Ramps and bed adhesion

I just got my first large(about 5 hours) print done and it looks great, but my bed adhesion is just too damned good, and I also have a big nest of wires I need to clean up. So two questions.

First, the connectors on the z axis steppers are too big to get them both to the ramps board. I have a temporary fix, making my mess of wires even worse. So Is there an adaptor or something I can use to make it easier to get attach the x-axis to the board? What is the recommended approach?

Second question is about bed adhesion. My extrusion has been calibrated and my prints look good, really good actually. My surface is a heated bed, with glass, then blue painters tape. Adhesion is great. In fact, so great I have a very hard time removing parts. My son has a monoprice printer heated bed, no glass and blue tape. He has a similar problem, so bad in fact he breaks parts trying to remove them. How do we make it easier to remove parts?

Do you let the bed cool down before removing prints? If not, then try that. Otherwise check your slicer settings to see if its overextruding the first layer deliberately to get better adhesion.

If all else fails, give your print bed a quick spray with some PTFE grease, that'll solve your (current) bed adhesion problems.

You could always try to print with a nozzle height offset, or change your nozzle/height adjustment to provide just enough bed adhesion for your print.

How much 'squash' do you notice at the print/bed interface on completed prints? is there normally a bit of a lip you can feel around the edges?

Thanks first layer looks great. I found a different blue tape that has a smoother texture and I'm trying that now.

From what I see the first layer is not quite as good as my last print, but the big question is will I be able to remove it without taking the tape off as well. I'll share my results.

Too much bed adhesion is a problem that many of us wish we had. It will also change greatly depending on what filament you're printing with, and what temperature you're printing at. A lower bed temp will probably reduce the amount that the plastic "soaks in" to the tape, which will make removing the print easier. Printing the first layer at a lower temperature will also do this.

The RAMPS module should allow 2 standard 4 pin connectors for the Z motors easily enough. If your motor connectors have keyed connectors, it could get tight.

Cleaning up wiring is always a chore. I purchased a set of 2.54mm (0.1") connectors so that I could cut wires to a manageable length and put new connectors on them. My motors had standard flat 4 pin connectors on them already, so fitment was never a problem. I put an 8 pin 4X2 connector on for the Z motors for the RAMPS board on my I3 when I was cleaning up the wiring.

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MBot3D Printer
MakerBot clone Kit from Amazon
Added heated bed.

Leadscrew self-built printer (in progress)
Duet Wifi, Precision Piezo parts

Well I think I got the bed adhesions thing figured out. The blue #2090 tape was too porus and textured, where the #2080 tape was much smoother and had a bit of a shine to it, looked almost a little waxy.

Anyway, the #2080 tape works great. Adhesion is still good and I can actually get the part removed without pulling the tape with it... two prints so far worked great, one was a 11.5 hour print, came off nicely.

I'll hold on to the #2090 in case I need more adhesion for different filaments.

Thanks for the tips guys,