I3 Omega from Diytechshop

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brucehvn
If you are talking about the plastic pieces that the support rods fit into, then yes, you should be able to build most everything else. Your y-axis might be held up though as well since you don't have the proper right angle corner pieces. You may be able to go down to Home Depot and get some threaded rod and cut it to size so you can use the corner pieces you have printed already. HD only sells SAE sizes, but you should be able to find something close. I think 5/16" is very close to the M8 they use. Of course you would need nuts as well. I think it's only the 3 horizontal short rods at the front and back of the y-axis that are the problem.

I did use the i3x/i3xl build instructions where the ones I got for the Alpha/Omega are lacking. They do have build instructions for the A/O on their website. It's not in the downloads link in your account, but at the bottom of their webpages, there's a downloads link and you can get the instructions there, but they are not complete. I keep getting told the complete set is coming soon, but cfy7 was told that weeks before I even ordered and they still have not posted complete instructions.

Bruce

What do you mean by, right angle corner piece? The y-corners? Those appear to be universal i3 parts not custom to Omega/Alpha... Why would I have a problem with those?

Also couldn't I just modify the frame supports for the i3x to be longer (and print them myself) so that they would fit the shorter rods as you say?

Thanks for your help, I think I'm just going to start assembling and just adapt to the problems as they come up.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2014 11:17PM by Istale.

After looking at that manual you mentioned on their website, I see what you're saying now. The picture uses different y-corners. Hmm, well hopefully they send me those files soon or I'm not going to be a happy customers. They shouldn't have even given me the option not to buy the printed parts if they don't have the files up.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/03/2014 11:33PM by Istale.

Well I designed my own Y axis corners for the frame since I can print them tomorrow and not have to wait.

I guess it's all apart of the fun, eh? And I hope these will help someone else too...

Here's the link to them on thingiverse...

[www.thingiverse.com]

You just have to print two of them, obviously.

Next I will be making the Y-Bearing and the Frame Supports. It's going to be a long weekend.

update:

OK, made the extruder with the groovemount for the little brass.

[www.thingiverse.com]

Also a custom y-drive bearing tensioner.

[www.thingiverse.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/04/2014 01:41PM by Istale.

All,

I cut my nichrome wire in half and got the temp on the heated bed up to 75c pretty quickly today. I had to go to work though so I didn't get to punch it any higher. Each run of nichrome wire is about 2.7 ohms, using about 55 watts I believe. If I could do it over I would have bought the heated bed for sure, and still might. I just wanted to give this a try since I had already paid for it.

I'm pretty sure I can get it up to 80, but I'm doubting it'll be able to go up any higher then that. I might have to shorten the in chrome runs a little more.... Or scrunch em up and lose some build volume.

I've been on this forum less recently because it's warming up in New York, the ground is defrosting and I can get back to metal detecting.

Istale,

Give diytechshop a call. They'll get you your refund, sometimes you just have to remind them. I understand your frustration though! I had to call and remind them for a refund, but they took care of it and were friendly about it. Good luck with your kit! You're going tom have fun building it.

Bruce,

You get yours together and up and printing?

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cfy7
Bruce,

You get yours together and up and printing?

I'm getting very close. Had to take a couple days off from it to take care of some other stuff. I had a spare mega board laying around, so I plugged the RAMPS board into that so I could adjust the stepper drivers easily. I had some trouble with the z-axis rods. Apparently there was some gunk in the threads that needed to be taken care of. I was using the RAMPS test code, then I modified it so it would run the z-axis all the way down and up. it kept binding up on the way down. I had to take it apart and run a nut down and up both z rods once to clear all the threads. Then I put it together and lubricated the rods with 3in1 oil and now it's working ok even though one of the z rods appears to be not totally straight. So, to everyone else after me, it might be a good idea to take an M5 nut and do this before you put it together.

So, now I've mounted the RAMPS board where it's supposed to go, cut a piece of mirror tile to use on the heated bed and I'm ready to load the firmware (using your configuration files) and start calibrating the thing. I'm still waiting on new plastic pieces from DIYTS. When I pinged them about it, they said they sent them to another Bruce H that ordered around the same time as me (??!). Now I have a tracking number, but I should be able to proceed even before the pieces get here, though I'm worried about the extruder as it was printed poorly. Hopefully it will feed filament ok.

Bruce

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cfy7
Istale,

Give diytechshop a call. They'll get you your refund, sometimes you just have to remind them. I understand your frustration though! I had to call and remind them for a refund, but they took care of it and were friendly about it. Good luck with your kit! You're going tom have fun building it.

Bruce,

You get yours together and up and printing?

Good work, cfy7. Sounds like you're really making some headway.

I did call them Friday, he said he would process it. He sent me a couple of the files for the Alpha. I have the frame and what not together, just getting all the electronics setup now. Which is the hardest part for me since that's where most of my experience is lacking. Currently setting up the power supply and everything. He said he'd be putting the files up online this weekend... but we all know what that means.

Overall I am very satisfied.

What is the difference between the Alpha and the Omega. Looks like the alpha comes with a heated bed, but is also cheaper. What am I missing?

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CptanPanic
What is the difference between the Alpha and the Omega. Looks like the alpha comes with a heated bed, but is also cheaper. What am I missing?

Build size is the main thing besides the heated bed that you mentioned. If I get this one I am going to get the makerfarm large heatbed to go with it.
Alpha - 222.25mm x 222.25mm x 165.1mm. (8.75"x8.75"x6.5")
Omega - 220mm x 305mm x 180mm. (9"x12"x7")

ciutateivissa,

You'll be pleased to know I just ordered the heated bed you have. I'm topping out at 78 degrees and I just don't feel like it's worth any more of my time messing around with the nichrome wire. The ABS just isn't sticking well enough yet.

I believe another option would have been to order a 24v power supply and powered the heated bed that way, but if I'm spending money I'd rather clean the printer up a little with a good looking bed. ( I could be wrong though I don't have any experience with this)

My power supply says it can do 32 amps, so I'm going to try not ordering a second one for now. Not so much to save the money, I just don't want the clutter of another power supply.

I'm goning to print out the same style mounts you have as well for it.

In my mind it is the right decision, you´ll not regret. With my heatbed I´ve been able to reach temperature up to 140°, that makes it quite easy to print ABS. I´m normally using 120° for ABS, printing on the blank mirror, no special treatment.

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usarmyaircav

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CptanPanic
What is the difference between the Alpha and the Omega. Looks like the alpha comes with a heated bed, but is also cheaper. What am I missing?

Build size is the main thing besides the heated bed that you mentioned. If I get this one I am going to get the makerfarm large heatbed to go with it.
Alpha - 222.25mm x 222.25mm x 165.1mm. (8.75"x8.75"x6.5")
Omega - 220mm x 305mm x 180mm. (9"x12"x7")

Thanks,
I went ahead and ordered a i3a today. Now for the waiting.

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CptanPanic

Thanks,
I went ahead and ordered a i3a today. Now for the waiting.

Nice! Prepare to wait up to a month, that's how long mine took to get to me. So be patient. I just got mine connected to pronterface finally, but I am having some weird issues where the arduino is recognized only the first time. Then if I disconnect in pronterface to try to make adjustment when I plug it back in, it's not recognized?? Unfortunately for me the software side of this stuff is not my strong point.

Can all of you with Omegas/Alphas show me how you mounted your y end stop? No matter what I try, it gets in the way of the bed moving all the way back. I saw Ralf's custom version in another thread with the super long switch arm, but I'm not sure what it's triggering on. Looks like it wouldn't be the plastic bed mounts.

Bruce

Quote
brucehvn
Can all of you with Omegas/Alphas show me how you mounted your y end stop? No matter what I try, it gets in the way of the bed moving all the way back. I saw Ralf's custom version in another thread with the super long switch arm, but I'm not sure what it's triggering on. Looks like it wouldn't be the plastic bed mounts.

Bruce

Mine is limited where its mounted. The best spot I could find was mounting it to the bottom bed plate on the belt holder.... I think. I didn't have a screw long enough at the time so I didn't.

There are some custom printable mounts on thingiverse though that looked pretty good.

Quote
brucehvn
Can all of you with Omegas/Alphas show me how you mounted your y end stop? No matter what I try, it gets in the way of the bed moving all the way back. I saw Ralf's custom version in another thread with the super long switch arm, but I'm not sure what it's triggering on. Looks like it wouldn't be the plastic bed mounts.

Bruce

I've built the i3x from DIY Tech. My recommendation is to finish your build with the Y Endstop mounted as best as possible, get your printer working, then either design or find a better endstop holder and print one out. It's irritating, but probably the best way to go.

- Poly

Quote
brucehvn
Can all of you with Omegas/Alphas show me how you mounted your y end stop? No matter what I try, it gets in the way of the bed moving all the way back. I saw Ralf's custom version in another thread with the super long switch arm, but I'm not sure what it's triggering on. Looks like it wouldn't be the plastic bed mounts.

Bruce

Bruce,

here are another set of pictures from my y endstop. Ive just made a litte block of any material and used 2 liitle screws to fix it on the lower part of the heat bed. I´ve attached my enstop platte used for y and z axis as well.

Hope that helps,

Ralf

Woo! First print done!

I accidentally let it go with a 50% infill. I didn't really think about how much that would be effected with such few layers. So I think it would have turned out even better with a higher infill.





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/13/2014 08:43PM by Istale.

Istale, I see that we are of kindred spirits

I am glad to see other people who have bought from DIYTechShop getting their printers up and running I have the i3x, and have been having a decent time learning its quirks. I have had nothing but good prints as long as my first layer sticks, and I think that is due to the way that DIYTechShop does the bed assembly. Just something to keep an eye on. For example my bed is rather easy to loose its level. Perhaps this is fixed in the Alpha or Omega builds?

Also, I agree with Polymathiae. The endstop holders that came with my kit sucked major and I quickly replaced them with these.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2014 10:19AM by lukan.

DIYTS has some new endstop holders. They sent me a set with some other replacement parts I needed. Here's a photo of them. I don't think they can snap on to the smooth rods though without breaking. So far, I've been able to slide them onto the end of one of the smooth rods and then move it into the proper position.

Bruce

Ahh!! That is epic, lukan.

On top of that, I believe you are the one who solved my motor wiring problem in IRC.

Glad to see there are at least two sensible people here! hahah I like your style.


Yeah, I really jurry rigged my z-axis endstop. I used the i3x endstop which does NOT fit their honewell mechanical stops. I made it work though.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/15/2014 09:04PM by Istale.

I just saw that on the DIYTS site, the i3x and i3XL can now be purchased without the hotend, I checked the Omega, and it still shows only a choice of extrusion size.

usarmyaircav: I think they have finally realized that the Little Brass is more trouble than it is worth, and that a lot of people simply buy another hotend regardless. I have an E3D and a J-Head MK V-BV that I use, never once touching the Little Brass other than taking some thermals on it.

Istale:Who me... Be helpful...? Curses. I need to work on my angst more!

ciutateivissa: Have you gotten by with the supplied endstops to print your own? How is all of that going?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/17/2014 11:47AM by lukan.

Woo Hoo! Printed my first calibration object on Sat night and printed a bunch more (going through the calibration page on the wiki) yesterday. Things seem to be pretty good. Had a little trouble with the perimeter width test, but I think I have that figured out. Hope to be printing my first real parts later tonight, probably a new extruder body, big extruder gear, and the mount for the e3d. So far the little brass hotend is not giving me any trouble.

Got notice that my i3a shipped yesterday after 9 work days which is cool. Supposed to be here on Friday, can't wait.

CptanPanic: Just remember that your plastics may *not* be with the shipment.

brucehvn: Glad to hear you are up and running... A very good feeling isn't it!

I got my i3a, and have it assembled. Came with everything except endstops switches and endstop holders, and motor controller heatsinks, and sent them an email. I am working on the software setup now.

I bought an i3 Omega from the DIY TechShop and got it up and running just a short time ago. I made the Y and Z axis end stop holders for it out of wood during the build process. Of course, I wasn't in a position to print anything at that point. Both of the Y and Z end stop holders are clam shell design. I added a fan next to the Y axis motor. The X axis end stop can be directly attached to the X axis motor support with screws. Pictures attached. I added a screw adjustment to my Z axis end stop older just a few days ago. I inserted one end of a screw rod after I'd cut the top off of it. Then I put a nut on the end of it with a spacer at the bottom. If you run the nut downwards it pushes end stop holder upwards with some precision. If you want to move the Z end stop downwards, you have to turn the nut as far as needed and then push the wood end stop holder down with your fingers. Not ideal, but it is better than having to loosen it, wriggle it with your fingers, and then tighten, repeatedly... The post is not near the date of the request, but hope it helps.

@drgrs Why did you add a fan to Y axis motor?