Recommended CoreXY for newbie?

Maybe this one:
[forums.reprap.org]

the printer looks to be a nice upgraded version of the d-bot. Still have some room to more improvements:
-32 bit board (duet board or smoothieboard clone)
-replace 6 of the pulley with ones with teeth´s. if you do not use the type of pulley where the teeth of the belt touch the pulley you if get very very small "undulations pattern" on the walls of the print. Is not a big deal, but easy to fix.
-added some aluminum connectors only to increase rigidity of the main structure and bed
-And if you still have money you could buy some nice hiwin 12mm rail instead of the ebay clone.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2016 04:57AM by filipeCampos.

Yes, I was excited by that posting. But I am waiting for more comments on the design . I have no problem investing in all of the components you talked about if the build is sound. I'm primarily worried that the his X and Y axis would flex too much the way he has it. Fully support 1 axis and replace the other with a linear rod perhaps (I figure rods can withstand more force), or just use a very high strength rail.

My other thought is maybe I can redesign the bed on the Voron, use larger rods and lead screws, and improve the electronics wholesale. Lot of work that I'm not sure I'm ready to do, but better than designing everything from scratch.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2016 11:35AM by wbwing.

Quote
wbwing
I'm primarily worried that the his X and Y axis would flex too much the way he has it. Fully support 1 axis and replace the other with a linear rod perhaps (I figure rods can withstand more force), or just use a very high strength rail.

I agree with you.
It was used the linear rails was it was rods. If was me i secure both Y rails directly on the aluminum bar. Securing the Y rails to the printed parts allow to have some room for misalignment.
About the X axis is using a 12mm rail: i think it will work, 12mm rail is like a 10mm rod or better. In my case i would put a 15mm rail because is a really long one (450mm), only to be sure.
the main problem i see is the way it secure the ends of the X rail to the printed parts. A simple metal plate that connect directly the blocks of the rail Y to the X rail solve this.

But is design is still in construction and is very promising.

You can look at sample prints and demo videos of the D-Bot here [www.thingiverse.com]. I think it gives pretty good quality prints for the price. I'm biased since it's my page but i'm not trying to sell anything.

Why are so many people on here against 3dprinted components? This is the RepRap forum, as in 3d printers built with 3d printed parts. This is not high end CNC machine forum. Rep rap 3d printers are supposed do be easily replicated by many people, where parts for machine B can be printed on machine A.

Quote
spauda01
You can look at sample prints and demo videos of the D-Bot here [www.thingiverse.com]. I think it gives pretty good quality prints for the price. I'm biased since it's my page but i'm not trying to sell anything.

Why are so many people on here against 3dprinted components? This is the RepRap forum, as in 3d printers built with 3d printed parts. This is not high end CNC machine forum. Rep rap 3d printers are supposed do be easily replicated by many people, where parts for machine B can be printed on machine A.

3D printed components aren't really strong enough, and if the printer was to be enclosed there would be potential issues with temperature softening the plastic.

While absolutely great for prototyping, real rigidity will come with using metal parts in the final build. Imagine how much you'd spend if you had to have every part you were developing machined in a CNC work shop.

Mind you, there are some stonger filaments available these days that can handle a bit of heat as well. PC, carbon fiber....I guess these might be better.

Quote
spauda01
You can look at sample prints and demo videos of the D-Bot here [www.thingiverse.com]. I think it gives pretty good quality prints for the price. I'm biased since it's my page but i'm not trying to sell anything.

Why are so many people on here against 3dprinted components? This is the RepRap forum, as in 3d printers built with 3d printed parts. This is not high end CNC machine forum. Rep rap 3d printers are supposed do be easily replicated by many people, where parts for machine B can be printed on machine A.

a cheap chinese prusa i3 will give a quality is good from most of persons.
but i think this forum is more about doing the next step and how to improve more. most of use that participate more in this forum already build several printer and simply whant to build the next and better one, and continue to improve.
Selt replicate printer do not exists, is only a expresion that indicate a printer that was build by you.
the idea is to build the best printer with a fixed budget. so why i will tell someone with a 1000 dollars budget to use printed parts? you can go with more robust plastics, but you think it will be better in relation to aluminum?
i can make a very simple exemple: already see several time design that use printed pieces to secure 2020 profile. you could buy a very cheap 1meter aluminum bar with 2cm, cut it 4cm and make 2 holes with 2cm distance. you get a metal connector is better, cheap and made by you. you do not consider this option because is was not printed and so it was not 'self replicate'?
like this one:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2016 07:42PM by filipeCampos.

Actually, seeing the results from the D-bot was what inspired me to build my own printer in the first place. I was extremely impressed with the machine and helped me realize that a 3d printer that is actually worth it can be built on a reasonable budget.. That said, whatever I build, I want to push far with exotic materials and functional parts. I'd like it to be as robust as possible with a reasonable budget so I can spend time using it instead of rebuilding or fiddling with it. Out of everything I've looked at, D-bot still looks like the most functionally sound printer, so it is still high on my list of which printer I will finally go with.

Any news wbwing? Did you decide on a printer?

I currently own an Ormerod Mk1 that I struggle a lot with. Too much to enjoy the world of 3D printing to be honest. That's why I recently have been looking into building a new, more rigid one. I have friends with the Prusa i3 and they are all very happy with it. However, I find the step from Ormerod to Prusa i3 a bit boring for some reason and I keep finding myself coming back to the D-Bot which looks really nice and I'm impressed by the YT print videos.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2017 03:10PM by bitfield.

Just thought I would let you know that I recently built a D-Bot and have found it works very well in the print quality department.
I would recommend that you obtain duet hardware,especially the duetwifi.

I have a duetwifi, dueX5 expansion board and a dc42 mini Z probe with a E3Dv6 lite hot end and a modified extruder, similar to the ormerod original.

---

appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
firmware 3.1.1 Web Interface 3.1.1
Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

Ok ladies and gentlemen here's my 2cents.

Complete designs with cut lists, BOM's and assembly instructions are pretty much non existent or if they are they aren't what you want.

CoreXY is the design, so all you are doing is sorting out how to hold the bits together to make the design work.


Make a list of features for your machine.

Variables.
Frame construction. Flat panel or extrusion.
Motion. Linear rail, smooth rod, V slot. (in that order IMHO)
Extruder. Remote drive, direct (geared) drive, bowden.
Z axis system. 2 or 3 ball screw plus rail or smooth rod, belt plus rail or smooth rod, cantilever single screw dual rail or rod.
Heated bed. Low or high voltage.

No brainers IMHO
32 bit controller on 24volts. Duet support is worth the cost alone.
XY belt drive plus toothed and smooth idlers (6mm or 9mm but 6mm is easier to source)
0.9 degree XY steppers.
Single axis cable chain to the effector.

What tools do you have? If you built from aluminium composite panel (ACP) and simple aluminium extrusion I think a machine can be made with as little as a hand drill, jigsaw, hacksaw, file, and a few taps. If you use 2020 or Vslot you also need a drop saw for accuracy.

No plastic parts should be needed.

Use Fusion 360 to work out where to put every thing. If you don't already use it do it as an exercise for making printable parts.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2017 04:43PM by RodF.

I had almost decided for the D-Bot already when I found the VORON printer. Looks a bit neater and I tend to like those aluminum extrusion corners better. It uses smooth rods instead of linear rail however. Is that considered worse?
I prefer to pick a design and go with its BOM (perhaps with just minor adjustments). I have neither time nor knowledge to design one myself.

edit/ Hmm, maybe I was confusing linear rails and v-slot now

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2017 10:19AM by bitfield.

For those asking for a Voron kit, just found this but do not know if it is reliable or not as a site / shop (never purchased from it): [mzbot.us]

---

Disclaimer: io ce la metto tutta a darti consigli sensati, sta a te non incendiare nulla :-)
CoreXY HyperCube. [www.thingiverse.com] | Cerchi test? Make: test set: [www.thingiverse.com]