ERR:MINTEMP triggered by X-motor

Hello everyone,

I am new in the RepRap, just completed building my Prusa i3 clone by Createbot Tech. In the beginning everything was fine, I even managed to print several models in rather acceptable quality.
My printer is running MARLIN 1.0.0 on HICTOP Circuits 3D MKS 1.3 board.

Unfortunately couple of days ago I when I started printing I noticed that X-axis motor is not working at all. I tried moving it using option "Move axis" in Marlin menu, but it still didn't move (however board is indicating that extruder position has changed).

Yesterday I ran several test and figured out following:

1. When I use "Prepare-> Move Axis -> [any distance] -> X axis" nothing happens when I increase the value (e.g. go from 8 to 10). When I try to lower value (e.g. go from 10 to 8) I immediately get ERR:MINTEMP.
2. Termistors itself are working OK. They are showing temperature correctly all the time. Just to make sure - i tried replacing termistor with the spare one,but problem still persists. I can increase and decrease temperature without any problem, indication stays correct.
3. X-Axis motor itself is working OK. I figured it out by swapping connection places with Y-Axis motor. When I swapped it X-Axis worked OK, Y axis didn't worked at all. When I restored original connection - Y motor worked, X motor didn't.
4. I tried re-flashing original firmware - no effect.
5. When I try to move X-Axis with Pronterface it immediately throws "ERR:MINTEMP" no matter which direction I try to move the axis.

Found at least one guy in the internet with the same problem, unfortunately without solution.

Can someone give me a hint what happened and may be a hint of how to repair it?

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Currently using Prusa i3 by CreateBot Tech

Are the connections to the temp sensor secure and not touching a metal surface?

Do you get the same effect if you giggle the wiring without moving the x axis?

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

Hi orictosh,

Yes, I am 100% sure it don't touch any metal surface.
I even tried unplugging it - still no effect. Just tried giggling the wiring without moving axis - error doesn't appear.

I am starting to worry that maybe something is blown inside the board itself, like weird short circuit. This don't explain, however, why error is triggered only when motor is moving left (lowering coordinate)
Another option I see is that stepper driver is broken - but I am not sure how to check if it is OK or not. There is a current on driver's trimpot, but I am not sure how to check the output.
Is there any advise on diagnosing built-in stepper drivers?

Also - what is your opinion, can it be caused by some kind of firmware malfunction?

And thank you very much for support

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/12/2016 03:03PM by Le_Nya.

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Currently using Prusa i3 by CreateBot Tech

Hi Le Nya,

It could be related to firmware, as RRP firmware had a bug (now fixed) which stopped the cooling fan when the axis moved, lets check the hardware first.

[An Update]
Just read back though your post, you stated that the drivers are built in, so I'm right in thinking can't be swapped out. If this is the case, maybe ping an email to the printer's support address and they might send you another board. Maybe post here the details of the board here so that the community can help you obtain a new board.

[Another update] Just had a thought mark up the plugs, swap the plugs round so X ends up on Y

With the stepper drivers, mark up the X one with sticky label, mark it with a question mark. Then swap it with the Y axis one and place that driver in the vacant X position.

Then move the Y axis in the same way you move X. If the fault appears, it's the stepper driver. In theory the X axis should move without issue as it has the Y stepper driver, which is known to be working.

Are any ground connections getting hot or missing or not tight, as the x axis stepper motor might be drawing excess current from the MCU, causing it power down and reset. It's a long shot but it could be the problem. Might be a good idea to check the schematic, as the drivers will have a 5v volt connection from the MCU and 12v connection to main voltage rail. Based upon the system being 12v, some printers have main power rated at 24v

It is weird that it only faults in the direction of going to zero (home). Is it free to move?

Lets us know how you get on

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/12/2016 04:51PM by orictosh.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

sounds allmost like the x endstop is triggered (apart from the error). does x move if you manually press the x endstop ?

Hi everyone,

Thank you very much for trying to help me out! It's been busy end of the week so I just got back to my printer.

I managed to try 2 more things, unfortunately none of them worked:

1. I changed the firmware version. The version manufacturer provided was Marlin 1.0.0-RC2. I updated it to latest stable release 1.0.2-1. Unfortunately nothing changed.
2. Tried to manually press the x-endstop, just as obewan (thank you for participating, btw) suggested - I had a real burst of hope in this, but unfortunately it also didn't worked.

Now I am going to get into the test suggested by orictosh and one more related to firmware adjustments.
Since I found out I am not the only one with such a problem and there is no actual solution in the web - I'll try to keep this post updated with my progress. Who knows, maybe one day somebody will find it useful. =)

[Update]
I had one particular idea to check - will ERR:MINTEMP appear, if in "Configuration.h" I will switch #define INVERT_X_DIR to false (by default it was true for my printer)? The result isn't the one I expected. When I did this inversion ERR:MINTEMP started to appear on every axis move in any direction. Honestly - I am out of ideas what could happen and what triggered this problem.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2016 07:33AM by Le_Nya.

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Currently using Prusa i3 by CreateBot Tech

Also here is my board and specifications.

The manufacturer stated in the specifications that board provided is RAMPS 1.4, but obviously it isn't. It took a bit of a time before I found out that this is a board called HICTOP MPX.3 board (MKS Base 1.x clone). There was a thread regarding this board in here

Numbering on attached photo goes like this:
1 - X-Axis motor connection and corresponding stepper driver
2 - Y-Axis motor connection and corresponding stepper driver
3 - Z-Axis motor connection and corresponding stepper driver
4 - Extruder connection and corresponding stepper driver
5 - X-Axis endstop (-)
6 - Y-Axis endstop (-)
7 - Z-Axis endstop (-) which actually is a proximity sensor for auto-leveling
8 - Extruder's temperature sensor
9 - Heating bed's temperature sensor

@orictosh I am very embarrassed to admit it, but I didn't really got the test you described. Did you meant trying to pull off plug marked 1 on a picture and connecting it to the place marked 2? This one I already tried, that's how I learned that motor itself is working OK. Can I ask you, please, to explain in a bit more details?

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2016 08:05AM by Le_Nya.

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Currently using Prusa i3 by CreateBot Tech

Quote
Le_Nya
@orictosh I am very embarrassed to admit it, but I didn't really got the test you described. Did you meant trying to pull off plug marked 1 on a picture and connecting it to the place marked 2? This one I already tried, that's how I learned that motor itself is working OK. Can I ask you, please, to explain in a bit more details?

Don't be, The test you did for the motor was the one I was referring to.
After I posted, I remembered that older prusa's or 3dprinters with ramps board had stepper driver in a DIP format so could be removed and replaced. Your needed to set them voltage wise so they gave good current to stepper motor. More modern implementations of ramps boards have surface mounted drivers so can't be removed unless able to solder surface mount components, which are controlled by the software (aka firmware). I tried to show that in the updated parts of my post.

Still doesn't solve the issue. I would be looking to swap out the board with a replacement from the manufacturer.
I'm not experienced in testing PCB boards at component level, (testing and looking at the schematic might find the problem) maybe unplug everything from the board and clean with PCB cleaner and inspect it for bridged tracks or shorts as Min_Temp is normally trigged by disconnection of the thermistor, so I'm thinking that when the X motors moves it earth's and pulls down the thermistor, which then causes the firmware to raise a flag and shut-down the printer as a safety measure as it related to temperature.

Is there anything that is touching the frame when the X motor moves?
With all power removed, use a continuity meter and see if any metal areas or connections upon you printer are connected as they should be or shouldn't.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

Make that Three guys!

Hi, I'm new. I know it's been a month since the latest reply to this thread but I was wondering if there had been any progress?

I've come across a similar thing with my Prusa i3 3d printer I just bought. Not only does the x-axis trigger MinTemp but the y-axis also does too. The z and extruder do not. But all axis do not move via lcd controls or Pronterface.
I'm using Ramps 1.4 - A4988 stepper drivers. Marlin 1.0.2 - Mega2560.

3D printers are not easy. Wow, I wasn't expecting so much that could go wrong. I like to think I've got a degree in 3d printers now because of all the resources and searching and tinkering I've done, perhaps when I finally get to test print an octopus I can claim that title but in the meantime I will explain some of the issues I've had in the run up to the one close to the title of this thread.

Extruder didn't feed filament. Checked Nema17 motor on other a4988 stepper motor and it worked, replaced stepper motor.

Then the printer only printed the first layer and didn't anything else. I looked around the web, and I thought it might be a temp issue so I used PIDTuning to set new values. It was late, I went to bed after a good few hours reading and debugging.

The next day MinTemp triggered on start up. I was in a cold room and my hand body temp was enough to get the printer to stay on in pronterface, being cold I set the heatbed and extruders to around 40C and 60C respectfully, this prevented MinTemp being triggered when I had to switch the printer on and off. I discovered that my motors didn't move in Pronterface, also not in the LCD prepare menu either, I would get a No Move on the display. I reinstalled the marlin firmware but this did not fix the issue.
Pronterface moving axis didn't do anything, I couldn't see or hear the motors moving, I couldn't feel them moving wither. Only in on the LCD display did it prompt me with the message No Move or MinTemp triggered.

I've read multiple threads and found this one which is so close to what I'm experiencing, just needed to reply in case there was a solution or in case others with the same issue could find out. So to reiterate the above symptoms with my own and not to confuse anyone, I will add letters.

A. No Move from LCD display or MinTemp Triggered. Also Pronterface I only get the MinTemp error and it shuts down.
B. Thermistors checked and are reporting the correct temp. Since I was getting MinTemp and not MinTemp Bed I plugged hotend thermistor from T0 (pin 13) to T3(Pin 15) It might be T2 but the Bed was pin 14 so I figure that's ok. Still errors.
C. Unsure about motors. Unplugged the extruder, set multimeter to read 200 in Ohm, the display went from 1 down to 0.1. I'll have to look up how to do that to figure if that's good but for the time being it's the value I got in case it's important.
D. I also tried re-flashing original firmware - no effect.
E. When I try to move X-Axis with Pronterface the temperature for the heaterbed and the Hotend (Heater0/Bed) start to increase. ??? Resetting Printer stops this. M999 Stops this. M84 (stop idle hold) doesn't stop this. When I say temp that is the one displayed in Pronterface. I failed to check the lcd temp display or take any readings with G-codes because I got scared and switched the machine off.

This is what brought me here. Pronterface X-axis move makes heater and bed temp rise! So Google helped in the end, but it was a lot of searching.

Since this happening I have not powered on the printer via the mains. If the board is compromised then it would be unsafe I believe at this stage to try. I've also detached the mega2560 board and ran that under usb, it seems to be fine.

Any help or advice would be handy. I've contacted the supplier with the same details in the hopes they might be able to help, also to prevent harm to others in case it's a dodgy batch that's been manufactured.

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o/~ Somewhere, over the rainbow. A octopus awaits to be printed... o/~

Le_Nya:

The MKS-Base board is basically a Mega 2560 board, Ramps 1.4 board and four A4988 stepper drivers put on one board. Makerbase, the maker of the original MKS boards suggest just using firmware for the Mega 2560 board and Ramps 1.4 board. The latest version of Marlin is version 1.1.0-RC7 and could be found on [github.com] . Make sure you edit the configuration.h file. To see how this is done see [www.youtube.com]. Your board in RC7 should be #define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB . This is now the default in RC7, but check it anyway. If you have the wrong board defined here anything can happen since the pinout is different with different boards. On one board pin xx may control the temperature while on another it may control a motor. Go through the entire youtube video and do ALL the changes necessary as explained by Tom. If you do this your board should work.

The MINTEMP error does not have anything to do with the X-axis per se but if you do get this error, your whole printer should shut down. The reason for this is a that the MINTEMP is safety feature. If your temperature probe disconnects from the motherboard (MKS board) the temperature will register 0^oC. Since 0^oC is less than the MINTEMP setting in Marlin the printer shuts down and prevents overheating since without this safety feature programmed into Marlin your extruder heater or bed heater would try to get the recorded temperature to reach the set temperature. Since the probe is disconnected, the recorded temperature (always 0^oC) can not reach the set temperature, the extruder or bed temperature will continue to rise and the extruder or bed will burn out, possibly burn up your printer, or even burn down your house. Good thing for fail safes.

With this in mind:
1) What are the recorded temperatures of your extruder and heat bed? If either is 0^oC, your temperature probe(s) are not correctly attached to the board or are defective. You say that the temperature probes are working OK.

2) What is the MINTEMP setting in your Configuration.H file in Marlin. It should be greater than 0^oC and less than or equal to 20^oC. If this not so, then change it.

3) Did you tune your stepper drivers? If a stepper driver is set to too low of a voltage, then the corresponding motor will either skip steps or not work at all. If set too high, you can burn out your motor. Typically steppers drivers are not factory set.
Typically for the A4988 set voltage = 1/2 the rated maximum amperage for the motor. Contact the manufacturer for the rated maximum amperage for your motors if you can not find it in the instructions. Watch the following demo: [www.youtube.com] . Your potentiometers are located at the arrows on the attached photo.


If these suggestion does not work, your stepper drivers on your board are bad and you need to replace your board.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2016 11:19AM by Lymphomaniac1.

Denuk:

You say that you are using a Mega2560 board with a RAMPS 1.4 Board and your version of Marlin is
version 1.0.2 Make sure you edit the configuration.h file in Marlin. To see how this is done see [www.youtube.com]. Your board in version 1.0.2 should be #define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB . (Yes RAMPS_13 is right since it covers both RAMPS 1.3 and RAMPS 1.4.) The default in version 1.0.2 is for the Ultimaker board. If you have the wrong board defined here anything can happen since the pinout is different with different boards. On one board pin xx may control the temperature while on another it may control a motor. Go through the entire youtube video and do ALL the changes necessary as explained by Tom. If you do this your board should work.

Also since you are a self-described newbie, did you adjust your stepper drivers? If a stepper driver is set to too low of a voltage, then the corresponding motor will either skip steps or not work at all. If set too high, you can burn out your motor. Typically stepper drivers are usually not set to any particular value since such a value is dependent on your motor. Typically for the A4988 and DRV8825 stepper drivers set voltage = 1/2 the rated maximum amperage for the motor. Contact the manufacturer for the rated maximum amperage for your motors if you can not find it in the instructions. Watch the following demo: [www.youtube.com] .

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2016 11:53AM by Lymphomaniac1.

Quote
Lymphomaniac1
Denuk:

You say that you are using a Mega2560 board with a RAMPS 1.4 Board and your version of Marlin is
version 1.0.2 Make sure you edit the configuration.h file in Marlin. To see how this is done see [www.youtube.com]. Your board in version 1.0.2 should be #define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB . (Yes RAMPS_13 is right since it covers both RAMPS 1.3 and RAMPS 1.4.) The default in version 1.0.2 is for the Ultimaker board. If you have the wrong board defined here anything can happen since the pinout is different with different boards. On one board pin xx may control the temperature while on another it may control a motor. Go through the entire youtube video and do ALL the changes necessary as explained by Tom. If you do this your board should work.

Just quick heads up on this post your you tube link is not click-able. Here is link to Tom's You Tube Channel (I'm thinking that's the right tom)
[www.youtube.com]

Problem with not linking might be down to the full stop after the ] bracket

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
Printer: Ormerod 2 (528.4) Duel extruder set-up with Aluminium X-Rib, RRPro Firmware v1.11-ch (2016-04-08)

orictosh:

Thanks for the heads up!!! Right Tom wrong video. I corrected the original post to reflect the right video. By the way, Tom Sanladerer has a series of videos on anything and everything to do with 3d printing. They are great.

Stuart

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2016 12:19PM by Lymphomaniac1.

Thanks for getting back to me Lymphomaniac1, To address your reply:
In my config.h..
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB // That's the set up I'm using. Extruder, Fan, Bed, but I am not powering/using the Fan with D9. Instead I have a both my extruder and hotend fan on a breakout board connected to the 3x4 pins above the reset button. Also connected to this tiny board is a 12v connection from the ramps board, two pins below x-axis stepper motor.


You say that you are using a Mega2560 board with a RAMPS 1.4 Board and your version of Marlin is
version 1.0.2 Make sure you edit the configuration.h file in Marlin. To see how this is done see [www.youtube.com]. Your board in version 1.0.2 should be #define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFB . (Yes RAMPS_13 is right since it covers both RAMPS 1.3 and RAMPS 1.4.) The default in version 1.0.2 is for the Ultimaker board. If you have the wrong board defined here anything can happen since the pinout is different with different boards. On one board pin xx may control the temperature while on another it may control a motor. Go through the entire youtube video and do ALL the changes necessary as explained by Tom. If you do this your board should work.

Danuk:



Two thing here:

1) Your printer, being a Pusa I3 is not enclosed. You say that the room temperature is cold. A cold room can wreak havoc on a Prusa I3 unless it is in a heated enclosure. A heated enclosure may help here.

2) Your extruder temperature is set too low. PLA has a melting temperature between 180°C to 220°C. ABS has a working temperature of around 230°C. Your extruder stepper motor will not work until your extruder reaches an appropriate temperature. Marlin prevents this so that your printer does not try to shove solid plastic through your nozzle causing damage to your extruder assembly. Set your extruder for appropriate working temperatures for your filament.

< Instead I have a both my extruder and hotend fan on a breakout board connected to the 3x4 pins above the reset button.>

OK this has got me confused. I have never seen a 3X4 pinset ABOVE the reset button on any RAMPS 1.4. On most RAMPS 1.4 boards next to the reset button is a 3X4 pinset marked "SERVOS". Maybe you can send a picture of your RAMPS board. The servo pins are meant to drive servo motors that bring a touch sensor up and down during autoleveling. Since autoleveling is usually achieved by inductive sensors rather than mechanical sensors today, these pins are vestiges of past days. They can be redefined to perform other functions. For instance with a RRD Fan Extender you can set up your printer with a second fan, but this is usually used with printers with dual extruders. My understanding is that you have a single extruder. You may want to redefine your board to one of the following:

#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEB 34 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Bed) Most sources recommend this with RRD fan extenders.
#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EFF 35 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder, Fan, Fan)
#define BOARD_RAMPS_13_EEF 36 // RAMPS 1.3 / 1.4 (Power outputs: Extruder0, Extruder1, Fan)


See if one of these work better for you. The problem I see is that if these RRD Fan extender boards are usually used to increase the number of fans to cool two extruders, then they should always be on. You want to control the cooling fan that cools your models depending on your working conditions and filament type. You would want to be able to turn your fan on/off and control the speed. Since I usually use PETG filament I never use a fan to cool my models. Maybe someone can chime in on how to do this with a RRD fan extender?


What is the brand of RRD extender you use? Different ones word differently.

Good luck,

Stuart

Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2016 04:07PM by Lymphomaniac1.

Hi Lymphomaniac1

Thank you very much for your advise!

I double checked Configuration.h - yes, I have #define BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB, and temperature is 5C (screenshot in attachment)
I will try to tune drivers (btw thank you for the video - it actually is awesome!) as soon as I find any proper datasheet on my motors (generic 17HD30003-22B ).

At the same time I am trying to contact printer manufacturer's technical support - unfortunately today it wasn't effective, since CreatebotTech's technical support don't even show up for scheduled Skype meeting =)
I have a bad feeling that problem is in the board, so want to be ready for replacement.

@Danuk

Stay strong, brother-in-print! Hope together we will manage to these issues.
But I noticed one very important aspect in your message - problem with MinTemp appeared right after you tinkered with SW?
You see, the thing is that some time ago I managed to find extremely short post about exactly the same problem as I have. The original poster later wrote that he managed to eliminate problem just by updating MARLIN firmware. Now I am thinking that maaaaaybe problem actually was triggered by SW fault.

Hi everyone!

Yesterday I found out one rather interesting (and potentially sad) thing.
I've been measuring Vref on stepper drivers (just in case) when I suddenly understood that my multimeter is actually providing false data. So I got another one and carried out measurements once again.

The results are following:
X-motor: 0.1 V
Y-motor: 0.84 V
Z-motor: 0.6 V
E-motor: 0.94 V
From the video, drivers and motors datasheet I found out that for X motor I need ~0.54V

For a short time I had an AHA! moment and hope that I finally managed to found out the problem. Would that it were so simple.
I adjusted Vref for Y and Z motors and started with X (the problem one), but despite my best attempts I failed to do so.

It doesn't matter which direction I rotate trimpot, voltage goes approximately like this 0.085 -> 0.100 ->0.105 -> 0.085. Several times I managed to get intermediate value, but it always falls into the interval of 0.085Edited 6 time(s). Last edit at 11/24/2016 01:19PM by Le_Nya.

Hi,

Is the multimeter auto-ranging? Also are you making this adjustment with only the USB connection (5v DC) connected?
Is sort of strange that meter is showing those voltages.

Maybe replace the X stepper driver.

Chris

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/24/2016 09:24AM by orictosh.

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Supporting 3D Printers with Parts and Build services.
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Hi everyone.

Somehow forum doesn't display half of my previous post, so here is rest of it:


It doesn't matter which direction I rotate trimpot, voltage goes approximately like this 0.085 -> 0.100 ->0.105 -> 0.085. Several times I managed to get intermediate value, but it always falls into the interval of 0.085<x<0.105.
I have a bad feeling that either board itself or driver is damaged.

UPD.

Well CreateBot Tech's support officially confirmed that this most probably is a short circuit or some kind of internal fault inside the stepper driver. Obviously they claim that this isn't covered by a guarantee (such a surprise xD )
Since the driver is integrated into board and cannot be replaced separately, I will order a new board. Thinking about classic Arduino with RAMPS 1.4 and removable a4988 stepper drivers.
As soon as I will get a new board I will update this thread if everything is working, or problem still persists.

Hi again Lymphomaniac1, sorry for the short delay between posts.

Just a quick note about your questions, when I said breakout board, you have corrected me with naming that component a RRD. Sorry I'm still learning all the names and I do apologise as I do not know the make. I can only see 3 sets of writing naming which pins, 12v, fan1 and fan2.

As for redefining my board. It's currently Ramps_EFB which is how the manual has it. D10 Extruder. D9 Ramps board fans (For stepper motors) and D8 Heater bed. The Servo control where the RRD board is connected controls my extruder fan and my hot end fan. Changing set up. Wouldn't EFF leave me unable to have a heated bed? While EEF I could put the heater bed on the second E, I'm not sure if the firmware is calibrated for thinking it's an Extruder when it's a bed. I might be mistaken and it just is one or off with sending power. But also I would like to keep things simply for I am new and I might in the future change my firmware settings and without thinking it's EEF because I'd think B for bed. But thank you for your surgestion. a second extruder has always been planned so this I will look into in the future. :>

Just a quick update, I had spoken to my manufacturer and we thought it best to unplug everything and debug the components one at a time, like in the manual, setting things up one by one to see about any errors.
The good news was it possibly was a loose temp connection as I got halfway through reattaching my components and I stopped getting the MinTemp error. I highly rated the advise given to me in doing that because it helped debug the problem to one component at a time, building up to see if something was wrong with it all.

However, in the process I fried my mega 2560. My own fault so I have to stop attempting to check problems until I get a replacement sorted.
Like I said I got through halfway before something bad happened and I had to stop, but this is what I found, in case it helps.

D10 Extruder and T0 hotend thermistor plugged in worked ok in pronterface. Possibly a loose T0 connection caused the original MinTemp error. Without it all plugged in I can't say I fixed the problem though.

My X-axis endstop had reversed connection since my initial set up, VCC was going to signal and vice versa. So I checked all endstops until they showed the correct Triggered notification with M119. Basically I manually tested the x-axis endstop and it caused the printer to reset upon release. When homing X-axis the first time, this error didn't show up so the wire was detached and mis-plugged back in sometime.

Plugged in my stepper motor to the x-axis and motor. I couldn't get no movement. MECHANICAL cause was the reason. I looked and saw my x-axis belt had become misaligned from when I first set up the printer when it worked. I will keep an eye on this in the future. But I realigned the GT2 Pulley so the belt moved without issue. In pronterface I could move it using buttons and it worked like in the manual too with endstop.

This is when I ran into a problem. I inserted the y-axis stepper driver and motor and tried again. No movement with pronterface buttons. I checked my belt and it was aligned. I decided to check my y-axis motor in place of the x-axis motor and it worked, I got movement. So I think my stepper motor had issues. I replaced it with another that I had and when I switched on, I heard a noise from the LCD screen. Like a long screeching beep and a spark sound. I quickly turned off but it was too late. Mains power off and y-axis stepper motor unplugged, I was unable to get my computer via usb to detect the device at all. Unplugged Mega from the ramps and no unknown in device manager, no windows sound of connected device. However the L, TX, RX and power leds were all lit constant. Reset didn't work on the mega2560 board

Also I noticed one of the chips on the mega2560 board had a hole in it. I'm not sure it was there before because the ramps came attached. But it most likely was caused from the spark sound. I checked the internet and I think it's called a voltage regulator. It's in the corner next to the round power jack. Also I noticed my mega chip, the big main one was getting too hot to touch if plugged in for too long, so I haven't plugged it in since.

So that's where I am at this moment. I would like to think you all for the support though. Not knowing where to look for help, even using the correct terms for components had been a nightmare before I found this thread. I hope I can come back to you lot if I have more problems but for the moment I will be on a break until I can get my electronics in the post and I can proceed again. Thankfully without having to build the entire frame with all those little bolts and nyloc nuts I kept calling nylon nuts! lol

Thanks!

Hey, Sorry to hear! I'm pretty much in the same boat!

If you do get things working, throw us a line and update us! It will be nice to know. I'll do the same!

Quote
Le_Nya
Hi everyone.

Well CreateBot Tech's support officially confirmed that this most probably is a short circuit or some kind of internal fault inside the stepper driver. Obviously they claim that this isn't covered by a guarantee (such a surprise xD )
Since the driver is integrated into board and cannot be replaced separately, I will order a new board. Thinking about classic Arduino with RAMPS 1.4 and removable a4988 stepper drivers.
As soon as I will get a new board I will update this thread if everything is working, or problem still persists.

The driver i/c is deffinatly replacable if you have the right soldering equipment, seems a shame to discard the board for just a faulty driver

Well, for me it's also a shame

I am considering idea of trying to repair it, if I find any proper specification for components. =)

This is the reason I always recommend people maintain a repair kit containing a lot of spare parts. Things I keep in my kit include all electronics including spare power supply, spare boards, spare lcd, spare thermisisters, spare ceramic heaters, spare bed heater and spools of wires. Any of these parts can burn out or break, leaving you waiting for replacement parts. I also have a divider box containg 3mm socket head screws of various lengths and nuts. I maintain a stock of mechanical parts including bearings and gt2 belts. I also keep a stock of small parts that can easily be lost. Sounds like I have a replacement kit containing an entire printer minus the frame? It is pretty close. Keeping such a kit saves you a lot of time in the future and can help with diagnosing future problems. If something goes wrong, just replace parts until the printer works. You do not have to put this kit together all at once. You can build it a little at a time.

Stuart

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/25/2016 02:22PM by Lymphomaniac1.

Le_Nya:

I think going to a Mega 2560/Ramps 1.4 setup is probably your best bet. It can be inexpensive (under $20US) and is a standard setup. The price of buying components to repair your MKS board might cost more than buying the a Mega2560/RAMPS 1.4 setup and you still might not fix the actual problem. Also, with the Mega 2560/RAMPS 1.4 setup, in time, you can also upgrade to DRV8825 stepper drivers. Just make sure you buy your boards from a reputable vendor. There are a lot of vendors selling counterfeit boards on eBay. I once bought a board, sold to me as and marked as an Arduino Mega 2560 board, and got a POS running on an ATmega1280 chip rather than an ATmega 2560 chip. I also got several displays sold to me as "Makerbase MKS-TFT28" that just did not work. The vendors did not want to refund me my money and I had to have eBay step in to refund my money which was a hassle and wasted my time. BTW if you bought your printer from eBay less than 60 days ago and your vendor will not replace your board, ask eBay to step in. Most of the time you will get a refund and not have to send your printer back.

Stuart

I have a HicTop printer that i carry with me to motel rooms and use it at night after work. tonight my cable came off the right side z axis motor. I found it because my z axis started to go up crooked. I found and replaced the cable, but now i have an error that I can not seem to get out of. It is displaying "ERR: MINTEMP". I have reset it multiple times. I have unpluged and repluged it multiple times. My bed temp. shows 23 deg. C.. My hot end temp. shows 19 deg. c.. Could someone please tell me how to get past this issue. My thermistors are operating as normal. Any and all help in the address of this issue would be most appreciated.

Hi guys,
Sorry to wake such an old and dead thread, especially with my first post, but I ran into this exact same issue with my HICTOP Prusa i3 and was able to work around it. By following the suggestion that it might be a shorted pin I modified pins_RAMPS.h changing the step and direction pins for each motor to -1 to disable them until i discovered that the faulty pin in my case was the X motor direction pin. I then switched the X motor to use the pins for my second unpopulated extruder driver and was able to get the board and printer back up and running. if I had a hot air gun, i might try to replace the X driver but as i don't need the extra motor port, ill probably just leave it as is. For me I was seeing all thermistors reading -12 to -7 on boot or if i stepped any motor after clearing the fault, moving the X motor to the left any amount cleared the fault and the thermistors went back to normal. For me the motors ran normally, the issue exhibited in the thermistor readings only. The HICTOP board is very similar to the MKS_BASE style board pictured by the OP.