Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 16, 2017 02:22PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 5,780 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 16, 2017 06:23PM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 16, 2017 07:13PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
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the_digital_dentist
If the bed is 600 x 550 mm, it is going to expand a lot when heated. You might want to consider what happens to/at the leveling screws when that happens.
I didn't care too much for glass when it was on my first printer. These days I like PEI- prints stick and are relatively easy to remove when the time comes. No glue, no hairspray...
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 16, 2017 07:15PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Quote
dc42
The main advantages of using a glass bed plate are that you can put it in the freezer if the print won't release easily, and you can swap plates to allow you to start a new print before the bed has cooled down after finishing the previous one. However, when the bed is as large as yours will be, neither of those really applies. Therefore, if you use tooling plate for the heat spreader, then you may as well stick your chosen bed surface (PEI, polycarbonate etc.) directly on the heat spreader.
If you choose to use glass, I suggest 4mm float glass from your local glazing supplier.
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 16, 2017 11:38PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 5,780 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 17, 2017 03:32AM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Zasquatch
Quote
dc42
The main advantages of using a glass bed plate are that you can put it in the freezer if the print won't release easily, and you can swap plates to allow you to start a new print before the bed has cooled down after finishing the previous one. However, when the bed is as large as yours will be, neither of those really applies. Therefore, if you use tooling plate for the heat spreader, then you may as well stick your chosen bed surface (PEI, polycarbonate etc.) directly on the heat spreader.
If you choose to use glass, I suggest 4mm float glass from your local glazing supplier.
What do you use? My original plan was to stick a sheet of build-tak right to the mic6, but someone suggested I still use glass. That allows for flexibility if a certain material doesn’t like build tak ( or whatever else) and you can just swap the glass.
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 17, 2017 09:18PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 20, 2017 08:32PM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 02:25AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 05:30AM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
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prot0typ1cal
Seems there's room for a NEMA23, though using a worm drive gear box will also end any dropping worries.
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 08:02AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 10:49AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 11:28AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 11:44AM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Quote
the_digital_dentist
If your current 83.6 oz-in motor isn't enough to lift the bed, why would 56 oz-in (motor detent torque x gear ratio) be enough to stop it from falling?
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 01:11PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Quote
the_digital_dentist
The motor's detent torque will be multiplied by the gear ratio. If you know the holding torque required to stop the screw from turning when it is loaded with a print, select a gear ratio that brings the detent torque of the motor up to that value and the bed won't move when power is cut.
Or use a worm gear reducer...(but not all worm gear drives are going to do the job)
Is that a thrust bearing up at the motor mount end of the screw?
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 01:43PM |
Registered: 7 years ago Posts: 249 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 02:09PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Quote
prot0typ1cal
BTW, the open box Z nut mount should be turned 90 degrees, so the openings are top and bottom, not side to side...
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 02:41PM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 5,780 |
Quote
Zasquatch
Quote
the_digital_dentist
If your current 83.6 oz-in motor isn't enough to lift the bed, why would 56 oz-in (motor detent torque x gear ratio) be enough to stop it from falling?
Friction!
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 21, 2017 03:03PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Quote
the_digital_dentist
Quote
Zasquatch
Quote
the_digital_dentist
If your current 83.6 oz-in motor isn't enough to lift the bed, why would 56 oz-in (motor detent torque x gear ratio) be enough to stop it from falling?
Friction!
Realy? How much friction does a planetary gear box add?
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 22, 2017 05:35AM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Quote
the_digital_dentist
Or use a worm gear reducer...(but not all worm gear drives are going to do the job)
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 22, 2017 09:15AM |
Registered: 11 years ago Posts: 5,780 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 22, 2017 09:27AM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 22, 2017 12:52PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 14,672 |
Quote
Zasquatch
If I reduce micro stepping will that help with speed? Can I reduce to 1/4 step (getting me to 4800 steps/mm), but leave on 1/256 interpolation to keep things smooth?
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build November 22, 2017 03:56PM |
Registered: 6 years ago Posts: 54 |
Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build December 01, 2017 08:40AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build December 09, 2017 10:00AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build December 16, 2017 05:43PM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build December 31, 2017 10:58AM |
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Re: Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build June 21, 2019 10:18AM |
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