Pulley size

What is the best pulley size for X and Y corexy roughly 300x300x300 build size.

Define best.

Z has no pulleys

SDP/SI's recommendation for pulleys with the teeth contacting a smooth pulley surface is a diameter equivalent to a 40 tooth gear. With 2mm pitch GT2 belt, a 40 tooth pulley would have 80 mm circumference (approximately), so a diameter of 80/pi= 25.5 mm (about an inch). I used stacked F608zz bearings to make pulleys for my XY stage. They are a little smaller than the recommendation at 22mm in diameter.

Oh yeah, my Z axis will have pulleys. Not a belt connecting multiple lead screws, but an entirely belt-driven Z axis. The same rule of thumb applies. I also used f608zz bearings in the Z axis.

From a layout perspective, the are some advantages to using a two level belt structure in the XY stage instead of putting the belts and pulleys all on one level. Ultimately you trade horizontal space for vertical space. The two level set up helps minimize the machines footprint. The add height isn't usually a problem.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/11/2017 01:40PM by the_digital_dentist.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Ok thanks for help.
What mainboard would you use,Is it worth upgrading my arduino 256

The Arduino/RAMPS combo has sufficient processing power to implement a CoreXY printer, but there are other considerations. With Arduino/RAMPS you have to deal with unreliable motor driver modules for which you're never really sure how much current you've got in the motor. Perhaps more importantly you have to recompile the firmware to make configuration changes (after you search through multiple config files to find where you need to make those changes). Sure, it works fine today, but in a year or two when you decide to change extruders or make other changes, will the latest Arduino IDE be able to compile the firmware, or will you have to hunt down obsolete IDE to compile the firmware?

I use a SmoothieBoard because it saves a lot of time and effort. The motor drivers are reliable because they are properly heat-sinked to the large ground plane in the main circuit board. All configuration variables are stored in one text file. To make changes to the configuration, you edit the text file and reboot the board. There's no compiling and no maintaining a working copy of the compiler. It doesn't sound like such a big difference but I have used Arduino/RAMPS and I would never go back to it. There's a lot of documentation on the SmoothieBoard and firmware and it's easy to get support when you need it via Google groups and IRC.

The Duet boards are supposed to be pretty good, too, but I haven't used one yet so I'll leave it to others to sing their praises.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Is there any UK suppliers of smoothie boards and are there different types.

Quote
the_digital_dentist
The Duet boards are supposed to be pretty good, too, but I haven't used one yet so I'll leave it to others to sing their praises.

I'll take that as an invitation to step in.

There are two Duets in current production: the Duet 085 and the Duet WiFi. Both are manufactured in the UK (Scotland to be precise).

The Duet 085 is very similar in features to the Smoothieboard 1.0 even though it costs less. Its processor is 30% slower than the Smoothie's but it has 50% more RAM and a much faster SD card interface. The biggest difference is that the Duet supports a good web interface with no additional hardware, including fast (up to 1Mbyte/sec) gcode file upload to the built-in SD card. This is possible because of the faster SD card interface and the additional RAM. See [reprap.org] for screen shots. The latest version also provides visualisation of the bed height map generated by mesh bed probing.

The Duet WiFi is a second-generation 32-bit board. It uses a Cortex M4 processor with built-in floating point hardware instead of the M3 used by the Duet 085 and Smoothieboard 1, and TMC2660 stepper drivers with up to 256x microstepping. Smoothieboard fans will have to wait for the V2 to get these improvements. Price is about the same as the Smoothieboard 1.0 + add-on 5V regulator.

As its name suggests, the Duet WiFi provides a WiFi connection instead of Ethernet. In 2-3 months from now there will also be the Duet Ethernet, which is essentially a Duet WiFi but with Ethernet instead of WiFi.

One other difference between the Duets and the Smoothieboard is in the LCDs they they support. The Duets only support high-resolution colour touch screens (4.3", 5" and 7"). These are nice to use but quite pricey. The Smoothieboard currently only supports inexpensive low-resolution monochrome LCDs with a separate rotary encoder; but it may be getting support for the colour touch screens soon. Many Duet users don't bother with an LCD because you can use a tablet or smartphone to control the printer via the web interface.

I co-designed the Duet WiFi and I manufacture the touch panel controller board, so of course I am biased. But you'll find many posts in these forums from Duet users.

The Duet 085 can be purchased in the UK from Think3dPrint here [www.think3dprint3d.com]. The Duet WiFi can be purchased here [www.duet3d.com] and you can find the documentation on that site too.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2017 05:18AM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks for info.

Is it easy to setup a Duet for a corexy printer.

I don't have a Duet yet, but from what I've read, you just change the text file on the SD card and then boot up the Duet and it is then set.

-os3dp

Is there a pre compiled setup for a corexy printer like for the arduino boards.

The Duet doesn't need to be compiled for different settings. All of the configuration is set in the text file on the SD card. The firmware on the Duet only needs to be upgraded when a new version comes out, but the configuration is set in the text file. IMHO, A beautiful design.

-os3dp

But how do you know what to put in the text file?

Check this out.

[reprap.org]

-os3dp

Thanks

Quote
mrorange26
Is it easy to setup a Duet for a corexy printer.

Absolutely painless - follow the guidance on dc42's website (just one or two commands in the config file) and you're away.

Link to RepRap wiki guidance

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2017 01:32PM by David J.

Could you send me a link to his site.

Sorry - I was a bit slow there!
(see above)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2017 01:33PM by David J.

Thanks.

Btw the easiest way to generate the configuration and homing files is to use the tool at [configurator.reprapfirmware.org], although currently it doesn't generate quite the right homing file for a CoreXY printer.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Ok thanks.
Anybody tried one of these
[www.3dpmav.com]

Quote
mrorange26
Ok thanks.
Anybody tried one of these
[www.3dpmav.com]

You can find a thread about that board in the Controllers section of these forums. The Smoothieware folks don't like supporting it because it is clearly a derivative of Smoothieboard but MKS doesn't publish the schematic or board layout, which is almost certainly in violation of the Smoothieboard GPL. Neither have they contributed anything to Smoothieware or Smoothieboard development. But someone people like it. If you believe that developers should be rewarded for their work and for publishing it open source, avoid that board.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2017 05:00PM by dc42.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I've seen MKS SBASE boards at v1.3 now, possibly 1.4. I think I'd look for the latest version because I know they had some problems with the earliest version.

Those boards use DRV8825s which whine and don't do low speed microstepping well. You can add diodes to fix the microstepping problem, but I don't know if there's anything to be done about the whining. I'd avoid anything that uses the DRV8825s.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/14/2017 04:43PM by the_digital_dentist.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]