New "old" SmartRap Build

Hi, my name is Phillip and I recently purchased a SmartRap kit that was unsuccessfully built and may have broken/missing parts. I am looking forward to resurrecting this as my first kit 3d printer. I have a working Da Vinci 1.0 that I've modified to print both PLA and ABS. I would like assistance identifying which version of the SmartRap this is so that I can locate assembly instructions as well as any recommendations for updates/upgrades to incorporate. I should receive the printer kit as well as a new Arduino Mega by the end of the week.

Saw this on ebay and I regretted not bidding on it. But very nice get!!! I would suggest that you just print out the parts for the current Smartrap and buy some 6mm smooth rod and lm6uu bearings. I don't believe serge makes files for the 8mm smooth rods anymore so it would be a worthwhile investment. Then you can run a gt2 belt setup which is way more efficient and in my opinion accurate. Do you know what brand the hotend is? And are you completely sure that the arduino board is completely dead? Could've just blown a regulator. I just finished my smartrap build as my first reprap and I loved it. It was super easy. I'd be happy to help or you have any more questions along the way.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2015 07:32AM by knife-edge.

Previous owner didn't include an arduino. Once I receive, I'll try to identify the hot-end. Was there a technical reason for going to 6mm vice 8mm rods?

I believe the STL files on the smartfriendz thingiverse page (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:177256) accomodate 8mm rods and bearings as stated in the bill of material. MakerCoast printed parts for me that encompass both 8MM and 6MM rods, which I believe makes the printer revision 0.4.9.2. From what I have been told, earlier versions, i.e. 4.6 use all 8MM rods and bearings.

For the printed parts, are there any that would be better printed in ABS or PLA? I haven't much experience with PLA since the stock Da Vinci is ABS only and I just recently replaced the extruder/hot-end and firmware to support PLA.

Either PLA or ABS will be fine on the Smartrap.

The issue of the rod size comes up often these days. Serge changed to a 6 mm rod in more recent versions. It makes the X and Y axis lighter but it makes it more difficult to source for some and in terms or pricing (as least at my wholesale prices) there isn't really a difference in the cost. There are STLs in the current repo for 8 mm builds. I've got it on the list to build an 8 mm version and see if using smaller rods makes that much of a difference in performance.

I purchased my 8mm and 6mm rods at McMaster Carr for between $4.50 and $6.00 each. Robotdigg has both bearing sizes reasonably priced as well. I was able to cut the rods using a hacksaw and a wooden jig making the cuts nice and even.

Jose

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/07/2015 09:33PM by rcjoseb.

Received it today. Still waiting on the arduino and gt2 belts/rollers. Missing a few nuts/bolts. I printed the 2 8mm STL plates from the Github. Still trying to figure out what else is needed. The hot-end appears to be a generic j-head, .3 nozzle. It looks like it will be a smaller build, the rods are 240mm (4) and 295 mm (2) all 8mm. I plan to start piecing it together tomorrow. A little unclear how to set up the bowden tube at the stepper motor but I'm sure Google will help figure it out. Still pretty excited.

I would also reprint the extruder. It light be worn down and it's not fun to have to throw away a print because your extruder breaks (ask me how I know).

Recieved the smartrap, new mega, and gt2 pulleys/belts. I'm reprinting parts now. Printed in ABS and they were a little too snug on the bearings/rods and I cracked a few putting together. Suspect the ABS I was using shrunk too much. Reprinting everything at 103% and 40% infill. I'll see how that works out. I installed firmware and tested the motors out. Everything seems to work. I thought the baud rate was supposed to be 250000 according to the directions but the firmware has that value commented out and 115200 set. Switching the baud rate worked. I think I may have the limit switches wired or connected incorrectly but pretty sure I can get that straightened out before my prints are ready. I'm using a modified ATX power supply, a netbook with Crunchbang Linux as the OS. I plan to go with the servo-less design for now with the J-head clone and GT2 belts. Most of the assembly appears straightforward but I'm not sure if the j-head mount is the same as j-head lite. Also the STL I printed from the github for the hotend mount doesn't appear to have a place to mount the limit switch. If anyone has that type of setup, I would really appreciate seeing a close-up of how everything connects at the hot-end.

The stl files that I'm confused about are the endx_jhead files. The build instructions only show the Huxley and the J-head lite. Also, there is a directdrive_extra_support.stl that I'm not sure if I need or where it goes. Thank you.

My printer wouldn't connect in Pronterface with the baudrate of 1152000. I just changed it to the other and it worked fine. Also i see files for both the jhead, jhead lite, and Huxley. It should be a similar setup as to the jhead lite.

For switch enabled bed leveling, the proper STL files are located on thingiverse [www.thingiverse.com] however they are for the huxley and jhead lite. If you have a standard jhead or a jhead MK5 model, you can try this one [www.thingiverse.com]. It supports switch bed leveling and may fit the standard jhead.

Started assembly today and found issues with the newly printed parts. specifically the 8mm files from the git-hub. The bearing holders don't seem to align with the end plates for the y axis. Quick inspection shows the bearing holders at front aren't parallel to the rear bearing holders. I'm going to scrub the stl files to verify they are good and then try re-printing.

Quick inspection shows the 8mm version for the y-base plate doesn't have adjustable screw holes for the mount to the stepper. Should be a relatively easy fix.

You can find here jhead and aluhotend holders.

I am considering giving up on the 8mm version. I am having alignment problems/construction issues with the baseplate, x_plate, and y_plate as well as gt2 belt clearances. I tried overlaying the 6mm and 8mm versions and it appears that there are quite a few differences besides just the rod/bearing sizes/holes. Is there a history file with previous 8mm versions available? I'm willing to try the spectra line versions. Thanks.

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prpickett
I am considering giving up on the 8mm version. I am having alignment problems/construction issues with the baseplate, x_plate, and y_plate as well as gt2 belt clearances. I tried overlaying the 6mm and 8mm versions and it appears that there are quite a few differences besides just the rod/bearing sizes/holes. Is there a history file with previous 8mm versions available? I'm willing to try the spectra line versions. Thanks.

I have built several versions of the SmatrtRap, and out of all of them, this one was the very best.

[forums.reprap.org]

The files are available on my website for free download.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

SmartRap 4.6 Files 8mm rods

I had to split it into two separate RAR files to be able to attach them.

SmartRap4_6-1.rar

SmartRap4_6-2.rar

Reg,
Is this the 3rd smartrap build? I'm having trouble finding the stl files. I saw the extruder ones, the wide y axis, and some awesome chess pieces.

MadMike,
Thank you. Worst case, I can use this with the thingivers GT2 mod, just need to get some 625 bearings..

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/15/2015 06:59PM by prpickett.

Yeah, if you look at my thread I did a GT2 belt conversion that was pretty easy and worked well...

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madmike8
SmartRap 4.6 Files 8mm rods

I had to split it into two separate RAR files to be able to attach them.

Bloody beautiful!

Quote
prpickett
Reg,
Is this the 3rd smartrap build? I'm having trouble finding the stl files. I saw the extruder ones, the wide y axis, and some awesome chess pieces.

.

I have emailed you the full set

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Could I get a copy of those too... sent ya a PM

Mike M

I've gotten everything assembled and tested but I am having an issue with the z-offset and auto-leveling. I think I have correctly set the z offset by setting the head a paper thickness from the glass and then determining the position when the limit switch just activates based upon this post by MadMike [forums.reprap.org] . When I try starting a print, it goes through the auto-leveling but it doesn't retract the servo after the last point and starts extruding above the bed. It may be due to the limit switch still being down. Here is the start g-code I put in Slic3r:
G1 Z10.0 F500 ;ensures probe have enough clearance
M400 ;Wait for clearance
M401;deploy probe
G28 X0 Y0;Home X and Y Axis
G90; Set to Absolute Positioning
G29; Probe the bed
G1 Z10.0 F500;Clearance for retraction
M400 ;Wait for cearance
M280 P0 S0;Retract probe
M400;wait
G1 X10 Y10 Z10; Moves close to origin and await proper temp

Any advice? Thanks.

Issues fixed. Replace the M280 line with M402 and I had neglected the "-" sign on the z offset. Now I just have to work on getting PLA to stick to an unheated bed while I await Reg's hotend to replace the J-head clone.

PLA will stick very well into an unheated piece of glass if you lay down a good first layer. Elmer's purple glue stick also works really well but the final print can be a little hard to get off.

Quote
prpickett
Issues fixed. Replace the M280 line with M402 and I had neglected the "-" sign on the z offset. Now I just have to work on getting PLA to stick to an unheated bed while I await Reg's hotend to replace the J-head clone.

A good thick coating of PVA wood glue works well on a cool bed.
Make sure that it is completely dry before using it, the colour should change from a white colour to a clear colour.
Prints stick well to this surface and can be used many times before stripping off and replacing again.
Your parcel should be arriving very soon, it was posted over two weeks ago.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I'm glad you got it going. I use the Elmer's stick glue, but I heard good things about reg's method.

Had success with both glue stick and wood glue thinned with 2x water. Glue stick worked too well, I thought I was going to break something trying to get the part off. Now that I have 2 glass plates set up with the PVA glue, I may stick with that rather than adding a heated bed. The hot-end is the biggest problem right now. I haven't had success with anything above a speed of 30. I still need to do a temp. calibration print but 205 C seems to be the sweet spot with my current filament. I've been printing these at 75% ( [www.thingiverse.com] ) based upon some requests from my wife's 5th grade class. Come out pretty well except for the strings. I just cut them off since even when they come out good, one strum and they snap.