Hi everyone!

I'm finishing my first build of a 3d printer, a reprap prusa mendel v2. I'm at the hot end part, this guide tells me to get kapton tape to secure some cables:

[docs.google.com]

but I can't find any, nobody seems to know what a kapton tape is here in m country. Could I replace it with this regular black electric tape?:



Also, can I crimp the ferrules with a needle nose plier? can't find any crimper small enough for the ferrules that were given to me.

I crimp things with pliers that's fine.

There are ways of building a hotend without kapton tape, if you are happy to have non insulated wires dangling about. There are other high temperature insulation materials, but kapton tape is easy to use since its just like sellotape that works at very high temperatures. However: DO NOT USE NORMAL ELECTRICAL TAPE ON THE HOTEND OR ON ANY WIRES NEAR THE HOTEND

It will melt and release lots of horrible chlorine based gasses!


The only place I have found to buy kapton tape is ebay, there is plenty on there!

Kapton is a brand name. You might want to look for polyimide tape. you can get it cheap from deal extreme, but postage can take a while.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/16/2012 06:46AM by Greg Frost.

Thanks everyone. Yeah i will order the tape anyways but its frustrating having to wait 2.5 more weeks. I bought aluminum foil tape, its supposedly for high temperatures. Maybe this will work?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2012 05:08PM by Pixbae.

Aluminum has high thermal and electrical conductivity so maybe it's not a good idea at all right? :p ideas anyone?

I just used RTV red silicone, capable of about 360 degrees C. But before I stuck the resistor and thermistor in the head I dabbed them in a little thermal paste for better heat conduction. Then used the silicone on the outside to glue the parts into the head. It also holds the PTFE wire insulation in place.

I have only been printing on cleaned glass so I didn't want to buy kapton tape, this is why I did it that way.

Thank you very much, I've just come to understand that kapton is just to hold the thermistor and resistor in place, I was wondering what else could do the job and couldn't think of anything that wasn't simple and effective. But I searched for that silicon in the local hardware website and it seems they have it so ]I'll see if I buy it tomorrow.

" I've just come to understand that kapton is just to hold the thermistor and resistor in place,"

I think most people also cover the glass with Kapton tape in order to get the print to stick to the glass. I've tried printing on glass without the tape and the part comes off.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2012 07:01AM by TerryKidd.

@TerryKidd - Just curious, Do you use PLA or ABS? I've heard it is possible to print with PLA on bare glass, if the glass is on a heated bed and absolutely clean of oils and dust. I personally have not yet had an opportunity to try it, though.

Bare glass will also work for PLA unheated if you apply gluestick and compress the first layer. It helps to use a thicker nozzle, like 0.6mm and take the first layer slowly. Add a brim if you experience warping or parts popping free.

Calendar impaired?

It is possible to print with ABS on a clean glass bed at about 100 C but it will rapidly loose its ability to hold a print even if cleaned with acetone, alcohol or other solvents. The only thing that works fro me is to clean it with distilled white vinegar. I think the surface is poisoned by something in the ABS and this substance is not soluable in most solvents but is denatured by acetic acid.

Mike

I've only tried printing PLA on untreated glass. I've had much more luck printing ABS using glass coated with hair spray than trying to print on a kapton tape coated bed (more trouble than it was worth and insufficient adhesion). I maintain a thick coating of Aqua Net Extra Super Hold on the glass, reapplying it wherever the previous print occurred, and not cleaning it.