Hi,
As from 2014 I started to develop and build my own 3D Delta printer. At this moment my little guy is doing exactly where he was build for, printing nice objects and it let me test all kind of new things I like to develop.
I named the printer D16_Ebot. see attachment as a picture and also the 3D pdf file. (Double click in the picture and you will be enabled to lookup the printer from all directions as well as with the help of the parts list tree, hiding and un-hiding parts and sub assy's.)
A video with the D16_Ebot in action: see
Video D16_EBOT
The D16_Ebot has a heated bed of 230 mm whereof 200 mm in use; the print height is 230 mm but is in fact only limited by the length of the used poles.
In the video I do show an inductive heated bed what is still under development and not part of the Delta printer design project.
For the electronics I have used a BeagleBone Black rev.C and a controller board BeBoPr++
Because I was used to the software LinuxCNC that is around for many years including a huge user group, I did used also this time LinuxCNC (Machinekit)
If I build again a printer, and I will, I will use a smoothieboard.
The maximum speed tested for still decent prints is 80mm/sec for 1.75mm filament. More tests will follow.
The poles are "Silver-steel D=16mm"
The base and the top is 18mm MDF
The effector and vertical slider blocks are Nylon
The 6 aluminum parallel arms have a diameter of 12 and are 296 long center to center with 10mm balls
A pull spring keeps all together in the D=10mm joints like your own elbows are hold together; 100% backlash free.
Magnets will do the job too but at a crash with your hot end, all arms will fly around. A magnet will loose all forces after 1 mm detach, a pull spring does increase his force, trying to keep all in place, again like your own elbow.
The heated bed on 3 Points and a tempered glass plate or an aluminum Alcoa casted plate. A aluminum cold rolled plate doesn't work, .. no that's the problem, ... it works all the time.
If you keep yourself strict to the theory of how to positioning a plane and respect elongation factors for aluminum in you design, an aluminum plate is the way to go. There is no need for an auto leveling system at all. That honors also my advice, "do things right the first time"; it eliminates a fix like a leveling system.
Talk to you later where I will go in detail and will post all basic drawings and parts list.
Have a good one
Edited 7 time(s). Last edit at 02/27/2016 03:59PM by evandene.
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