35mm film driven repstrap

I finally got my head around OpenSCAD, and am loving it so far, but i need a bit of help.

I'm making the film gear and it looks fine:



but when i press F6 the teeth disappear and i get this:



here it is:

difference() {
union() {
cylinder(h = 35, r1 = 10, r2 = 10, center = true);
translate([0,0,14]) cylinder(h = 7, r1 = 12, r2 = 12, center = true); //top bit
translate([0,0,-10]) cylinder(h = 5, r1 = 12, r2 = 10, center = true); //slanting bit
translate([0,0,-15]) cylinder(h = 5, r1 = 12, r2 = 12, center = true, $fn=100); //base
for (i = [0:11]){ //TEETH
rotate([0,0,i*360/11])translate([0,12,13.5])rotate (-50,0,0)polygon( [ [0,0],[0,0],[1.4,1.4],[0,1.5] ] , [ [0,1,2,3]]);}
for (i = [0:11]){
rotate([0,0,i*360/11])translate([0,12,-15])rotate (-50,0,0)polygon( [ [0,0],[0,0],[1.4,1.4],[0,1.5] ] , [ [0,1,2,3,4] ]);
}
}
cylinder(h = 35.2, r1 = 2.5, r2 = 2.5, center = true, $fn=100);
rotate([0,90,0])translate([-8.5,0,0])cylinder(h = 30, r1 = 1.35, r2 = 1.35, center = true, $fn=100);
translate([-7,-2.7,3.5])cube([2.4,5.40,17.0]);
translate([5,-2.7,3.5])cube([2.4,5.40,117]);
}

I probably would have used a cube instead of a polygon but your main problem is that a polygon is a 2d object not a 3d object so you must use Linear Extrude (linear_extrude) to make it 3d.

difference() {
  union() {
    cylinder(h = 35, r1 = 10, r2 = 10, center = true);
    
    translate([0,0,14]) cylinder(h = 7, r1 = 12, r2 = 12, center = true); // top bit
    translate([0,0,-10]) cylinder(h = 5, r1 = 12, r2 = 10, center = true); // slanting bit
    translate([0,0,-15]) cylinder(h = 5, r1 = 12, r2 = 12, center = true, $fn=100); // base
    
     //  TEETH

    for (i = [0:11]) {
      rotate([0,0,i*360/11])
        for (j = [13.5,-15]) {
          translate([0,12,j])
            rotate (-50,0,0)
              linear_extrude(height = 1.0,center =  true, convexity = 10, twist = 0)
                polygon( [ [0,0],[1.4,1.4],[0,1.5] ] , [ [0,1,2]]);
        }
    }
  }
  
  cylinder(h = 35.2, r1 = 2.5, r2 = 2.5, center = true, $fn=100);
  rotate([0,90,0])translate([-8.5,0,0])cylinder(h = 30, r1 = 1.35, r2 = 1.35, center = true, $fn=100);
  translate([-7,-2.7,3.5])cube([2.4,5.40,17.0]);
  translate([5,-2.7,3.5])cube([2.4,5.40,117]);
}

---

Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

ah ofcourse. awesome, thanks heaps. I'm going to get it printed at a fablab near my house, unfortunately i took my reprap apart as i was spending way too much time on it and am very overdue with other deadlines,

but if someone else wants to give it a print please let me know how it goes!

dubious Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I don't have my mendel kit yet, so I don't know
> about lengths and stuff. I just assume that the
> 1.6 meters long stills films would be enough, and
> there's no need for cine films specifically.
> Also I know Australia is a stupidly huge place,
> but apparently there's some old Aussie who
> designed and built a machine that produces 35mm
> film. If you find the guy, he may be of some help.
> And if you find him, please send him my regards
> and a sincere offer to buy a copy of the machine.

Yes you are probably right about still film, even if you want a long continuous belt you can buy splicers kinda cheap or probably walk into a cinema and say can you please splice this (give them a break from their monotony)

you mean some guy that made a DIY or do at home machine that prints onto the film? or actually fabricates the raw plastic into the shape of film? australia is a stupidly huge place but there is only one person per square kilometer so i might find him, old you say? and you want to buy one, done.

i have a thingiverse account, i uploaded the film part and also a new idea of a part i want to get laser cut,

my thingiverse is here: [www.thingiverse.com]

new part is a Wades geared body to Adrians hot end adaptor plate:
[www.thingiverse.com]



Description

i want to make this part by lasercutting 5mm acrlic, it also has four holes for adding a pcb board style screw terminal. my plan is to solder four wires from extruder board to it, then screw my thermistor/resistor in to that.

connects to the underneath of the PEEK block of adrians hot end, then to 2 bolts that are attaching wades geared to the printer body. will need to extend those two bolts.

-UNTESTED-
Instructions

depending on the thickness of your heater block, you might want to wait until after you have screwed your heater block on then put this on and bolt it up, then wire up the heater block.

if you put it on before screwing on the heater block, the rectangular shape of it it might butt into the converter plate as it screws up, the acrylic is pretty thick but the gap is big enough for a large heater block to sit in if it's positioned right. If it's already screwed on you can adjust the heater block so it won't be touching the acrylic, then slide the plate over and bolt it up.

You posted your original SCAD file instead of my improved (working) one.
Was that intentional?

---

Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

Doh!! fixed, thanks.

ATTENTION the film gear at the top of this page does not work!!!

I put 11 teeth instead of 16??

this SHOULD work:

[www.thingiverse.com]



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2011 08:15AM by mlagana.

also i updated my wades to adrians part, will start testing soon. The original part was a bit off, but still good enough to work:

[www.thingiverse.com]






Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2011 08:15AM by mlagana.

I was wondering if someone who knows could tell me if i could get away with using this thin wire in the photo above i scavenged from a 2d printer for the resistor of the heaterblock? It's 1mm thick and the wire is 5 strands of .15 wire.

mlagana Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> you mean some guy that made a DIY or do at home
> machine that prints onto the film? or actually
> fabricates the raw plastic into the shape of film?
> australia is a stupidly huge place but there is
> only one person per square kilometer so i might
> find him, old you say? and you want to buy one,
> done.


[www.flickr.com]
It's not clear enough whether he uses premade strips of film or makes them himself, but the notes on the machine don't include any slicing and perforating parts.
I hardly believe you could find him, but do admit this is badass.

ohh wow. Badass is an understatement!

Ok my acrlyic converter plate has done the job for a couple of small parts so far:




but in much more exciting news i finally designed a film gear that actually works!!



I plan to sell these in aluminium and also a cheaper plastic version.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/16/2011 05:38AM by mlagana.

EXTREMELY URGENT

can anyone tell me if the techzone gen3 remix steppers are HALF stepping??

no mention in documentation or website at all means i assume it's full steps .... which if is not the case could have possibly screwed me a bit in non reprap related matters... stop motion animation ... we are doing shots that take 9 hours to achieve 4 seconds of animation, and we have animation software -> arduino - > techzone gen3 ->nema17(200steps) pushing a camera along a dolly 5 steps after every frame the camera takes



Link to some test footage: (best to step through frames in quicktime using arrow keys)

[marklagana.com]

now we have tried to do a close up pan and it looks like every FOUR frames it moves like 7 steps for some reason?

I tried 4.2 steps every frame, and it worked for 3 and every fourth frame it just didn't move at all. So now we are using whole numbers only and that made every forth frame work, but the dolly has done 4 huge shots already just went to do a close up and we can see every forth frame is moving a bit more?! Please look and offer me any advice... i can get the director to email me the arduino script but i don't really think that's the problem... it's pretty simple like "inbyte read yadayada if shoot command stepper step 5 / if delete command step -5 you know that's the whole loop why would it change every forth frame?

Could it be i had it set to 200 steps but the techzone driver is half stepping??

i'm not animating tomorrow but they are with my dolly, i've told the director in the morning to try setting it to 400 steps... will see how that goes... but this is a huge production.. we have volunteers from all over the world..i figure you printer people would be best in the world to ask about this any clues??

apart from that mechanically it's 8 skate bearings positioned 45deg against rails, heavy camera holding it down on the rails, using film as belt but it's tight enough so when the motor is enabled i can't move the camera at all, the gear was recently printed on a commercial printer and cast in resin (very good casting) and feels like a good fit the film doesn't seem to at all slip either way or anything in between the teeth and the idler pully is resting on a compression spring pushing the film away from the motor gear.. pretty much like most 2d printers.

HELP!

ps more info on the short film if you're interested [www.facebook.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/10/2011 02:55PM by mlagana.

TechZone is the Gen3 electronics and YES it is set up to half step.

---

Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

ok sweet thankyou! So all this time i shoudl have had it set to 400 steps... whilst i was having troubles every 4th frame...
there are two 4's in that sentence and that is the extent of my deduction powers i can't think at the moment because of lack of sleep...

my apologies to people who have bought wades extruders and nozzles off me i have been really slack but i have just been animating on this freelance thing full time i have time off from being a projectionist and i am actually sleeping there...

i haven't even posted this but have sold two i have full extruder kits, motor+wades geared plastic parts+hardware+adrians new nozzle with PEEK, brass around the ptfe, heater block with resistor(ptfe sleeved) and thermistor(kapton at the moment expecting some tiny PTFE sleeves today) runs really well $175 postage included in australia $190 aus dollars overseas 7 left. also a acrylic converter plate for the peek block to wades body.

boom hello skeinforge!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/10/2011 03:52PM by mlagana.

happy star wars day everyone

oh if anyone was following my above mental breakdown about the SCREWY MOTION CONTROL PROBLEM I didn't ever solve it and i had no idea what the problem was so i ended up hacking into a scanners motor using an arduino mini and pololu, so much nicer i'm totally sold on the pololus X16 microstepping = no vibration and basically no sound which was a problem at first because it was moving such small increments we couldn't tell unless staring right at the gearbox.