HICTOP Prusa i3 extrusion motor

Hey everyone. First post here and first timer to 3D printing of any sort. I purchased this kit from amazon and built it over the course of a day. I didn't realize the actual head scratching starts once you get to the software.

I noticed that my extruder motor doesn't respond. The company emailed me some firmware to solve the problem but unfortunately the motor remains motionless. I can sent prints over USB and the printer goes through all the motions except actually extruding material.

At this point should I request a replacement motor and/or board? I haven't tried using firmware from a 3rd party like another owner or a similar kit from another brand. Not sure if relevant but the kit came with a 2 prong power cable and I used a pc power cable instead in order to have 3 prongs.

Thanks in advance for any insight. I look forward to getting this dialed in with some upgrades to make my friend with a makergear M2 jealous of my prints

Hey I literally bought this printer last week or the week before and had the same exact issue, I went through the motions of hooking the data wire to the x axis connection on the board and manually ran the "x axis" which confirmed the motor was working. Have you done that as well to ensure the motor is fine? If it is working, hook it back up to E0 and then chances are you're running into the same issue I had... firmware, I'm not at home so I don't have my configuration.h file for you but I went around searching and found a marlin firmware posted in github (I don't remember the location sadly) and changed the configuration.h things like baud_rate to 250000 instead of 115200 that it was set to. the steps per mm you'll want to be something like 80,80,2560,105 (I think thats what I remember setting, I believe it was actually 78.402 for X and Y axis steps per mm in all seriousness but the 2560 and 105 I'm pretty confident of). Motherboard model I did 33.

Those were the primary settings I had to change to make it work. There are other things I recommend you look into, such as the lcd screen which I know the one I needed was the discount LCD (I don't remember full name again) model, but definitely try doing those settings to see if you can get it to work. I've had great prints with this except until I got a clogged heat break or whatever its called.

If I remember when I get home I'll try to post my configuration.h for you if you don't report back saying you get it. I'm 99% sure it'll be firmware though as long as your motor works when you plug it into another axis spot on the board (put it in the x axis or y axis are my recommendations).

Quote
Humantelope
Hey I literally bought this printer last week or the week before and had the same exact issue, I went through the motions of hooking the data wire to the x axis connection on the board and manually ran the "x axis" which confirmed the motor was working. Have you done that as well to ensure the motor is fine? If it is working, hook it back up to E0 and then chances are you're running into the same issue I had... firmware, I'm not at home so I don't have my configuration.h file for you but I went around searching and found a marlin firmware posted in github (I don't remember the location sadly) and changed the configuration.h things like baud_rate to 250000 instead of 115200 that it was set to. the steps per mm you'll want to be something like 80,80,2560,105 (I think thats what I remember setting, I believe it was actually 78.402 for X and Y axis steps per mm in all seriousness but the 2560 and 105 I'm pretty confident of). Motherboard model I did 33.

Those were the primary settings I had to change to make it work. There are other things I recommend you look into, such as the lcd screen which I know the one I needed was the discount LCD (I don't remember full name again) model, but definitely try doing those settings to see if you can get it to work. I've had great prints with this except until I got a clogged heat break or whatever its called.

If I remember when I get home I'll try to post my configuration.h for you if you don't report back saying you get it. I'm 99% sure it'll be firmware though as long as your motor works when you plug it into another axis spot on the board (put it in the x axis or y axis are my recommendations).

You know what. You're awesome for replying and I'm a moron. Before the company sent me the firmware my extruder was plugged into E0 and I assumed that may be the problem. With the new firmware I had it in E1 and didn't think to switch it back. I'm curious about the baud rate though. The instructions powerpoint they sent me to flash the firmware said to switch it down to 115200

It'll work at 115200 you just need to make sure the software on your computer is set to use 115200 instead of anything else, and because I'm weird I wanted to make it seem more awesomer so I set it to 250000 From the sounds of it then it may work on e0 now that you switched it back ?

Quote
Humantelope
It'll work at 115200 you just need to make sure the software on your computer is set to use 115200 instead of anything else, and because I'm weird I wanted to make it seem more awesomer so I set it to 250000 From the sounds of it then it may work on e0 now that you switched it back ?

Yes! Just printed my very first print. The robot that comes with Cura. Shocked that its not a maimed corpse of a print. Things can only get better from here

Just got this printer myself and I'm hoping someone can provide me with a little insight. I was able to upgrade the firmware but I'm having trouble with the LCD setting. As of now it won't show and characters when turned on. Any help would be amazing!

Kyuuul what LCD do you have selected in the firmware? It should be the REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER. Heres the section of my config.h file regarding the LCDs... primarily making sure to uncomment the define reprap discount smart controller line and then the corresponding ifdef's down lower. If yours is already like this I'd look to make sure the wires leading to the display aren't backwards as there are two of them. After you make sure the wires are in the right spots the only other thing I could think to suggest would be to contact hic tech, there were a few people in the reviews commenting that their LCDs had issues and were replaced pretty painlessly from what I gathered.

Hope this helps.

// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller (white PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The GADGETS3D G3D LCD/SD Controller (blue PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
//#define G3D_PANEL

// The RepRapDiscount FULL GRAPHIC Smart Controller (quadratic white PCcool smiley
// [reprap.org]
//
// ==> REMEMBER TO INSTALL U8glib to your ARDUINO library folder: [code.google.com]
//#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER

// The RepRapWorld REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD v1.1
// [reprapworld.com]
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD
//#define REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD_MOVE_STEP 10.0 // how much should be moved when a key is pressed, eg 10.0 means 10mm per click

//automatic expansion
#if defined (REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER)
 #define DOGLCD
 #define U8GLIB_ST7920
 #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#endif

#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER) || defined(G3D_PANEL)
 #define ULTIPANEL
 #define NEWPANEL
#endif

#if defined(REPRAPWORLD_KEYPAD)
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL
#endif

//I2C PANELS

//#define LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
#ifdef LCD_I2C_SAINSMART_YWROBOT
  // This uses the LiquidCrystal_I2C library ( [bitbucket.org] )
  // Make sure it is placed in the Arduino libraries directory.
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_PCF8575
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x27   // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

// PANELOLU2 LCD with status LEDs, separate encoder and click inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
#ifdef LCD_I2C_PANELOLU2
  // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
  // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
  // (v1.2.3 no longer requires you to define PANELOLU in the LiquidTWI2.h library header file)
  // Note: The PANELOLU2 encoder click input can either be directly connected to a pin 
  //       (if BTN_ENC defined to != -1) or read through I2C (when BTN_ENC == -1). 
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

// Panucatt VIKI LCD with status LEDs, integrated click & L/R/U/P buttons, separate encoder inputs
//#define LCD_I2C_VIKI
#ifdef LCD_I2C_VIKI
  // This uses the LiquidTWI2 library v1.2.3 or later ( [github.com] )
  // Make sure the LiquidTWI2 directory is placed in the Arduino or Sketchbook libraries subdirectory.
  // Note: The pause/stop/resume LCD button pin should be connected to the Arduino
  //       BTN_ENC pin (or set BTN_ENC to -1 if not used)
  #define LCD_I2C_TYPE_MCP23017 
  #define LCD_I2C_ADDRESS 0x20 // I2C Address of the port expander
  #define LCD_USE_I2C_BUZZER //comment out to disable buzzer on LCD (requires LiquidTWI2 v1.2.3 or later)
  #define NEWPANEL
  #define ULTIPANEL 
#endif

#ifdef ULTIPANEL
//  #define NEWPANEL  //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
  #define SDSUPPORT
  #define ULTRA_LCD
  #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the DOG graphic display
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
  #else
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 4
  #endif
#else //no panel but just lcd
  #ifdef ULTRA_LCD
  #ifdef DOGLCD // Change number of lines to match the 128x64 graphics display
    #define LCD_WIDTH 20
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 5
  #else
    #define LCD_WIDTH 16
    #define LCD_HEIGHT 2
  #endif
  #endif
#endif

It's probably that the two LCD ribbon cables are reversed. The diagram in the instructions PDF is misleading. I swapped mine and the display came to life!

Good luck.

I can't get ahold of hictop people.so if possible can u email me the firmware file for the 3d printer

I have my HICTOP metal frame printer up and running. Getting some good quality prints.

To Contact HICTOP: REMEMBER THAT HICTOP IS IN CHINA! I have had excellent results using SKYPE phone after 9PM EDST( approx. 2 cents a minute charge). There is a 12 hr time difference between China and me. The online discussion with Caroline area is almost worthless.

Repair parts from China take >1wk for delivery. 10 days to 2wk is normal. I was sent some wrong hardware, a bad Power Supply. I bought some hardware locally and used a battery for testing until PS arrived.

Since then I have had a linear bearing go bad, HicTop is replacing it, but I had a project cruch so I bought a dozen on Amazon for $22, and I have prime 2 day delivery. I also heard that the included PS is under powered for printing ABS so I also got a 25 AMP PS from Amazon.

one thing I recommend with the HICTOP printers is ignore the instructions for wiring and read the curcuit boards -- they have labels that match what you're wiring to them. the images on the CD are confusing and often just flat out wrong. the one included for wiring the power supply told me to wire V+ and COM to ports that correspond to V+ and V+!!! and the one for the LCD had me swapping the two cables, which would have resulted in gibberish on the screen. no wonder lots of the reviews are people saying it was DOA.

also the bearings are junk, but what do you expect from China? I got some from Amazon. the rods are 5/16" aka ~8mm and the "Sprite Science 12 LM8UU Linear Bearings" listing on there should fit and come with enough to replace every bearing included in the kit. also remember to lube them -- a good 2-in-1 oil is best.

my only other complaint is they must have printed the included 3D printed parts on a hastily-assembled HICTOP i3 since they are WAY off and too thick, warped, or with holes too small. I had to sand mine down to get a precise fit.

all in all, great deal for under $400. couldn't buy the parts alone for that much! and it IS a DIY kit... you wouldn't get this sort of build quality in a retail kit but you'd also be paying twice as much.

I have the same printer and an old MakerBot kit. The MakerBot one was so easy to assemble and use! I am having a hard time trying to print with this hictop prusa. Any comments on the acceleration you are using? I am getting pieces as a ladder in the y direction :/ also the bed takes so long to heat. I replaced the wire with a very thick one but it still takes 20 mins to reach 100C and the wire itself gets warm.

when you say ladder do you mean each layer is offset in the Y direction, forming "stairs" on your printed object?

mine is doing that and it's driving me insane. seems to randomly screw up the Y axis around 30% on every print... it randomly will JUMP and I can't see why. I figured maybe the extruder was bumping into the print when it was trying to move...

I tried:

- adding a Z-lift of 2mm
- cleaning the rods
- tightening the belts
- re-aligning everything

seems to just randomly "jump" sometimes. my next try is going to be putting a fan on the left side to cool the main board -- maybe it's overheating and sending bunk data to the Z-axis motor? maybe the firmware has a bug?

as for warming, mine is fine in that department.

Quote
saturn
when you say ladder do you mean each layer is offset in the Y direction, forming "stairs" on your printed object?

mine is doing that and it's driving me insane. seems to randomly screw up the Y axis around 30% on every print... it randomly will JUMP and I can't see why. I figured maybe the extruder was bumping into the print when it was trying to move...

I tried:

- adding a Z-lift of 2mm
- cleaning the rods
- tightening the belts
- re-aligning everything

seems to just randomly "jump" sometimes. my next try is going to be putting a fan on the left side to cool the main board -- maybe it's overheating and sending bunk data to the Z-axis motor? maybe the firmware has a bug?

as for warming, mine is fine in that department.

Yes, stairs. This is my first print, will try to use a lower acceleration and so. I replaced the firmware with latest marlin. How long does your printer bed take to reach 110C?

it doesn't take long to heat up, but I'm never timing it.

one thing you could try is a stronger power supply. some people use one intended for a computer with more wattage since running the motors and the heated bed is a bit much for that little one that comes with the kit.

There is a Little clock in the LCD you don't have to time it. Maybe can you provide a ballpark value just to be sure mine isn't faulty? Like: 50C at 7 mins

Guys,

Glad to have found this forum for HICTOP printer. I am having some trouble with the Y-endstop. My y-endstop is not meeting anything, as in, I believe it should come in contact with the y-stepper but mine is not meeting. I am kind of stuck as I can't adjust the stepper mount or bearing mount as it may misalign with the belt clamps on the carriage. (pictures attached).
Please advise

Also, I still haven't connected it to the power supply, Do I need to take any precautionary measures ?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2015 04:55PM by warankarp.

I think it was installed reversed. Put it in the other side of the plastic piece

Ereid, I dont think I can put it on the other side, if you look closely, the m3 bolts from the carriage in coming down on the other side. However, I tried to flip the whole mount and check, but it is still failing to make any contact. Attached is an image. I have also attached a picture of the entire set up.

Can you post a picture maybe.

Here is a picture:
[1drv.ms]

Looking the printer from the frontal part, it goes to the left of the bed and it touches the motor. Maybe the pulley thing that goes into the motor is too far away?

From the picture, IMG_1293.jpg (59.2 K looking from the front of the printer, I see that you have the double y axis carriage bearing on the right side. My instruction show that is is on the left. See step 16 in instructions. That should get your y-axis limit switch to align. Mine does under that alignment. Hope this helps.

Quote
bob414

Quote
eried

Thanks for pointing that out, I flipped the pulley around and got the whole thing aligned now. The end-stops seem to work. am calibrating the printer now.

Any pointers on how to reduce the noise coming from z-stepper screws ? its wobbling and rubbing against the acrylic piece.

Glad I could help.

My Z Axis stepper motors do not make a abnormal amount of noise, that normally indicates a bearing problem.. I was getting a rattle from the Z axis screws, that settled down when I modified the bottom of the Z axis rods to stop them from wobbling, That mod is included on this website under HICTOP mod and upgrades.

My most recent problem, was SD card recognized, but not readable. After checking the wiring 3 times. I found that I did not have the connectors fully seated on the Display board. I was very surprised on how much pressure I had to use to fully seat them. This could also be reasons that some users are having problems with the Display. PS I repair and assemble computers all the time.

I have only printed PLA. more that 1.5Kg at this time. My major problem with my printer is the two small screws that hold,the Y axis belt carriage to the under bed support. They have come loose twice, even after using locktight on the threads. Still looking for a more permanent fix. Jam nuts, lockwashers or suiperglue are some of the next fixes I will try.

Other nuisances,

1, Z-axis limit switch is not easy to calibrate, only a rough adjustment by undoing it's screw mount, needs a calibration screw.
2, No cable guide on the Y-axis going under the bed, I am using a rubber band to keep tension on cable to keep it from kinking and flopping when ;hitting the back of the frame.and Y axis motor.

Bob

Quote
bob414
Glad I could help.

My Z Axis stepper motors do not make a abnormal amount of noise, that normally indicates a bearing problem.. I was getting a rattle from the Z axis screws, that settled down when I modified the bottom of the Z axis rods to stop them from wobbling, That mod is included on this website under HICTOP mod and upgrades.

Bob, can you paste the link of your website. I certainly need that, although this is not critical for operation, am sure the acrylic mounts are going to wear out soon if this keeps happening.

Quote

My most recent problem, was SD card recognized, but not readable. After checking the wiring 3 times. I found that I did not have the connectors fully seated on the Display board. I was very surprised on how much pressure I had to use to fully seat them. This could also be reasons that some users are having problems with the Display. PS I repair and assemble computers all the time.

thanks for the heads up, I am printing directly from my printer as of now. BTW, I printed my first part and it looks cool, still need to tweak the temp settings.

Quote

I have only printed PLA. more that 1.5Kg at this time. My major problem with my printer is the two small screws that hold,the Y axis belt carriage to the under bed support. They have come loose twice, even after using locktight on the threads. Still looking for a more permanent fix. Jam nuts, lockwashers or suiperglue are some of the next fixes I will try.

I completely agree, the design in itself is such a pain where one of the mount bolts interferes with M2s of limit switches, I couldnt completely tighten because of that.
Also, I want to print ninjaflex next, and eventually Nylon

Quote

1, Z-axis limit switch is not easy to calibrate, only a rough adjustment by undoing it's screw mount, needs a calibration screw.
2, No cable guide on the Y-axis going under the bed, I am using a rubber band to keep tension on cable to keep it from kinking and flopping when ;hitting the back of the frame.and Y axis motor.

The wiring and cable guide is a major issue on this printer, I cant find one effective way to put all the wires in place. I also feel the mega needs an enclosure with a fan.
The y-axis limit switch snapped in process during my first print, had to replace it, the extruder heater cables got unplugged from Mega.

I do not have a website, the source is
[forums.reprap.org]

That is where I will put useful designs.

If your Z axis is making a lot of noise, that could be either linear bearing (a popping noise) or not being parallel between the rods (a squealing noise), this also cut down on the rattle of the z-axis screws. After I stabilized the lower end of the Z-axis rods, my Z- axis screw rods stopped being a issue.

Bob

Hey guys, just got my HicTop Prusa i3 auto bed level finished, but I am having an issue with the LCD screen. It is powering on, and I have tried to reverse the leads, but it is still showing only black boxes, almost like the contrast is too high, but I do not think that is the problem as I would see more than just two lines on the screen. Any help would be awesome.

This will sound a little simple, but I had SD problems on my build. I was checking out everything and determined that it took an more than average push on the Display connectors to seat them. I work on computer for 30 years and I was surprised at the force required.

Bob

I have tried this a few times, but never really pushed hard, as the they went all the way into the stops. So I don't think this is it, but I will look into this tonight.

Just in case you are still getting the problem with your prints stepping, check to make sure that the belts are tensioned tight enough, if the are then check and see if the belts and pulleys fit properly as this is what was the problem with mine and had replacements sent to fix the issue.

Hi i just finished building my Hictop Prusa i3 and my extruder motor output is not working like a few others ive read. I have checked the cable and motor on another axis and it works fine so its the output on the board. So do i need to flash? and if so where do i get the firmware from ive tried downloading whats supposed to be the firmware from Git Hub but when i point cura to the files downloaded it doesn't seem to see any firmware. Could sombody please point me in the right direction. And my board is mks base v1.4

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/09/2016 09:25AM by lejono.