Hi,

I'm wanting to get started with 3D printing. I've built a CNC router machine and pretty comfortable with mechanicals and electronics.

For the printer, I'd like a kit with instructions, ready to build, proven. It doesn't matter what kind but I'm partial to Delta's and Prusa's.

All this really means is that somebody here has built the kit succesfully without too much trouble.

With that in mind, which kit would you recommend buying and from which store (vendor support is important).

Thank you, Caesar.

Which country are you in? It makes a difference if you need the supplier to send you replacement parts.

I have built two kits: an Ormerod 1 from RepRapPro, and a Mini Kossel from T3P3. I compare them here [miscsolutions.wordpress.com]. The Ormerod took a while to get working well, although most of the issues I had with the Ormerod 1 have been fixed in the Ormerod 2. The Mini Kossel basically worked immediately after assembly, although I wasn't able to use the whole bed at first because I couldn't get it well enough calibrated until I upgraded the electronics and firmware (standard 4-point calibration was not enough).

The RepRapPro Fisher kit looks interesting as an entry-level delta, if you can live without a heated bed, although it is still in beta. You can read some users experiences of building it at [forums.reprap.org].

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

You've built a CNC already, so I'd say try something new and go delta. I'd follow dc42's recommendation and at least go duet on the electronics since he's on top of the firmware for that.

Thanks both! I should say I'm in the US

Maybe consider a CoreXY printer. There isn't many kits out there but its a superior printer compared the others.

Quote
Shank man
Maybe consider a CoreXY printer. There isn't many kits out there but its a superior printer compared the others.

Would you care to explain why you consider CoreXY to be superior to Cartesian and Delta?

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Come on ... I still haven't seen a good recommendation yet. If I need to build from scratch, is there a build log along with a BOM list?

Thank you, Caesar.

Yes, maybe I should expand on my statement.

In the long run,a well made and properly calibrated all metal construction CoreXY or H-bot is better than
a acrylic/wooden Prusa style or Delta bot. I'll even go so far as to say this includes all metal Prusa types
and Delta's

I base my viewpoint not so much on axis geometry but on the overall construction of these printers.
The rigid construction of the cube design is so much more desirable than the open frames of the other types.
Once calibrated, cube frames are better able to maintain the settings.
The open frame designs not so. Eventually the printer will need to be moved to another location.
Can you grab a Prusa type or Delta by the sides and lug it to another room and then run off a print
right away? With a cube design this isn't a problem. I can grab my printer load it in my car, drive it down
to Detroit, take it out, bring it into my house, plug it in, select my file from the SD card and
start the print. No hours of foreplay needed just because it was moved.

If one is going to spend the money and the time, why not build a printer that will last more than a couple of
years? Why not build a printer that will last 5-10 years or longer? Will the acrylic/wood Prusa's and Delta's
last that long? Probably not. Why not look at a CoreXY or H-bot as an alternative that will?

Whether the printer is bought pre-made off the shelf or made from a kit it should essentially become an

appliance. Once the setup and all the calibrations have been completed it should be able to
print on demand. When I say print on demand, I mean you should be able to send a file to the printer,hit the
start button and come back later to a completed print.Other than cleaning and prepping the bed and purging the
nozzle there should be no other steps involved to start the next print. No realigning of the bed, no tweaking
or adjusting necessary. You should not have to spend hours making adjustments and fixes in order to coax a
decent print from it every time you want to use it. When I search Craigslist for 3D printers what do I find?
Cheap acrylic/wood Prusa's. People wouldn't be selling them if they were good printers.
They are selling them because they become frustrated about not being able get a decent print from them even
after spending countless hours trying.

Don't misunderstand,I am not a Prusa or Delta hater. I have a couple of Prusa's and they are great machines
that produce very fine prints. But they will never be a print on demand printer. I don't have a Delta yet but
will one day. I'm debating on whether to buy a kit or build from scratch. My only real contention with the
Delta is the limited print area. They are great to print vases and other tall objects and they are extremely
fast.

These are my reasons for Csamsi to consider a CoreXY or H-bot kit thats all. Isn't this what the thread is
all about? I'm definitely not here to bash other peoples recommendations so there's no cause to take offense if
it was taken. Its all good.

Thanks for your expanded reply. Actually, I have put my 1m high delta sideways on the back seat of the car, driven it to a meeting, taken it out and printed with it immediately. But I take your point that a large cube printer can more easily be made stiff and resistant to knocks than a large delta, and it can be transported upright. My delta has metal corners and 2060 bottom extrusions, both of which help keep it rigid. It has a 300mm diameter print area btw. See my blog for.more.details.

My architecture of choice for small and.medium size printers is Delta, but for a really latge.printer I would go CoreXY or Hbot.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

I faced the same question. I chose a Wilson TS. Couldn't be happier with my decision. :-)

Here is a link to my forum post on my reasons for choosing a Wilson TS and my experience building and using it.

[forums.reprap.org]

There are other forum postings on the Wilson TS. Do a search on the forums. I think you will find that almost every post is very positive about the kit and design.

The Wilson TS is on Thiniverse:

[thingiverse.com]

The designer, Marty Rice, sells kits in the USA.

BassNFool

Hey, Thank you! My eBay search foo is not so good, is there a link to the kit?

Thanks, Caesar.

Ordbot Hadron


[www.buildlog.net]

[www.buildlog.net]

I built an acrylic Prusa i3 kit like many people do. After watching Tom's Honest Review of the Printrbot Play I have buyer's remorse. With the Play you can build a printer with a metal frame instead of acrylic. That would solve a lot of issues with durability and stability for me. It doesn't have a heated bed but that is a much easier upgrade than replacing an entire acrylic body with better materials.
Edit: buyers remorse because the price is basically the same as mine
Plus you get better customer support and a large user base compared to a random prusa kit. I seriously wish I went this route instead of a chinese acrylic kit
Youtube review of Printrbot Play

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/11/2015 04:05PM by RaShayRitto.

Quote
Shank man


These are my reasons for Csamsi to consider a CoreXY or H-bot kit thats all. Isn't this what the thread is
all about? I'm definitely not here to bash other peoples recommendations so there's no cause to take offense if
it was taken. Its all good.

Would you have links to kits? or build log?

Thank you, Caesar.