New very precise Z probe

Since I was never satisfied with existing solutions for probing the bed for autoleveling I designed a new mechanism that seems to be very precise and its not affected by bed surface or dirty hot end nozzle. This mechanism is under testing and will be available in near future.





[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/31/2015 07:04PM by ldanut.

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[www.build3dparts.com]
[www.3dhubs.com]

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ldanut
Since I was never satisfied with existing solutions for probing the bed for autoleveling I designed a new mechanism that seems to be very precise and its not affected by bed surface or dirty hot end nozzle. This mechanism is under testing and will be available in near future.

[attachment 48233 IMG_4248.JPG]

[attachment 48234 IMG_4252.JPG]

[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

That is a very nice mechanism and could also be used for the hall effect sensor as well.

I am wondering why you are using blue tape on a glass bed, there is a much better method of printing onto glass if it is heated.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Yes also I will have a Hall sensor version next. I have ordered customized PBC for hall sensor that is only 20x20mm small and will fit perfectly there.

On my delta printers I use PEI as a bed substrate and works great. No more coating and messy stuff. This is a printer for someone that wants to print with blue tape and this is how I tested. The problem before was that the tip of hot end was making a hole into blue take and measured wrong Z offset.

What method do you use on printing on the glass? That white glue thing diluted with water?

Quote
ldanut
Yes also I will have a Hall sensor version next. I have ordered customized PBC for hall sensor that is only 20x20mm small and will fit perfectly there.

On my delta printers I use PEI as a bed substrate and works great. No more coating and messy stuff. This is a printer for someone that wants to print with blue tape and this is how I tested. The problem before was that the tip of hot end was making a hole into blue take and measured wrong Z offset.

What method do you use on printing on the glass? That white glue thing diluted with water?

I have tried all the tapes, glues and hair-sprays, and out of all that I have tried over the last five years, the very best is just sugar and water.
Mix up a little water with some sugar, heat it in a microwave to make it become soluble easier. It should look like thin honey when ready.
Put a very small amount in the centre of the glass and spit on it and then rub it all over the glass to form a thin even layer. (there seems to be something in spit that works a treat)
Tip: Don't use too much, a little goes a long way, but it should be well covered all over the glass.
Heat up the glass as normal, and print.
The print will stick down like you wouldn't believe and is very hard to remove, until you let the bed cool down.When cool, the part will have fallen off by itself. You are then ready to print again and again.
I use several glass plates so that I can just change to another one while the first plate is cooling down (10 minutes max)

Why don't you just try it and then you will know how good it is. It doesn't cost anything really and works the very best.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

I never herd about this but sounds very interesting. I will definetly try it. Thanks. I like the fact that you don't have to reapply before each print.

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[www.build3dparts.com]
[www.3dhubs.com]

Quote
ldanut
I never herd about this but sounds very interesting. I will definetly try it. Thanks. I like the fact that you don't have to reapply before each print.

You should be able to get at least a dozen good prints using this method before clean off with water. Just apply again and away you go.
I have had as many as 20 prints off the one coating, but it is important to let it cool before removing the part printed, or you will lift off the sugar coating and wont get as many prints from the same coating.
Two glasses or more makes life very easy, and glass is cheap. I use standard window glass, no need to use the expensive borosilicate glass.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Do you use PLA or ABS? For PLA normal glass is ok since its only 60-70degree but for ABS at 110degree the regular glass can crack very easy from temperature variation.

I have mainly used PLA, but ABS works too.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

After some testing I can say the probe is working flawlessly. You can find the building details and a firmware that works with it at my home page: [build3dparts.com]

Also if you are interested in an assembly manual for my version of smartrap you can find it here: [build3dparts.com]

Quote
ldanut
Do you use PLA or ABS? For PLA normal glass is ok since its only 60-70degree but for ABS at 110degree the regular glass can crack very easy from temperature variation.

Lots of Ormerod users print ABS on ordinary float glass. The Ormerod has a 1.5mm aluminium heat spreader plate between the heater PCB and the glass, which helps to ensure an even temperature.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

it's very nice job idanut.. the level system..and the rest congrats. I should try this system. i still have a lot of servos, so its nice to use them

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the Smartrap project

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doc assemblage: [reprap.org]
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smartfriendz
it's very nice job idanut.. the level system..and the rest congrats. I should try this system. i still have a lot of servos, so its nice to use them

Yes I agree,a very nice job.
I have gone back to servos too, but I am using long reach tactile switches instead of the micro switch. '
The tactile is much smaller, more accurate and has a very much smaller probe tip that is easier to set-up.
Have used it now on at least a dozen machines and all have been perfect.
Tactile switches need to have the logic reverses in Marlin, that is the only change as far as the set up is concerned.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Thanks ... I'm looking forward for feedback from people that are using it so i can improve it. Also i have a version for Hall sensors but use custom small footprint PCB.

Quote
ldanut
After some testing I can say the probe is working flawlessly.

Have you done some repeatability tests on the probe system?
It would be very interesting.

I haven't done but I can do it so we can have a better picture. My tests involved printing a lot and see if I need to recalibrate the Z offset after few prints as it happened before. I didn't have to recalibrate the Z offset at all. Whats the best way to do repeatability tests? Just do few times G29 and see the values from console?

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[www.build3dparts.com]
[www.3dhubs.com]

Nah. It's M48, I think.

Quote
ldanut
I haven't done but I can do it so we can have a better picture. My tests involved printing a lot and see if I need to recalibrate the Z offset after few prints as it happened before. I didn't have to recalibrate the Z offset at all. Whats the best way to do repeatability tests? Just do few times G29 and see the values from console?

From my experience, the micro switches need to be recalibrated after a while of use, the arm seems to bend a little and throw the accuracy out. I went to using the tactile switch with the long button and so far have had no problems at all.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Are the files for this mod posted anywhere?

Thanks,

Jonathan

Link to idanut's page with STL's.

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duranza
Are the files for this mod posted anywhere?

Thanks,

Jonathan

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duranza
Are the files for this mod posted anywhere?

Thanks,

Jonathan

The servo arm file for the tactile switch is here

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Thank you guys. My slide system while it works good. It is not as sturdy as this..

I have a few old optical sensors from a regular paper printer I took apart awhile back along with the steel rod (3mm, not the recommended 2.5mm). Will these sensors work (granted if I figure out the wire configuration)? [i.imgur.com]

i did the same once but i had to add couple of resistors on the wires and worked fine

could i use 9g servo like [www.ebay.co.uk] be used

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daveb693
could i use 9g servo like [www.ebay.co.uk] be used

That will fit just fine

You will need a 3.7g servo motor like this. The 9g servo I think its too big.

I checked and 9g is 23*12.2*29mm and 3.7g is 22 x 11.5 x 27 mm so you can't use your model.

I used a 9g on mine. Just had to file down the wings on the servo where you bolt it down

thanks for your fast response
btw ive modified plastic stopper so it can be adjusted from the front and makes it easier for me to adjust

Nice idea ... thanks for sharing.