Hypercube - Uneven Layer Lines / Z axis banding

Here a typical example of bad use of regular nuts. Bad when the nut is to be inserted side wise ! One of the reason kits made with acrylic plates are worthless junk.
[www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/08/2019 02:39AM by MKSA.

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"A comical prototype doesn't mean a dumb idea is possible" (Thunderf00t)

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Mogal

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AmyTheBun
also that wasn't very nice some of us just want a 3d printer that works. specially a lot of us don't have time or money to spend on a printer like this. you know how long it takes to try on a new carriage or y carriage! swapping it takes a day!

Sorry, was just suppose to be a reality check... I didn't mean anything bad.

As for time it takes.. uhm, yeah I know all too well how long it takes.
I started with a hypercube. And although its still a core XY, it's by no means a hypercube anymore.

Just like the troubles your having with rigidity, I too was having those issues. Then the rails started to fail.
So over the last 5-6 months, I've been designing and machining the new machine (mostly out of aluminum)
And over the last couple of days, I've been testing and tweaking the machine.

It takes time, but if you take that time, learn the intricacies, you too can have a great quality printer!
Keep it up like you are, and you'll be there in no time! And you'll be thankful you did!

what were the main things that improved your print quality. maybe you can give me some pointers or heck join the hyper cube evo-s thing if eel like designing a printer from scratch tbh but that takes money
I don't think i can get aluminium printer parts here either sadly.

oh and also here is my latest print with the new xy motor mount I designed. the "put a cube on top and remove what's necessary" tip was really amazing. this thing will probably never even shake a fraction of a mm!
also a few of my friends are telling me that my hypercube is just fine and that i'm paranoid. here are some prints along with the motor mount i designed. [photos.app.goo.gl] am I too paranoid?

Over all, I'd say your prints are very good.
To improve them? Maybe the extrusion rate, temps, jerk and acceleration settings.
There is a tiny bit of ringing, but it's small and might not be able to get rid of it all.

As for what improved mine? Regidity. Losing the cantilevered bed design.
Tweaking my feeds/speed, extrusion, jerk and excel settings. Making sure the frame is
tight and square. No vibration/rattling. Belts are straight, tight and aligned.
I also placed silicon dampening feet on the frame as well.
I also splurged with 0.9deg steppers and went with a 3:1 z axis with 8mm diam, 2mm lead screws.
Duet 2 Wifi as well. And yes, I spent WAY too much money on this, but it's one of my hobbies,
and I can use the replaced parts for other projects.

If your designing your own parts, it just takes time.
Not much money, unless you change out everything like I did.

It's a hobby, take your time, enjoy it! Be critical and make awesome prints.

What software are you designing in/slicing with?

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Custom all metal CoreXY
- Duet 2 Wifi w/ PanelDue 7i
- 330mm x 360mm x 500mm
- 750w Silicon heater

Custom Mendel90
(Backup printer - Old reliable!) - Sold

Quote
Mogal
Over all, I'd say your prints are very good.
To improve them? Maybe the extrusion rate, temps, jerk and acceleration settings.
There is a tiny bit of ringing, but it's small and might not be able to get rid of it all.

As for what improved mine? Regidity. Losing the cantilevered bed design.
Tweaking my feeds/speed, extrusion, jerk and excel settings. Making sure the frame is
tight and square. No vibration/rattling. Belts are straight, tight and aligned.
I also placed silicon dampening feet on the frame as well.
I also splurged with 0.9deg steppers and went with a 3:1 z axis with 8mm diam, 2mm lead screws.
Duet 2 Wifi as well. And yes, I spent WAY too much money on this, but it's one of my hobbies,
and I can use the replaced parts for other projects.

If your designing your own parts, it just takes time.
Not much money, unless you change out everything like I did.

i use prusaslicer and design in fusion 360. my flow rate and e-steps are calibrated.

It's a hobby, take your time, enjoy it! Be critical and make awesome prints.

What software are you designing in/slicing with?

I don't mind the ringing. with bowden i could go to 45 without ringing but with direct drive i ring at 30mm/s the mount i use leans the weight to a direction but i think it' sjust my flimsy 8mm rods because i get far less ringing near the origin of my bed (0,0) compared to the middle. i odn't mind it tho. thinking of doing linear rails for the X axis only

today my abs print came out horribly inconsistent. i'm kind of out of ideas on what to do.

also you said"As for what improved mine? Rigidity. Losing the cantilevered bed design." i already use dual z with 4 rods so my bed is like a tank

but i'm not sure if my belts are aligned. and I have no idea on how to fix it considering the hypercube doesn't have any adjustment options.

I'm waiting for the sk-go to be available again. then I can buy one have this cube to fix in the meanwhile. but the sk-go sounds so amazing! the print quality they showed and teachingtech showed on youtube were stunning!
but yeah right now i'm out of options tbh. like i have no idea what to do next. i made far better motor mounts but yeah...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2019 10:22AM by AmyTheBun.

4 guide rails for the Z axis isn't usually a good idea. Guide rails are there to constrain lateral motion and guide motion in the Z direction. If you use just one, the bed can rotate around it. Adding a second one parallel to the first prevents that rotation. That's all you need. Adding a third and fourth rail will likely cause the bed to walk up and down and that can result in bad Z axis quality. Try reducing the Z axis guide rail count, leaving the rails that are closest to the screws in place.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

if I remove them nothing changes. also my bed will be REALLY easy to wobble if I do maybe the big 30x300 bed combined with plastic parts?

also i'm using rods not rails

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/14/2019 05:17AM by AmyTheBun.

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AmyTheBun
but i'm not sure if my belts are aligned. and I have no idea on how to fix it considering the hypercube doesn't have any adjustment options..

If you're referring to a belt that drives the Z axis screws, you align the screws by putting the bed into a known position (at the top or bottom of the rails) and then loosen the set screws on one of the pulleys to allow the screw to spin freely, then tighten the set screws on that pulley. The "known position" should be easily repeatable in case you have to go though the alignment procedure again. That means there should be mechanical stops on one end of the guide rails that are positioned so that the bed is forced into a position that is parallel to the X or Y axis (depending on how you've positioned the screws).

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]