so, here i am my first printer

hello...

here is my slightly modificated prusa i3, that i bought from reprapuniverse.



i also added longer threaded rods on back Y axis, its preparation for z-y support connection, wich i think will be needed...
then fixed Y axis belt mount, so now belt is always straight motor-belt mount-idler
motors will be powered with tb6560 drivers @24V, ramps with 550W PC supply.
E3D hotend.

about printer-kit that i bought over reprap universe....i waz very dissapointed. very bad print quality, unmatched parts, also not straight printed parts...


but i managed fix everything so wish me luck, today after work im planning to first run


i have actually finished my repstrap by 70%. but then i disassembled my diy cnc mill becouse some problems and didnt finished it


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2013 05:46AM by woo.

Oh dear reprapuniverse.
That looks bad.

What holds the verticle plate square on these i3's. The bolts on the threaded rods?

The bolts on the m10 threaded rod and to be honest i hate the fact of having added support if the frame is properly sittingon a solid base it shouldn't really need extra support in my opinion. Josef Prusa vid of 5 i3s dont have any extra supports the hole point of the design really, hence why theres different variations too the frame its self ie twelves company and makerfarms with the side braces, but just bumps up the cost reallyyes there are better upgrades for belt tensioning which i see you have what size or your z motors i found with mine had 2mm gap and what i did was i got a kitchen worktop and took 2mm slots for the corner of the frame to fit in which motor about 0.5mm of base. check that your couplers ok i found with mine having couplers without much flex makes z wobble if your m5 rods aint straight i have tubing on mine so i see the is wobble in the rods themselve which i expect but nothing else wobbles i tried couplers printed ones and when i moved z the motors wobbled and x carriage wobbled too

but nice looking printer least you have the belt mods not many i3 part sellers do that for the single plate i3 frame

---

Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]

well, you have M10 rods, in my kit all rods are M8. I waz thinking to make larger holes on y corners for M10 rods, but i didnt because i waz scared that everything fall apart, because i dont have experience with printed parts...


about Y-Z

i have made few mods. i bought longer M8 bolts, and straighten one edge of each bolt on lathe, and frame is tightened with bigger washers..
Extra supports are option, yes. i will se how it will work without them. also if i need to do correction in angle between Z and Y axis, only way to do it are adjustable supports.


i had also funny problem with extruder, i assembled extruder, put small toothgear on motor and it cant be paired with bigger gear
if setted normaly, fastening bolt on motor side, tooths are too much out, if tightening bolt on outer side of shaft, then motor shaft is too short and tighht. bolt is in air funny

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/17/2013 08:23AM by woo.

The y threaded rod through the aluminium should be m10 for the alu frame standard i know that as my parts are standard the box frame parts however use m8 the einstein branch use m10 all throughout

---

Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]

[www.youtube.com]

first test
[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

tomorrow i trY first print

Just so you know, I bought some of those TB6560 drivers from eBay a while back (for 12V, though, I think).

They're amazing - very quiet, up to 3A, ...- except they miss steps.

To put it differently, due to an inferior, slower optocoupler on the direction pin, whenever a motor changes spin direction at high speeds, the driver will continue in the same direction a few extra steps before recognizing the change.

This results in bad prints (layers are shifted and distorted), so I eventually homed the X/Y axes every layer until I ordered better drivers.

Hopefully this won't happen and mine were just a fluke. Actually, if those work well, let me know: I might buy some.

WELL.....

no problems here....


i think, not bad for first print
[www.youtube.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/21/2013 10:26AM by woo.

coelestinian Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Just so you know, I bought some of those TB6560
> drivers from eBay a while back (for 12V, though, I
> think).
>
> They're amazing - very quiet, up to 3A, ...-
> except they miss steps.
>
> To put it differently, due to an inferior, slower
> optocoupler on the direction pin, whenever a motor
> changes spin direction at high speeds, the driver
> will continue in the same direction a few extra
> steps before recognizing the change.
>

How long did it take you to track that down?

> This results in bad prints (layers are shifted and
> distorted), so I eventually homed the X/Y axes
> every layer until I ordered better drivers.
>
> Hopefully this won't happen and mine were just a
> fluke. Actually, if those work well, let me know:
> I might buy some.

these drivers need 24V, on 12 V they have missed steps...and they are working excellent.

ebay, they cost 12-13 usd/pcs

bad things , they are big, and there will be a lot of wires....good things, POWER!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/23/2013 01:24AM by woo.

got strange problem, i dont have solution for that yet...


my prints are too low


while x and y axis work perfectly @2 amps each and 8 microsteps(i tried also dry run @2.5A but motors were very hot after couple of hours), my prints are too low in Z axis. for example 30 mm cube is 28 mm high, i run Z motors @ ful step, 3 A for both motors.


any solution? i run repetier combo, for M5 threaded rod is 250 steps per mm. i dont know what is wrong

first clue is missed steps, so i lowered Z speed and acceleration settings, same thing.then i have changed couplers(i have suspected that mootrs shafts are sliding), again same thing

is maybe any other software solution for that mistake?

today il try to run Z axis with microsteps and marlin/pronterface combo...maybe i missed some configuration in repetier...

or another solution, il try lower amperage on tb6560, maybe there is some problem, il try @2 amps or something like that...

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/24/2013 05:54AM by woo.

so, i setted everything up to work, and started to do first print, useful print.

stabilizer for yz, downloaded from thingiverse



and another test cube....

2 things can cause the Z-Axis being out.

your step/mm.. but if you are really confident that it is correct, you may want to enable the 'power holding' for the Z stepper.

Usually, when the Z stepper is not being used, the controller removes the power. Depending on your setup, your printer may sag.

Just keep power to the Z and it will prevent that from happening.

PROBLEM SOLVED,bad couplers

what couplers was you using?

---

Check my rubbish blog for my prusa i3

up and running
[3dimetech.blogspot.co.uk]

like on jo prusa i3 imges, but 5 mm id, now are 4 mm id nd its fine,,,

Great! That's impressive. Who was the TB6560 seller?

Gibbedy Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> How long did it take you to track that down?

It's fairly obvious when homing every layer almost fixes the problem.

cheapest on ebay,they are all from same factory..


new couplers printed



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2013 05:41PM by woo.

some eyecandy

well...machine is printing, and its printing good ...but still having problem with abs...cant get it stick to glass..

heated bed to 110 celsius, hairsprayed, abs juice, but still having problems with warping...this weekend i am planning replace all parts with upgraded ,

y corners for 10 mm threadscrews, stabilizers/adjusters for Z axis
once again adjusting whole machine and finally printing delta printer....then il try to sell this one

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/01/2013 09:01AM by woo.

new eckstruder...

Cool, you are trying the Eckstruder! I'm building two machines at the moment, I will be trying an one of those on at least one of the new machines.

---

Yvan

Singularity Machine

@ woo

which firmware? how did you increase the pulse width?

repetier fw+host, no need to increase pulse width, everything works out of the box

...with 24V powersupply and corect setupped driver..


to yvan: these eckstruder looks very cool, so why not try

i printed it in pla because i didnt managed to print abs without warping...yet...

but thats ok, because E3D hotend is icecold

star wars: Attack of the clones

I smell a delta printer!

i smell only PLA



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2013 03:22PM by woo.

tried printing husquarna trimming line....first print, works perfectly




printed on bed prepaired for pla with wood glue, hotend 220, bed 80 celsius.


it waz actually a joke because i have today trimmed my lawn....and it works


Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2013 03:46PM by woo.