New RepStrap in the family

(From my original post at RepRap Usergroup - Argentina)

Hello people!

I wanted to share with you the news. Last week I finished my RepStrap (wolfstrap kind). The idea and original premise was to build it only with recycled and scrap materials (extracted from printers, etc). But, as I had some trouble with the homemade hot-end, I ended up buying one.

After several months of work, it was completed and functional.

In the following album you can see the step by step construction.
Making of a RepStrap - Flickr


Technical data:

System Type .............. Cartesian with 3/16" threaded rods (22 turns per inch).
                           Mobility made with drawer slides.
Engines .................. 4 x 7.5 ° 13ohm (savaged from HP printers)
Electronics .............. Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.25 (Homemade)
Power Source ............. Vitsuba COL55 - ATX 550W (modified as laboratory source)

Extruder ................. Homemade, based on the "Simple sliced ​​Wade's Geared Extruder (thing: 8072)"
Hot-End .................. J-Head MKV (English Kit)
Heated-Bed ............... Homemade, based on Nichrome wire.

Maximum Working Area ..... 275x275x160
3D Printing Area ......... 200x200x160 (118.112 center)

Actual speed ............. 7.5mm / s (450/60)

Next steps: Iterate and make the needed parts for a Prusa i3.

Hope you like it
Regards!

ePoxi

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/07/2013 10:44PM by epoxi.

Nice one..

How did you make the silk screen on the PCB?

It looks like toner transfer, but when I try to make silkscreen with toner transfeer on doubblesided PCB, it fails epic due to the height from the copper traces creating an uneven surface to iron on.

Great work!

What happened to the hotend you made?

Thanks Ralf!!

About your question on
> How did you make the silk screen on the PCB?

You're right! Its a toner transfer. but I applied the heat from the other side of the PCB.

1) Start the standard process, applying the iron over the glossy sheet.
2) After a few seconds, the sheet will stick to the PCB.
3) At that point, flip the PCB (with the glossy sheet still sticked to it), and apply heat (iron) trough the PCB. Add a piece of cardboard between your table and the glossy-PCB.

Keep ironing it until you could barely see the contour of the toner silk from the other side of the glossy sheet.

Hope it helps

lajos, the problem with that hotend was the continuous jamming.

I used a piece of wood instead of PFTE or PEEK (can't find them in argentina, at a reasonable price).

Maybe using the right materials I could make it work. Its 75% done at this point.
The nozzle size is .7mm. A little big, but I think it's ok for my first homemade nozzle.

Regards!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/07/2013 10:47PM by epoxi.