filament rol inside or outside the heat chamber

Hi

At this moment I am making a simple heat chamber but I was asking my self if I should but the filament holder instide or outside the heat chamber.
When I but it inside it will automatic gets a little bit backed when I print.
It will take al little bit longer to head the chamber.
Are there any other negative/positive things by putting the filament in side the heat chamber.

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

i'd say out, dry it too much might get brittle & snap often.

I print with ABS and I put mine inside my heated chamber and have done so for 4 years. I think it helps keep the filament warm and moisture free (yes ABS can be affected by moisture just not as easily as other filaments). I have probably run 60 rolls inside the chamber but again it's almost always ABS. I do use PLA but rarely.

The way it is going now I aspect to many be printing ABS also.

Temperature inside is not high enough yet 33c beside the bed, 45 degrees a few centimeters above the bed.
Will add 2 of these with thermostat control, no fan just natural airflow.


I made the enclosure so, that I can have the filament inside and on top



Simple filament holders for on top, like this

on top.

And I will design 2 front loading filament holders for in side.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2017 03:46AM by amigob.

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Without a fan the heat is going to accumulate at the top of the enclosure. The air should circulate- you want the entire print to be at a uniform temperature.

How do you keep filament from falling off the spool with a horizontal spool holder? Tangle much?

I use these:

[www.youmagine.com]

[www.youmagine.com]

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

>Without a fan the heat is going to accumulate at the top of the enclosure.

Natural Convection of the heat, most likely will work, if I place the radiators low, at 25% of the total height.
Advantage is that I will not have rapid temperature changes, yes it will take some time to heat up, but the heatbed with 400W is already not fast.
I have to remove the M104's Gcode to avoid oozing extruders.
How by the way do you control the enclosure heaters ?

Still doubting where to put the sensor. In the center top of the frame, bu t then it will be above the heated bed ?

> How do you keep filament from falling off the spool with a horizontal spool holder? Tangle much?

That is what I was afraid of, but I only have to be careful when installing a new roll.
As long as there is a little bit tension there is no problem. So I tensioned one of the bearings in a way that it will not turn.
Printed already multiple times using my Wade extrude with the small NEMA14 pancake (5Ncm).
And it produced almost perfect casings for my electronic projects. still need to tension the belts a little bit, and improve the belt to bed mounting. See some wobble
in the walls of the casing at the corners.

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

You can use an unused thermistor and MOSFET on your existing controller board to read the enclosure temperature and operate the enclosure heater. Enclosures response is probably pretty slow, so bang-bang may work as well as PID.

I'm adding a 500W enclosure heater to UMMD with the controller board running the temperature via an SSR. UMMD will have a blower that will suck air from the top of the enclosure via a duct, and it blows the air over the heater. The fan and heater will be located at the bottom of the enclosure. I have the thermistor at about the middle of the enclosure. Initial tests, (not finished yet) indicate that the enclosure heater plus bed heater will get the enclosure temperature up to 50C (about 30C above ambient) in about 15 minutes.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Connecting it to the RADDS with an SSR and a thermistor,should not be the problem, but I can't find any control config for an enclosure heater in Repertier.

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

I have build a Dual 3D Printer Enclosure mostly to vent the the filament odors outdoors, It actually kind of works like a medium temp heat chamber.
I use a bathroom fan connected to a light dimmer to adjust the fan speed. I only need enough air flow to cause a negative air pressure to keep fumes moving outside.
It is not much to look at but it works really well. The medium temperatures also keep filament from breaking.



As far as having the filament inside or outside. At this time prefer the filament inside.

I will keep you informed if their is some time related non-expected bad experiences with filament being inside the medium temperature heated environmental chamber.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2017 06:29PM by Roberts_Clif.

That heater is designed to have air flowing over/through it. If you don't force air through it, it will very probably overheat, or get so hot that it's dangerous to anything near it. My little 500W heater will exceed 300C (where I stopped measuring) without a fan blowing on it. Think about what 300C air will do to the top cover of your enclosure.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

The heater I mentioned has its own thermostat, to not overhead, I only cant find when it is switching off.
But if the thermostat has a to high value ( I expect it is lower then 150c ) I will just replace it with a 150c, or lower ( need some experimenting).

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

Found on ebay, that the heater it self will never get above 150c , because of the integrated thermostat.
And I Russan guy that measured it .

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

I looked at similar parts on ebay. There's a spec called "dry power" which I believe (but who knows?) is the power rating without a fan blowing air through the heater. This one [www.ebay.com] says "dry power" is 15% of the rated power. That would suggest that it heats up until the thermostat cuts power, then it cools until the thermostat closes and heats it up again. The 15% spec implies that the resulting duty cycle is 15% which means your 750W heater will provide heat of about 100W average in the enclosure. I don't know how many cycles those thermal cut-offs are good for, but they're not intended to be used as the only means of temperature control. They are there to protect against fan failure. Right above the "item specifications" it says "Notice: Please use the fan heat dissipation."

Experimentation will definitely be needed. If you use two of the 750W heaters, when both of them and the bed heater are on, you may have problems with circuit breakers blowing.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2017 07:22AM by the_digital_dentist.

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Ultra MegaMax Dominator 3D printer: [drmrehorst.blogspot.com]

Update, I bought 2 * 500W, when I opened the package , I found them small :-)
So I thought already that only using convection would be a problem.
So installed them in the enclosure, and Only got 5c higher the without, have to say that I didn't have the 4 steppen motors on.
It also took way to long to come to 45 degrees. So I really need to ad a fan to force the air through the heater.

Thinking of a design, now :-)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/12/2017 03:07PM by amigob.

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder

ABS printing goose OK, have some small warping at cornes( don't think this print is easy with ABS).
Heatbed 100c
Chamber 55c
extruder 250c

printing ABS in heat chamber


The extruder fan is blowing to the front and you see that there is constantly a air flow over the print.
So a duct is already designed to get the airflow up from the extruder fan .

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P3steel DXL, with Due/RADDS/Raps128 dual Wade's extruder