Extruder wires

What kind of tips/tricks do you guys have for connecting the nichrome wire to the leads going to the extruder board. I have been using crimps and ribbon cable wires. It works but after a little while the connections fail. I think there is residue building up inside the crimp connection and gradually worsening the connection. I then have to take the extruder apart and replace the wire and crimp. What kind of wire does everyone else use? Thanks.

I once used wire wrap, then I had to replace the nichrome, so I went with header pin crimps.

I am using ring terminals. I can't say much about reliability because I old have about 2 hours of printing on my Isaac. With the longest print coming in at around 20 minutes.

[www.radioshack.com]

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-Steve

I bared / stripped the end of leads, going to extruder board, by 10cm-15cm.
Wrap that around nichrome wire.
Heatshrink the wrapped portion.
Crimp wrapped portion with head-less bootlace ferrule (brass).

Regards
Marius Botha
Pretoria, South Africa
[mariushermanbotha.wordpress.com]

I think you mean mm and NOT cm!

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Bob Morrison
Wörth am Rhein, Germany
"Luke, use the source!"
BLOG - PHOTOS - Thingiverse

hmm I was using crimps I salvaged from a 8 pin header from a computer cable (additional usb extender or something). Did you guys do anything special to the wire? I think the type of wire I am using is burning up and charring, which reduces the connectivity.

@Bob
yes. mm NOT cm!

@steveo290
I did not change anything with respect to the Ni-wire.
I find it interesting that you mention build-up of black residue, since I have had the same experience.
I put this down to the small wire-gauge that I am using. Maybe someone else, in the know, can confirm or debunk this notion.
Though, in my case, the residue did not inhibit the performance of my heater. Not noticeably so, anyway.
Btw, in order to overcome my thin wire-gauge problem, I cut off 3x18 ohm strips, and braided them in parrallel. I then insulated the braid, except the extreme ends, in Kapton tape.

Marius Botha
Pretoria, South Africa
[mariushermanbotha.wordpress.com]

Quote

I salvaged from a 8 pin header from a computer cable

These are typically made from thin sheet. Get those made for automotive, with a full tube to be pressed.

Another idea might be to additionally solder the connection. The solver will melt while the device is in action, but should keep air/oxygen away regardless.

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