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First time build - SmartCore 8mm

Posted by ixlix 
First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 06, 2015 07:48AM
So I have finally gathered all the parts to start my first ever printer build, and Ive chosen the Smartcore. Ive had the printed parts printed in Glow inthe Dark Blue ABS (hopefully look as cool as i think it will) and will be cutting the frame pieces tomorrow. Using the Onshape version of the Smartcore was really great, allowing for easy customisation. Ive studied Industrial Design so know my way around the cad part, however im not really up to speed on the firmware side of things, so it should be interesting. So i hope to get some help from you lovely people along the way. smiling smiley

Attached are some photos of where im up to.

open | download - IMG_20151006_215509.gif (226.1 KB)
open | download - IMG_20151006_215434.gif (252.9 KB)
open | download - IMG_20151006_215440.gif (252.7 KB)
open | download - IMG_20151006_211254.gif (320.7 KB)
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 07, 2015 03:44PM
I look forward to seeing updates...
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 15, 2015 07:44AM
Okay so a little update, had a great time cutting the box on a friends large cnc router. After reading that the mdf boxes can become a bit of a speaker box, i designed in some holes, note the x and y winking smiley

All assembled and ready for paint. I plan on cutting a section out of the lower front brace to fit the lcd screen.

And painted....

Being able to mount the y rod carriers allowed me to cut the y, then the x rods to length, and then fit the majority of the printed parts. Just need to cut the Z rods now.

Y rods cut to length and Z slide temporarily fitted.

This is where im up to now. Can anyone tell me if its crucial to get the z axis dead vertical? I would assume it is. Its pretty good as it sits, but i need to secure the top Z mount and want to know how precise i need to be.

Thanks for looking.

Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 15, 2015 08:01AM
Nice looking printer...
Your z axis must be in an perfect 90 degree in relation of the x and y axis.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/15/2015 08:03AM by filipeCampos.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 15, 2015 08:55AM
Hi guys,

Nice start ! I like the YX cuttings idea !

you can shim your Z flange parts (use shims out of soda cans)
until the Z is perfectly square with other axis.

Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 15, 2015 06:36PM
Thanks Jmax, i was talking more about the precision of the z axis in the x axis direction. I guess i'll do my best to get it completely square. It should be pretty close as the box was cnc so should be 100% square itself.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 16, 2015 05:23PM

You have another Z axis from AndreasL avalaible in thingiverse.
iMHO, it's better than the genuine Smartfriendz one.

Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 17, 2015 05:38AM
Yeah I will upgrade the z axis once I can print with this. I also have a few changes I'll make to the existing printed parts I have.

So I got her moving in all directions
One question, when I home or move the X axis using Repetierhost, sometimes but not always the y axis also moves. What would cause this? Belts too tight?
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 17, 2015 08:26AM

On a Core XY printer, if you run a single motor,
the printhead moves in diagonal.
If you want to move the printhead along the X axis,
both motors must be used.


Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 17, 2015 07:12PM
I am running two motors, its just that sometimes when I press home x, the y moves a bit too. I will try and get a video. The printer moves as it should.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 19, 2015 07:17AM
Okay, heres a video showing my issue with both axes moving when only controoling one at a time, or homing one axis at a time. All the movements in this video are started with trying to move a single axis only. You can see that the head moves diagonally which means both ases are moving when only one should. The crash in the video is from trying to home the x axis when the y was too close to its max, and as the x axis homes (which it should do without moving y) it moves y into the end causing the crash.


Any ideas as to why this is happening?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2015 08:44AM by ixlix.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 19, 2015 11:45AM
Did you activate CoreXY kinematics in the firmware?

You may have to play with the orientation of the motor plugs and the motor inversion in the firmware to get ir moving correctly.


Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 19, 2015 02:27PM
Best tell us what firmware you are running so that someone can tell you how to configure it for a CoreXY printer.

Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 19, 2015 04:32PM
I think you are moving beyond your axes.

Try reducing the size of the printer in your firmware. f.ex 100mm * 100mm and then test again.


This is the part of the configuration to modify

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 195 // make it 100 instead
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 210 // make it 100 instead
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 190
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/19/2015 05:48PM by oz9ny.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 19, 2015 05:07PM
I am running the Smartrapcore firmware, and CoreXY is enabled. As i said, for the most part it moves as it should. Heres a config dump:



// This configuration file contains the basic settings.
// Advanced settings can be found in Configuration_adv.h
// BASIC SETTINGS: select your board type, temperature sensor type, axis scaling, and endstop configuration

//============================= DELTA Printer ===============================
// For a Delta printer replace the configuration files with the files in the
// example_configurations/delta directory.

//============================= SCARA Printer ===============================
// For a Delta printer replace the configuration files with the files in the
// example_configurations/SCARA directory.

// User-specified version info of this build to display in [Pronterface, etc] terminal window during
// startup. Implementation of an idea by Prof Braino to inform user that any changes made to this
// build by the user have been successfully uploaded into firmware.
#define STRING_VERSION_CONFIG_H __DATE__ " " __TIME__ // build date and time
#define STRING_CONFIG_H_AUTHOR "(none, default config)" // Who made the changes.

// SERIAL_PORT selects which serial port should be used for communication with the host.
// This allows the connection of wireless adapters (for instance) to non-default port pins.
// Serial port 0 is still used by the Arduino bootloader regardless of this setting.
#define SERIAL_PORT 0

// This determines the communication speed of the printer
#define BAUDRATE 250000

// This enables the serial port associated to the Bluetooth interface
//#define BTENABLED // Enable BT interface on AT90USB devices

//// The following define selects which electronics board you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 10 = Gen7 custom (Alfons3 Version) "https://github.com/Alfons3/Generation_7_Electronics"
// 11 = Gen7 v1.1, v1.2 = 11
// 12 = Gen7 v1.3
// 13 = Gen7 v1.4
// 2 = Cheaptronic v1.0
// 20 = Sethi 3D_1
// 3 = MEGA/RAMPS up to 1.2 = 3
// 33 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Bed)
// 34 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed)
// 35 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
// 36 = RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Fan)
// 4 = Duemilanove w/ ATMega328P pin assignment
// 5 = Gen6
// 51 = Gen6 deluxe
// 6 = Sanguinololu < 1.2
// 62 = Sanguinololu 1.2 and above
// 63 = Melzi
// 64 = STB V1.1
// 65 = Azteeg X1
// 66 = Melzi with ATmega1284 (MaKr3d version)
// 67 = Azteeg X3
// 68 = Azteeg X3 Pro
// 7 = Ultimaker
// 71 = Ultimaker (Older electronics. Pre 1.5.4. This is rare)
// 72 = Ultimainboard 2.x (Uses TEMP_SENSOR 20)
// 77 = 3Drag Controller
// 8 = Teensylu
// 80 = Rumba
// 81 = Printrboard (AT90USB1286)
// 82 = Brainwave (AT90USB646)
// 83 = SAV Mk-I (AT90USB1286)
// 9 = Gen3+
// 70 = Megatronics
// 701= Megatronics v2.0
// 702= Minitronics v1.0
// 90 = Alpha OMCA board
// 91 = Final OMCA board
// 301= Rambo
// 21 = Elefu Ra Board (v3)
// 88 = 5DPrint D8 Driver Board
// 999 = Leapfrog

#define MOTHERBOARD 33

// Define this to set a custom name for your generic Mendel,
// #define CUSTOM_MENDEL_NAME "This Mendel"

// Define this to set a unique identifier for this printer, (Used by some programs to differentiate between machines)
// You can use an online service to generate a random UUID. (eg [www.uuidgenerator.net])
// #define MACHINE_UUID "00000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000"

// This defines the number of extruders
#define EXTRUDERS 1

//// The following define selects which power supply you have. Please choose the one that matches your setup
// 1 = ATX
// 2 = X-Box 360 203Watts (the blue wire connected to PS_ON and the red wire to VCC)

#define POWER_SUPPLY 1

// Define this to have the electronics keep the power supply off on startup. If you don't know what this is leave it.
// #define PS_DEFAULT_OFF

//=============================Thermal Settings ============================
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is Mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 71 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAF-J01 (4.7k pullup)
// 8 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup)
// 9 is 100k GE Sensing AL03006-58.2K-97-G1 (4.7k pullup)
// 10 is 100k RS thermistor 198-961 (4.7k pullup)
// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 12 is 100k 0603 SMD Vishay NTCS0603E3104FXT (4.7k pullup) (calibrated for Makibox hot bed)
// 13 is 100k Hisens 3950 1% up to 300°C for hotend "Simple ONE " & "Hotend "All In ONE"
// 20 is the PT100 circuit found in the Ultimainboard V2.x
// 60 is 100k Maker's Tool Works Kapton Bed Thermistor beta=3950
// 1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k
// (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (1k pullup)
// 1047 is Pt1000 with 4k7 pullup
// 1010 is Pt1000 with 1k pullup (non standard)
// 147 is Pt100 with 4k7 pullup
// 110 is Pt100 with 1k pullup (non standard)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

// This makes temp sensor 1 a redundant sensor for sensor 0. If the temperatures difference between these sensors is to high the print will be aborted.

// Actual temperature must be close to target for this long before M109 returns success
#define TEMP_RESIDENCY_TIME 10 // (seconds)
#define TEMP_HYSTERESIS 3 // (degC) range of +/- temperatures considered "close" to the target one
#define TEMP_WINDOW 1 // (degC) Window around target to start the residency timer x degC early.

// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but *NOT* from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 245
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 250
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 250
#define BED_MAXTEMP 120

// If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the
// average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of

// If you want the M105 heater power reported in watts, define the BED_WATTS, and (shared for all extruders) EXTRUDER_WATTS
//#define EXTRUDER_WATTS (12.0*12.0/6.7) // P=I^2/R
//#define BED_WATTS (12.0*12.0/1.1) // P=I^2/R

// PID settings:
// Comment the following line to disable PID and enable bang-bang.
#define PIDTEMP
#define BANG_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while in bang-bang mode; 255=full current
#define PID_MAX 255 // limits current to nozzle while PID is active (see PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE below); 255=full current
#ifdef PIDTEMP
//#define PID_DEBUG // Sends debug data to the serial port.
//#define PID_OPENLOOP 1 // Puts PID in open loop. M104/M140 sets the output power from 0 to PID_MAX
#define PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 10 // If the temperature difference between the target temperature and the actual temperature
// is more then PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE then the PID will be shut off and the heater will be set to min/max.
#define PID_INTEGRAL_DRIVE_MAX 255 //limit for the integral term
#define K1 0.95 //smoothing factor within the PID
#define PID_dT ((OVERSAMPLENR * 10.0)/(F_CPU / 64.0 / 256.0)) //sampling period of the temperature routine

// If you are using a pre-configured hotend then you can use one of the value sets by uncommenting it
// Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_Kp 22.2
#define DEFAULT_Ki 1.08
#define DEFAULT_Kd 114

// MakerGear
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 7.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.1
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 12

// Mendel Parts V9 on 12V
// #define DEFAULT_Kp 63.0
// #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.25
// #define DEFAULT_Kd 440
#endif // PIDTEMP

// Bed Temperature Control
// Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis
// Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWM as the extruder.
// If your PID_dT above is the default, and correct for your hardware/configuration, that means 7.689Hz,
// which is fine for driving a square wave into a resistive load and does not significantly impact you FET heating.
// This also works fine on a Fotek SSR-10DA Solid State Relay into a 250W heater.
// If your configuration is significantly different than this and you don't understand the issues involved, you probably
// shouldn't use bed PID until someone else verifies your hardware works.
// If this is enabled, find your own PID constants below.
//#define PIDTEMPBED

// This sets the max power delivered to the bed, and replaces the HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER option.
// all forms of bed control obey this (PID, bang-bang, bang-bang with hysteresis)
// setting this to anything other than 255 enables a form of PWM to the bed just like HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER did,
// so you shouldn't use it unless you are OK with PWM on your bed. (see the comment on enabling PIDTEMPBED)
#define MAX_BED_POWER 255 // limits duty cycle to bed; 255=full current

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from FOPDT model - kp=.39 Tp=405 Tdead=66, Tc set to 79.2, aggressive factor of .15 (vs .1, 1, 10)
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 10.00
#define DEFAULT_bedKi .023
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 305.4

//120v 250W silicone heater into 4mm borosilicate (MendelMax 1.5+)
//from pidautotune
// #define DEFAULT_bedKp 97.1
// #define DEFAULT_bedKi 1.41
// #define DEFAULT_bedKd 1675.16

// FIND YOUR OWN: "M303 E-1 C8 S90" to run autotune on the bed at 90 degreesC for 8 cycles.
#endif // PIDTEMPBED

//this prevents dangerous Extruder moves, i.e. if the temperature is under the limit
//can be software-disabled for whatever purposes by
//if PREVENT_DANGEROUS_EXTRUDE is on, you can still disable (uncomment) very long bits of extrusion separately.

#define EXTRUDE_MAXLENGTH (X_MAX_LENGTH+Y_MAX_LENGTH) //prevent extrusion of very large distances.

/*================== Thermal Runaway Protection ==============================
This is a feature to protect your printer from burn up in flames if it has
a thermistor coming off place (this happened to a friend of mine recently and
motivated me writing this feature).

The issue: If a thermistor come off, it will read a lower temperature than actual.
The system will turn the heater on forever, burning up the filament and anything
else around.

After the temperature reaches the target for the first time, this feature will
start measuring for how long the current temperature stays below the target

If it stays longer than _PERIOD, it means the thermistor temperature
cannot catch up with the target, so something *may be* wrong. Then, to be on the
safe side, the system will he halt.

Bear in mind the count down will just start AFTER the first time the
thermistor temperature is over the target, so you will have no problem if
your extruder heater takes 2 minutes to hit the target on heating.

// If you want to enable this feature for all your extruder heaters,
// uncomment the 2 defines below:

// Parameters for all extruder heaters
//#define THERMAL_RUNAWAY_PROTECTION_HYSTERESIS 4 // in degree Celsius

// If you want to enable this feature for your bed heater,
// uncomment the 2 defines below:

// Parameters for the bed heater

//=============================Mechanical Settings===========================

// Uncomment the following line to enable CoreXY kinematics
#define COREXY

// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors

// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined


// The pullups are needed if you directly connect a mechanical endswitch between the signal and ground pins.
const bool X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = false; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
const bool Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING = true; // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

// Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine
#if defined(COREXY) && !defined(DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS)

// For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active High) use 1
#define X_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Y_ENABLE_ON 0
#define Z_ENABLE_ON 0
#define E_ENABLE_ON 0 // For all extruders

// Disables axis when it's not being used.
#define DISABLE_X false
#define DISABLE_Y false
#define DISABLE_Z false
#define DISABLE_E false // For all extruders
#define DISABLE_INACTIVE_EXTRUDER true //disable only inactive extruders and keep active extruder enabled

#define INVERT_X_DIR false // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // for Mendel set to true, for Orca set to false
#define INVERT_Z_DIR true // for Mendel set to false, for Orca set to true
#define INVERT_E0_DIR true // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E1_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false
#define INVERT_E2_DIR false // for direct drive extruder v9 set to true, for geared extruder set to false

// Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN
#define X_HOME_DIR -1
#define Y_HOME_DIR -1
#define Z_HOME_DIR -1

#define min_software_endstops false // If true, axis won't move to coordinates less than HOME_POS.
#define max_software_endstops true // If true, axis won't move to coordinates greater than the defined lengths below.

// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 195
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 210
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 190
#define Z_MIN_POS 0

//============================= Bed Auto Leveling ===========================

#define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING // Delete the comment to enable (remove // at the start of the line)
#define Z_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST // If not commented out, Z-Probe Repeatability test will be included if Auto Bed Leveling is Enabled.


// There are 2 different ways to pick the X and Y locations to probe:

// - "grid" mode
// Probe every point in a rectangular grid
// You must specify the rectangle, and the density of sample points
// This mode is preferred because there are more measurements.
// It used to be called ACCURATE_BED_LEVELING but "grid" is more descriptive

// - "3-point" mode
// Probe 3 arbitrary points on the bed (that aren't colinear)
// You must specify the X & Y coordinates of all 3 points

// with AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID, the bed is sampled in a
// and least squares solution is calculated
// Note: this feature occupies 10'206 byte

// reglage pour la prod
// set the rectangle in which to probe

// reglage pour le proto
// set the rectangle in which to probe

// set the number of grid points per dimension
// I wouldn't see a reason to go above 3 (=9 probing points on the bed)

// with no grid, just probe 3 arbitrary points. A simple cross-product
// is used to esimate the plane of the print bed

#define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_X 50
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_1_Y 50
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_X 190
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_2_Y 50
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_X 50
#define ABL_PROBE_PT_3_Y 180


// these are the offsets to the probe relative to the extruder tip (Hotend - Probe)

#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_HOMING 4 // (in mm) Raise Z before homing (G28) for Probe Clearance.
// Be sure you have this distance over your Z_MAX_POS in case

#define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 5000 // X and Y axis travel speed between probes, in mm/min

#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 15 //How much the extruder will be raised before traveling to the first probing point.
#define Z_RAISE_BETWEEN_PROBINGS 10 //How much the extruder will be raised when traveling from between next probing points

//#define Z_PROBE_SLED // turn on if you have a z-probe mounted on a sled like those designed by Charles Bell
//#define SLED_DOCKING_OFFSET 5 // the extra distance the X axis must travel to pickup the sled. 0 should be fine but you can push it further if you'd like.

//If defined, the Probe servo will be turned on only during movement and then turned off to avoid jerk
//The value is the delay to turn the servo off after powered on - depends on the servo speed; 300ms is good value, but you can try lower it.
// You MUST HAVE the SERVO_ENDSTOPS defined to use here a value higher than zero otherwise your code will not compile.


//If you have enabled the Bed Auto Leveling and are using the same Z Probe for Z Homing,
//it is highly recommended you let this Z_SAFE_HOMING enabled!!!

#define Z_SAFE_HOMING // This feature is meant to avoid Z homing with probe outside the bed area.
// When defined, it will:
// - Allow Z homing only after X and Y homing AND stepper drivers still enabled
// - If stepper drivers timeout, it will need X and Y homing again before Z homing
// - Position the probe in a defined XY point before Z Homing when homing all axis (G28)
// - Block Z homing only when the probe is outside bed area.


#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_X_POINT (X_MAX_LENGTH/2) // X point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)
#define Z_SAFE_HOMING_Y_POINT (Y_MAX_LENGTH/2) // Y point for Z homing when homing all axis (G28)



// The position of the homing switches
//#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//#define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0 // If defined, the center of the bed is at (X=0, Y=0)

//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the Cartesian print volume.
//#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 402 // For delta: Distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.

#define NUM_AXIS 4 // The axis order in all axis related arrays is X, Y, Z, E
#define HOMING_FEEDRATE {70*60, 70*60, 10*60, 0} // set the homing speeds (mm/min)

// default settings

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {160,160,160,140} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {500, 500, 70, 50} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {6000,6000,2000,10000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for Skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 10.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 5.0 // (mm/sec)

//=============================Additional Features===========================

// Custom M code points

// The microcontroller can store settings in the EEPROM, e.g. max velocity...
// M500 - stores parameters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
//define this to enable EEPROM support
//to disable EEPROM Serial responses and decrease program space by ~1700 byte: comment this out:
// please keep turned on if you can.

// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255

//LCD and SD support
//#define ULTRA_LCD //general LCD support, also 16x2
//#define DOGLCD // Support for SPI LCD 128x64 (Controller ST7565R graphic Display Family)
//#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define SDSLOW // Use slower SD transfer mode (not normally needed - uncomment if you're getting volume init error)
//#define SD_CHECK_AND_RETRY // Use CRC checks and retries on the SD communication
//#define ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP 1 // Increase if you have a high resolution encoder
//#define ENCODER_STEPS_PER_MENU_ITEM 5 // Set according to ENCODER_PULSES_PER_STEP or your liking
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the Ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the UltiPanel as on Thingiverse
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_HZ 1000 // this is the tone frequency the buzzer plays when on UI feedback. ie Screen Click
//#define LCD_FEEDBACK_FREQUENCY_DURATION_MS 100 // the duration the buzzer plays the UI feedback sound. ie Screen Click

// The MaKr3d Makr-Panel with graphic controller and SD support
// [reprap.org]
//#define MAKRPANEL

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: [code.google.com]

// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// [reprapworld.com]
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click

// The Elefu RA Board Control Panel
// [www.elefu.com]
// REMEMBER TO INSTALL LiquidCrystal_I2C.h in your ARUDINO library folder: [github.com]

//automatic expansion
#if defined (MAKRPANEL)
#define DOGLCD
#define NEWPANEL

#define DOGLCD
#define U8GLIB_ST7920

#define NEWPANEL

#define NEWPANEL
#if defined(RA_CONTROL_PANEL)
#define NEWPANEL
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCA8574
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27 // I2C Address of the port expander


// This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( [bitbucket.org] )
// Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCF8575
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27 // I2C Address of the port expander
#define NEWPANEL

// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
// This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
// Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin
// (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1).
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
#define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD
#define NEWPANEL





// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
#ifdef LCD_I2C_VIKI
// This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
// Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
// Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
// BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
#define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
#define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
#define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD (requires LiquidTWI2 v1.2.3 or later)
#define NEWPANEL

// Shift register panels
// ---------------------
// 2 wire Non-latching LCD SR from:
// [bitbucket.org]
//#define SR_LCD
#ifdef SR_LCD
#define SR_LCD_2W_NL // Non latching 2 wire shift register
//#define NEWPANEL

// #define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define ULTRA_LCD
#ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the DOG graphic display
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 5
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4
#else //no panel but just LCD
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the 128x64 graphics display
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 5
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2

// default LCD contrast for dogm-like LCD displays
#ifdef DOGLCD
# endif

// Increase the FAN pwm frequency. Removes the PWM noise but increases heating in the FET/Arduino
//#define FAST_PWM_FAN

// Temperature status LEDs that display the hotend and bet temperature.
// If all hotends and bed temperature and temperature setpoint are < 54C then the BLUE led is on.
// Otherwise the RED led is on. There is 1C hysteresis.
//#define TEMP_STAT_LEDS

// Use software PWM to drive the fan, as for the heaters. This uses a very low frequency
// which is not ass annoying as with the hardware PWM. On the other hand, if this frequency
// is too low, you should also increment SOFT_PWM_SCALE.
//#define FAN_SOFT_PWM

// Incrementing this by 1 will double the software PWM frequency,
// affecting heaters, and the fan if FAN_SOFT_PWM is enabled.
// However, control resolution will be halved for each increment;
// at zero value, there are 128 effective control positions.
#define SOFT_PWM_SCALE 0

// M240 Triggers a camera by emulating a Canon RC-1 Remote
// Data from: [www.doc-diy.net]
// #define PHOTOGRAPH_PIN 23

// SF send wrong arc g-codes when using Arc Point as fillet procedure
//#define SF_ARC_FIX

// Support for the BariCUDA Paste Extruder.
//#define BARICUDA

//define BlinkM/CyzRgb Support
//#define BLINKM

* R/C SERVO support
* Sponsored by TrinityLabs, Reworked by codexmas

// Number of servos
// If you select a configuration below, this will receive a default value and does not need to be set manually
// set it manually if you have more servos than extruders and wish to manually control some
// leaving it undefined or defining as 0 will disable the servo subsystem
// If unsure, leave commented / disabled
//#define NUM_SERVOS 3 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command

// Servo Endstops
// This allows for servo actuated endstops, primary usage is for the Z Axis to eliminate calibration or bed height changes.
// Use M206 command to correct for switch height offset to actual nozzle height. Store that setting with M500.
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOPS {-1, -1, 0} // Servo index for X, Y, Z. Disable with -1
//#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {0,0, 0,0, 70,0} // X,Y,Z Axis Extend and Retract angles

* Support for a filament diameter sensor
* Also allows adjustment of diameter at print time (vs at slicing)
* Single extruder only at this point (extruder 0)
* Motherboards
* 34 - RAMPS1.4 - uses Analog input 5 on the AUX2 connector
* 81 - Printrboard - Uses Analog input 2 on the Aux 2 connector
* 301 - Rambo - uses Analog input 3
* Note may require analog pins to be defined for different motherboards
// Uncomment below to enable

#define FILAMENT_SENSOR_EXTRUDER_NUM 0 //The number of the extruder that has the filament sensor (0,1,2)
#define MEASUREMENT_DELAY_CM 14 //measurement delay in cm. This is the distance from filament sensor to middle of barrel

#define DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA 3.0 //Enter the diameter (in mm) of the filament generally used (3.0 mm or 1.75 mm) - this is then used in the slicer software. Used for sensor reading validation
#define MEASURED_UPPER_LIMIT 3.30 //upper limit factor used for sensor reading validation in mm
#define MEASURED_LOWER_LIMIT 1.90 //lower limit factor for sensor reading validation in mm
#define MAX_MEASUREMENT_DELAY 20 //delay buffer size in bytes (1 byte = 1cm)- limits maximum measurement delay allowable (must be larger than MEASUREMENT_DELAY_CM and lower number saves RAM)

//defines used in the code
#define DEFAULT_MEASURED_FILAMENT_DIA DEFAULT_NOMINAL_FILAMENT_DIA //set measured to nominal initially

#include "Configuration_adv.h"
#include "thermistortables.h"

Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 20, 2015 09:01AM
Okay so it seems to be working as it should, just doesnt seem to like manual movements in repeteir.

Another issue has come up, when i now try and home the Z axis, its gets halway up and then the bed drops down again, and then the motor tries to lift it up to z min again, always failing to get it up. Its like it loses power or something.

Anyone have any advice?

Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 20, 2015 11:34AM
1. Check to make sure that your movement is not binding at a certain part of the belt pull. Pull on the belt in the same direction as the motor would to check this. Binding will cause a step skip, and with the weight of the printbed, a step skip becomes a cascade of step skips resulting in the "drop".

2. Increase the power to the z motor. This "drop" is a sign that the power is not sufficient to lift your bed weight. Also, make sure that your printer does not go into a "rest" or "standby" mode on the z axis. These modes will drop the power to the motors when sitting idle and so your motor will be holding fine, and then drop when it enters standby.

3. If you have increased power to max amps for your setup, you need to reduce friction in the system and/or reduce weight of your Z axis.

I have a Z axis on my printer that is belt driven also. Very sturdy, no vibration, and very light. I did use a 400 step motor with 78 oz in holding power, and I have it set to 1 amp.


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2015 11:40AM by patrickrio.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 20, 2015 06:31PM
Thanks Patrick, I think i found the problem. I hadnt adjusted the vref on the DRV8825's and i think they were a bit high, causing them to overheat hit thermal shutdown. The Z driver was really hot when i touched it. This makes sense as i hadnt changed anything since it was working fine. I read online that the purple copies of the DRV8825s (im assuming mine are Chinese copies for the price) come with the voltages at 1.6-1.7, so i think i've managed to adjust them to be about 0.55-0.6v. I tested it this morning with everything cold, and the z axis works as it should, and holds its position after homing.

Is there a precise or measured way to set the stepper voltages for the printer? My motors are rated at 2A. Im guessing at around 0.6v, but ive read someone with a smartrapcore turned them down to 0.25v

Im very new to 3d printers so this is all a steep but fun learning curve.


Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/20/2015 06:53PM by ixlix.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 21, 2015 10:27AM
Understand that I came late to the 3d printer party, and skipped Ramps and 8bit relatives with removable driver completely. I exclusively use 32bit controller boards with integrated drivers and software amperage control. So I am not an expert on your situation by practice, only by reading.....However, I have read a lot so here is what I have:

You are adjusting the Amperage, not Voltage. Your voltage will be set by which power supply you are using.

DRV8825 driver chips can handle up to 2.2 amps per their spec, but this requires adequate copper mass in the circuit board for heat dissipation through the bottom of the driver chips. Those little purple driver boards you have are too small to include this required copper mass, and this is why your drivers are overheating at a lower Amperage setting than 2.2 amps. You can increase the heat dissipation slightly by putting heat sinks on top of the chips, but since the chips are designed to dissipate heat through the bottom, the top heat sinks are not extremely effective.

So, you need to set the amperage below the 2.2 amp spec somewhere. Most builders recommend that you shoot for below 0.8 amps if possible. If you add those heat sinks and fans, you can use a higher amperage, but probably not the full 2.2 amps. Why would you need to set your Z axis higher than 0.8 Amps? Only if you get bed "drops" or step skips due to lack of power.

Since your Z axis is working fine now, not dropping and also not overheating the driver chips, you are done with the necessary adjustments. Your only requirement for the Z axis is that it doesnt skip steps, drop or overheat, and you are set in the range to correctly to accomplish that.

The lower Amps you use to accomplish this, the quieter your printer will be though so you may want to remain at the lower end of the suitable range.

I don't care about noise so much, so I set mine (software set, no screwdrivers) higher, and just try to avoid overheating. It sucks if you are set at the low range sometimes because if you hit a little random extra glob of extruded plastic when set low, it might make the Z axis skip steps or "drop", ruining that print.

If you want to be more accurate, you can adjust the amperage setting to be just as high or low as you need to avoid bed drops and not any more, but this is really nit-picky. Also, if you want to get this anal retentive, you should buy a ceramic screw driver so that you do not accidentally blow drivers and or controller boards while making your frequent adjustments. Metal screwdrivers are the number one reason why people blow these things..... on second thought, buy that ceramic screw driver anyway... you will someday screw up (ha) for sure and kill parts if you use a metal one.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/21/2015 10:42AM by patrickrio.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 21, 2015 11:52PM
Thanks for the great answer Patrick. I believe you are correct that in the end its the amps you are adjusting, but the actual readings from the drivers on the multimeter is in volts, and with the DRV8825 it then multiplied by a factor of 2 to get the resulting amps. So if im aiming at 0.8amps, i need to adjust until i see 0.4v on the multimeter. I found this video from Pololu very helpful... adjusting vref

Im sure it will take a little trial and error but as long as im no longer in risk of damaging anything im happy. thumbs up
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 22, 2015 08:10AM
Yes, it appears that is correct about using the multimeter for setting the manual pots.... Not an expert on the manual setup since mine are set with software where you just choose your amperage with a typed number.

The original designer, when using the original dv8825 shield design, says you can set it up to as high as 1.5amps without cooling and heatsink. They say that at that setting, the driver chip will actually get hot enough to burn you if you touch it, so careful. Other people say you should limit the amps to 0.8 for longevity. https://www.pololu.com/product/2133
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 22, 2015 07:00PM
Awesome thanks Patrick. Ive adjusted them down to .3v so .6amps. I'll see how they go at that for a little while. Ive got some little heatsinks i'll attach but as you said on top of the chips probably wont do much. Worth putting on though.

So i have it dry running, just have to adjust z offset and wire up and attach the heatbed. Whats the best gauge wire for the heatbed?

dry run video

Ive noticed that when i was adjusting the steps per mm for the extruder, and when adjusting the z offset in marlin and then uploading it, the changes wouldnt save. They would however when i used the m92 command through Repetier. Do i need to upload the clear eeprom before reflashing?

Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 23, 2015 08:47AM
Ok, offset is adjusted via the M851 command.

Next problem:

For some reason I now cannot control either the heatbed or hotend temps via Repeteir or Pronterface. I can preheat using the lcd controller and that works fine but not through the software. What am i missing? It did work before, not sure what ive changed. Although the E3D Lite6's fan never came on unless i preheated via the lcd.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 23, 2015 11:17AM
Although the E3D Lite6's fan never came on unless i preheated via the lcd.

I have no idea what your original problem is/was - but if you're talking about the fan that clips onto the hot-end's heatsink then the fan should be permanently wired to 12v so that it runs whenever the printer is on.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 24, 2015 01:00AM
Thanks David, fan is now wired to 12v.

Would the hotend and bednot heating through software be a mosfet problem with the ramps board?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2015 02:04AM by ixlix.
Re: First time build - SmartCore 8mm
October 26, 2015 07:15PM
Ok ive resolved the heating issue, seems to be Repetier-host. Changed to Pronterface and all is working as it should.... and so ive completed my first successful print!!

I think a better Z axis is needed as it tends to move a bit during the print, so i think i'll add this dual z axis on thingyverse.

Now the fun part of tweaking the settings to get some good prints. Heres photos of my first print.... any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. It was printed in ABS at 230' and 80' bed on blue printers tape, and probably at a bit too fast of a speed, 140mm/s.

First Print Video


Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/26/2015 07:22PM by ixlix.
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