Atfer Hbot, go to CoreXY.

Have redesigned my XY Blocks and X Carriage now.

Have also ordered some better 10mm rods for the X and some TR10x2 Trapezoidal Leadscrews and nuts and have also decided to change the Corner upright Extrusion's to 45x45mm at 1 mtr long.
This will allow me to lift everthing up a little to allow for the Z Axis motor and electronics below and additional room above everything for the Bowden Extruders etc, Will also allow for a 400x400x500 build volume.
And then to be able to keep everything within the main frame and put covers on it all to create a heat box.

Still not decided on electronics yet but do have a ramps-FD shield on order along with 8825 driver modules to fit on a DUE board (Which I can get locally for not a lot of money).

Will post more photos once these bits arrive and get fitted!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/09/2014 03:54AM by dougal1957.

Hi, i was designing my own corexy till i ran across this one. Looks a lot like mine. This is a great machine, zelogik. So i will make one . Saves me a lot of time (the parts are already made in freecad). Thanks jand,

I have a few questions: Why are the two bearings on the idler-block not on top of each other? like here:



is the y-axis mounting strong enough? Because i believe it isn't fixed anywhere, it is only slided in the end blocks.

Hello,

The two bearings are not on top each other only for one reason. If the idler pulley and the motor pulley don't have the same diameter your drawing don't work well.

My design have the advantage of: You can change only the motor pulley size, have teeth idler pulley or only put "flat" bearing pulley on each idler. WITHOUT calculate/change idler/pulley axis. (don't know if anybody can understand my sentence here ....)

For your last question ... all block corner are fixed on the aluminium profile. Or maybe I don't have understood your question.

@gforce1 Like Zelogik mentioned the motor blocks and idler blocks are fixed to the aluminium profiles. Only the smooth rods are not fixated by a screw. It is just a tight fit.(at least in the plastic parts, not sure about the alu parts) It will not move. You can't rotate / slide the rod by hand.

I don't know if it is strong enough in the long term. Up-to now I printed about 2Kg of ABS with my printer and no sign of wear

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/10/2014 03:59PM by jand.

Thanks guys. I ment the smooth rods.

I was thinking, if i mount the heatbed on a corexy system also and reverse the direction of it. So it travels opposit the extruder corexy then the printspeed will be twice the normal speed. You only have to adjust your travelsteps because rhe distance will be double. Is this possible?

@ZeologiK & @JanD

Have you guys done any Speed benchmarking yet Would like to know What sort of Max print speed you are getting.

Got my Trapezoidal Leadscrews delivered today 3 off 1mtr long TR10x2 Screwed rods and 3 off Hexagonal Nuts for them for cost of Eur 10.50 per pair so 31.50 for all 3 which I think is very good (from DOLD).

Waiting on a few more bits and I can continue my build.

Doug

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/11/2014 12:11PM by dougal1957.

@Doug I did not do a real speed test to figure out the max speed. I normally print at 60 to 80 mm/s. I once did a test at 100 mm/s which gives acceptable results as you can see in this video [youtu.be]
You can see some images of the result of this test here: [imgur.com]

I guess the max speed will be around 120 mm/s in this configuration, that is with a gregs extruder on the carriage.
When you use a bowden system it will probably go faster. This is on my to-do list

Quote
jand
@Doug I did not do a real speed test to figure out the max speed. I normally print at 60 to 80 mm/s. I once did a test at 100 mm/s which gives acceptable results as you can see in this video [youtu.be]
You can see some images of the result of this test here: [imgur.com]

I guess the max speed will be around 120 mm/s in this configuration, that is with a gregs extruder on the carriage.
When you use a bowden system it will probably go faster. This is on my to-do list

@JanD

Thanks Jan yes I see what you mean I am hoping to get somewhere near to 150 mm/s and I will be fitting a E3D Kraken which will have upto 4 hot ends in it in a very small size (40x35x20 for the block plus a little for the nozzles and heater blocks say another 20mm or so) this should make for a very light 4 extruder system.

I have also ordered some more Extrusion for my 4 uprights and have gone for 45x45 at 1 mtr long which will allow me to keep everything inside the frame and hence fit covers on it all to act as a heat chamber still trying to decide on electronics tho really do want to go 32 bit if at all possible probably with a RADDS board on either a DUE or maybe even a UDOO (the latter would let me run Linux on it at the same time and then Repetier host on it as well with a monitor attached it could be an awesome machine (If it all works that is)).

Will keep updating as I go expecting the extrusions Monday/Tuesday they have shipped from Motedis and I am also impressed with DOLD 3 days from order to delivery of me TR10x2 leadscrew and cheap. 3 mtrs of leadscrew 3 hexagonal nuts for them and 2 700mm lengths of 10mm Smooth rod for total of Euro 69.50 delivered.

Doug

@dougal
coool :-)
Can I help?

->
I have also ordered some more Extrusion for my 4 uprights and have gone for 45x45 at 1 mtr long which will allow me to keep everything inside the frame and hence fit covers on it all to act as a heat chamber still trying to decide on electronics tho really do want to go 32 bit if at all possible probably with a RADDS board on either a DUE or maybe even a UDOO (the latter would let me run Linux on it at the same time and then Repetier host on it as well with a monitor attached it could be an awesome machine (If it all works that is)).

---

Mein Club: [hackerspace-ffm.de]
RADDS-Shield -> Commercial [max3dshop.org]

@Angelo

I PM'd you the other day but yes think I will be ordering a RADDS board next week (In fact know I will be) but would like to know if it will support thermocouples even if it need a add on board to do the conversion?

Doug

Quote
angelo
@dougal
coool :-)
Can I help?

->
I have also ordered some more Extrusion for my 4 uprights and have gone for 45x45 at 1 mtr long which will allow me to keep everything inside the frame and hence fit covers on it all to act as a heat chamber still trying to decide on electronics tho really do want to go 32 bit if at all possible probably with a RADDS board on either a DUE or maybe even a UDOO (the latter would let me run Linux on it at the same time and then Repetier host on it as well with a monitor attached it could be an awesome machine (If it all works that is)).

I am new to the RepRap / Core XY community, but I started to print out the parts on Jand's github. I have ordered some bearings, but need to look at ordering the electronics and rest of the parts. I will probably go with a bowden setup and get the extruder off of the hot end, possibly airtripper. I need to read through this thread and gather some more info.

Parts I have printed so far:
[imgur.com]

Batman!

---

- Sebastien Plante (nka)

Hello zelogik,
I did not read all the postings in this thread, seen there are so much of it, but I did read about your idea to get air from outside the printer for cooling. And I have the impression that you're the kind of crazy one who wants to make things not as good as needed, but as good as possible. And seriously I do like this kind of thinking, even if in today times, we’re completely out, but who cares…. ;-)
Now to get back to this point and if you’re still working with a kraken extruder which is made to be water cooled, I thought about a peltier element to make things perfect. And further more I real do like, no, I love designs in SW. This seen it’s soooooo easy to start with and to realize simple designs in not time, with no basic knowledge.
And since quite a while, there are as well some designs for a 3D printer on my PC, which has never been realized, seen I want my parts in aluminum, but had no CNC milling machine. Now things come closer and probably I will be able to build my printer within the next few months.
But the trouble I get actually is to not have an idea about the interface, firmware, and so far interactions. How do these things work together, what works with what and how this must be put in line to each other?
And seen you have done a work that goes absolutely in the direction of my own thinking, it would be nice to get some help from you for these questions as well. So could you let me know, what you’re suing actually for and where I could download it? (Slicer, firmware, stepper drivers, etc.)
Thanks in advance says
Dome

Some photos to update my machine:







Things to do:
- Bowden motor supports
- Finish autolevel retractable probe
- Hotbed base plate
- 220v Silicone heat pad and solid state relay
- Cable chains
- Fans, blowers, connectors, etc.
- Exterior plastic enclosure

Finally the printable size is x:440mm y:280mm z:350mm. The movement on all axis is smooth and fast.

@Dougal: For the speed test, I'm always at 80mm/s and 150mm/s for travel, not that printer make bad things as the quality is exactly the same, but just because I always have the same problem : "noise".
Faster = Noisier, and less WAF.

@sethmo: Waiting for final assembly

@Jumperdome: Thanks for your words. But forget about peltier element, to power hungry in my opinion. So for the firmware, I have tried Repetier-firmware and Marlin, both are excellent, I just love Open-source software, and the last repetier choose was radical for me (even if they have only closed the source for the Repetier GUI).
For the slicer, I use some time Slic3r, but too much bug and can't easily manipulate stl directly on the gui ( last version yes I know, but too much bug... ). So I use at 98% Cura slicer, easy, fast, so perfect for me, the only downside, Cura don't have honeyfill filling.
And to control the printer, I use Pronterface/printrun, even if Octoprint work reaaly well and installed on my printer, but the f*uc$§ WIFI connection have killed me...
Google is your friend for Cura/Pronterface/Repetier/Octoprint/Marlin :-D
For the electronic I use only "old" RAMPS with mix between DRV8825, A498X for stepper controller.

@marcossf: Nice open case. At first I wanted exactly the same thing, but the corner/profile price increase the cost to much for me... And I have some doubt on the deflection of the frame with fast mouvement.

what are peoples thoughts of using spectra braid instead of belts ?

thanks adam

Update

My Kraken has arrived



All parts laid out (Difficult to see the water pump in the rear middle


Hot Ends assembled just need thermistors and heater fitting


Cold side of kraken with Bowden fittings and water inlet/outlet barbs

all this fits within a 40mm cube

More to Come

Radds board with extension to 8 steppers and 3 x 128 microstepping drivers ordered.

Doug

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2014 08:31AM by dougal1957.

Hello,

I was wondering... Instead of those two (fairly expensive) aluminium plates, couldn't you just use 4 smaller 2020 profile parts to mount the heatbed on?
See attached file.

Peter

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2014 06:48AM by peterv3210.

I have used two "cheap/free" aluminium plates as their lying around me

But yes Jand design for the Zaxis have put 2020 profile.

Quote
zelogik
@marcossf: Nice open case. At first I wanted exactly the same thing, but the corner/profile price increase the cost to much for me... And I have some doubt on the deflection of the frame with fast mouvement.

The case will be totally closed, one interior enclosure to mantain temperature and one external skin to get some aesthetic.

What doubt? I'm open to any ideas to improve it.
I sit on top of the chassis (my 75kg) and not seen any deflection, gap or deformation at all. Its 30x30mm alu profile with specific fixations and brackets.

Untill now only tried to move x/y axis at F32000 mm/s2 simulating a print without any problem, and Z axis no need such high speeds (F4000 its enough). I had to add some oil on all the IGUS bearing, and Q carriage because some friction. Soon I will upload a video.

But there isn't perfect, so much to improve.

@marcossf your z-axis rods should be aligned with bearing axis for best performance.

I've got a dimensioning question/problem. I'm trying to build a corexy out of all off-the-shelf aluminium bits, which means using bearing pillows like SC12UU etc. I'm using 12mm rods because I also want to do a bit of light milling on this machine.

Anyway, the problem is that the SC12UU are 28mm deep which means that the gap in the middle of my X carriage is 56mm smaller than the total Y-width of the X carriage. My machine is constrained to 450mm in X and about 480mm in Y (I intend to mount it in a 19" rack cabinet) and once I lose about 80+50mm of Y to the framing extrusion, stepper motor and pulleys, that leaves just 350mm of free Y rod. Say I want to fit a 300W/50mm spindle motor into the X carriage, add in 56mm of space for the bearing pillows, and suddenly that's a 110mm-wide carriage and I've got only 240mm of Y motion. Seems a bit crap to me that only half my internal dimension is available for motion!

Going down to 10mm X-rails gives me 4mm more space and down to 8mm (way too flexy) would give me 12mm more space. Not much improvement.

Should I be machining my own low-profile bearing pillows to contain LM12UU and save space? (save what space? LM12UU is 21mm outer diameter, so that leaves only 3.5mm of material on each side of the pillow) Is there some obvious layout improvement that I'm missing? Should I try a design with vertically-spaced X rails?

Printing the carriages is not an option as I don't really have affordable access to a printer, and I want this to be an all-metal build to permit milling and/or a heated build volume without softening any parts. I have access to a metal lathe and mill, both manual (no CNC or DRO). They're about an hour away and I can use them but am not what you would call skilled.



Diagram shows layout of one side of the machine:
- red is the outline of a notional "plate" like in the original corexy but in reality it will be built on 2020 extrusion with just little pieces of plate in each corner to support the motors/pulleys. You can see clearance for the 2020 verticals in the corners of the plate outline.
- green for pulleys, above the plate
- blue for hardware below the plate (bearing pillows, shaft supports, stepper)
- orange for the rails
- cyan for the Y carriage (it's 50x30x6mm Al angle)

As drawn, the machine size is 480mm in Y, the Y carriage is 100mm wide and the Y rod length between supports is 350mm. The odd stepper arrangement is so that the belt runs inside-out, which means that all my idlers except two are smooth not cogged. The belt crossover is between the two steppers.

Any suggestions?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/30/2014 10:47AM by polyglot.

Nice thread!

Since I saw design of Buccaneer 3D printer I am planing to make something similar.
My budget is silly tight and I throw out linear sliders replacing it with some kind of DIY sliders with coreXY.
Tightening will be with two of ball bearings. Part of Sketchup drawing have all crucial parts.
Metal plate is from laser catted 3mm stainless steel.
Working area is 200x200mm, 200mm high. Filament motor will be detached from extruder.
Construction will be slightly adapted for DLP SLA (Z axes).
Moving slider parts will be from fiberglass (2x1.5mm).
There are some bending issues but it was solved (not in the drawing)
Design is still in the process but most of ideas are in the drawing
Main idea was to have clear design without visible parts, except hot bad, in transparent enclosure. All other will be in upper part of same volume.

Any thoughts about construction?

Well, after H-bot.... I went core XY! Should of heeded the warnings

Here is my build:
Core XY on Open Builds

You can see a picture of my original H-Bot in the discussion forum.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/07/2014 08:44PM by cfeniak.

Started my build now following Jands design for printed parts but im using gt2 belts. Most parts are printed, the frame is built and i think all hardware has arrived.

Next big step is to pull my delta apart for the electronics or maybe i should just upgrade to 32bit ?

Quote
adambrum
Started my build now following Jands design for printed parts but im using gt2 belts. Most parts are printed, the frame is built and i think all hardware has arrived.

Next big step is to pull my delta apart for the electronics or maybe i should just upgrade to 32bit ?

If I were you I would upgrade to 32 bit probably using one of Angelo's RADDS Boards. Mine has just arrived will post photos later.

Doug

Quote
cfeniak
Well, after H-bot.... I went core XY! Should of heeded the warnings

Here is my build:
Core XY on Open Builds

You can see a picture of my original H-Bot in the discussion forum.

Hard to tell from the photos, but could you elaborate on how the z-axis is constructed? I see the two motors with the 8mm threaded rod (are these OpenBuilds leadscrews?) on one side. Is the other side of the platform supported at all or is it only supported on the one side. I'm designing my own core x/y right now which will also use v-slot exclusively for the linear motion. I'm kicking around various ideas on how to handle the z-axis and whether one supported on just one side with the v-wheels will work effectively.

Quote
dougal1957

Quote
adambrum
Started my build now following Jands design for printed parts but im using gt2 belts. Most parts are printed, the frame is built and i think all hardware has arrived.

Next big step is to pull my delta apart for the electronics or maybe i should just upgrade to 32bit ?

If I were you I would upgrade to 32 bit probably using one of Angelo's RADDS Boards. Mine has just arrived will post photos later.

Doug

As promised Photos of RADDS Board + extension Board and 3 x RRD 128 Microstepping Driver modules.


Complete outfit.


RADDS Shield with Extension board.


RRD Drvr Module.

all this is to be used with a Arduino DUE Board with Repetier Firmware which gives full 32 bit firmware with support for upto 5 extruders (I will eventually be using 4 Extruders).

Once finished and commissioned I will post my Cad files for my printed parts for anyone that may be interested.

Doug

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2014 09:13AM by dougal1957.

Where did you get your RADDS board from? I did a quick search but can't find anything.

---

greghoge.com

HUGE 3D PRINTER PARTS SALE!!!

Quote
gmh39
Where did you get your RADDS board from? I did a quick search but can't find anything.

Got it direct from Angelo see This Radds Thread

He has a Web Shop but it isn't to clear I dealt with him by PM to start with and he sent me a copy of the English Manual for it.

Beauty of it is that Repetier already supports it.

Doug.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/09/2014 10:57AM by dougal1957.