Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY.
Posted by zelogik
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 09, 2014 09:39PM |
Thanks cnc dick. I'm thinking of changing to 1.75 mm filament anyway...
Dejay, my extrusions are 500 mm long so I'm not sure how something 1m or longer will behave. As for a tensioner, here is mine. A very sophisticated cable tie.
Dejay, my extrusions are 500 mm long so I'm not sure how something 1m or longer will behave. As for a tensioner, here is mine. A very sophisticated cable tie.
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 10, 2014 03:05PM |
Finally to restart spoke about the topic of my printer :-)
I have found the solution problem!
It's was not belt, not pulley, not frame, not gap, just Igus bush!!
I have put a droplet of oil on the rod and MAGIC !!! no more backlash
It's was a stick-slip problem.
So good new
I have found the solution problem!
It's was not belt, not pulley, not frame, not gap, just Igus bush!!
I have put a droplet of oil on the rod and MAGIC !!! no more backlash
It's was a stick-slip problem.So good new
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 10, 2014 05:08PM |
Quote
zelogik
I have put a droplet of oil on the rod and MAGIC !!! no more backlash
_ _ _ _
__ ___ _ _ __ _ _ _ __ _| |_ _ _| |__ _| |_(_)___ _ _ ___
/ _/ _ \ ' \/ _` | '_/ _` | _| || | / _` | _| / _ \ ' \(_-<
\__\___/_||_\__, |_| \__,_|\__|\_,_|_\__,_|\__|_\___/_||_/__/
|___/
Fairy-oil-recipes
Regards
Reinhold
... "iglidur® polymer bearings - No lubrication required - igus.de - Reduce cost. Increase life."
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 10, 2014 06:30PM |
Quote
zelogik
I have put a droplet of oil on the rod and MAGIC !!! no more backlash
You think the igus bushing was squished too tight or regularly by the printed enclosure?
Would it be better to always use the aluminium encased igus bushings?
Thanks and sorry for derailing your thread a bit
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 11, 2014 03:35PM |
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marcossf
(corexy) I will upload some photos when it be done..
YES Marcos please do ...if you have enough material open a new thread ... and let us know where we find it.
.
Don't worry! - We are here to reprap, not to give "grades for english (american)?"Quote
(I know, my english suck... Sorry).
...but if you need your grade: "you sound perfectly understandable to me - I want to read more of that!!!"
Regards
Reinhold
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/11/2014 03:36PM by Reinhold.
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 11, 2014 04:11PM |
Waiting on parts is torture.
XY stage is done.
Need parts to finalize Z.
- akhlut
Just remember - Iterate, Iterate, Iterate!
[myhomelessmind.blogspot.com]
XY stage is done.
Need parts to finalize Z.
- akhlut
Just remember - Iterate, Iterate, Iterate!
[myhomelessmind.blogspot.com]
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 13, 2014 02:20PM |
Quote
Reinhold
YES Marcos please do ...if you have enough material open a new thread ... and let us know where we find it.
My design are on early stage, I just begin to build the chasis.
Next will be the Igus linear motion rails for Y and Z that I'm waiting for. And it's so much to do then (probably redesign/adapt the parts accuratelly to movements and gaps).
Here are some photos:
Sorry Jand and Zelogik for the off topic invasion
I will open a new topic when my corexy be more visible.Thank you all
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 20, 2014 01:34PM |
Quote
Dejay
Hey Marcossf, that frame looks pretty cool. How is that drylin Q carriage working out? It's pretty expensive on motedis.com, is there cheaper sources for something like that?
I'm been thinking about making a modified version of Johann's linear motion carriage with recirculating delrin / acetal spheres, so that it encapsulates a standard extrusion. The spheres would cost about 3$ for 100 and you would need 80 for four recirculating paths. That would even be cheaper than 4 or 6 wheels per extrusion. It should be reasonably precise as long as the main path where the spheres roll along is precise.
The drylin Q act as X-Carriage. It support 2 hotends E3D v6 in front face (upgradeable to direct extruder), on top face the bowden tubes, chain guide and cable quick connectors. On back, the CoreXY belt retainers, layer fan duct support and the autolevel system. Down it is a led light.
On Y-axis will be 2 Drylin NK27, and Drylin W + 2 leads screw on Z-Axis. All bought directly to Igus.
It isn't cheap at all, but it will be robust and reliable. All printed parts will be done on aluminium CNC, I think that not be called reprap anymore.
Pando855: Yo tambien soy de España
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. June 20, 2014 04:28PM |
Why would you want to use an M10 threaded rod ? (instead of M8)Quote
pando855
M8 to M10
M10 would make z-resolution a lot worse and even an M6 rod (1mm/turn) can carry the load we expect here (no will, I'm using one)
(M6 1mm/turn M8 1.25mm/turn M10 1.5mm/turn)
The bearing Jand specifies is 608 ZZ (2Z) with (8x22x7 mm), it can carry 960N static and 2.4kN dynamic !
If you want something "better" use M6 or an Acme screw (tornillo Acme, Trapezgewindespindel) or a ball screw (tornillo de la bola, Kugelumlaufspindel)
... if I remember correctly jand was even proposing something like that somewhere.
In all cases you would need CAD redesign of around 5-6 parts of his z-stage...
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/20/2014 04:48PM by Reinhold.
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. July 02, 2014 04:38PM |
Thanks to the very nice parts design Zelogic and jand did share on this topic.
I am at the completion stage on my machine.
What I can say allready is the bed système is very stiff, the CoreXY part doest take lot of space, and I am going to be abble to print full size object I scan.
The conception
is high level.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2014 02:53PM by ybm.
I am at the completion stage on my machine.
What I can say allready is the bed système is very stiff, the CoreXY part doest take lot of space, and I am going to be abble to print full size object I scan.
The conception
Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/04/2014 02:53PM by ybm.
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. July 05, 2014 04:41AM |
Another zelogik/jand based printer. Almost complete, still waiting for a few bits and pieces to turn up, but initial prints are looking very good.
Using a vertical x-axis, and also a tr10x2 leadscrew
Using a vertical x-axis, and also a tr10x2 leadscrew
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. July 11, 2014 01:16PM |
One question to all of you
Where to buy shoulder screws (4mm and 5mm shoulder diameter and 25 mm shoulder long)?? I was unable to find everywhere and also its hard to find on internet.
Where to buy shoulder screws (4mm and 5mm shoulder diameter and 25 mm shoulder long)?? I was unable to find everywhere and also its hard to find on internet.
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. July 12, 2014 05:54PM |
Quote
marcossf
One question to all of you
Where to buy shoulder screws (4mm and 5mm shoulder diameter and 25 mm shoulder long)?? I was unable to find everywhere and also its hard to find on internet.
Misumi or mcmaster
- akhlut
Just remember - Iterate, Iterate, Iterate!
[myhomelessmind.blogspot.com]
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. July 22, 2014 06:08PM |
Hi there,
Thought I would add to the list of people building one of these.
I'm reusing 300mm extrusion I had left over from a failed build, and have printed some corner brackets instead of using expensive mounting hardware.
I'm still waiting for my F624 bearings to arrive from China. Because of my shortened aluminium lengths I am going to have to redesign the z-stage, and was thinking of going down the belt route. Has anyone used a pulley system to increase the resolution of a belted z-stage?
Best Wishes
Conoral11
Thought I would add to the list of people building one of these.
I'm reusing 300mm extrusion I had left over from a failed build, and have printed some corner brackets instead of using expensive mounting hardware.
I'm still waiting for my F624 bearings to arrive from China. Because of my shortened aluminium lengths I am going to have to redesign the z-stage, and was thinking of going down the belt route. Has anyone used a pulley system to increase the resolution of a belted z-stage?
Best Wishes
Conoral11
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Re: Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY. July 23, 2014 07:15AM |
This is great , I come back from hollidays and see a few people building printers. Keep up the good work
@Conoral11: Maybe look around in the Ingentis and Eustathios Builders Community. (Google+ group) You may get some Ideas for a Z-Axis there. I think Ingentis has belt Z-axis.
@sdavi Nice Vertical X-axis you made, What X and Y ranges do you get with it? I guess X will be more or less the same.
This reminds me I should make the Z-motor mounts a little smaller. That would give us a few extra milliliters in Y direction.
@ybm: you mention the stiffness of the Z-system. I had some doubts at the beginning about the cantilever system, but I can also confirm the stiffness of the Z-axis. I am very pleased with it.
I can't see it in your picture, but did you use my parts for the Z-axis or did you modify them?
@Conoral11: Maybe look around in the Ingentis and Eustathios Builders Community. (Google+ group) You may get some Ideas for a Z-Axis there. I think Ingentis has belt Z-axis.
@sdavi Nice Vertical X-axis you made
, What X and Y ranges do you get with it? I guess X will be more or less the same.This reminds me I should make the Z-motor mounts a little smaller. That would give us a few extra milliliters in Y direction.
@ybm: you mention the stiffness of the Z-system. I had some doubts at the beginning about the cantilever system, but I can also confirm the stiffness of the Z-axis. I am very pleased with it.
I can't see it in your picture, but did you use my parts for the Z-axis or did you modify them?
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