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Tronxy X5SA Pro - Marlin settings, removing auto level sensor and adding limit switch

Posted by Recoil1980 
Currently I am having some issues with the proximity sensor that came with the printer (see here), so I have hooked up the extra limit switch that it came with and wired it to the board.

Does anyone know what settings to change in Marlin to remove the proximity sensor and just use the limit switch instead? I am not clear on what I am supposed to comment and uncomment.
Re: Tronxy X5SA Pro - Marlin settings, removing auto level sensor and adding limit switch
October 12, 2020 03:58PM
Are you still using the Chitu board? I am still running the TronXY firmware on the board after removing the prox sensor, adding a borosilicate glass bed and the Z-stop sensor. I also moved to an E3Dv6 hot end and am considering a move to a Hemera.

I got my X5SA Pro in March 2020, and they are known for changing controller hardware on a whim. So I am going to bug you with a lot of questions!
What is your board, is it still a Chitu 32 board?
Can it still use the touch screen with Marlin?
What flavor of Marlin? I assume 2.x so it supports the 32 bit boards?

1.x Marlin only requires that you comment out the auto bed level sections, like these:
//#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_ in the Configuration.h file.

Do not know about Marlin 2.x

DLC


Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3Dv6).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.
Sorry I am just getting back around to responding.

I eventually sent the printer back. I think the sensor was just bad, then the LCD screen went white and I was unable to use it at all. I spend the extra money and got an Ender 5 Plus. So far the new one is running, but there are still a few issues with it.
Re: Tronxy X5SA Pro - Marlin settings, removing auto level sensor and adding limit switch
November 03, 2020 02:05PM
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Recoil1980
Sorry I am just getting back around to responding.

I eventually sent the printer back. I think the sensor was just bad, then the LCD screen went white and I was unable to use it at all. I spend the extra money and got an Ender 5 Plus. So far the new one is running, but there are still a few issues with it.

No big. I figured it out.
I have never liked the inductive sensors and this one is no different. I have modified my X5SA Pro and am happy with it.
Removed bed sensor
Added borosilicate glass bed
Added Z-stop sensor
Lined the two Z steppers with a belt, so they never go out of sync
Removed stock hot end and replaced it with a E3Dv6 and modified fan duct
Boosted the acceleration and jerk specs to speed up the printer

The filament out detector failed a couple of months from when I turned the printer on. So I disabled that in firmware too.

Now the printer is consistent and reliable. It isn't an awesome printer, but it is pretty decent for $400 (plus the new hot end). And a 330x330mm bed is quite useful.

DLC


Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3Dv6).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.
Quote
dlc60

No big. I figured it out.
I have never liked the inductive sensors and this one is no different. I have modified my X5SA Pro and am happy with it.
Removed bed sensor
Added borosilicate glass bed
Added Z-stop sensor
Lined the two Z steppers with a belt, so they never go out of sync
Removed stock hot end and replaced it with a E3Dv6 and modified fan duct
Boosted the acceleration and jerk specs to speed up the printer

The filament out detector failed a couple of months from when I turned the printer on. So I disabled that in firmware too.

Now the printer is consistent and reliable. It isn't an awesome printer, but it is pretty decent for $400 (plus the new hot end). And a 330x330mm bed is quite useful.

DLC

Hi there ! I have purchased a Tronxy x5sa pro and like you, I want to remove the proximity sensor. I already have the Z limit switch installed but how did you manage to wire it? Have you done something special in the chitu gcode?
I have also installed a direct drive with e3dv6 extruder and homemade fan duct. Do you have cad files of your setup?
Thanks
Quote
dlc60
Quote
Recoil1980
Sorry I am just getting back around to responding.

I eventually sent the printer back. I think the sensor was just bad, then the LCD screen went white and I was unable to use it at all. I spend the extra money and got an Ender 5 Plus. So far the new one is running, but there are still a few issues with it.

No big. I figured it out.
I have never liked the inductive sensors and this one is no different. I have modified my X5SA Pro and am happy with it.
Removed bed sensor
Added borosilicate glass bed
Added Z-stop sensor
Lined the two Z steppers with a belt, so they never go out of sync
Removed stock hot end and replaced it with a E3Dv6 and modified fan duct
Boosted the acceleration and jerk specs to speed up the printer

The filament out detector failed a couple of months from when I turned the printer on. So I disabled that in firmware too.

Now the printer is consistent and reliable. It isn't an awesome printer, but it is pretty decent for $400 (plus the new hot end). And a 330x330mm bed is quite useful.

DLC

I too am interested on how you achieved this.

However, I am on Marlin 2.0 firmware, and no more hotends-into-bed ever since!

BPD
I have a X5SA-Pro with the Chitu v6 board.
Like most here initially thought there was something weird with the sensor... crashed the nozzle into the bed several times and having lost lotsa hair trying to figure out what was the issue.
The main problem with this printer is the implementation of marlin on the software side and the fact that the double Z aren't synch'd, hardware wise.
I ended up going to marlin 2.0 bug fix because I really wanted to see if there would be a difference and indeed it was pretty impressive...
got better speeds, better quality, better movement and will state that printer is quieter.
BUT, marlin is buggy AF and that's using the bugfix lol... it's actually so buggy that I could run the same config twice, one would succeed, the other would fail.
Most recently, yesterday's bf download won't even compile with the config that I'm actually running on the printer LOL!

For those who are asking about the Z fixed endstop, it's relatively simple; disable the probe and make sure your Z endstop is enabled. Compile, flash
VSCode, creates a cbd, just pop this on an SD and start printer with SD inserted... it'll beep a few times and start.

HTH
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lenigma1
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dlc60
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Recoil1980
Sorry I am just getting back around to responding.

I eventually sent the printer back. I think the sensor was just bad, then the LCD screen went white and I was unable to use it at all. I spend the extra money and got an Ender 5 Plus. So far the new one is running, but there are still a few issues with it.

No big. I figured it out.
I have never liked the inductive sensors and this one is no different. I have modified my X5SA Pro and am happy with it.
Removed bed sensor
Added borosilicate glass bed
Added Z-stop sensor
Lined the two Z steppers with a belt, so they never go out of sync
Removed stock hot end and replaced it with a E3Dv6 and modified fan duct
Boosted the acceleration and jerk specs to speed up the printer

The filament out detector failed a couple of months from when I turned the printer on. So I disabled that in firmware too.

Now the printer is consistent and reliable. It isn't an awesome printer, but it is pretty decent for $400 (plus the new hot end). And a 330x330mm bed is quite useful.

DLC

I too am interested on how you achieved this.

However, I am on Marlin 2.0 firmware, and no more hotends-into-bed ever since!

BPD

Sorry for the long delay - In case you haven't already figured this out.
You cannot use the same connector for the Z stop as you use for the inductive sensor. You have to go to the main board for that connector. When looking at the board you you can read the silkscreen designators, in the upper right corner (of my board at least) is a connector labeled Z-stop. My X5SA came with another end stop switch. You mount that switch on the plate where you mounted the Y-stop switch, in the obvious way. Look at how the other end stop switches are wired and wire you cable to match. You only need ground and signal, you don't need power. Connect you cable to that connector on the main board and run a new code script that disables the leveling firmware. For example:
M8083 I0; 			  disable auto-leveling, I now use the Z min limit switch.
M8500;				  Save the changes, you MUST use this line.

Store this code on your micro-SD card as "disableautolevel.gcode".
Run the code by using the Print menu. After the printer beeps and throws up a message window that makes no sense, hit "OK" and power the printer off (make sure it beeps when it shuts off) and then back on. You are then set up to use the Z-stop. Test it by telling the printer to home Z and click the switch with your finger - don't risk a bed collision by assuming you did it all correctly the first time. smiling smiley

Be well,
DLC


Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3Dv6).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.
I just wanted to share my experience, I have changed the firmware with marlin and it works very well !
I have installed a direct drive and kept the proximity sensor with autoleveling. It's wonderfull how it works, no more nozzle in the bed smiling smiley
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panch47
I just wanted to share my experience, I have changed the firmware with marlin and it works very well !
I have installed a direct drive and kept the proximity sensor with autoleveling. It's wonderfull how it works, no more nozzle in the bed smiling smiley

I have looked at the Marlin 2 (32 bit) build process and it looks like they took a giant step backward in usability and upgradability, multiple compilers, special libraries and IDE. It looks very alpha-level development. Did something change recently? Besides that, is there a way to even figure out what the board is to install firmware on it?
So, what process did you use to change the firmware on your Chitu controller? I really don't like the firmware that is on it now, except for the ability to easily change controller parameters by running gcode - of course, now that I think about it, you could use this very same method with Marlin firmware by storing changes in the EEPROM, all from within a gcode file.

...Very interested...

DLC


Kits: Folgertech Kossel 2020 upgraded E3Dv6, Anet A8 upgraded E3Dv6, Tevo Tarantula enhanced parts and dual-head, TronXY X5SA Pro(E3Dv6).
Scratch: Large bed Cartesian, exchangeable heads, Linear slide Delta, Maker-Beam XL Micro Delta, 220x220CoreXY.
The procedure to change from chitu to marlin is quite simple now.
You can see the board version on itself, it is written, mine is a V6. You also have to check if you have TMC.
To change from chitu to marlin I have just followed a youtuber who explain how to do it. You need Visual code studio with plateform IO, you have a file named "configuration.h" that you have to edit according your printer. then you build and it generate a file named "updated.cbd" you just have to put it on the sd card and the printer recognize it if there is any change and load it.
you have to pay attention the first time with the probe offset to avoid a bed contact.
here is the link : [www.youtube.com].
I have not the exactly same printer with the guy on the video and I did not have the PIN issue.
the only thing bad is that after the bed leveling, there is no grid generation with all the points and the height of each point. You can only see the point's height when it is probing. if anyone have a solution to show the grid I would love to know how !
Hope it helps you
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