Which CoreXY Build ?

Hello Everyone,
I would like to build a nice CoreXY printer.

- I was pretty much dead set on a Hypercube Evolution, then eventually kind of turned off by the Linear Rods.
- Next I was pretty interested in the D-Bot / Re-D-Bot / J-Bot (but with upgrades, z-axis wheels on all four corners, 1sPiRe's mods from thingiverse, that makes it way nicer and modern and supports a 300x300 build plate)
But the thing about the D-Bot is i am not sure that v slot wheels are honestly that much better, I know i could probably do a linear rail upgrade, or similar but the fact that there is no sleek way to enclose a D-Bot is also kind of a turn off.
- Finally everybody seems to be raving about the Voron 2, maybe once the BOM is released i will definitely consider it, it seems to fit my criteria perfectly, looks really nice, enclosed, linear rails, etc. but the chance of the BOM coming out for it is who knows when..


That being said, I would really like to make a 300Y x 300X x 300Z+/-
would be cool if it could be easily enclosed but i guess its not technically necessary.
I would like a heavy duty build that will last.


So what is your guys thoughts?
Anything that I didn't mention here that I should look into? if not out of these two, the upgraded D-Bot and Hypercube Evolution which would you go with and why? Do you know something I dont and is there finally a ETA on the Voron 2 BOM? etc.

Let me know what you think and any suggestions.
Thanks!

Read
"My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage"

[reprap.org]

The Digital Dentist knows core XY

Quote
cozmicray
Read
"My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage"

[reprap.org]

The Digital Dentist knows core XY

that is funny you say that because I was on his blog all night last night and fell in love with the belt driven Z axis.
didn't even realize he was on here until a little bit ago when i was looking around and saw his thread and thought wow I was just drooling over htis last night!
ha .

I would love to create a shorter cube form factor with a belt driven Z axis, but I see i would have to mill quite a bit of parts and use far more expensive parts.
So look like it might be best to implement that after building something like the D-Bot / HEVO.
though if I could convert as much as possible to 3d Printed parts and still use a belt driven design on the Z that would be cool. but that also still seems like something that I should do later. Start with the confirmed designs then move on to testing stuff myself.

Though the U shaped bed brace and the belt driven Z does seem like an absolute win.

It wouldn't be entirely necessary to mill many of the parts. Most of the milling I did was because it was a little neater and I had easy access to milling machines. The rectangular tubes I used for the XY stage don't have to be milled at all, and if you're not to picky about how it looks, you could just cut the pieces with a hack saw and call them done. I do recommend milling the ends of the frame pieces so you can avoid having to use a lot of angle brackets by screwing the frame members directly to each other.

In UMMD the Z axis guide rails sit in milled channels in the t-slot because the t-slot I used has concave surfaces. I have recently acquired more t-slot from a scrap yard that has flat surfaces, so we know that type of stuff is available, and wouldn't require milling channels for the linear guides.

The worm gear drive I used is a pretty expensive part. If you've been looking at my blog you may have seen my one attempt (so far) to make a cheaper worm gear drive that was a failure. I think you could arrange a few pulleys and belts to get about a 30-50:1 reduction that would provide high precision motion and either completely prevent bed drop or at least slow it down to the point that it doesn't matter.

The best thing to do is probably look at a bunch of designs, decide what you like and don't like about them, and cobble together something of your own that uses the best stuff from the others and leaves out the bad stuff. That approach yields maximum learning, maximum satisfaction, and a printer that is uniquely your own.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Another CoreXY design is the RailCore, see [forum.seemecnc.com]. I've not built a CoreXY printer so I have no idea which design is best.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks DC42. I'll have to check that out.
Also looking over open builds community. There is a lot of nice stuff there but seems very little put together in practice. I mainly leaned to hypercube evolution and d-bot for the very large community of users to assist if anything goes wrong.

But the digital dentist. I think you are absolutely right. Ill have to just look everything over and see how I can implement it myself in my own design. However doing it this way does remove the community aspect, but you are right it would be far more satisfying.
I was looking for a decent worm gear, looks like you got a hell of a deal on that Rino. I'm jealous. Hopefully another opportunity for one pops up on eBay at a reasonable price. I see some others there for a Nema23 but they are quite bulky and hideous, but worst case they should work.

It's funny I've never witnessed a worm gear in use until your printer, then I was taking apart my daughters baby swing and see it uses what appears to be a PET worm gear for the rocking action. However the motor only steps forward a few mm, and allows gravity to push it back. Pretty neat.

I'm going to have to fire up solid works and see what I can design and see if I can come up with something reasonable. But I'm not an engineer so I'll definitely be seeking lots of inspiration.

[www.ebay.com]

The guy has hundreds of them...

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Quote
the_digital_dentist
[www.ebay.com]

The guy has hundreds of them...

LOL thanks. I guess I limeted my search too much by searching rino worm gear and nema worm gear.
Thanks a lot. That ain't half bad. I think that is back on the table

ive built a HEVO 300x300x300 and while its a good printer there a little to much flex on x-axis at 300mm.

I could start beefing up the smooth rods but thats adding weight which was the point of building a corexy.

A couple of things i would suggest is a solid heatbed, i have a 8mm cast alloy plate and a 750w 240v heater and ive only levelled once, i brought a bltouch which is a bit of a waste when your beds solid. I also had both leadscrew running off one stepper to stop any errors accumulating.

Alot depends on your budget too, linear rails,32 bit controller, cast heatbed all builds up the cost but as they say buy cheap buy twice.

I've taken cues from several builds I've followed for my own printer. I will say 90% of the initial design was planned out entirely in my head. I was thrilled once I cobbled it together well enough to get some crude prints output. It was then that I've gone though a series of design iterations to get the right amount of rigidity, and print quality by using the printer to upgrade itself. Having zero background in mechanical design, I can honestly say that I've learned a great deal through the process (failure is often the best teacher). I'm still finalizing aspects of the build (z-axis and build plate need stability improvements), and I intend to share it here with a full BOM and photos once it is complete. I don't expect anyone to necessarily want to copy my work, but I do feel I would at least be giving something back to the community that provided me with the inspiration and information necessary to get started with reprap and fdm printing.