Ikea SmartRapCore

This idea came to my mind after having advised my son to modify an Ikea kitchen cabinet for his current project instead of ordering mdf-sheets from the lumberyard.

The kitchen cabinets could hold a large SmartRapCore at least 500mm*500mm*500mm!

Any takers?

When not in use, just another cabinet in the workshop :-)

I don't like unanswered posts so here's my 2c on this. The title would suggest that many (all?) parts being sourced from Ikea so if only the cabinet is going to be used thenit's not much of an Ikea 3d printer.

I can see the following parts being sourced from Ikea:
- box (kitchen cabinet, etc ... many options here)
- bed (the wood and the glass)
- LedStrips to make it cool
- Chopping Board for slippery plastic (slider/carriage for the axes)
- anything else?

I can see more Deltas being easier to build off off ikea parts. There are already some frames made of ikea drawers. Slap on some Kvartal triple curtain rail and maybe even the effector rods can be made of broken apart LÄMPLIG Trivet -it's quite springy so I don't know how well suited this is but hey, it comes close to an all-IKEA 3d printer.

I would be curious to see a corexy with most parts off ikea.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2015 08:04PM by realthor.

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Hi guys,

For a SmartRapCore frame or to replace any DIY frame, why not ?
But could it be better than a 19mm MDF DIY frame ? Probably not...

But make the good choices.
Probably most of what you can hack from Ikea should be most expensive
than to source perfect components from online shops.
Beware of wrong good ideas.

++JM

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/16/2015 05:29AM by J-Max.

Depends on where you live. Of course hardware store plywood and online bought linear suff/ steppers will be the cheapest.

I for one can't find cheap aluminum extrusions in Finland and the Ikea Kvartal is the cheapest option I can see. Even square ALU tube in the harware store is 8.75Eur/m. 1.4m of Kvartal triple curtain rail goes for 14, 10 if you find it at the "returned" section.

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I keep coming back to my idea of using Kvartal triple curtain rail for a Delta configuration (I don't know if cartesian can be don with that maybe yes).
I have to get my hands on some Tribo filament from igus to print the exact "bearing" for that particular profile.

Maybe some of you haven't seen this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Oy3asmR6oI

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Hi guys,

I tryed the Tribo filament when it was released several months ago.
It's a pretty good material indeed. I keep my spool preciously, and print only for purpose because it's pretty expensive.

Anyways, there's few advices for people who want to make sliding parts with it.
Don't try to make the whole part with Tribo. Print a flange and insert some Tribo sliding pads.
The better is to add an adjustment system for preloading the pads.
This could be simple screws pushing from behind.

The surface you get printing Tribo on glass or smooth buildplate is what you want to slide well.
If you need precision, don't try to print wheels or complex shapes, this won't be good enough.
I tryed to wrap a thin Tribo plate on a custom smooth rod, making several turns over the rod,
then hold it with tube clamps before to warm up the rod with a heatgun at about 180°C.
I get a very nice custom bushing, close to perfection.

Note Tribo pads runs pretty well on aluminium extrusions.
A 15x30x2mm is probably cheaper than Ikea rails.

Oh, I forget to say you can print some RJMP/RJ4JP alike bushings (models are here)¨.
But you'll need to drill them with a fat bit to get a perfect hole. Then smooth the inside quickly with a small gaz torch.

++JM

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/2015 09:15AM by J-Max.

Quote
J-Max
Don't try to make the whole part with Tribo. Print a flange and insert some Tribo sliding pads.
The better is to add an adjustment system for preloading the pads.
This could be simple screws pushing from behind.

That is very good advice.

Quote
J-Max
A 15x30x2mm is probably cheaper than Ikea rails.

In this area 1.4m ikea triple rail is 14.99Eur and 1m 25x25x1.5 is 8.95Eur. And the Ikea rail seems sturdier (for having much more surfaces) and is surely straighter -that is a guess. Anyways it is better suited for a Delta like I said. For cartesian square tubing is good enough. I don't think they are linear enough ti just print a square bearing on it.

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Hi,


A 6000x15x30x2mm cost about 20€ here it's 3.50€ for 1 metre.
Prices are realy different here. As you're paying in € too, what's your area ?

++JM

Finland. Probably the most expensive country in this world ... not good to be delegated long-term here. And it's already soo dark outside )

BTW: no wonder why I got so much resistance for not using extrusions. I envy guys that can build Vulcanuses, FuseBoxes or G&C Printers.
Well.. I'll go with what I have.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/26/2015 06:39PM by realthor.

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Hi,

I realy love northern countries. It's not as bad as you think.
There's a particular ambiance and nice people.
I went someday in Russia near Finish border.
I love Norway and plan to visit Sweden soon.

Did you try motedis.com ? The prices are pretty descent, and there's some choice.
I know they ship in Sweden, maybe they can push to Finland ?

++JM

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/27/2015 08:43AM by J-Max.

I'm telling you... most expensive country in the world:



So 16Eur the 5m of extrusion and 29Eur transport. Bad deal. I'll stick with Ikea/Hardware store parts for now. It is funny, if i'd be in Romania, my home country, it would be a lot cheaper.

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I was actually searching for something like this. I have a Smartrap, but it currently uses all plastic parts and fishing line for the X/Y axis. Precision has never been its strong point and as such I have had to use slow speeds. Also, because of the plastic design, I can't have a higher Z dimension as the higher it goes, the greater the torque on the mount for the Z rods. What I am thinking of, the Minimax.

[www.ikea.com]

$20 for a 55" piece of essentially T-slot extrusions. You need one piece (most likely cut out of the 55" piece) for the Z axis. One piece for the X axis, with a hole through the center channel to fit in a nut for the Z threaded rod. Two pieces of metal to mount the X-axis to a moving mount onto the Z axis. You can use a piece for the bottom base, making this shape [ (though the top the bottom come further out). Then one last piece for the Y axis. Just like the Minimax, you can use gears and belts to drive X and Y. The only issue I have had with this idea is the wheels for the extruded aluminum pieces. I have a curtain of theirs and the plastic wheels that come with them, are terrible and offer no degree of precision. As you can see for the pics on their side, one side has three channels that create two v section where you can nicely fit some wheels in. The back section has a slotted section, but most importantly, has a flat section walled off at the edges by short ridges. In essence you can fit two V-wheels on one end, and two square wheels on the other side.

If anyone has a triple rail, and some delrin V wheels, single and/or double, check if the fit with the channels of the rails. I'm not sure the gap between the double V peaks are wide enough, but if they are, maybe one double at mid-center can have each V sitting in the V's of the rails. That plus single V's in the back, flush against the edge walls, should provide adequate lateral support.

It is always sparking up the interest when someone says has a printer Any links to pictures/videos/blog about that one? Is it fishing line's fault for lack in precision? Is it tensioned enough? I am interested in spectra being used in current 3d printers. Do you want to use belt in the IKEA contraption you are visualizing or will you keep the spectra?

I don't have any Delrin wheels I was thinking of using Tribo filament to print some pieces that would be made exactly for this profile. Maybe someone else can help...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/03/2015 04:01AM by realthor.

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