Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer April 30, 2016 08:12PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
AlexY
and a new z-axis design with 3 point leveling and dual belt-driven leadscrews.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 03:55AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 01:24PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 166 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 01:46PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
AlexY
Thanks for the suggestions!
The z-axis is completely experimental at this point, and the design of the frame makes it easy to swap out different print bed designs.
Quote
Would a cantilever design as in the original Fusebox, with thicker rods and bearings, be sufficient? I've noticed that a lot of printers like the Ultimaker use a cantilever design without much issue.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 01:55PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
dgcaste
Does the extruder run at other than 1/16 microstepping? Extruder is skipping occasionally and my driver is maxed out. I don't think it's the tension either.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 07:22PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 166 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 08:05PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
AlexY
Other things I still need to figure out include endstops and possibly a new extruder design, since although it works pretty well, the old one does look a bit tacky with the binder clip springs.
Quote
Any suggestions for endstop placement? Ideally I'd like to keep them all stationary to minimize the amount of moving wires, but this means homing will have to be done in a specific order to avoid crashes.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 01, 2016 08:51PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 269 |
Quote
lkcl
Quote
AlexY
Other things I still need to figure out include endstops and possibly a new extruder design, since although it works pretty well, the old one does look a bit tacky with the binder clip springs.
binder clip springs... where? i didn't see none! mind you i went for the "all-aluminium extruder"... and it was rubbish. how about just using the e3d titan that's just out - digital_dentist kindly just made a model of it (see previous message for a link). i designed an extruder: it had to be a geared one (i'm using 3mm bowden). it took me 10 days and 3 redesign attempts, increasing the gear ratio each time (2:1 and 3.5:1 were the failed ratios) mind you i was going for compact as well as fairly high gear ratio (53:13) *and* modularity.
Quote
Any suggestions for endstop placement? Ideally I'd like to keep them all stationary to minimize the amount of moving wires, but this means homing will have to be done in a specific order to avoid crashes.
i thought about this for a while, bear in mind that the hotend (and 1/2 the carriage, etc.) has to be removable in the printer i'm doing because when using a Flex3Drive it's too tall, when stowed. also, having the endstops poke upwards when the corexy part is folded down: again, too tall. and yeah i really don't like the x-endstop on the x-end thing, i nearly ended up ripping the wires off and wrecking the endstop at least twice because i didn't notice the wires catching.
so the solution there i figured was, put the x endstop on the *carriage*, not the x-end. in the case of the sandwich200v2, that means it will be detachable along with the hotend. but, it has the nice side-effect that the wires can be attached to the same bundle as the hotend heater, thermistor, and the two fans. you already have a bunch of wires, there: three more ain't gonna make any odds, and as far as weight is concerned, an extra 5 grams or so ain't a lot either: this isn't a delta printer design.
second thing: about homing carriage-crashes: RepRapFirmware, which is for the 32-bit printers like the duet 0.8.5 (thoroughly recommended btw - great board) you program all those kinds of things in gcode files, *not* c code, assembler or c++. and that means you can simply edit the "homeall.g" file (no recompiles needed, in fact no firmware "build" environment needed at all) to get it to do a very very specific sequence, end-result is, you safely homed all axes.... *depending on your type of printer* [there are several example configs - for deltas, cartesian, corexy - and several variants of all of those].
so, for the corexy homeall.g example files that come with RepRapFirmware, it first of all drops the z height by 10mm. *then* it travels across listening for the x-endstop, *then* the y one, and then finally, knowing that x and y are at 0, does the z-axis homing.
now, in the sandwich200v1, turns out that x is mirrored, so i had to invert that by turning the connector round... *but* that resulted in the x minstop turning into an x *max* stop... so all i did was, in the homeall.g file, edited the G1 command on line... 5 or whatever it was... to get it to travel +ve not -ve, and then to reset the X absolute position value to 220.0, instead of 0.0: job done, x axis thinks it's at maximum travel position not min.
all this was done *safely* without recompiling a single line of firmware source code. i only had to emergency-power-down just the once
in other words, head-crashing can be solved... in software. and the duet 0.8.5 is pretty damn good. dc42 knows where you can get a $65 china replica of the duet 0.6 if the GBP 95 cost of the duet 0.8.5 is an issue, but honestly it's worth it. ethernet port on a printer controller board, and a web server built-in to the firmware... and this is an embedded processor with no virtual memory? ha! cool!
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 02, 2016 05:33PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
Ax
Quote
lkcl
in other words, head-crashing can be solved... in software. and the duet 0.8.5 is pretty damn good. dc42 knows where you can get a $65 china replica of the duet 0.6 if the GBP 95 cost of the duet 0.8.5 is an issue, but honestly it's worth it. ethernet port on a printer controller board, and a web server built-in to the firmware... and this is an embedded processor with no virtual memory? ha! cool!
Tbh, if you want to stay with standard firmware Marlin 1.1 pretty much does the same.
Quote
And here's a pic of the new FB2020 (excuse the mess, I can't work cleanly), dubbed the FB2020 Plus, 200x200x280(ish) Build volume
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 03, 2016 11:49AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 251 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 04, 2016 03:51AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 269 |
Quote
lkcl
Quote
Ax
Quote
lkcl
in other words, head-crashing can be solved... in software. and the duet 0.8.5 is pretty damn good. dc42 knows where you can get a $65 china replica of the duet 0.6 if the GBP 95 cost of the duet 0.8.5 is an issue, but honestly it's worth it. ethernet port on a printer controller board, and a web server built-in to the firmware... and this is an embedded processor with no virtual memory? ha! cool!
Tbh, if you want to stay with standard firmware Marlin 1.1 pretty much does the same.
yeahhhh.... but note exactly what you said: you said, "maybe RC6 has good support for corexy, maybe it's coming out of RC6 soon, maybe maybe"... all that says to me that you're critically relying on *other people* to program in c code... whereas the RepRapFirmware has been deliberately designed so that you - right now - can take responsibility and can take actuion - *right now* - to simply fire up a text editor, enter some g-code commands, and have the job done in... well... it took me about 4-5 hours from start to finish, from zero knowledge, to unpack and put the duet 0.8.5 in, work out the axes and connectors, work out the stepper orientation, and to get a first print - that includes searches online, looking for examples of corexy configs to copy and start from.
Quote
And here's a pic of the new FB2020 (excuse the mess, I can't work cleanly), dubbed the FB2020 Plus, 200x200x280(ish) Build volume
i love it! especially love the dragon, that's huge - my daughter loved it, too. any chance of taking a picture from the back, to see how you've done the bed-support and rods?
Quote
widespreaddeadhead
Ax:
What would it take to redesign your 3 point mount at the end of the bed for the original 15x15 extrusions? Resize the end caps and the mounting piece?
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 09, 2016 09:18PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 269 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 10, 2016 03:10PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 31 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 11, 2016 07:50PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 269 |
Quote
Canadian Geek
Hi Ax,
I'm getting ready to start building one of these. Just want to make sure I have the most current parts list before I go out to get the 2020 cut. Can you point me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Jeff
oops, sorry, for the larger 200x200x280.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 13, 2016 12:04AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 31 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 13, 2016 05:06PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 269 |
Quote
Canadian Geek
I like the idea of 12mm rods. Just checking, these are the right sizes for the larger 2020 CoreXY:
2020 Extrusion lengths
4 x 445 mm (Frame, vertical)
4 x 380 mm (Frame, X Axis)
2 x 465 mm (Frame, Diagonal)
2 x 340 mm (Frame, Y Axis top)
2 x 300 mm (Frame, Y Axis bottom)
2 x 235 mm (Bed, Z Axis)
2 x 147mm (Bed ties)
If so, I've got an order to place.
Jeff
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 14, 2016 01:42AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 14, 2016 04:35AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
godefroi
I got mine put together enough to actually make it to "print" stage.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 03:15PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Quote
lkcl
the prints are probably coming off because the bed isn't level. bed level calibration is really important, do a z-switch "Home" then switch OFF the printer . make sure the printhead is cool before beginning.
you should get a really thin piece of paper (a shopping receipt is perfect) then put that underneath the printhead, and "drag" it. if it doesn't move you have the screw down too tight. if it's loose, bring the screw back up again. then move the printhead manually to the next corner, keep the paper underneath it cos it's a pain to get it back underneath. if the printhead jams on the paper on move STOP, undo the screw loose *then* move. cycle through *ALL FOUR* corners at least THREE TIMES. why? because with a 4-corner bed levelling, alterations in one corner affect all other 3 corners in ways that will take you a bit of time to get used to.
Quote
lkcl
oh - one thing: the FB's z-axis arrangement is not stable. you can see this by pressing down on the left side of the printbed, the right side *WILL* go up, see-sawing about that middle z-nut. so when doing levelling, bear that in mind. even just resting a screwdriver or spanner in the printbed's screw-and-spring will affect the height, and that will mean the printbed calibration will be out.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 04:12PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,685 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 04:33PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
dc42
If your whole print is mirrored then you have your X and Y axes the wrong way round. The +Y direction should be 90 degrees anticlockwise, viewed from above, from the +X direction. If it'a 90 degrees clockwise instead, then you need to:
1. Swap your X and Y motor connectors over (always turn the power off before messing with motor connectors). This will get the X and Y axes in the correct orientation with respect to each other.
2. Then get the +X direction the way you want it by reversing one or both motor directions, if necessary.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 04:37PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
godefroi
I hooked up the heated bed, and I haven't had any warping since then. I also did mount the bed with 3 points instead of four, by simply moving the Z-axis cross-brace out to the end of the arms, and putting one of the supports that are supposed to go at the ends of the arms in the middle of the cross-brace. Seemed easier to level, to my untrained brain.
Quote
lkcl
oh - one thing: the FB's z-axis arrangement is not stable. you can see this by pressing down on the left side of the printbed, the right side *WILL* go up, see-sawing about that middle z-nut. so when doing levelling, bear that in mind. even just resting a screwdriver or spanner in the printbed's screw-and-spring will affect the height, and that will mean the printbed calibration will be out.
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 06:31PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Quote
lkcl
yeah i had this problem as well, and it was very confusing. i think i cycled through these combinations you recommended, dc42, several times what i particularly didn't get was that i had designed the printer to have the x endstop in the wrong corner, and, not being able to move it i had to tell the firmware that the x endstop was a "max" *not* a "min". godefri, what controller are you using?
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 07:11PM |
Registered: 12 years ago Posts: 44 |
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 16, 2016 07:20PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
//#define USE_XMIN_PLUG #define USE_YMIN_PLUG #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG #define USE_XMAX_PLUG //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop. const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define INVERT_X_DIR false #define INVERT_Y_DIR false #define INVERT_Z_DIR false
#define X_HOME_DIR 1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 17, 2016 03:28AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
phord
My X endstop seems to be on the wrong end, too. But that's also how it appears to be on the sketchup shown in the video, too. So, to be clear, I put the X-endstop on the X-end which presses against the Y-endstop. There seems to be a mount place for it. But when I home to X and Y in that back corner, it seems like "plus X" moves in what is traditionally the negative direction.
Is everyone having to use max-X instead of min-X for endstops?
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 17, 2016 03:30AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 776 |
Quote
godefroi
Everything's moving in the right direction, now (assuming the X endstop is indeed MAX and not MIN), but I haven't printed benchy to make sure, yet. I did just print this bridge test (at 60mm/s), of which I am super proud:
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 17, 2016 10:21AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 25 |
Quote
lkcl
wow, that's a heck of a long way - that's.. what... 100mm??!
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 17, 2016 05:56PM |
Registered: 12 years ago Posts: 44 |
Quote
lkcl
Quote
phord
My X endstop seems to be on the wrong end, too. But that's also how it appears to be on the sketchup shown in the video, too. So, to be clear, I put the X-endstop on the X-end which presses against the Y-endstop. There seems to be a mount place for it. But when I home to X and Y in that back corner, it seems like "plus X" moves in what is traditionally the negative direction.
Is everyone having to use max-X instead of min-X for endstops?
yes. see attached patch file. slightly different from what godefroi uses, but achieves the same effect. i have a set of configs for the Duet 0.8.5 as well. [hands.com] you'll want home*.g as well as to start carefully with config.g
Re: FuseBox ~$300 CoreXY Printer May 17, 2016 11:20PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 47 |
Quote
Ax
Quote
Canadian Geek
Hi Ax,
I'm getting ready to start building one of these. Just want to make sure I have the most current parts list before I go out to get the 2020 cut. Can you point me in the right direction.
Thanks,
Jeff
oops, sorry, for the larger 200x200x280.
Hey Jeff, the BOM on the Github is current. I'm still in the testing phase for the 12mm Z axis rods atm, I've got the parts print tested, I'm waiting on parts from China atm. However, the full BOM for the Plus including the lengths for the extrusions are at [github.com]