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Extruder cooling

Posted by Fizpok 
Extruder cooling
April 16, 2015 12:33PM
Hi,
I am going to use one of those:
[ru.aliexpress.com]

I am going to use fan directed to the plastic part to prevent the heat to spread up from the hot end. I did it with the full-metal extruder, but...
Could someone tell me, does it have any sense with the plastic body? I mean, it is not supposed to transfer heat, so will I be able to cool it?

To repeat: I am not talking about cooling the printed area, I need to prevent heat from spreading up, as otherwise the filament stucks.

Thank you.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 16, 2015 01:11PM
I think a fan does help to keep the cold end cold even though it is plastic. Try to get a good fan with decent CFM rating.

You might want to read this article comparing J-head hot ends (thanks Steve for linking this in your Instructable).

[jheadnozzle.blogspot.ca]

It describes the potential problems with using J-head clones. Based on the fact that it has only 4 cooling fins, it looks like the one you are considering buying is a clone.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 16, 2015 01:19PM
If you are going to get a J head clone, get the one with PTFE liner inside the PEEK body. I use the ones from geeetech without any problems, and yes put a fan to cool down the PEEK it will improve your prints and prolong hotend life.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 16, 2015 04:09PM
I used a cheap j-head clone like this before i got my hexagon. I got the hexagon for higher temp materials.
It printed pla and abs perfectly well but i did need to have a fan pointed at the black body for best results especially on long prints.

And remember to remove ghe kapton tape from the body.
The tape should only be on the heater block.

Gordon
Re: Extruder cooling
April 16, 2015 07:31PM
I second removing that extra tape and make sure the fan is directed close to the little gap between the heater block and the peek. That little gap is where most of them clog up the plastic melts up too high and jams it up aka heat creep.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 04:14AM
Thanks everyone.
What is the highest temperature safe for the extruder?
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 07:25AM
From what i understood about 240c with j-heads due to materials used.
Its not just the hot end but also the thermister upper temp limit.
The extruder itself can be ABS as its above the heat break.
I use the aluminium mounting plate as i think it gives it abit more of a heat sink.

Gordon
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 07:48AM
What about the upper temp. limit for full metal one with PTFE inside?
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 07:49AM
The reason I ask, it prints better at 250 degrees, but I am kind of afraid smiling smiley
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 08:22AM
250c is very high for abs and too high for pla.

I went for the all metal hexagon ready for higher temp materials but havnt looked at thermocouples yet to replace the thermistor.
The higest i go with abs is 235c so within j-head ranges.
The nylon ive started using prints at 240c but i need to experiment a bit more and head up to 250c.
Taulman bridge nylon which is one of the easier nylons to print.
The hexagon can handle that without problem but i need to look closer at the thermistor and maybe take ghe plunge on a thermocouple.

Gordon
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 09:51AM
Well, the question is not about ABS, but will full metal extruder be damaged by 250 degrees?
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 10:44AM
An all metal can exceed 300 degrees, with PTFE liner 250~260 tops and a PEEK j head 240 max.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 11:44AM
J-heads are fine at 250C. I run mine at that temperature all day long, day in day out. That is assuming your temperature measurement is spot on and your PID doesn't have massive overshoot.


[www.hydraraptor.blogspot.com]
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 11:48AM
Thanks.
One more question. For this one (they have English description somewhere, which is not a description, frankly):
[ru.aliexpress.com]
I need to select a termistor in Sprinter's termistor table. How can I figure out what they use?
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 12:54PM
Seems like that one you link to is a bowden version. Make sure that you order the correct one.

You could try taking the thermistor out and find any markings on it to know what thermistor setting you'll need. You could also try contacting the seller.

As for thermistor, I'd use a multimeter with thermocouple to check what the temperature gradient is every 10 degrees C. Either create a new profile for the firmware or use a table that is close to what you measured.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 02:23PM
I don't understend the "Bowden" part. What is wrong with it? Is it just that I have no table entry, or something else?
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 02:39PM
There are two ways to connect your extruder to the hotend, direct connection or bowden tube. With a bowden tube, your extruder is generally mounted to the frame of the printer, and a 12-18" segment of PTFE tube is connected between the extruder and the hotend, typically with push-fit compression fittings. Imqqmi is suggesting you linked a bowden hotend but are actually referring to a direct connect hotend. Though I just skimmed most of the posts.

However, why not look at the new E3D v6Lite instead of a J-head clone? I think it is only $10 dollars more and should already come with a hotend fan and cowl, with the same printing range as the cloned J-head. Plus, down the road, it should be possible to upgrade the hotend to a full v6, capable of 300 degree temperatures. Just a thought.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 02:47PM
Err... One more question. I have 1.75mm Wade's Accessible.
43/10 in terms of gears.
Now, according to
[reprap.org]
steps should be
// Gregstruder with a 43:10 gear ratio
(200 * 16) * (43 / 10) / (7 * 3.14159) = 625.70681
(Gregstruder? But gears are right.)
I have all 3 jumpers set for the extruder's shield.
However, according to calibration (extrude 100 mm), I got 930 - HOW?!
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 02:48PM
I'd agree, but I already have that one...
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 02:56PM
I wouldn't worry to much about what numbers you should be using on the extruder, as long as your calibration tests are coming out good.

And didn't realize you already had the hotend.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 03:04PM
Well, I have two clones, plastic and metal. Metal is easier to cool down, but I want to be able to use both.
Re: Extruder cooling
April 17, 2015 08:33PM
Cancel that smiling smiley

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/17/2015 08:54PM by Fizpok.
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