in the top to mount a push fit?
To be safe i would recommend Mark's also because it works good for him.

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knife-edge
Yes please guys. I an still just trying to find the best way to fit a Bowden tube to a jhead light 2.1

I have a deal for you.
If you pay the postage I will give you a new Genie hotend Mk1, with a set of nozzles, 0.3mm, 0.4mm and 0.5mm. With a 100K thermistor, all the extra fittings so you can use it with other models if you choose to make a different machine at a later date, and some spare PTFE tube, just in case. It will also be fitted with a Bowden connection and I will give you an additional connection for the other end.

I am doing this so you can have a quality hotend and no more dramas.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2014 07:15PM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Reg is there something I would need to do in return?

I'm interested in that deal.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/08/2014 05:49PM by knife-edge.

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knife-edge
Reg is there something I would need to do in return?

I'm interested in that deal.

No conditions, just use it and enjoy it.
If you find it useful you may want to let others know.

PM me for sending details of your address for postage.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Sounds like a plan Reg. Ill either PM or email you soon. I sincerely appreciate the offer and will make sure to document the process of setting it up and using it.

Thanks again,
Griffin of Knife-Edge Designs

Reg is way to good for this world.

You are going to be the owner of a wonderful hot-end! (may i say top-class?)