FuseBox2 Printer
July 12, 2017 09:57PM
After 2 years of printing with my FuseBox, I've been working on a successor design. Predictably named the FuseBox2, it takes the low-price and accessibility of the original and makes improvements upon reliability, quality, and speed.



Here's an album of the build: http://imgur.com/a/Kdmro
Github repo: [github.com] // Thingiverse page: [www.thingiverse.com]

Key improvements include a much more rigid 2020/2040 frame, vertical gantry for easier hotend removal, improved cooling duct that doesn't focus air on the heater block, and more robust endstop mounts.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the way the printer's turning out. I still need to mount the LCD, PSU, and cord socket as well as do some more fine tuning to the firmware/slicer settings.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 14, 2017 09:29AM
Looks good, though the gantry must be pretty heavy - how quickly (in minutes) did you print that 3DBenchy? How did you join profiles together w/o the corner brackets? I also see you've switched from horizontal to vertical X axis. Do you like the new arrangement better? I think horizontal should be more precise because you can control slop in the horizontal plane where it counts.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 14, 2017 01:53PM
The gantry should be a similar weight - there's a bit more ducting for the fans, but the plastic doesn't weigh much compared to the metal parts (in my case it's probably lighter because I used an E3DV6 instead of a Lite6).

The vertical axis has several benefits - it serves to improve hotend cooling, increase y movement range, and make the hotend easier to remove - so far it doesn't seem to be less precise since ringing does appear to be more controlled. I did reinforce the x-ends in the design afterwards, though the prototype doesn't have those installed and seems ok.

I joined the extrusions by drilling and tapping - each extrusion has its ends tapped and screwed down for a super rigid frame (see http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?177,601562).. It's both cheaper and likely stronger than the corner brackets.

Biggest issue right now is probably a minor amount of z artifacts - that may be due to the cheap bearings that I bought.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 16, 2017 11:18PM
I somehow ended up fixing the printer's banding issues by pushing the leadscrew all the way down into the flex coupler - effectively making the motor to leadscrew connection rigid.
Here's a before/after pic:


Print quality's looking great now!
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 17, 2017 01:31AM
I have placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew. That way the z-compression is "0" but the coupler can still flex.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 17, 2017 05:23AM
Quote
o_lampe
I have placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew. That way the z-compression is "0" but the coupler can still flex.

That's a good idea, any pictures of the quality or banding (or lack of)?
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 17, 2017 03:11PM
Quote
o_lampe
I have placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew. That way the z-compression is "0" but the coupler can still flex.

Would a printed sphere work as well?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2017 03:12PM by AlexY.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 18, 2017 02:05AM
Quote
AlexY
Quote
o_lampe
I have placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew. That way the z-compression is "0" but the coupler can still flex.

Would a printed sphere work as well?

I don't know how to print a 4.5mm ball?! I guess its not round enough.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 18, 2017 02:12AM
Quote
Origamib
Quote
o_lampe
I have placed a 4.5mm steelball between stepper shaft and leadscrew. That way the z-compression is "0" but the coupler can still flex.

That's a good idea, any pictures of the quality or banding (or lack of)?

I could show you some perfect prints winking smiley , but only a before_after comparison would make sense. But I haven't made any pics without the balls inserted.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 18, 2017 12:08PM
Nice to see there is better hotend and part cooling fans with this version. With many people moving away from cantilevered beds and smooth rods, is there any reason you decided to keep them other than price? Thanks!
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 18, 2017 12:23PM
I'm going to guess simplicity.... It is very hard to deny the simplicity of a cantilevered bed, and the extra space it gives you to work with. It removes a lot of constraints from the design.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 18, 2017 01:14PM
Yeah, mostly simplicity and reduced cost. The 2020 makes it a lot more rigid than the previous revision, and for a 200mm bed size a cantilevered bed is adequate.

I went for smooth rods mainly because they were more accessible - linear guides are a bit harder to find and can be a lot more expensive. A hybrid version with a linear guide only for the x gantry would be interesting, providing the benefit of reduced gantry weight without increasing cost too much.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 18, 2017 01:17PM
Quote
o_lampe
I don't know how to print a 4.5mm ball?! I guess its not round enough.

What about a hemisphere/dome? That would make it easier to print without support, and the top would be round to allow the leadscrew to tilt a bit.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 19, 2017 10:45AM
608 bearing has 4mm balls in it. If you want the ball centered, print a little 5mm OD washer and place the bearing in it.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 19, 2017 01:26PM
4.5mm steelballs are pretty common in countries where airguns are allowed. It's a standard ammonition size.
Re: FuseBox2 Printer
July 19, 2017 07:14PM
Quote
newbob
608 bearing has 4mm balls in it. If you want the ball centered, print a little 5mm OD washer and place the bearing in it.

Quote
o_lampe
4.5mm steelballs are pretty common in countries where airguns are allowed. It's a standard ammonition size.

Thanks for the tips smiling smiley
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