building my first printer, a few questions.

im looking to build myself a printer and i dont want to use a kit as it takes half the fun out of of DIYing.
first a little about me.
im a avid DIYer and i have ZERO engenering experience, when i need to print i trek on down to the library, however their time limit severely limits me on what i can print.
as a renter im limited in what tools i can use, my go to tool are a soldering iron, a dremel 3000, a drill with standard SAE bits.
im not confident with my iron at all and am still a beginner with it.

im set on a prusa i3 or a i3 variant
and i want to use 2020 extrusions

my first question
i want to build it with 2020 extrusions like the ones on robot digg [www.robotdigg.com]
the problem is i cant read the page of the original specs they used so i dont know if i should use a part list for a box or sheet frame.
1) what parts would i need in addition to the 2020 extrusions?
2) are there any benefits of using belts instead of using linear steppers, im talking about somthing like this [www.robotdigg.com]

my second set of questions
3) has anybody had any issues with cheap mechanical parts off ebay/ali express, mainly bearings, nema motors and the controller boards for said motors?
4) has anybody had any issues with the inland mega 2560 with the ramps on ebay/aliexpress
5) should i use motor dampeners or would that be unnecessary

my third set of questions
6) what consumables would i need for maintanence of the printer? mainly things like oils, greases extra bearings, rods, printed parts
7) after i build the printer should i keep a complete set of replacement printed parts on hand for repairs.

First 3d Printer?

What is wrong with a kit?

You can hack around using kitchen utensils
and cut thru the kitchen table?
You can spend weeks getting parts and reordering the right parts.
Spent hours in the hardware store looking for the wrong parts.
and spend $1000 for a $300 printer
With limited build tools a kit is perfect?
or
get all the parts (a tested design, drawings, instructions) in a kit
spend time getting frustrated 3D printing
instead of using your time wondering
how to connect part A to part Z so they don't flop around?

Take a look at Folgertech FT-5
[folgertech.com]
or
Ordbot hadron
[www.buildlog.net]
[www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]



BTW it's Engineering
---- looks like your "linear stepper" is a stepper motor with a leadscrew shaft and leadnut
some research and a design scratched out some butcher paper would also help?

but you could build first then build again with a design and some drawings.

1) Everything to connect them (corner connectors, plates, t-nuts, screws, etc.)
2) Yes there are. Belts move much faster unless you get a super-expensive lead screw with a large mm/turn ratio. Even then, you'll have a hard time making a rigid h-bot with lead screws.
3) Nope, ebay's been pretty good to me. Watch seller feedback, get a few extra of things like stepper drivers for Ramps for example.
4) No.
5) Motor dampeners reduce noise. May or may be the limiting factor in your printer's overall noise production. Up to you on how quiet you want the thing to be (I can't sleep with mine going, no dampeners).
6) Some good lubricant for rods and threaded rods/lead screws, plastic, tape of your choice (depends on what you print with, but both blue painters tape and the Chinese Kapton clone work).
7) You can if you want to double the cost. I never did, only ordered replacements if needed.

That said,
You don't have to use a kit, but using a proven design like the Prusa i3 rework (what I have) for your first build is a definite plus. Once you have the hang of it, you can think about doing your own design (also when you have the tools). I am personally building a printer out of aluminum extrusion right now, but I've hung out a lot with my Prusa before going there. Plus I do have the required tools: angle grinder, miter saw, etc. I would NOT recommend doing a 2020 build right off the bat with no experience.

You will have plenty of tests to get a kit working well but the learning is invaluable. Once you've mastered it you can upgrade. Took me a year to learn the basics.

Quote
cozmicray
First 3d Printer?

What is wrong with a kit?

You can hack around using kitchen utensils
and cut thru the kitchen table?
You can spend weeks getting parts and reordering the right parts.
Spent hours in the hardware store looking for the wrong parts.
and spend $1000 for a $300 printer
With limited build tools a kit is perfect?
or
get all the parts (a tested design, drawings, instructions) in a kit
spend time getting frustrated 3D printing
instead of using your time wondering
how to connect part A to part Z so they don't flop around?

Take a look at Folgertech FT-5
[folgertech.com]
or
Ordbot hadron
[www.buildlog.net]
[www.automationtechnologiesinc.com]



BTW it's Engineering
---- looks like your "linear stepper" is a stepper motor with a leadscrew shaft and leadnut
some research and a design scratched out some butcher paper would also help?

but you could build first then build again with a design and some drawings.

yes its going to be my first 3d printer
so i mis-spelled engenering, sue me

there is nothing wrong with a kit, i just dont like using kits. i enjoy trial and error.
thanks for the reply and the links

Quote
anvoice
1) Everything to connect them (corner connectors, plates, t-nuts, screws, etc.)
2) Yes there are. Belts move much faster unless you get a super-expensive lead screw with a large mm/turn ratio. Even then, you'll have a hard time making a rigid h-bot with lead screws.
3) Nope, ebay's been pretty good to me. Watch seller feedback, get a few extra of things like stepper drivers for Ramps for example.
4) No.
5) Motor dampeners reduce noise. May or may be the limiting factor in your printer's overall noise production. Up to you on how quiet you want the thing to be (I can't sleep with mine going, no dampeners).
6) Some good lubricant for rods and threaded rods/lead screws, plastic, tape of your choice (depends on what you print with, but both blue painters tape and the Chinese Kapton clone work).
7) You can if you want to double the cost. I never did, only ordered replacements if needed.

That said,
You don't have to use a kit, but using a proven design like the Prusa i3 rework (what I have) for your first build is a definite plus. Once you have the hang of it, you can think about doing your own design (also when you have the tools). I am personally building a printer out of aluminum extrusion right now, but I've hung out a lot with my Prusa before going there. Plus I do have the required tools: angle grinder, miter saw, etc. I would NOT recommend doing a 2020 build right off the bat with no experience.

thank you for your very informative response
the i3 rework is the model i was heavily considering.
about the lube your talking about, i have 3-in-1 oil, and white lithium grease, as well as ready access to any lube used in bicycle repair/overhauling (mainly chain oil, grease (its parktool POLYLUBE 1000 [part#s "PPL-2 or "PPL-1"] its similar to white lithium but green) and a few others i cant remember)

1 final question
in the i3 rework am i correct in assuming the threaded rods are just for the frame, and dont serve any other purpose.

You should be fine with that for lubrication.

The m8 threaded rods are for the frame and nothing else. The m5 threaded rods are used in lieu of lead screws for vertical movement, but if you feel like it you can get some proper lead screws for the z axis.

1 more question
i live in the USA, so am i able to configure the firmware to use a SAE threaded lead screw, instead of a metric sized one
if i am, then what threading is comparable to a m5

Quote
cozmicray
First 3d Printer?

What is wrong with a kit?

I've helped a few people finish their i3 kits, both FT and ones from China - what's wrong with them are cheap parts, flimsy frames, poor instructions, poor z-axis endstop design, poor quality hot ends, poor quality heat beds, cheap motors, poor designs to tram the bed.......

Quote
Overlord_Laharl
1 final question
in the i3 rework am i correct in assuming the threaded rods are just for the frame, and dont serve any other purpose.

As anvoice mentioned the M5 are for the z-axis. If you are looking for an i3 design that uses 2020 aluminum take a look at the Wilson, I've heard good things about it
[reprap.org]

---

My updated Instructable on our Prusa i3 Build
[www.instructables.com]

My humble apologies Overlord

Firmware --permanent software programmed into a read-only memory.
Hardware --- nuts and bolts (never saw a "firmware" section in Home Depot or Ace)

Next to the SAE section is the metric section of nuts and bolts
Most settings on 3D printers are mm (mm/step etc)
2020 20mm x 20mm
25.2 mm per inch

You can do everything in english SAE --- soon you will see most is done in Metric
motor shafts and bolt holes metric, Belts and pulleys metric
the filament is 1.75 / 3 mm ---- I guess you can get SAE filament made up?
but you can search for and order up SAE parts
You can use slotted / philips head bolts --- or nice socket head (allen) bolts that you can tighten down well.

for rotation to linear motion (Z-Axis) threaded rod -- bad acme leadscrew --- better

But your the expert --- this is your first printer --- and you know it all because your a DIYer
you can trial and error all you want -- waste time and money
--- crayon and brown paper cheap --- design
---- CAD or simple draw app on your computer better

M5 (5mm thread diameter .8 course .5 fine thread per mm)
SAE close #10 fine ?? 1/4 - 32
but for tension rods an expert like you probably just use 1/4 -20

Quote
Overlord_Laharl
1 more question
i live in the USA, so am i able to configure the firmware to use a SAE threaded lead screw, instead of a metric sized one
if i am, then what threading is comparable to a m5

Quote
cozmicray
My humble apologies Overlord

Firmware --permanent software programmed into a read-only memory.
Hardware --- nuts and bolts (never saw a "firmware" section in Home Depot or Ace)

Next to the SAE section is the metric section of nuts and bolts
Most settings on 3D printers are mm (mm/step etc)
2020 20mm x 20mm
25.2 mm per inch

You can do everything in english SAE --- soon you will see most is done in Metric
motor shafts and bolt holes metric, Belts and pulleys metric
the filament is 1.75 / 3 mm ---- I guess you can get SAE filament made up?
but you can search for and order up SAE parts
You can use slotted / philips head bolts --- or nice socket head (allen) bolts that you can tighten down well.

for rotation to linear motion (Z-Axis) threaded rod -- bad acme leadscrew --- better

But your the expert --- this is your first printer --- and you know it all because your a DIYer
you can trial and error all you want -- waste time and money
--- crayon and brown paper cheap --- design
---- CAD or simple draw app on your computer better

M5 (5mm thread diameter .8 course .5 fine thread per mm)
SAE close #10 fine ?? 1/4 - 32
but for tension rods an expert like you probably just use 1/4 -20

i know the definations, i do hack PSPs and PS3s, and i was just using firmware in that sence, as "system software" or "operating system"
and in PSPs and PS3s it is semi read only. as true read only would not allow for upgrades, updates.
i never said i was an expert, i know im a newbie and thats why im asking before i start my build.
if i sound like a know-it-all sorry, thats just the way i sound.
i also know threaded rods are not the proper item, i didnt come here first i did do some research. im just asking things i couldnt find
i was simply asking if i am able to reconfigure the firmware (read as printer operating software)

i wish the USA would switch to metric and join the rest of the world
because its a PitA to remember each different measurement i like the base 10 setup of metric
however the extent of metric in the USA is in: the scientific community, and the spedometor in vheicles (it has both miles and kilometers)

thanks "Most settings on 3D printers are mm (mm/step etc)" has mostly answered my question

i tend to explain things in a backwards fashion due to my dislexia and somtimes i think one thing and say/type somthing else.
also thanks for telling me the name for a proper part "acme leadscrew", i will save that for a later upgrade

<3) has anybody had any issues with cheap mechanical parts off ebay/ali express, mainly bearings, nema motors and the controller boards for said motors? >
Yes, I have occasionally received poor parts from e-bay. Different vendors sell the same parts at a range of prices, so the same part may range from $1 to $10 from different vendors. Just because you spend more money does not mean you are getting a better part. Some vendors will short-change you. Others will offer warrantees they have no intention of honoring.

That being said I buy most of my parts from eBay and most of the time I am happy. I have found some vendors that consistently provide quality parts and have good service and I keep going back to them.

< 4) has anybody had any issues with the inland mega 2560 with the ramps on ebay/aliexpress>

Inland is a store brand for MicroCenter. Inland products seem to work well for me. I have an Inland Mega 2560 board that I use for testing purposes and have not had any problems. I have not used it in a printer though. BTW Inland brand filament is made by eSun and is very inexpensive compared to name brands and comparable in quality.

< 5) should i use motor dampeners or would that be unnecessary>
If you are referring to cork pads that one puts between the motor and the frame, they are totally unnecessary if you have a sturdy frame. Very few people use them and most people get good results without them. I actually bought some, but never got a chance to put them on my printers.

< 6) what consumables would i need for maintenance of the printer? mainly things like oils, greases extra bearings, rods, printed parts>

Your rods and bearings will benefit from an occasional coat of bearing grease. I would also buy a spare Mega 2560 board/Ramps 1.4 board or the equivalent. With that I would also buy extra stepper driver boards. Quality extra stepper motors are a good thing to have around. I would buy extra heat blocks with extra thermistors and ceramic heaters. Definitely buy extra extruder nozzles. They occasionally clog and have to be replaced. Extra endstops will not hurt. A bad power supply will render your printer dead until you get a new one. Get spare heat bed springs and an assortment of 3mm socket cap screws. These things sometimes get lost. Does this sound like you should have a spare everything on hand? Pretty darn close. I had a cheap CTC Euroway where almost every part went bad. Having spare parts on hand kept me going. By the time I replaced all the broken parts, then replaced the wooden frame with a P3Steel frame, I had a completely new printer that printed so much better than the original. Having spare parts on hand also makes troubleshooting much easier. If you think one part is bad, replace it with a spare. If that works, great. If it does not, keep replacing other parts with spares until your printer works.

<7) after i build the printer should i keep a complete set of replacement printed parts on hand for repairs. >

Definitely yes!!!! The, printed, print head carriage cracked on my cheap CTC Euroway. I could not make another because the printer did not work. Do you have to buy another? No!!!! Once you build your printer, you can download the stl files for replacement parts and print them yourself. I would do this early on so if something breaks you have replacement parts on hand. Make your printed parts out of strong plastics. Do not use PLA. PLA will degrade quickly over time.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/05/2016 01:46PM by Lymphomaniac1.

Quote
Lymphomaniac1
< 5) should i use motor dampeners or would that be unnecessary>
If you are referring to cork pads that one puts between the motor and the frame, they are totally unnecessary if you have a sturdy frame. Very few people use them and most people get good results without them. I actually bought some, but never got a chance to put them on my printers.

When making printer silent which is the next task after it prints, those are useful parts. Before I put 2mm cork to every motor, I could print only when the printer was on the floor. After dampeners I was able to put it on my workbench. I have P3Steel which likes to as one monolithic piece of metal now that it has nyloc nuts and the noise which it makes when it vibrates is awful loud.

Now I have cheapest Ikea cabinet, 8mm foam on the bottom and plywood over it and printer on top. I'm planning to add some air filtration and halogen lights to have warmed cabinet and get the particles and smell out. And if it makes then too much noise, I'll by Silent step sticks.

And I don't think buying motor dampeners are cost effective. With five euros I bought 5mx0.5mx2mm roll from local hardware store. And I've found quite interesting uses for it elsewhere too.