Re: G&C Printer March 26, 2016 12:09PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |
Re: G&C Printer March 26, 2016 12:17PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |
Re: G&C Printer March 26, 2016 04:07PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 29 |
Re: G&C Printer March 26, 2016 04:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |
Quote
Nosmo
Vref is the maximum current setting on a ramps or compatible board (using a potmeter), a MKS Sbase doesn't have Vref potmeters but the max current is set via the config.txt file.
My extruder setting is 280 steps/mm on 1/32 micro stepping (had the extruder running yesterday and did a calibration test). The extruder is a Chinese MK8 contraption.
Re: G&C Printer March 26, 2016 05:17PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 29 |
Quote
simon_smithson
I'm currently using 1/16 stepping, do I just double all my steps per mm if I move to 1/32? There's a jumper on the board to switch to 1/32, correct?
Re: G&C Printer March 28, 2016 06:24AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Quote
simon_smithson
Biggest issue I'm currently having is with the extruder. I'm currently using a single direct drive. It seems to go wildly from under to over extruding. Not entirely convinced that having the print spool at the bottom of the machine and a length of PTFE tubing is the best approach for me, so I might shift the filament holder to the top of the machine.
Prints offset after around layer 11 April 05, 2016 04:01PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
Re: Prints offset after around layer 11 April 06, 2016 02:06AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 31 |
Quote
ddragon
Not sure what is causing this. But after around layer 11 the printer starts to print down to the left (off set)... I changed the Stepper_High_Delay to 2... still doing it. I'm running pretty basic setup... Ramp 1.4. I have a smart control on it... would this do it?
Re: Prints offset after around layer 11 April 06, 2016 03:19AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Re: G&C Printer April 27, 2016 06:01PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 11 |
Re: G&C Printer April 27, 2016 06:34PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Re: G&C Printer April 27, 2016 06:39PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 11 |
Quote
filipeCampos
the new e3d appears to be a very good extruder, and using small motor can be very light, but they are new and way to expensive. i pretty sure in no time the price will drop and start to appear printed version.
about the changes... i need the get the dimension off the base and where are the fixing holes to see the best way to install them directly on the carriage.
the printer looks great. what is the print volume?
Re: G&C Printer April 28, 2016 02:58AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |
Re: G&C Printer April 28, 2016 04:55AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Quote
simon_smithson
There are no mounting holes on the extruder itself, instead you mount via a printed plate sandwiched between the extruder and stepper.
can be a solution, but you will loss print volume on the y axis and one of the extruder will be difficult to service.Quote
simon_smithson
So I'm going to move the limit switches to the back of the carriage and mount the extruder and hotend such that the hotend hangs off the front of the carriage.
Re: G&C Printer April 28, 2016 06:36AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 9 |
Re: G&C Printer May 01, 2016 06:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |
Re: G&C Printer May 01, 2016 07:13PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Re: G&C Printer May 01, 2016 07:23PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 11 |
Quote
filipeCampos
4- in case you go with a cheap board like ramps 1.4, is better to put a external relay and not use the bed direlty connected to the board. the ramps can overheat if you do not use the relay. with a good board there is no need of this relay. you need to check the max Amp the board can have for the bed and if you can avoid the relay, it make a bang bang noise.
Re: G&C Printer May 01, 2016 07:36PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Quote
critter42
Quote
filipeCampos
4- in case you go with a cheap board like ramps 1.4, is better to put a external relay and not use the bed direlty connected to the board. the ramps can overheat if you do not use the relay. with a good board there is no need of this relay. you need to check the max Amp the board can have for the bed and if you can avoid the relay, it make a bang bang noise.
Dumb question but do you have a wiring diagram where the relay goes? even something crappy whipped up on MS Paint would help me
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 04:53AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 05:53AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
filipeCampos
@Amoniak
About the choosing of your printer. I know money is a big issue and your are trying to go with a printer that have the best value for the buck. Before building this printer i was too looking for a printer on the cheap side. I decided to build my own because all the model (not the expensive ones) have one big problem to my eyes; the main frame... The main advantage of this model is the main frame (rigidity, organization, easy to enclose). For some people is structure is overkill, but not to me. It will allow to upgrade without the need to modify or have concern about the structure.
You have already read from several people to not go cheap on some parts and they are correct, for example if you choose a bad hotend it can give you jamming problem that are almost impossible to solve. the main structure is one of these components in my "not to go cheap" list. But the printer will never goes to the very good printer because of is x,y axis, still use of 8mm rods, lots of printed parts. But i already working on a new version to solve this and it will use the exact same frame.
If you go with this printer in my opinion is a great choose, but it will not be less of 450€... is simply out of the less 400€ budget. Most of the cost difference is related with the frame. You can not have a great printer with a weak rigidity frame.
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 05:57AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 11 |
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 06:23AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Quote
ivo95
You have built a great printer, but I think that it can be done much cheaper.
Your basic BOM is 466€.
100 t-nuts 21,41€ - $6 ali/ebay
100 M4x8 14,28 - $6 alie/ebay
------
25€ savings
4 x cube connector - 14,8€
8 x Connector plate 20x40 - 10,56€
3 x Bracket 20x20 B-type slot 6 with screws (10 units) - 24,99€
T-nut heavy duty steel B-Type slot 6 (M5) (8 units) - 2,25€
Inner bracket 20 steel B-Type slot 6 (16 units) - 7,44€
6 x Bracket Alu elox width 20x40 - 9,84€
Bracket Alu elox width 20x20 - 1,06€
-------
70,94€
Do you really need 71€ just for frame connectors?
digital_dentist built his printer with standard connectors with two drilled access holes, and he said that two holes don't affect frame rigidity.
So it is possible to use 15€ worth of standard connectors with some tapping/drilling, and that's 56€ savings.
mk2 aluminium plate - 11€
Heated Bed glass 200x200x3mm (Borosilicate) - 15,72€
11€ for plate that holds 4 bolts/springs is to much, it can be done in much cheaper way, and borosilicate glass is overkill.
So, final BOM can look like this:
466-25-56-11-16 = 358€
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 07:41AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 07:59AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
filipeCampos
the mk2 aluminium plate i think is important to make the arms of the bed solid. It could be used directly the mk2 bed to do this job, but the heat will be propagate to the bed structure and this is bad.
"11€ for plate that holds 4 bolts/springs is to much, it can be done in much cheaper way, and borosilicate glass is overkill."
please give me more info about how you will have this done?
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 08:08AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 11 |
Quote
ivo95
BTW do you think that 300x200mm bed size is doable with your design? (12mm rods + 4xSCV12UU holding the bed).
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 09:02AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
looks to be a good solution.Quote
ivo95
220x80x4mm alu plate is 2,67€ @ doldmechatronik. Cut two stripes, drill 4 holes and you have even better support and you saved 8€ if you want to do some cutting/drilling.
I only have experience with a 20x20cm bed and is just work. With this bed size i can guaranty you only need to setup once or when you change the hotend nozzle.Quote
ivo95
BTW do you think that 300x200mm bed size is doable with your design? (12mm rods + 4xSCV12UU holding the bed).
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 12:03PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 12 |
Quote
filipeCampos
I only have experience with a 20x20cm bed and is just work. With this bed size i can guaranty you only need to setup once or when you change the hotend nozzle.
I only print with pla, i have configured my slider to put the temperature of the bed in the first layer at 70ºC degree e the next ones to 50ºC. The first layer is always perfect on all the 20x20 cm of the bed (not using any type of auto leveling). by the way, auto leveling is a software trick to solve a mechanical problem. For a bigger bed (30x30 or 20x30) i you suggest to go with 14mm rods only to be sure. critter42 was a 30x30 version build with the 12mm rods, but it will only be sure it work after done some tall prints (15cm or more on the z).
Re: G&C Printer May 02, 2016 01:07PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 346 |
Re: G&C Printer May 03, 2016 06:35PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 33 |