Print Bed leveling: cold or printing temperatures? [SOLVED]

Good evening,

I followed the guide and leveled the Print bed with my printer off.
Every things worked fine until I tried to print:
As the hot end and the print bed heated, they dilates and closed the space left between the glass and the nozzle.

So, does the leveling need to be done at printing temperature or must I use another reference for leveling (I use a piece of A4 paper as suggested by the guide)?

Thanks

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/05/2014 11:03AM by Ray.

I always level with the hot end heated as there's often filament left on the nozzle from the last print. Heating it ensures the filament doesn't give a false reading on height between nozzle and bed.

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[3DKarma.com] - suppliers of quality, affordable 3D printer kits and filament for the UK market.

Get yourself a filler gauge, always level your built plate at working temperature and use the 0.10~0.102 gauge to calibrate.

Well, I do (did) it quite different.
* Remove the filament
* Level the bed cold - made no difference if it was heated.
* Heat up the bed (at 90C that's enough for me)
* Heat up the hot end to working temp
* Clean nozzle tip with kitchen wipe then adjust the nozzle gap to 0.1mm or just below
* Re-install filament

Finish

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Waitaki 3D Printer

Ive found a big difference in the gap between hot and cold so always do it hot with a metal feeler guage of 0.08mm.
Metal feeler guages are much easier to us than scraps of paper.

The art is to be consistent. Once youve got the feel of the feeler and it seems to be at the right height.
Do it the same way every time.

Gordon

Thank you very much for yours answers!
I'll level the bed with hotend and bed heated up then.
The feeler gauge is also a very good idea! I going to buy one right now!!!