3d print really stuck to bed

Hello,
I have a reprap Prusa i3, with a heated alloy sheet as a bed.
Currently I am using pla and am having very variable results with keeping the print on the bed.
Test one is to use simple masking tape and well this work ok, sometimes sticks well and easy to lift off and other times job lift during the print. (I use a brim of 10mm and this seems to help)
Test two is same as above but just before I start the job I give the masking tape a light wipe over with Isopropyl alcohol, this really help the print stick to the bed but problem it is so stuck that removing the job destroys the tape.
Any recommendation please?

Do you wait until the bed is cooled down?
I use paintertape on aluminium bed for many prints with or without brim at 45°C before I have to replace it. Just let it cool down to room temp.
-Olaf

Quote
o_lampe
Do you wait until the bed is cooled down?
I use paintertape on aluminium bed for many prints with or without brim at 45°C before I have to replace it. Just let it cool down to room temp.
-Olaf

Thanks for that! I've been trying to remove it while hot. Doh!
Also next time I have to remove tape ill try painter tape. in uk we have some stuff called frog tape so wonder if that works.

Apart from that have I am getting some really good prints out, key seems to be making sure the bed is really level and true.

This is most complex job so far, used Alibre but going to move to Cubify;
[youtu.be]

Frog tape should work too, but is more expensive? ( 3M Scotch 3434 is my favorite )

3M Scotch 3434 found some on ebay ill get some order up and give it a go.
Do you just use it once or will it hold up to multiple prints?
Do you prep it in any way or clean it after a print?

I have had pretty good luck using canned air; get the build plate super cold and part pops off much easier.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/04/2015 02:23PM by AquaticsLive.

I tried the green frog tape today for PLA with an unheated bed and the print did not stick to it at all. The frog tape does work good for painting

I eliminated tape all together. Elmer's Purple Glue Stick (applied cold) on glass for PLA and ABS.

I´ve printed on glass too, but didn´t like the shiny bottom side of my printed parts. I prepped the glass with bottled lemon juice. Cleans the glass and leaves a thin sugar coating ( like hairspray ).
When I switched over to painter tape, I could print weeks without changing the tape and the necessary bed temp dropped from 70°C to 45°C.
-Olaf

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/05/2015 02:39AM by o_lampe.

What I usually do when I have a print stuck on the glass really good, is put it in the freezer for a few minutes, and then try and pop the parts off. (Only if you have a heat resistant-type glass, such as borosilicate)

Using compressed air is also a good alternative, however; using your freezer is cheaper.

Quote
o_lampe
Frog tape should work too, but is more expensive? ( 3M Scotch 3434 is my favorite )

WOW got some 3434 and lowered bed temp to 25 for pla and worked pretty well, but after experiment or two I found 35c works really well.
Not had a single print lift and pops off the bed at end of print real easy. WOW best advice I have had in Looooooooong Time! many thanks :-)
Ian

me and a my costumers using a glue stick (solvent free!!!!!)

never having problems anymore with warping prints with pla and abs also not with brass and nylon

the brand i use is from Stanger (German brand) (i tried 100 of different brands and only thin is working)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2015 05:17PM by tom1687.